barrel squeegy's Profile
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- 31-December 07
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- May 21 2009 06:58 PM
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Posts I've Made
28 June 2008 - 03:05 PMa new feedneck by far
19 June 2008 - 09:28 PMid go with the warp feed because you still use your normal pods and if you decide to take more paint onto the field you only need to buy a new pod or two. but if your using a q loader you need to spend +-20 (to lazy to look up) to get a new pod. you also cant borrow paint from friends with a q. also you really dont notice the warp when your using it. my first time using it i was scepticle but once i got into a game i completly forgot about it. the warp lasts forever on 2 9volts wired in parallel (ive gone through 6 cases and am only now seeing the warp slow up, you should also add an on/off switch so that you dont have to unplug your battaries at the end of the day which is the only drawback to the warp that i have foud and it is easily remedied), so that only 9 volts is still put out but you have all the juice of 2, and the battery compartment is big enough for 2 no modding. there is no reason to be shooting over 20bps. most fields wont even allow that so over that is kinda overkill. all you need for a loader on top is a revy because as long as your strings are no longer that from the begining of the warp to the breach of your gun (about 30 balls) there is no way that the warp wont keep up, unless your shooting more than 20 bps. with an automag there are warp bodies that reduce your profile with no feednedk on top, it comes out the side. a warp can handle even the most fragile paint and it wont have breaks, with q's ive had ball break when i load the pods (which i admit was user eror) but once i got better and had no loading breaks i had breaks while the pods where in my pack id pull out a pod and there would be 2 or 3 broken balls along the line if i was using fragil paint. it is true that the warp actualy adds mass to the gun because it still uses the loader and it adds the warp on too that and the q actually takes mass away but the warp is in a place that if it gets shot you would have been shot anyway and if you are behind a bunker and it gets shot, well that is massive user eror.
so the the ups of the q are
less mass (but warp you dont notice)
no batteries (but with a warp you are good for around 6 cases and do you really shoot more than 6 cases in a day)
ups of warp
im tired of typing read the post
oh and to shoot out the right side of the bunker or viseversa if the warp is mounted on the right, you dont switch hands and roll the marker almost 90* and move the tank to the middle of your chest or even to the other shoulder. this keeps the warp behind the bunker and alows you to keep shooting with your dominate hand making for more steady shots and faster strings.
08 June 2008 - 08:58 PMi can vouch for palmers brass barrels they are very durable (at least the one i have) when i was just sarting i did a superman into a bunker and core sampled (barrel went into the dirt) this kicked the tank into my chest and put my 160 pounds plus my forward momentum on the barrel and its fine, im sure it wasnt good for it and i dont recomend doing it (really hurts) but it is fine. here's a link http://www.palmer-pursuit.com/cart/index.p...9324c1f8bdfd04a just call em up and they can get you the best barrel that you can find. i had my gun sent in to get the barrel fitted for the marker but you can also just order a barrel.
as for barrel kits i have to say that my personal favorite is the "Powerlyte Scepter" barrel kit here's a link http://www.hotshotpaintball.com/merchant2/...RRELS-POWERLYTE. you can choose 1,3,5,or 7 bores. and you can choose the size bore inserts for the kits that dont have all 7 inserts. the reason i prefer this barrel kit over others is it is a good price for the quality. and its locking mechanism makes sure that the insert is lined up with the tip of the barrel every time. sometimes in freak kits if you look down the barrel you can see where the insert meats the barrel, and that lip will catch balls and make them inconsistent in thier shot pattern.
regarding barrel length there was a study done (cant find the page) but it showed that 8 inches of barrel to be optimal for ball acceleration distance to air efficency. but anything from 8 to 14 inches is a fine length. i personaly like a shorter barrel so that i can get up and move around with ease and also there are alot of tight places at my field that a long barrel is just impractical to use in (ie trenches and towers) but if you play airball a 14inch barrel can be handy to press into the bunker to give you less of a profile. imho having a 24 inch or anything over 14inches or so (kinda depends on body size) just hinders or encumbers you on the field. if you need to think about where the end of your barrel is so you dont smack sombody with it, it might be too long . so really its just about being comfortable ive longballed people with a 8 inch barrel just as well as i have with a 14inch so thats just something to think about
oh and if all thus fails overboring is a good thing, the idea is to give each ball the same conditions going down the barrel and even in the same batch of paint there are indescrepencies in the size of the paintball and if one ball is loose and the next is just about to break in the barrel because its so tight in there you are gonna see a difference in your shots. so if you let each ball be loose the idea is that it evens the conditions for the paintballs making your shot more consistent. my second palmers brass barrel i got i had made with a .693 bore because i didnt want it fitted for a specific gun and i can vouch that with what i have seen it is a good idea. the results are about the same as my powerlyte barrel kit but i havent done any scientific testing so i cant say with certainty but i can say that as far as i can tell it is very consistent in its shot pattern. here is a video explaining it http://youtube.com/watch?v=NwN03gMASew
hope that helps
07 June 2008 - 10:08 PMor if you are dead set on going HPA you can see if there is a scuba store near you. (its wierd but i live in nebraska and there is still one fairly close to me) you can then get a scuba tank, i recomend a 80 cf 3000psi in aluminum you dont need to spend the extra money on a steel tank. anyway these scuba tanks are the most common (usually meaning the cheapest) and they get you a respectable amout of fills. i get about 20 useable fills on my 68ci 4500psi tank. just keep in mind that even when completely full a scuba tank will only fill your tank to 3000psi and it will decrease as you use it. you will also need a fill station like this one http://www.actionvillage.com/is-bin/INTERS...iwAAAD42KvkrFs5 they usually run around $40. then for a compressed air tank you will probably be fine with a pure energy tank. they are probably the cheapest but i cant vouch for their qality, but if you want a great tank go with crossfire. just make sure that you get a HP or High Pressure tank.
that should do you.
oh and the scuba store will be able to fill your scuba tank for less than a tank fill at a store, usually around $5.
31 May 2008 - 11:26 PMi find that being able to slide well really helps when getting in there for those close and dirty checks when everything is happening at once. because it keeps you out of peoples streams of fire, keeps the players happy and cuts down on bruising. when i ref at the local field i use it as a massive amount of sliding practice. it really helps my game to.