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- February 20, 1984
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Topics I've Started
15 September 2010 - 07:50 AMOk, these are the pouches I am currently using for my TPX.
The reason that I chose the stacked-type pouch was that I run pistol-primary, and prefer to only use a web belt to carry my mag pouches, holster, and dump pouch, so my space is at a premium. Now, just because I play pistol only doesn't mean I only want to carry the bare-minimum ammo. I play big-format games pretty much exclusively, so carrying as many mags as I can, IMO, helps me stay out on the field and effective as long as possible. So I carry 18 mags, 16 of which are held in these pouches, 1 in the holster pouch, and 1 in the TPX itself. It may seem like a lot of mags, but they weigh practically nothing, probably the same weight, if not less, than a P3 pack loaded with T8 mags.
The problem I am having is that since my Emdom pouches were designed for real-steel mags, they are a bit too snug on the mags. At first, this was merely an inconvenience putting the mags INTO the pouches. Drawing them out was smooth enough and they held securely. That is, until I hit a few really hot days and realized that the tension of the pouches, combined with the heat softening the plastic of the mags, was pushing the front edge of the mag's shell inward, just enough to drag on the follower and stop it midway up once it was loaded into the pistol. This results in 3-4 shots, and then a failure to feed. I can bend the shell back out again, but once loaded into the pouches for any amount of time the problem re-occurs.
So I was wondering if SpecOps could make something that was similar to these, but a bit improved and specifically to fit TPX mags (or even T8 mags if its do-able, although I think the weight of those would make them somewhat unwieldy sticking so far out).
Here's a list of things that can be improved on with these pouches:
1) Too tight! I'd rather have them loose enough so that if held upside down with the flap open, the mags will drop out. Just to be SURE that there will be no more deformation of the mag. I would prefer to ditch the outer elastic band altogether as well for the same reason. The internal divider flap can stay so long as it doesn't make things too tight.
2) Have a full-coverage flap, like on the single mag pouches I found listed on the SO site. The skinny flap on the Emdom's is fine for real steel but allows paint spray, dirt, and other stuff to get in and gum up the works if I'm crawling or something. In all honesty, something with even more coverage than that (perhaps a flap with some sidewalls) might be a good idea if it can be done as well.
3) Have the pouch itself cover more of the mag, preferably coming up at least 2/3's to 3/4's of the way to the "top" of the mag (I normally mount them bottom-up, so "top" is a relative term).
The only other pouches like these that I've found are made by Milsig and come in at about the same price. I can get them from one of my sponsors, but I'm not SURE that they fit any better, and still have the skinny flap and low pouch height.
I would be ready and willing to buy 4 such pouches, possibly up to 6, if its something you could do. Price is less of a concern for me than having something I KNOW will work, and will hold up to abuse. These things need to survive being dragged through dirt as I belly-crawl through brush, and protect the mags as much as possible in the process.
What say ye, SpecOps?
27 August 2010 - 08:50 PMHey guys-
I'm noticing that now that you've gone to a "made to order" basis, a lot of the products require calling/emailing in to handle quotes and such. That's all well and good, but for me as a 3rd shifter, it can be really hard to get on the right schedule just to call in to organize and order. And frankly, what I'm looking for most of the time isn't THAT custom.
Maybe if you could just include a simple form on the store with the more common options included for things it could help simplify the ordering system somewhat? It should even make things easier on you, since you don't have to answer phones and sift through emails trying to organize things.
For the Modular Shoulder Holster, why not include a drop down list of the more common gun types? T8, TPX, PGP, STBB (stacked tube blowback; Zeus/Delta/Ariakon/etc), and then just a section for additional notes, like "T8 has UMS compensator", "TPX has top rail with red dot", etc, and then if you need further information from the customer you can just have a rep email them for clarification. While for something very custom or specific I can see the need for calling in and getting on the same page, if all I'm looking for is an MSH for a T8.1 w/ a compensator, and a 3 mag pouch for it, in OD green, I don't feel that's something I should have to wait up an extra 2-3 hours after I would normally be going to bed just to call in to order, you know what I mean?
Or, a couple of MOLLE pouches for T8 mags made like the ones on the P3 pack (full coverage, velcro enclosure). I don't even see any mag pouches listed on the site at all.
Maybe its just me? I'm not antisocial or anything, but I hate using the phone to order things, and being on vampire-time I prefer to just order from the site and go. And not just for MY convenience, but I feel this would make things a lot easier on you as well, so it seems like a win/win...
21 August 2010 - 11:59 AMWell, after getting back out with the TPX a few times, I've started to get around to fixing some of its minor issues and improving on some things I felt could be better.
I've been on a big kick lately about trying NOT to spend ridiculous amounts of money on my gear anymore. So these projects were all designed for maximum benefit at minimum cost, and can be duplicated easily if you have a modicum of experience with hand tools and a dremel. In one case I DID have an unfair advantage with the use of a Bridgeport vertical mill at work, but it is NOT necessary, just makes things easier and faster. Feel free to read through and then add your free/cheap mods for the TPX.
"Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away."
- Antoine de Saint-Exupery
Rail and Finger-Groove Removal
For those that haven't seen mine or AgentSmith's TPX's before, the first steps were removing the rail and fingergrooves. While I used the Bridgeport vertical mill at work to remove the rail quickly and cleanly, anyone could do this with some time, and a dremel or assortment of files and sandpaper. The grooves were removed using a dremel with a heavy grit sanding roll, followed by gradually working at it with sandpaper from 80 grit incrementally up to 400 grit. IMO, this makes the TPX worlds better to hold and aim, as the grooves are spaced so far that even with my big hands, my pinky was stretched enough that it created a tendency to aim low.
Adding Some Leverage to the CO2 Plug
Next up, was the common problem that changing out pressurized 12 grams is, frankly, a pain in the ***... What I did was drill and tap the bottom of the plug for a 1/4"-20 threaded bolt, and found one just the right length to barely stick past the bottom of the clamshells so as not to snag in the holster. Now, this isn't a perfect solution, as if you attempt to remove the plug with a FULLY pressurized 12ie, it will almost always go straight past the "step" and either blow out the pierce seal from behind the snap ring, OR launch the 12ie like a missile. Which looks pretty cool, but isn't the safest thing. However, it works great for when you get down to the last mag or so before empty(normal use as far as I'm concerned). Something like AgentSmith's "decoder ring" will work a lot better for you (more leverage = more control) if you want to be able to remove full-pressure 12ies.
Smoothing Out Mag Changes
Another thing I found was that on fast, no-look mag changes, I'd often get the mag hung up on the edges of the magwell, and would have to look down to reorient myself and get a clean mag change. Part of this is simply a lack of familiarity and a need to retrain my muscle memory to the mag changes. But, to make things even easier on myself, I performed an operation common in real-steel competition pistols- I chamfered the bottom edges of the magwell. This was done with a small diameter sanding roll on the dremel, and then smoothed out with various grades of sandpaper. I actually plan on hitting this again and going a little more extreme on the front and rear edges (the sides are maxxed out already) but it is already a VAST improvement in speed-reloading compared to stock. And it was easy and FREE to do!
Installing a "Man's Detent"
This one is a bit more complex, and requires a 3/8"-24 tap, and the requisite drillbit (the size of which escapes me at the moment). I have always HATED the Tippmann "ball latch", or detent. It provides a lot of drag on the bolt (pass the bolt through the breech block by hand with the detent installed and you can feel the difference) and IMO, probably contributes to paint breakage with the more brittle paints. So I got frisky and decided to install an autococker ball + spring type detent. I will advise that you don't attempt this one unless mechanically inclined as alignment is pretty important- too far back and it will interfere with the ball loading into the chamber, too far forward and it will let the second ball in the mag partial-feed and possibly get clipped by the bolt. I lined up where the point of the original "ball latch" was, and used vernier calipers to score a line across the side of the block to mark the spot. I then put the block in the drill press and centered on that line, and drilled a hole. After deburring the freshly drilled hole, it was simply a matter of tapping for the detent.
After tapping, you need to align your detent. Since the TPX is not the original application, screwing it all the way in will inevitably leave the threaded portion sticking into the breech and will either prevent your bolt from coming forward or score the crap out of it over time. You need to use some loc-tite (or, I find a dab of crazy glue works just as well and secures faster), and set the detent at the proper depth. Alternatively you can use washers or o-rings to shim the detent. I used a Check-It Products rebuild-able model that has a removable cap so you can change the spring and ball without taking the whole thing out. The last thing you need to do is drill a hole in the right side clamshell to allow the end of the detent to stick out of it. My advice is to start with a small bit and gradually step up to the size bit you need, as when I went from a small bit directly to the big one, it tore up the rectangular portion on the outside of the clamshell (see area around detent in pics).
Sadly, I didn't have the camera with me at work but you can see what it looks like from the outside in the pic. Also, depending on your preferences, you can also add another detent to the other side if you utilize field paint that is extra extra small. Even though the cocker detent sticks less than half as far into the breech as the "ball latch", I have no issues even with paint smaller than .684", even if I shake the pistol really hard to attempt to dislodge the ball from the chamber.
Also performed but no pics:
Polished the inner bore of the breech block to 400 grit finish
Chamfered breech hole (the one the balls pass through leaving the mag)
Polished the outside of the bolt to 400 grit finish.
Before the mods I was seeing visually noticeable velocity drop by the end of the 3rd mag. After, I have witnessed no VISIBLE drop until midway through the 4th and complete gas-out at the 3rd ball or so into the 5th mag. This is with the stock barrel and VERY small paint. My only big-dollar mod planned for this pistol is a Python barrel kit so that I can do a light underbore to achieve (hopefully) better efficiency and more consistent velocity, so we'll see how things go after that. I'm also mildly considering (simply because its cheap) giving the TechT spring kit a chance. I don't believe their claims about reduced ball breakage (if anything, in a mech spool gun, a lighter spring should have the opposite result), but lighter springs COULD very well increase efficiency.
05 May 2010 - 03:15 AMHi guys, I need a board for my Ion project. I'm not terribly picky, but I do have some requirements a board must meet for me to be interested in buying it.
-Does not require use of a membrane pad for power or tuning, or any sort of special grips or a particular frame
-Has an adjustable ramping activation setpoint
-Preferrably does not have an automatic shutdown feature, or if it does, then at least one with an adjustable time limit (not mandatory, but would be preferred).
The absolute limit I'm willing to spend here is $70 shipped for a good used board. I would prefer to pay as little as possible though, so competitive offers and what sort of features the board has will play into how much I'm willing to pay.
Show me what you've got!
18 December 2009 - 07:03 AMAs the Red Team XO for this game, I'm issuing the call for all worthy 'ballers to come and help defeat the Blue menace at this game! We have some great teams on board but need more! PM me for details...
QuoteWell folks DOX5 is this spring. Each Dark Ops Extreme game we like to add something new.Keep an eye on this thread for updates. I expect to have a few real soon
One update I can mention is the price! Dark Ops and Dark Ops Extreme games have always been a great value for the players. The monthly Dark Ops went to free admission and free air when you buys a case of Procaps at the field.
For this event we are doing the same thing but you will need to pre pay.$59.99. Working with our sponsors the office in Ny managed to drop the price by 10.00.
pre pay here and choose your team http://www.paintball....&categoryID=16
BLUE TEAM GENERAL - Leo "LEOWULF" Vita, (The Assassins)
Assassin Leo "LEOWULF" Vita is a fierce competitor and long time baller. LEOWULF has most recently led the Assassins to a strong finish in the '09 NE SPPL qualifier & rallied his troops at the 2009 Wounded Warrior Charity game. He has stepped up to take the reigns of the North East’s toughest & most feared paintball teams.
The Blue Team XO is Brandon "Breezy" Goodish from the Reservoir Dogs. The Blue leaders promised to unleash a special hell on all who chose to oppose them @ DOX5.
RED TEAM GENERAL - Comm. Johnson, (Team E.O.P.A.)
Comm. Johnson and Team E.O.P.A. have proven themselves on the Dark Ops battle field by winning when they played mercenaries alongside The Assassins and winning MVT at an earlier DOX event.
The Red Team XO is Jay Bruzaitis A.K.A. (RogueShooter) from Imminent Threat Scenario Team won MVP at DOX4. The Red leaders know every square foot of Cousins 80 plus acre NJ field, an advantage they plan on using to lead their team to victory
Prepay 59.99 + tax
prepaid by Thursday March 25, 2010
Includes admission, air, 1 case (2000 balls) Procaps paint
Rentals are 10.00 extra
Register Online or call 631-698-6230
$79.99 plus tax ( includes admission, air, 1 case (2000 balls) Procaps event paint.
Rentals are 10.00 extra.
Walk-ons are always welcome!
Early Check in:
For your convenience you will able stop by on Saturday March 27, 2010 at the field to check in and pick up paint.
Everyone that plays will be required to fill out an insurance waiver. For faster check in, please have your waiver fill out in advance. You can down load it from our web site.
Times: (Gates Open 7:00
Pre game rules 9:00 (target range)
Game starts 9:30
Lunch 12:30 (1 hour lunch)
Game ends 4: 30
Post game ceremony 5:00
2000 paintballs $59.99 +tax
1000 paintballs $34.99 +tax
500 paintballs $24.99 +tax
Please remember this if EVENT only paint and can only be purchase at the field.
The team with the most points at the end of the day wins.
Each team will have one General and one XO.
There are 3 ways to score points:
1. The General raises an objective flag 1,000 Points
2. Shooting a General 500 Points (anyone can shoot a General)
3. Missions 100 – 500 Points (Only XO’s must be present)
There will be 5 objectives located on the field. These are where the General can raise a flag for points.
Goggles must be worn at all times on the field.
Barrel Plugs MUST be used while you are not on the playing field.
When a player is hit, they should raise their hand, cover their barrel and leave the field immediately. All players should report back to their insertion area. Our staff will be reinserting players as quick as possible.
Players CAN NOT camp reinsertion zones. Doing so will result in a penalty.
Boundaries are the yellow caution tape. Ignore the ropes.
On field netted dead zones are out of bounds.
Max Crono is 280 fps.
On field props CANNOT be moved or changed. Your team will receive a penalty if you are caught tampering with a prop.
Cousins will be using radio channels 1-10 and ALL sub channels. Players may use radios on channel 11 and above.
Please be careful with your wristband. We cannot replace lost or missing bands.
This is EVENT paint only. All paint MUST be purchased from the field
This is a special event with a discounted price. It can’t to be combined with any other promo or specials.