Lord Kyle Of Earth's Profile
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- 25-August 09
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22 November 2009 - 07:27 PMAnyone ever try to math out their maximum guaranteed hit range? I was really, really bored this week, so I referenced Mann's barrel test for accuracy numbers, measured my own frontal profile, found the sweet spot, being the square made your the widest point on your body, and equal length up and down. Mine starts at my collarbone, spans the width of my chest, and goes down an equal amount, making an 11" square. Aim for the center of that general area, and you have the most room possible for deviation in the ball's path.
Smart Parts Freak barrel was found to hit 75% of shots in the 6"x 6" at 20m. My frontal profile is 11"x 11". My math came out saying that I could be roughly 35m away, before shots had a statistically relevant chance of missing.
Also, as a side note, the math also came out to say the ball would drop roughly 9" at 20m, a more reasonable range, though I neglected air resistance.
Did I mess up the math, or does it seem pretty reasonable?
The longer out the shot range, the greater the degree your figures will be 'off' due to air resistance. A paintball has terrible aerodynamics.
22 November 2009 - 05:05 PMKeep in mind that if you pick off one guy, the rest of the group will likely stop and search for you. If your cammo is good enough, you can stall that assault for the better part of an hour. Only fire when no one is looking (they gave up the search) and you can remain concealed for a long while. I used this to great success this summer. One man with a phantom stopped a 5 man assault team for about an hour.
You don't even have to eliminate any players. Bounces work just as well at stopping them as kills do. The THREAT is what does the work.
12 September 2009 - 09:44 AMIf you wanted the T68 for style and the magazine feed system, look into an ATS marker. (www.Getrealpaintball.com)
I currently have an AT-10 (discontinued) and LOVE it. They rock a 25 round mag that is chain fed so you can fire in any orientation with out issue. Their factory barrel is awesome and uses a soft detent/sizer (called a unisizer) that gives a good paint match on the fly, no twisting or swapping of parts. (back in the day, when they came out, ATS won many awards for having the most accurate and consistant markers around.)
They are not cheap, but they are worth it IMHO.
LT at Northern Command Paintball is a great guy to work with and he will bend over backward for you.
This is an AT-4 ready to rock and roll:
12 September 2009 - 09:36 AMATS AT-10. No hoppers, no batteries, semi/full selectable.
28 August 2009 - 04:25 PMOne thing to consider when selecting the base material is what sorts of stuff will you crawl through. Here in south Texas it is over 105 nearly all summer. While it is hot as balls in the ghillie, the layer of canvas (and under layer of wicking material like climacool or smatrwool) really helps to reduce the amount of thorn/catus sticks I recieve. It also eliminated (for me at least) 100% of flea/tick/mosquite issues. If you take the time to acclimate to the temperature, drink tons of fluid (I pull down 1 quart every 10 mins during the summer), and keep your electralyte levels in check, you will be fine.
Limit high levels of activity (move slowly when possible)
When you start to feel over heated, stop running.
Open the suit and vent your heat.
The instant cold packs for sport injuries can be used to rapidly drop core temperatures (like the opposite of a hand warmer).
If you grab up some desiccant packs (the 'do not eat' pouches) and load them inside your ghillie, it will also help keep internal humidity levels in check.
I've been playing summer games in full ghillie for 3 years now and only have had heat/dehydration issues twice. Both times were because I deviated from my own rules.