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Xakk's Profile User Rating: *----

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Group:
Members
Active Posts:
276 (0.13 per day)
Most Active In:
The Lounge (108 posts)
Joined:
20-December 08
Profile Views:
1,192,531
Last Active:
User is offline May 31 2010 08:34 PM
Currently:
Offline

My Information

Member Title:
got boost?
Age:
25 years old
Birthday:
September 28, 1989
Gender:
Male Male
Location:
Shreveport LA
Interests:
Girls, Cars, and Paintball

Contact Information

E-mail:
Click here to e-mail me
AIM:
AIM  zackgrill@aim.com
Website URL:
Website URL  http://www.myspace.com/zach_loves_to_party

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Posts I've Made

  1. In Topic: ACT Scores?

    21 May 2010 - 06:54 AM

    View Postjtpaintball70, on May 21 2010, 07:43 AM, said:

    Back when I took them (about 5 years ago) 31 or 32 was the highest you could get. I got a 28.



    Same here, I got a 28 when the highest you could get was a 32 lol With a 36, Id imagine your good for just about any college.
    Good job dude. And Im not believing that the all kids on here are that smart until I see the slips, Ive see far to many retarded posts in my time. :)
  2. In Topic: Trifecta of Hoppers

    19 May 2010 - 06:53 AM

    The thing about the rotor is, if and when it does jam, its easy to fix. Ive played through entire cases of paint without a jam in mine. Ive also never had to tear mine down to fix a jam. But like you said, its the paint quality. I use field only paint which is either Draxus or Marbalizers. In fact, Ive had mine for awhile, and I can only remember me having 2-3 jams and they were fixed by the trigger. I even got my girl one because it was simple enough for her to figure it out. But I do agree, the price tag.... that is ridiculous.
  3. In Topic: The Lounge Picture Thread

    16 May 2010 - 09:31 PM

    You know its beautiful

    Hell, I should stick it in my bathroom and use it as a mirror.
    Posted Image
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    Shinny as hell

    Kinda turned my 6pack into mush in the reflection though.
  4. In Topic: The Lounge Picture Thread

    14 May 2010 - 09:05 PM

    5K$ worth of paint on my MR2 Turbo, smooth as glass

    Posted Image
    Posted Image
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    Replacing my A/C lines some time within the next month along with lots of engine work to be disclosed later(like anyone on a paintball forum cares), shooting for 300hp before winter and 12s in the 1/4 mile


    Putting it in a couple shows to finance my motor build
  5. In Topic: Potential Vehicle questions and wanted Opinions.

    05 April 2010 - 08:24 PM

    20K includes the cost of the car in the case of the MR2. And were talking 400hp on 110Octane. 300 on 91.

    Not only that but a 300hp camaro wont run 11s. And how do you know what kind of power it is getting? got a dyno sheet to show us?

    A 350Z costs anywhere from 15K-30K... You cant build one for less than 20K to get into the 11s unless you find away to make a 14 second car lose 3 seconds with only 5K.
    Not only that, but they are high compression engines, which means(to keep it running safely) you will have to make it a low compression engine to use Forced induction or you will have to do an N/A build which costs a lot more money compared to the hp gains.

    You have to factor in the weight of the car as well. A 3600lb 350z will lose to a 2700lb MR2 if they both have 400hp. Not only that, but the MR2 is a mid-Engine car with way better traction, which means it will win off of the line every time.

    The thing about modding cars is, just about every power level cost the same amount, much unlike Need for Speed makes the average person believe.
    For example:

    Lets pretend you have a 200hp car. You want it to get to 400hp.

    That means you must replace the exhaust, cams, turbo, IC, fuel, and ECU, etc.
    If you want to bump it up to 500hp, you probably have to replace the exhaust, cams, turbo, IC, fuel, and ECU, etc.

    If you have a 300hp car and you want to make it a 500hp car.
    You must replace the exhaust, cams, turbo, IC, fuel, and ECU, etc.

    You have to use all of the parts together in a build or you run the risk of running lean, rich, or simply blowing your engine.
    The only time you dont need all parts working together is when your talking about low power levels, which were not.

    So in reality, as long as the engine itself is strong, its better to just upgrade all the way one time because it will cost the same amount as upgrading half of the way... Which means... the lower the price you payed for the car in the first place, and the fewer the number of cylinders, the cheaper the build will be.

    Every build will cost the same amount of money if the power difference is big enough. And the bigger the base Hp, usually means, the heavier the car and a even heavier price tag.

    Kinda feel like Im thread jacking now... so.... Ill stop ranting there. :P

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