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- 04-March 08
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- May 31 2008 10:58 AM
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- Retreat!?..... Hell we just got here!
- 36 years old
- October 25, 1977
- Beer, My Woman, Paintball, Engines over 300 CI, Science, Dogs, Personal Development, Destruction, Jeeps, Big Guns, need I say more.
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Posts I've Made
23 March 2008 - 01:24 PMDang BB I've read the thread front to back and I have to say you are a true artist. The stuff you're crankin out makes it hard to believe it was done by human hands. The patterns are just sooo precise and well placed. Awesome work man.
23 March 2008 - 11:55 AMCesar's right, the best way to use rattle can paint is to take your time. I painted my motorcycle using rattlecan paint and I never had runs. Hold the can about 15 inches from whatever you're spraying and go over it lightly. Almost like you're "dusting" it. Also move the paint stream in smooth long motions over your painting surface, if you spray in one concentrated area for more than half a second you'll get runs in the paint.
22 March 2008 - 01:56 PMOne of the best things you can get in the habit of doing is maintaining your weapon. I know it sounds redundant but a lot of noobs somehow screw this up. Cleaning your gun keeping it lubed on a regular basis will help ensure that your gun doesn't fail prematurely
13 March 2008 - 09:43 PMMost paintball guns are aluminum, a metal that is VERY forgiving when it comes to hand polishing. The idea behind polishing is to make the surface smoother. When you start out using a brillo or an 800 grit paper you want to use even pressure and keep the surface wet, this will keep the paper from loading up. Initially the surface should start about the same roughness as your fingerprints. The reason you graduate to higher grades of paper is to give the surface a "glassy" smoothness. The thing you DON'T want is to create little ridges or uneven humps in the surface so don't rush it and I wouldn't recommend ANY power tools because they're too difficult to regulate pressure with. The W-d40 is a good cleaning agent for the metal, but to be honest a mild dish soap will work just fine. I've polished loads of aluminum parts by hand to near mirror finishes using a combination of both brillo and wet-sanding.
06 March 2008 - 09:31 PMYou could actually get some old style military issue combat boots any most army-navy surplus shops for under a hundred bucks. This website offers for under 50, I think the military phased them out and they're going for cheap now.
I've used this style of boot for years they break in nice, I'll say that they're water resistant not fullproof, (about as close as it comes, use a little leather treatment and you'll be good to go, you can get a can for like 3 bucks), but the best part is they're reeeally light and EXTREMELY durable. You can put them through hades and they still polish up nice.
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