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- 42 years old
- September 8, 1972
- The Abyss
Topics I've Started
17 August 2009 - 01:37 PMThis is also in the marker gallery but I though Id share with the other painters. Here is my chopped and painted TM-15. All modding and painting was done by myself. Im currently retro-fitting Reloader B internals into the box magazine.
Full size: http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2421/383140...d18a89a62_o.jpg
Build info and lots more pics can be found here: <<< War's TM review and build >>>
Thanks for looking.
17 August 2009 - 07:22 AMSorry, double post. Please delete.
17 August 2009 - 07:21 AMI have a Special Ops Custom Agent vest in olive drab. I used it twice. Its just too damn hot in Florida for me to wear any vest/harness. Really well made. All molle with internal bladder pocket, elastic waist support, back padding, padded shoulders, front velcro pockets. Fully adjustable. Belt included.
Regularly $199 from SpecOps. My price: $100, shipped USPS Priority
Please post/pm. Not looking for any trades ATM. Thanks for looking.
02 August 2009 - 04:35 PMWell I finally got to a field with the TM-15 today. Overall Im very happy. Ill get to my impressions after the pics you came for.
Shown with Sanchez Machine SM1 and w/o flip up sights/hopper adapter.
On the negative side:
-The paint seems mediocre. Its finished well but doesnt take scuffing well. I could scrape it off the picatinny rail with my thumbnail. This isnt too big of a deal to me. I will be Duracoating mine soon.
-The trigger, while better than the TM-7, is very uninspiring. Feels very toy-like. Especially after shooting dual bearing triggers.
Everything else is on the up and up so far. The marker came packaged with a nice toolkit (even a battery) and well diagramed manual. Out of the box it has a great feel. Nice and solid. I gave it the once over before airing it up. It shot 306, 305, 302 (paint was RPS Premium). I didnt find that it was any quieter than my Viking but it wouldnt trigger my Empire Reloader B. I had to use a shake-and-bake hopper so I couldnt really unleash with it.
Personally I found that a 45/15 on gun was more comfortable than the stock. I didnt use the included flip-up sights either (not pictured). Te marker is ideally suited to a small holo/red dot IMO since the shroud obscures your view of the barrel tip.
I havent had time to crack the shells yet. Further review info as I dig into it further. So far Kee gets a from this customer.
18 February 2009 - 04:45 PMJust finished my latest mask painting project. I decided to go with a steampunk theme on this one. As promised I took pics throughout the process and I will attempt a little "how to" (or at least "how I did" lol )
Here is a list of the supplies I used:
X-acto knife with # 11 M blade
200 grit sand paper
alcohol (not pictured)
roll of soft release masking tape
Krylon Fusion spray paint (gloss black, copper hammered and choco brown hammered)
stiff bristle round brush
soft flat brush
fine liner brush
OK, first things first I removed the goggle strap. Then I gave the whole thing a good scuffing with the 200 grit sand paper. I know Krylon says "no sanding required" but in my experience its always best to give the paint something to really bite to.
I then wiped the entire mask down with a damp sponge pad to remove most of the dust. Then a follow up wipe with the alcohol to remove any dampness or oil residue.
Next I taped off the lense and foam. Take care not to cut into the lense when trimming the tape off. Also remember to tape the vent holes in the top of the frame (inside) to prevent misting the lense.
I gave the whole thing a base coat of gloss black. This was to be the color of the vents and has to be done first.
Then I dry brushed the vents with a contrasting color (choco brown.) I did this by first spraying a bit of color on a piece of cardboard and dipping the brush in it. Then I removed most of the paint by dabbing it on a dry area of the cardboard. Next I lightly brushed the tip across the vents to give it a worn and weathered look.
After letting the venting areas dry for a couple of hours I started masking them off. This was a tedious task of overlaying the tape, slowly working it into the corners and finally trimming it out. It probably took two hours to do complete this part. :meh:
Next I painted the frame area with a couple coats of the Choco Brown Hammered Fusion. I chose the hammered finishes because I thought it would give a cool effect to the mask.
Again I let the paint dry for a couple hours to harden adequately enough to handle. Then I taped off the frame and a portion of the lowers.
The remaining areas I hit with the Copper Hammered Fusion for a good contrasting metalic look. I forgot to take a pic at this stage :doh: sorry.
I let the entire mask sit and cure for a full 24 hours before removing the masked areas. Carefully picking them up by lifting one edge with the X-acto knife. I used the soft flat brush to paint the JT emblems in contrasting shades for detail. I also did touch up with the fine liner brush and the appropriate colors using cardboard as a pallate like before.
Here is the finished product!
Thats all for now. Thanks for looking!
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