Special Ops Paintball: A-5 breaking paint - Special Ops Paintball

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A-5 breaking paint Rate Topic: -----

#16 User is offline   Argelmcgee 

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Posted 13 November 2006 - 09:18 PM

I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM. I thought it was the Stabilizer I had on my gun, I'm still not positive. I found out that my Cyclone RATCHET wasn't greased enough (not oiled) so I got some Lithium grease from Sears, bought a Vortex ratchet and installed the Vortex, greased it well and the problem went away. Try getting some WHITE Lithium grease from Sears and oil up your ratchet. If you have ever taken apart the Cyclone and cleaned out the grease in the Cyclone then re-oiled it with Tippmann's stuff, you need white Lithium grease.

Hope this helps,
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#17 User is offline   da Squid 

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Posted 14 November 2006 - 08:51 PM

View PostArgelmcgee, on Nov 13 2006, 11:18 PM, said:

I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM. I thought it was the Stabilizer I had on my gun, I'm still not positive. I found out that my Cyclone RATCHET wasn't greased enough (not oiled) so I got some Lithium grease from Sears, bought a Vortex ratchet and installed the Vortex, greased it well and the problem went away. Try getting some WHITE Lithium grease from Sears and oil up your ratchet. If you have ever taken apart the Cyclone and cleaned out the grease in the Cyclone then re-oiled it with Tippmann's stuff, you need white Lithium grease.

Hope this helps,
Argelmcgee



you know what you just answered my question, my problem was that the A5 was one moment chopping balls, the next minute shooting blanks (with a full hopper) then multiple balls would be fired in a single shot. i just chopped one too many balls (i was using pmi marbilizer) or my co2 tank was just frozen (24 oz which the field always has problems filling and it was around 48 degrees game time). i did find that my cyclone feed still jammed after repeated attempts to reset the cylinder. hmmm i guess i'll do the above first.
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#18 User is offline   Marshall The Guy 

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Posted 16 November 2006 - 07:50 PM

thats pretty odd, with my a5 and co2 ive shot over 5000 rounds and no chops yet..... well i hope you find out what the problem is
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#19 User is offline   MAD KLOWN 

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Posted 21 November 2006 - 04:54 AM

i had similar problems with my A-5 Stealth...and it was just out of the package. My dad and I both knew it wasn't shooting right from the beginning..but we went along and kept playing...then after a few weeks..it literally chopped paint every 2nd or 3rd ball. So, just this past weekend, my dad tested it and said it wasn't shooting right still...we tried the velocity and we couldn't get it over 202 on the chrono...we gave to Matt (for those who know who he is at Matt's OB) and he said it was an 'Internal Factory Defect' ?

So this whole time my gun was shooting gelatin soup at 10bps..because of a factory problem....any thoughts??

:smoke:

----> oh, and im using hpa

This post has been edited by MAD KLOWN: 21 November 2006 - 04:56 AM

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#20 User is offline   SHADOW VIPER 

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Posted 02 December 2006 - 11:00 PM

The only time I ever had a problem with mine breaking paint was when I used the cheap Wal-Mart paint then I was breaking them constantly. I switched to Diablo Heat, and Draxxus and have not had a problem since. :(
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#21 User is offline   LT.CDR.STINKY 

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Posted 03 December 2006 - 12:07 PM

I added a Vortex Mod and QEV... Marbs were fine except for a few flatline breaks, but that's sqeegeed quickly taking off the flatline (see here what I mean: http://forum.specialopspaintball.com/index...c=81979&hl= )

BUT, i was also shooting Evils which have their good and bad days... this time the cyclone seemed to have killed one inside the cyclone... makes for a nice cleaning job.

Overall though I get about 2-5 flatline breaks per thousand shots...
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#22 User is offline   Pirate 

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Posted 10 December 2006 - 02:25 PM

I was having this same problem last weekend. I was using "Brand New" DraXxus Midnight, which turned out to be the problem. The paint had a very brittle shell and was rather dimpled (that's the store I bought it from, not DraXxus themselves).

I used some OLD paint (XBall Silver) and it shot fine.
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#23 User is offline   polymorphic 

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Posted 05 June 2008 - 04:41 PM

Hey, I'm having the same problem with breaks. I use hpa, rps premiums, a stiffi tip with dye ultralight back, and I have the A5-A2 EZ kit. The breaks are killing me in woodsball even with the self cleaning on the stiffi (the balls gain a hook from all the paint in the barrel). I have also noticed that my Stiffi is keeping moisture in the barrel after games (the entire inside is coated). Really need to know how to fix this or what to upgrade so that the problem disappears.
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#24 User is offline   Knightwolf16 

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Posted 08 June 2008 - 11:15 PM

When I upgraded my A5 to an E-grip with Rampage board, I was breaking paint left and right, even after upgrading to a JCS Pro Rachet and the Tech T lightning rod. I then changed the piston housing on the cyclone to the X7 piston housnig and my breakage problems stopped. The X7 piston housing lowers the cyclnig pressure, allowing it to cycle faster. The QEPH from Tech T also does the same thing but it costs twice as much.
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#25 User is offline   TyTy 

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Posted 12 June 2008 - 12:44 PM

Polymorphic, if your Stiffi has moisture inside use a squeegee to get it out. I usually squeegee after any ball break self cleaning or not. Don't use a fluffy stick or barrel swab (no furry ones) because that voids the warranty. Little pieces of hard somethings stuck on the swab can scratch the inside. I'd check the size of your ultralight back. If it's any smaller than .688 it could be a simple paint to barrel mismatch. Try a few different kinds of paint through it. Here's what I (not my idea), and others can do to check if your paint will fit. Drop a ball into your barrel, if it rolls through your paints too small, if it gets stuck, blow it out. If you really have to blow hard to get it out it's too big. I do it where if it hurts when it hits my hand when it comes out it's too big. If a gentle blow makes it slide the rest of the way out your paint is pretty close to just right.
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