Lord Odin's Profile
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- General Paintball Discussions (17 posts)
- 12-March 08
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- Feb 17 2013 12:11 PM
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- 33 years old
- May 11, 1981
- Chicago, IL
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- Lord Odin
Posts I've Made
05 February 2011 - 08:38 AMWhat Ive done was insanly simple and for the most part effective.
Standard fine thread rifle loops work, easy to find in any wannabe sport shop for fairly cheap, just remove a screw out of the A5 body and replace the screw with the loop. The only problem Ive had with that is after some time of twisting the sling it can unscrew the loop. Locktite helps reduce this problem but I just demand that sling to be used frequently during games.
That's the exact reason why I don't want the Tippmann mount. If the strap binds against the loop in anyway, I'm afraid of it unscrewing the mount. I wouldn't want the receiver halves to loosen or possibly have it come completely out on the field.
Go here to Uncle_Mikes and order part 115B, use the machine threaded screw. Then go to the Standard Swivels section and buy either the Non Tri-Lock, Mil-Spec, or QD super swivel. They work great and are what i used. They thread right into where your normal gun bolts go, so use them instead.
My old A5 with them
That's an interesting find. How do the swivel screws work? I'm assuming the head swivels but the threading does not. If that's the case, how does the screw get threaded in or out for assembly/disassembly later?
Also, how wide are the strap openings to the 3 swivels? Is it only wide enough for a strap to be slid through or can a standard clip or mash clip be used with it? If its for a strap alone, do you know of anything specific for the latter?
14 July 2010 - 08:38 PMDefinitely don't lighten the hammer. That will actually lower your velocity and quite considerably because less mass is striking the valve pin, which results in lower volume of air being expelled.
The only two springs available that are stiffer than stock are the Maddmann red spring and TechT spring (which you usually have to ask for). Even then, its not a major increase in velocity.
How old is your A5? Does your valve have 4 channels or 2? If its 2, then you have the older style valve and can get a free replacement from Tippmann for the newer, X7 valve.
24 June 2010 - 08:11 AMYou could try bypassing your remote line altogether by screwing your tank directly into the tombstone.
Another idea would be to (barely) loosen your receiver screws. If the receivers were out of tolerance, they could create a tighter than usual fit.
It's your crossfire tank. It is only outputting 800 PSI. While that would be fine for CO2, with HPA on A5s it isn't enough. Trust me. MANY of us on the old original A5OG had this problem with Crossfire tanks. CO2 we'd shoot fine, Throw the Crossfire on and you can't get past 240-250 fps. I coudln't break 220 fps, even with a red mad man spring and a shim behind my RVA. I ended up having to go LP kit to fix it, and that just didn't work out well either, but at least i could shoot up to speed.
Many people sent their tanks back to Crossfire to add a shim and raise the output to 850 psi, they did it for free for them. Fixed thier issues. Should fix yours too.
No idea why it happens, as 800 psi is 800 psi to me, but it is all in the expansion of the gas, co2 expands faster.
Can't say I completely agree with that because I also happen to have a 15 yr old Crossfire tank and have never had an issue with it. Like I mentioned before, anything over 650 psi is enough for most A5's because anything above that and a person needs the FVA to slow it down. HPA is never a problem for Tippmann's. Unless, of course, there are other problems slowing it down, such as a bad regulator on the tank but the air is fine to use.
Good idea, that happens quite a bit.Since you've had it completely broken down, you may have switched the springs. Make sure you don't have the cocking handle spring behind the bolt & vise-versa. Not saying that is it, but just make sure.
23 June 2010 - 09:28 PMChances are your tank is outputting just fine. Most Tippmann's can operate to 650+ psi with little to no mods. Unless you're running an LP tank or your reg is severely messed up, chances are your tank and remote line are operating fine.
Also, the Cyclone and RT shouldn't rob your velocity that much. They require very little air compared to what most people think.
Have you polished your internals? Removing the paint overspray is a big culprit is slowing down the hammer from striking the valve pin with proper force. Having a smoother surface helps as well but comes with polishing.
How tight is the hammer fitting into your powertube? If its too tight of a fit, it will cause a lot of friction and slow down the hammer's movement. Do you get the same velocity problem with the stock powertube? If not, swap out your powertube.
There are more options but I would start with those for now.
19 June 2010 - 09:42 AMI'd like to see you explain and demonstrate why its important to use a vocabulary instead of referring to everything as a "bunker". People think they're communicating effectively but when everything is a "bunker," confusion and frustration can set in real quick. Show that using terminology like pallet, spool, trench, dirt mound, building on the left with only 1 window, etc, are preferable to that other word.
Another idea would be hand signals. Nothing overly complicated but some basic, universal hand signals that anyone can understand. Sometimes people will try to illustrate something but it ends up looking like they're flashing some sort of Star Wars gang signals and usually it ends up with me having to walk up to them and talk instead.
BTW, the moderator function on the YT channel is a great idea but its running into problems with the "nickname". It appears to be a problem across all YT because its a new feature. Hopefully they'll resolve it soon.
Keep up the great work!
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