Reputation: 0 Neutral
- Active Posts:
- 82 (0.04 per day)
- Most Active In:
- The Lounge (35 posts)
- 03-September 08
- Profile Views:
- Last Active:
- Dec 22 2010 06:10 AM
- Member Title:
- 29 years old
- November 8, 1984
- Miami, FL
Topics I've Started
23 November 2008 - 10:50 PMThis is a quick review of the Tadao Yakuza control circuit board for the Autococker Eblade.
Before I begin, I'd just like to say that this is easily the best Autococker board available. If you're debating whether to buy one, you need read no further, because the answer is yes.
On most other Eblade style board I've used, you need to open the right side grip to get to the programming menu. Not with the Yakuza. Hold the trigger down and turn the board on: you're in programming mode. Need the tournament lock? Program the board to whatever rules apply, then open the grip and tap the tourney lock button. That locks you out of programming until you tap the button again
There are so many set points on this board that it's astonishing. The amount of adjustability lends itself perfectly to the nature of the Autococker. Chances are if you're considering the Yakuza, you've probably got some customization to your Cocker. I promise that the Tadao is capable of accommodating your mods, with the only possible exception being if you happen to be blessed enough to own something like either a K&P Customs Ma-Deuce-A or one of Doc Nickel's Vee Twins. But barring a double Cocker (due to the requirement for two sets of eyes), the Yakuza can accommodate your customizations. Literally everything is capable of being tweaked. For example, there are ten (or so) firing modes. Each of those modes is adjustable, many of them on multiple points.
The programming is top notch. Trigger recognition is fantastic, as is the eye logic. The eyes (when using reflective eyes, at least) are adjustable for the color paint you're using. The board even uses the eye to recognize where the bolt is because it can tell the difference between the bolt and a paintball (it needs a little initial input from you here, but it's simple to do). There is even an adjustment for mQ users that allows for anti bolt stick.
Now you may worry that all these set points is going to make it confusing, but it's pretty self explanatory. Anything that isn't immediately apparent is explained very coherently in the manual. And you don't even have to worry about messing up your settings, because there are three profiles that can be permanently saved and loaded to and from the board's internal memory. Got different settings for different fields or styles of play? Just load one of your saved profiles.
And then there's the OLED display. After having dealt with the blinking LED on Tippmanns and the T-board, any display is nice. But this OLED display is like the HD of paintball screens. It's viewable in the sun, doesn't chew through the battery, and is downright sexy to look at.
Bottom line: if you can afford it, this is the ultimate electronic backbone for your custom Cocker. The question is not whether or not you should get it, but how many you should buy. I don't usually do rave reviews, but this one really deserves it.
08 September 2008 - 07:11 PMI did this mod a few months ago, but lately I've been getting a few questions about it. So I figured I'd do a write-up that I can just reference to for the future. Click on any of the pictures for a larger view.
First, the justification:
I did this as an attempt to make the fastest marker possible that uses absolutely no batteries. Obviously the A-5 is the perfect marker to start with, since an upgraded Cyclone will allow you to shoot as fast as you really want, all while never using so much as a volt of electricity.
Yes, I know: any decently set up Response Trigger will rip pretty well, but I've got one of those, and I'm bored with it. I liked the feel of a nicely set up double trigger on an E-grip, so I set out to duplicate that walkability feel without the use of batteries. So I looked to the Pneumag for inspiration.
Also, before you crack on me for using JB Weld, I've found that hardened JB Weld is easy to machine and sticks nicely to the plastic of the grip fame. With a selection of porting bits and a Dremmel, it was fairly easy to create cavities in the grip to hold the internals in place (much the same way Tippmann has molded in a place for the R/T piston to sit).
Now on to the construction:
One of the toughest parts was trying to figure out how to make the pneumatics work with a blowback style marker. With a Tippmann, I needed a system that would release the sear, then be able to recover quickly enough to "catch" the hammer the way the stock sear does. Just connecting the sear to the pneumatic ram like an E-grip would cause the marker to go full auto, which would be bad. I decided that rather than reinventing the wheel, I'd just make it so that the ram tripped the stock A-5 trigger.
The pictures explain it all. Basically, you cut off the "finger" part of the trigger, and replace it with a piece of bent aluminum. I used aluminum because it'll flex in case the ram pushes too far instead of tear off the trigger. I used epoxy to hold it to the trigger. Note that in the picture below, the aluminum isn't done being bent to fit the ram, and is much too long.
The next step was to get the pneumatics all set up. This is pretty simple. This video shows the pneumatic system independent of the grip.
Now that the pneumatics were set up, the ram needed to be cut to fit inside over and around the metal trigger tab and the pushrod needs to be cut shorter. Note that the metal tab in the picture below is still too long. Also, you don't especially need the QEV, but it helps. The last picture shows the cut pushrod (top) compared to the length it comes for a Pneumag.
With the triggering side of the mechanism finished, I needed to decide on the user interface to actuate the pneumatics. I ended up using a heavily cut Ion trigger because it comes with a ball bearing. I had to create an attachment point for it out of JB Weld, where I basically filled in the hole where the old A-5 trigger came through the grip, and built up from there. Unfortunately, I don't have a picture of the actual completed trigger.
At this point, it was just a matter of cramming everything into the grip. This took plenty of patience, lots of JB Weld, and several Dremmel bits. I found that porting bits worked out nicely. I also felt the need to cut the mounting holes out of the 3-way in order to make it fit. Note that the metal tab in this picture is still too long.
This video shows the working essentials:
Now comes the really fun part: attaching the Ion trigger to the internal pneumatics. This is the most difficult part of the whole build, just because it's so touch-and-go. This isn't going to make much sense without a picture, but you can kinda see what I'm talking about in the video below, so here goes:
I started with a piece of 6-32 screw stock. This is the tough part because the screw needs to be able to pivot on the trigger. So you've got to drill a longitudinal hole (drill a hole in the trigger, then move the drill up and down, making the hole wider along the axis of the trigger), then tap it. Then you've got to remove the threads the screw stock where it passes through the trigger frame. The rod is then attached to the 3-way with a pair of nuts. Theoretically, all you've got to do now is hook up the lines and let 'er rip. This video shows the finished assembly to this point:
I added a trigger return spring on the piece of screw stock after that video was taken. I recommend against this. The 3-way naturally returns to the starting position because of the pressure running through it. If I were doing it again, I'd let this be what pushes the trigger back forward.
This video if of the finished product. You may be able to tell that I'm acting a little curt. That's because at this point, I was completely fed up. I absolutely hated this trigger. I had to admit: it works great, but it fought me tooth and nail throughout the entire build, so I was just tired of the whole idea:
My parts list (from memory):
- stock A-5 grip halves
- stock A-5 trigger box assembly (sear, trigger, trigger plates, etc)
- A-5 double trigger (for the double trigger guard)
- sheet aluminum
- Clippard MPA-3 (*ASP*)
- Clippard QEV (optional) (*ASP*)
- Fabco MSV-2 (*ASP*)
- 3 Clippard low profile 10-32 barbs (*ASP*)
- SS MPA-3 ram (*Lukes*)
- LPR of your choice
- LPR hose
- 6-32 screw stock + nuts
- trigger w/ ball bearing.
- 1/8" NPT female T-fitting
- large tube of JB Weld
*Lukes* indicates availability at http://www.lukescust...om/page0027.htm
Now, I do have to strongly advise against anyone who may be thinking about doing this, especially if you've got any qualms against wasting time and money. While I'm glad I did it, I'll probably never use it in a game. It's just an AGG "look how complicated I can make my firing system" thing. However, if your field bans E-grip and R/T's, this could really push the envelope.
- stock A-5 grip halves