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Posts I've Made
30 July 2009 - 08:05 PMYou have to drill a hole in the casing to install. A used or punctured 12g must be installed to use. It sticks out about 1.5 inches which is a bit odd on a left-hand holster. It has a charging effect on the marker; when you remove the remote you have a number of shots left. I wish it didn't stick out so far, had a hole with cap in the receiver, and it really should have been included with the marker but it works as advertised.
03 July 2009 - 05:20 AMI'm a long time Tippmann user but that all changed after playing with an ION for a day. I had actually fired several ION's in the past and was not impressed but once I took the time to get used to the marker I was blown away. That ended my A5 obsession and I soon had 2 tricked out ION milsim rigs. I purchased one of the first SP-1's and it never worked very well. I had to send it in twice to get it fixed but keep in mind this was one of the first few hundred sold. Remembering back to my ION experience I decided to play a day with my SP-1 and now my ION markers are collecting dust. I used a gravity hopper for lower profile and can still rip 10-15 round strings on full auto with no issues. Full auto on the stock board is something like 8-10 bps I think. The SP-1 is louder with more pronounced recoil than the ION but is a perfect fit with a stock for my playing style. My only gripe is I want a more easily detachable CAR stock.
The simplicity of the board, milsim setup with ION like performance, the low force bolt, light-weight, low recoil, the select fire capability, and excellent regulator aare huge selling points compared to markers in the same class. With new board and bolt options itís only getting better. I have never had a break after 10,000 rounds. Anyone claiming that with an A5 is lucky or lying. Full disassembly sucks but unlike the A5 this is rarely necessary. I know people that only strip their A5 once a year or more but I like a clean marker and would do a complete strip and clean at least every 2-3 games. With my SP-1 I wipe it down at the end of the day Iím done. I think some markers like the ION have too many configurable settings and adjustments making it difficult to get everything tuned just right. This is one area where the stock SP-1 shines because the options are good but not to the point that it gets confusing.
There is no comparison between the SP-1 and A5 stockÖSP-1 wins hands down for those that have actually played with both. The A5 really is a poor choice for left handed players as well. If you want to be super quite use an automag, ION, or Invert Mini.
22 March 2008 - 06:48 AMI like the APE board myself but if you do want to just get a new board you can usually get a stock board on eBay pretty cheap...maybe even sell the old one to cover some of the cost. You probably need to replace both wires with the battery attachment if you cut one of the wires. I think its reasonable not to want to mess with it. You could also send it in to SP for repair.
18 March 2008 - 11:28 AMI just got a used SP-8 a few weeks ago though I haven't played with it yet. The marker is bulky but has a nice feel to it. I'm not crazy about the angled feedneck. I think the marker is perfect for a Q-loader if you like that type of setup. The stock barrel looks cool but its a brick. The plastic definitely becomes weaker with age...you won't see many of these around in 5-10 years. Also, I've heard that SP has officially discontinued the SP-8. I'm very hopeful that SP will continue to make more milsim markers though. I definitely prefer a tactical ION but the SP-1 can't match the Sp-8 in my opinion.
16 March 2008 - 06:57 AMThis can be caused by a variety of issues but it all comes down to the bolt is not going back far enough to catch the sear or the sear is not catching the bolt...ie the sear is worn. Having a worn sear isn't common, even on old rentals. This may be an issue if someone intentionally modified the hammer or sear though. More than likely it is something less serious:
Ball detent is in backwards.
You used too much oil or the wrong kind and it's slowing the bolt.
There is dirt or some obstruction inside the chamber that is slowing the bolt.
The main spring is too light, usually if it has been clipped or left cocked for a long period of time.
If you have an RVA this could help...
The guide pin or spring is bent.
The reducer nut that screws into the valve, the air line, is too tight and is pinching the valve internals.
The marker isn't getting enough air...usually seen with HBA, remote line, or low air in tank.
The front bolt is sticking on the power tube. This happens when the front bolt is a replacement and the bolt slides past the power tube and gets caught on the way back or the connecting pin between the bolts drops through the top of the front bolt and catches the power tube front lip...watch the marker manually cycle with not barrel to observe the front bolt.
The guide\connecting pin between the bolt is slipping out or its the incorrect length...if someone replace this from another Tippmann model it can mess things up....they look the same but all are different lengths.
Anyway your best bet is to strip and clean it again. Go light on the lube and don't force the air line reducer fitting into the valve and seal the connection with lock tight if it leaks...Teflon tape will leak eventually.
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