Special Ops Paintball: KRA SHARPSHOOTER - Viewing Profile - Special Ops Paintball

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KRA SHARPSHOOTER's Profile User Rating: *****

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Paintball Accessories (99 posts)
18-August 07
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User is offline Mar 17 2010 12:47 PM

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Member Title:
[ Doglegs of War ] ~Silent But Deadly~
26 years old
December 8, 1988
Male Male
New Prague, MN
Paintball,<br />Filmmaking,<br />Duck Hunting,<br />Shooting

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Website URL  http://www.kraentertainment.com

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Topics I've Started

  1. Shotgun: KRA's First Real Mod

    18 June 2009 - 07:42 AM

    Well, I've been working on this project for a little while now. I've always loved shotguns, and I really wanted one for paintball. I test shot the RAP4 one at a paintball event, but the gun didn't prove reliable to me. I decided to build one myself that would be reliable, robust, & really cool! So based off the always trusty A-5 is my pistol grip Mossberg 500.

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    Alright here's the Pics!! But don't forget to read the how it was made section at the end. :pbjtime:
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    NEW PICS & VIDEO ADDED to show Pump Arm!!

    Shotgun: KRA's First Real Mod - Mossberg M500

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    How it was made.
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    I started by Flattopping and removing the bottom lip off the stock A-5. To get the most realistic look I used the shroud, pump, & magazine off of a Mossberg M500 Airsoft gun. In order to fit my 12" C-series barrel on it I had to cut the vented shroud a little shorter. Once cut, I used JB weld to affix the shroud to the Barrel Adapter.

    The next step was the trickiest. By using a hack saw & dremel I cut the metal pipe that acted as the magazine on the airsoft gun so that it had a flat top. By using JB Weld I was able to create a flat portion on the pipe so that it would sit flat against the A-5. Then I had to drill two holes with my drill press so that I could attach the magazine to the A-5 by using the mounting slot already provided.

    Two coats of Krylon Fusion Metallic Shimmer, some stainless steel hardware(& a little modding to the grip so that the bolts would fit), throwing on the TechT Kit(Lapco Kit moved onto primary), & a DIY Tac Cap later, It's pretty much complete. All I have to do is make the pump arm not pump... I'm thinking of wrapping some electrical tape around the magazine so that it doesn't budge. I'll wait for the paint to set for a week before I attempt that though.

    I will only be attaching a rail onto the Flattop if I can find a way to affix the Mossberg stock to the grip...

    18 March 2009 - 03:41 PM

    All My Videos Here: YouTube | KRA SHARPSHOOTER - Videos

    Videos that are currently available(as of 3/18/09):

    KRA SHARPSHOOTER's A-5 (My Setup)

    Tippmann A-5:
    Tippmann A-5 Basic Maintenance
    Cyclone Feed System Basic Mainte...
    Tippmann A-5 Power Tube & Valve ...
    Tippmann A-5 Trigger Group Basic...

    Tippmann 98 Custom:
    Tippmann 98 Custom Basic Mainten...
    Tippmann 98 Custom Trigger Group...

    How To Polish Receivers:
    Polishing Internals - Brillo Pad Method
    Polish Internals - Sandpaper Method - Part 1
    Polish Internals - Sandpaper Method - Part 2

    Installation Videos:
    Dogleg Stock Installation for Tippmann A-5
    Installing TechT Complete Cyclon...
    Installing TechT Vortex Mod
    Installing TechT Lightning Rod
    Installing TechT QEPH
    Installing TechT Squishy Paddles

    Other How To's:
    Tippmann A-5 Flatline Basic Maintenance
    BT Apex Barrel Basic Maintenance
  3. How To: DIY Lapco QEPH (lots of pics)

    12 March 2009 - 04:00 PM

    What does a QEPH do?
    QEPH = Quick Exhaust Piston Housing

    A QEPH is designed to vent the pressure in front of the piston during the piston stroke and behind the piston on the back stoke. Venting the air in front of the piston during the front stroke means that you won't need as much presssure to advance the piston. By venting the air behind the piston you allow it to return faster. This yields a higher Rate of Fire. The o-ring keeps junk(dirt, paint, water, etc.) out of the Piston Housing. The groove that I show you how to cut will keep the o-ring in place so that it doesn't move during play.


    I was cleaning out my gear box the other day, and noticed that I had two spare Piston Housings. I was deeply infected with modding syndrom, so I decided to attempt a vented piston housing with an o-ring covering the holes just like the Lapco QEPH has. I noticed right off, that a tank o-ring was almost a perfect size to fit around the stock piston housing. This is great because anyone that is really into paintball has at least 2 unopened bags of these. :D

    I would like to thank sect8echo for his help on getting some pictures for me.

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    What I used:
    • Stock Piston Housing
    • Standard Tank O-ring
    • Pipe Cutter
    • Small Grinder
    • Small File
    • Drill Press
    • Wooden Dowel
    • Sandpaper
    • Time, Patience, and preferably warm hands...(it was -4F when I made mine.)
    ^^Feel free to be creative if you do not have the tools that I listed above.

    I started out by marking the Piston Housing(PH) at 1 7/8ths inch from the cyclone end. This is were the venting in on the Lapco QEPH.

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    Next I took pipe cutters and made a scribe mark on the PH. This will ensure that you have a perfectly straight line. Be careful not to make this cut to deep. It just needs to be deep enough that the grinder can follow the mark.

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    Time to grind away! I am using a little bench to grinder. It is perfect for these little mods. :)

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    Start out nice and slow. There is no need to rush this step. The more time you take, and less pressure you use, the more even your groove will be.

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    Once you have a groove that looks pretty close to the above picture, take a small file, and file off any burs that may be on the PH. This will make drilling a little easier.

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    If you have a drill press you're all set. If not, you will need to take extra care in ensuring that you drill nice and straight holes.

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    The drill bit I used was a 3/32 inch bit. I based the size off my RAP4 QEPH which has 3/32 inch holes. I think this is a little bit bigger than the holes on the Lapco QEPH, but I didn't have the Lapco QEPH in my posetion.

    I found a wood dowel that was just the right size to fit inside the PH. This helpped keep burs out of the inside of the PH. If you don't have a dowel, it shouldn't be to big of a sweat. You will just need to spend a little more time sanding the inside.

    To drill, just start out slow and even. The bit should slide into the metal without to much effort. I went all the way through the dowel and the other side of the PH. This way you get two perfectly striaght holes.

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    I used a nail to ensure that my second set of holes were perfectly centered.


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    You will drill 4 times total. This will get you 8 holes on your PH. Drill the first set. Rotate the PH 90 degree, and drill the second set of holes. Rotate the PH 45 degrees so that you are drilling between your first and second set of holes. Then rotate it 90 degrees and drill the last hole in the last spot.

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    After you are finished drilling, you should have something like this:

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    If you used a dowel, you should have almost no burs on the inside:

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    Here is the time consuming task; Sanding it smooth. I started by sanding out what little burs there were on the inside. I wanted to get it nice and smooth, so I used 600, 800, 1000, 1500, & 2000 grit sand paper. You probably don't need to use quite this many grits. I would think using just 800 & 1000 will get you decent results. Of course you will get better results the more grits you use, and the fewer sizes that you skip.

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    Once I was finished with the inside, I took the file and removed as many of the burs that I could on the out side. Once I had the bulk of the burs cut out I took the sandpaper and repeated the same process in the little groove. I used a bent paper clip to get a rounded curface for the groove.

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    Once you have it sanded down it should look like this:

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  4. Polishing Internals Test/The Best Lube

    13 February 2009 - 08:58 AM

    This is a test that I just finished for A5OG.net.


    First off I would like to thank Lord Odin for all of his support that he has showed me while I was worked on this test. I would also like to thank markerjunky for sharing his knowledge of sandpaper with me, and making it very easy to understand how to use sandpaper correctly. Last but not least, I thank Fraggy0117 for sending me his unpolished A-5 for use in this test.

    Reason for Test:
    This test was performed to determine what polishing the internals of your gun actually accomplishes, if anything. There has been a lot of talk about how some guns increased their velocity, & how it creates less wear on the internal parts, but there has never been a test to back up any of these claims.

    This thread also heavily influenced the reason for this test: Polishing internals data

    Fraggy0117 was kind enough to mail me his stock Tippmann A-5 for this test. I removed the Front sight, Rear Sight, and Front Grip so that I could more easily disassemble and reassemble the gun. The decision was main to eliminate the Cyclone from this test so that it could not effect the result. To eliminate the Cyclone I simply took a piece of packing tape and covered the port on the side of the Power Tube. I also found it easier to manually load the paintballs directly into the chamber rather than use push nob on the cyclone to feed the balls. I mad sure that I held the gun at an angle so that the paint did not fall out.

    Unfortunately I did not have HPA available for this test, nor was I able to use a stabilizer. I did use a Remote line, and delayed the firing so that the CO2 could convert into a gas in between shots. An 8" stock barrel that was unported was used to ensure that the paintaballs reached the maximum velocity without any pressure leak behind the ball. The Chronograph that was used, was a RADARchron, and I installed a fresh battery before this test began. Here is the gun & chrono that was used:

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    Oils/Lubes Used:
    I also wanted to do a comparison on oils and lubes, and what better time to compare them then when I can test the results of the oils/lubes before and after polishing. I tried to get my hands on as many different oils & lubes as I could, and here is what I ended up using in this test:
    • Lubriplate Oil
    • Hoppes #9
    • Gold Cup
    • TechT Gun Drops
    • TechT Gun Sav
    • Pure Lube
    • White Lithium Grease(WLG)
    • Dye Slick Lube
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    Testing Facility:
    I went one step farther to get as much data as I could by testing these oils/lubes in both warm and cold temperatures. The indoor temperature stayed mainly between 65 & 68 degrees F, while the outside temperatures fluctuated between -2 and 30 degrees F. I only used Nelson HotSpot paintballs for this test & I made sure that they were a fresh batch.

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    Performing the Test:
    I started by completely disassembling the A-5 and putting the tape over the Cyclone port on the Power Tube. When I lubed up the internals, I lubed the o-ring and & side of the Front Bolt, the o-ring & side of the Rear Bolt, the outside of the Power Tube stem, and lightly lubed the areas of the A-5's Receivers that the Front Bolt, and Rear Bolt have contact with. After lubing the gun, I reassembled it without the Front Grip, Front Sight, Rear Sight, or Cyclone. I hooked my Remote line directly to the tombstone so that I didn't have any possible pressure loss from the Bottom Air line. The tank that I used was a 20oz CO2 tank.

    The first shot while chronographing registered at 320fps. 10 shots later, I got the fps lowered to 280. Once the gun was chronographed I began the testing. I shot 30 shots indoors, recording the velocity for each shot. Once I was finished with those 30 shots, I set the A-5, still connected to the remote and 20oz. tank outside so that the temperature of the tank would cool. I let the gun sit outside for 15 minutes & then shot 30 shots, recording the velocity of each one.

    Once I finished shooting those 30 shots, I brought the gun inside and disassembled it. I wiped off the lube with a paper towel and used a cotton cloth with a little bit of rubbing alcohol to remove the rest of the lube. I made sure not to get the Alcohol on the o-rings, lest they should dries out and crack. Then I took the next lube, and lubed the gun up the same as before.

    I repeated the process for each lube.(lube gun, shoot 30 shots indoors, let cool outside for 15minutes, shoot 30 shots outdoors, de-lube)

    Once I had gathered all my data from test shooting, it was time to polish the internals with the sandpaper method. I took a piece of 600 grit sandpaper and got both the sandpaper, and the receivers of the A-5 wet. I polished the receivers using the Front & Rear Bolt as guides in their respected areas. Once the sludge started to build up, I would rinse it out.

    The previous step was repeated with 800, 1000, 1500, & finally 2000 grit sandpaper. Less time was taken on the lower grit numbers than the higher grit numbers. WD-40 was used to clean out the sludge between each grit size so that I could have a clean surface to work on.

    The following videos were made while I performed this test, and it covers the how to process more clearly. Click the link below the video for HD clarity. ;)
    Polish Internals - Sandpaper Method - Part 1
    Watch in HD

    Polish Internals - Sandpaper Method - Part 2
    Watch in HD

    Pictures of before and after polishing(before is first):
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    Once I had finished polishing, it was time to repeat the test shooting of 30 psintballs inside, and 30 paintballs outside with all the lubes again. I was running out of days that I could complete the testing in, so I ended up skipping Lubriplate Oil & WLG on the testing after polishing.

    Testing Data:
    Here it is:Polishing Internals Test/The Best Lube - Google Docs

    Understanding the Data:
    I'm using some of Lord Odin's information here, because he was very good at describing what I am trying to say. :)

    Rows 1 through 30 are the shot numbers recorded in feet per second (fps). The data is analyzed below the raw data and the specifications for the part are below the statistics.

    Letís talk about a few statistics definitions so we can comprehend what weíre looking at. Range is the maximum amount of velocity change that occurred. If you take the highest velocity and subtract the lowest velocity, you have the maximum difference, which is the Range. It is good to know because it shows the maximum potential fluctuation that can occur. It does not imply that is what most of the shot fluctuations will be.

    The Mean is the average velocity. You can obtain it by adding up all the velocities and dividing it by the number of shots. It will give you the middle point of the velocities and what you will expect to see most of your shots to be the closest to.

    Variance is another statistic but is usually used to obtain the standard deviation (SD). The SD is where we want to look at for consistency. The SD isnít simply dividing the range by 2. Itís the square root of the variance but to obtain the variance is a bit tricky and it isnít necessary to explain how to obtain it for this test; only what it means is important. Itís expressed in terms of the unit being measured, or in our case fps. The SD shows how much it fluctuates from the mean. Generally speaking, if the sampled distribution is normal, then 1 standard deviation should encompass about 68% of all shots. You can go 2,3, or more standard deviations to cover more of the population but most of your shots will lie in only 1 standard deviation. We can thank the wonderful Bell curve for that. The SD is what weíll be looking at for consistency as it shows how much the velocity will usually fluctuate.

    As you may have noticed, the range is not always the same as the standard deviation. That is because outliers can affect the range but they have a lesser impact on the standard deviation. That is why standard deviation is a better measurement for central tendency.

    1. I think it can be agreed upon, that polishing your internals is a great idea. For the most part you will see an increase in shot to shot consistency(also depends on lube), which is a very good thing. The following list shows which lubes had the greatest consistency(lowest STD Dev.) after polishing(the numbers in parenthesis reflect before polishing numbers, note how they are almost in the same order):
    • 3.17 - Pure Lube (4.34)
    • 4.62 - TechT Gun Drops (5.40)
    • 5.07 - TechT Gun Sav (5.75)
    • 5.15 - Hoppes #9 (7. 17)
    • 5.27 - Gold Cup (7.11)
    • 6.54 - Dye Slick Lube (7.01)
    • 6.96 - White Lithium Grease (10.87)
    2. Not all lubes are created equal. Some lubes increased performance after polishing drastically greater than other lubes. The following list shows the performance increase for each lube at indoor temperatures:
    • +35.97% - White Lithium Grease
    • +28.17% - Hoppes#9
    • +26.96% - Pure Lube
    • +25.88% - Gold Cup
    • +14.44% - TechT Gun Drops
    • +11.83% - TechT Gun Sav
    • +6.70% - Dye Slick Lube
    3. Cold temperatures have a negetive effect on some lubes after polishing. I'm not exactly sure why this is, but it must have to do with something in the Lube freezing over. Gold cup was the worst, with a decrease of 37.48% in performance, followed by TechT Gun Drops at -6.86%, and Dye Slick Lube at -4.71%. All the other lubes saw and increase in performance outdoors after polishing.

    Final Conclusion:
    I highly recommend that you polish your internals, either with the Brillo Pad method, or the Sandpaper method. From these numbers and the numbers posted in the Polishing internals data thread, I believe that the sandpaper method yeilded a better result in the final outcome, but they both increased performance.

    One lube in particular stands out above the rest & that lube is Pure Lube. It had the highest consistency of any lube before and after polishing, both indoors and outdoors. It also had the 3rd highest performance gain after polishing. TechT Gun Sav also has good solid numbers, except for the cold temperature test.


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