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- 07-October 06
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- Jun 04 2009 11:23 AM
- Member Title:
- Tank Pilot
- 23 years old
- June 5, 1990
- Salmon Arm, B.C., Canada
- Paintball, Dirtbiking, Snowboarding
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Topics I've Started
12 November 2008 - 12:13 AM
27 February 2008 - 08:41 PMSo, I'm designing a shroud to go over the top of my piranha. I drew up plans on it.
I have a cardboard mock up of #3 (except for the thumbhole) right now and I'm liking how it fits. I'm also looking to make the stock thumbhole instead of a standard rifle, any suggestions on how far away from the grip the hole should be? and what I could use to do this. I have lots of tools to work with, just wondering whats best; my dremel will need a better bit if I use it though.
Also, I wanted to mount a Palmers stabalizer, but I didn't really want it sticking out the bottom of the gun and whatnot. So I was thinking if there was someway I could tap it into the "volumizer" with a direct stabalizer (http://www.palmer-pu...zer-direct.htm) and have the stab lay inside the rifle body at the very front, since it's just empty space
(Notice empty space in front of the direct ASA hole) Then I would plug the direct vertical asa and run the airline from the rear asa straight to the reg (hopefully without putting another hole in the rifle body) I'm sure this would work, since I have a volumizer that is hollow (like most) and I also have one that is solid, essentially a plug, if I cut the excess metal off then drilled and tapped it to accept airlines, it should work.
Also need to do some trigger work(guard, need the ring farther back as well)
Putting 2 rails on the shroud as well , one on the left of the body and one on the top. Then I'll mount my red/green dot to it.
debating now if I want to put the stab inside the rear of the shroud on top of the gun, where the old rail used to be... probably would fit better, but the lines would be harder to do...
mock up. need to cut thumbhole and make the real shroud. Imagine it black without tape.
19 February 2008 - 11:34 PMAnyway, I've fixed plenty of markers before. Many of worse quality, but I cannot seem to stop this MR1 from leaking.
I completely stripped it, cleaned it, lubed it
replaced the hammer o-ring with a new red hammer o-ring
replaced a valve body o-ring
and it still leaks out the barrel, fires fine, but leaks. The only problem I can find is the ball detent was sliced off when he(owner) put the bolt in upside down.
Anything else I can try?
11 February 2008 - 07:44 PMJust some of my guns and gear.
Custom Piranha Rifle:
(I wanted a vertical feed to cut down on the huge hopper lift. I never look down the top of my gun anyway. Moved all upgrades over to the R6 body.)
Rockmount Rifle Bipod
14'' J&J ceramic (Or My 12'' spyder shutter barrel, both are nice)
Spring kit (valve and hammer)
Brass eagle 40 round box hopper
Custom made quickstrip pin for the body. (A nail cut in half and a hole drilled through it)
Dead On Paintball Pro Seal front bolt
Dead On Paintball Pro Seal powertube
Rocket cock 2
Stock barrel cut to 3'' and polished OR Flatline
PCS 6 Position car stock
12 volt revvy with X-board
Tactmark red/green dot(goes on the Flatline with a rail attached offset style)
Little Piranha VL's
Making them into a Double Trouble.
I have quite a random assortment of upgrades I could put on. Barrels, spring kits, different hoppers, bottom lines and Stocks.
Modded into feasible fully auto
The Spyders (Rodeo, X-tra and Victor)
EDIT: Rodeo now has a rocking trigger.
EDIT2: I sold the rodeo to a friend for his response trigger and 20$, it gets used much more now.
The guns I don't use, and/or broken
Silver eagle missing parts
Talon leaks and the barrel almost broke in half
Aw, aren't they cute
My main ones.
Got gear?(missing 3 of my masks in these pictures and the 2 extra tippys ain't mine.)
27 January 2008 - 07:38 PMA progress thread on my teams paintball APC. It's getting redone, paint, turret, new windows, some general fixes.
Pictures of progress.
Took off radio antenna. Started taking off tin windows and passenger side plexiglass. Sanded some of if down. Fixed driver side fender. Only had 20 minutes to work on it.
Finished taking off all tin windows and passenger side plexiglass. Most basic sanding done. Turret hole cut. Passenger seat removed. Leftover interior removed in the rear. Air ducts removed. New grill almost complete. Roof rack removed and roof dent knocked out. 3 hours of work.
Took off little side windows. Paint cleaned off windows. Turret hole grinded smooth and bigger diameter. More sanded. Heater core removed and and fan unit in the back removed. All electronics and wiring in the back removed including speakers (to be rewired). New slider door handle bolted on. Patch work being done on holes. Roof handles put in for passengers. Interior sanding started. Lots of rust removal. 5 1/2 hours of work.
Grill worked on. finishing up body sanding. removing bit and pieces that don't need to be there. Started it up today, fast and easy (Doesn't sound good, though, that's how its always been). Checked some engine stuff. Lots of interior sanding and cleaning up in general. Brought the tin material in for the windows(Don't think we have enough though). Got the seat plan ready for the rear of the van(custom seat work, no more big bulky stock seats). Also did a little side project, cut down my 98 stock barrel to 3 inches, inclined for driver use. 2 hours of work.
More sanding. small part removal. nothing major. Too tired from work to do much.
Finished grill. Painted most interior (not enough to finish). Cut new window covers (not attached yet though). cleaned up in general. Last day of working on it in the shop(school starting again). Taking it home to finish the windows soon.
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