Open Sights LLC's Profile
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- Active Posts:
- 117 (0.05 per day)
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- Mechanical Markers (33 posts)
- 17-March 07
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- Apr 12 2011 11:25 AM
- Member Title:
- Open Sights, LLC
- 40 years old
- December 29, 1973
- Middleburg, PA
- I love my family and friends. I enjoy playing paintball, of course, and I enjoy playing volleyball and golf. <br /> <br />I am a public school teacher in central Pennsylvania. I am an elementary certified teacher, K-6. I am currently teaching 6th grade general science in a middle school.
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Posts I've Made
12 June 2008 - 10:13 AMI did not even know to look in the “Paintball News” section. I have never looked in there, so I did not look there about the new Tippmann barrel. I did look in the “Mods and Upgrades Room—Barrels” section. And, I also looked in the “Paintball Marker Talk—Tippmann” section before posting my thread.
I will need to check that section out to see what is posted there about these new barrels.
25 May 2008 - 04:02 PMIt is true that is is usually more expensive to re-hydro than to by new when dealing with CO2 tanks.
To your question.. My only concern is centered around the pin valve seal. The high heat could damage that. My suggestion would be this: If you are properly equipped to do so, remove the valve prior to blast and p-coating and re-install afterwards, then re-hydro. It is my opinion that the (relatively speaking) low heat would not be sufficient to damage the tanks.
So, to sum it up - really, if you have a field and mean to do a bunch of tanks, it may be wise to contact a distributer and try to get a deal on new tanks. I would reserve p-coating for a tank that I wanted to do some special color scheme to.
Thanks, ProX . . . sound advice.
I do have a dealer account with a couple of distributors through my small business. So, maybe I SHOULD just check into replacing the tanks, after all. I will need to think it through a little more . . . in light of the advice I got from the forum.
24 May 2008 - 04:01 PMThanks, Folks.
That's all good stuff. For example, I did not know it costs that much to hydro test a tanks. Wow!!!
24 May 2008 - 11:51 AMThanks, as always, for the feedback of other members.
But, let me better explain the direction of my question. I do appreciate what you two are saying. That is certainly a practical response . . . if I cannot get them hydro tested or worse yet refilled after powder coating my CO2 tanks, that would be pretty unfortunate, to say the least.
But for me, that is not a specific issue, as I have my own small paintball business. So, I can refill my own CO2 tanks. I have two fill stations with 3, 50 lb and 3 20 lb bulk tanks. So fears of not being able to get them refilled is not a major issue UNLESS I were to go play on a pulbic field, which I do not do, virtually at all. I have my own rental field, of sorts.
But anyhow . . .
What I am really asking is "is it unsafe???" "It is unwise???" And, maybe it is. That is what I would love feedback about.
As far as hydro testing . . . that is something that I cannot do, personally. I do not even know where to go locally to have that done. But, I would definitely consider getting that done to my well over 100 CO2 tanks if I should need to, as I do respect safety.
As far being able to read the stamped letters / numbers . . . if I were to completely strip off the old paint (which I would) and then powder coat the tanks (which I only will if it is safe), then you would still be able to read all of the markings, easily.
But, perhaps that is not the point, IF it is still unsafe . . . which is the question.
The safety lables all say slightly different things. But, for the most part, they say that you should not allow the FILLED tank to get over 130 degrees F. And, you should not allow the tank, itself, to get over 350 degrees F, and if you do, you should have it hydro tested afterwards BEFORE refilling. So, my thought was, if I powder coat them at between 350 and 400 degress F, then I could just take them somewhere and have them hydro tested for safety's sake. (Some of my tanks say that after 600 degress F, they should be hydro tested, but some say after 250 degrees F they should be hydro tested. So, they vary some on that point, per company.)
Thanks again so much for your replies. I welcome more, please.
24 January 2008 - 08:32 PMI'll take #37, then.