Special Ops Paintball: How-To: Polished Internals - Special Ops Paintball

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How-To: Polished Internals (A5/98)

#31 User is offline   OmgItsAFire 

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Posted 31 December 2006 - 08:31 PM

View PostnaMrevOemaG, on Dec 31 2006, 09:26 PM, said:

its harder for a 98
you'll need a Teflon Paste to reseal teh valve bolts
he used an A5 for the example


Yeah I decided to keep that in just use a wet paper towel to clean the part im gonna polish and just leave the rest the way it is.
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#32 User is offline   nick_can_fly 

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Posted 05 January 2007 - 12:53 PM

how does the oiling work? can i use extreme rage and where should i use it?
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#33 User is offline   Mad Russian 

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Posted 07 January 2007 - 11:47 PM

how necessary is the wd-40? couldnt i just use regular tippmann gun oil and kinda scrub with it ?
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#34 User is offline   JackRock 

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Posted 08 January 2007 - 12:10 AM

The key is to remove the overspray without damaging the aluminum.
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#35 User is offline   Mad Russian 

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Posted 08 January 2007 - 11:45 AM

ok i just did all the instructions and i even found some wd-40 , however i lost my tippmann gun oil, is it necessary to dry shoot the gun with oil in line or does it do the same effect i just did with the wd-40?
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#36 User is offline   Jaron 

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Posted 08 January 2007 - 11:49 AM

I'm told that WD-40 contains petroleum distillates, which corrode O-rings. Just get some good machine oil. And by firing it with the oil in your air line, it spreads it around easily to the parts inside that need it.
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#37 User is offline   OmgItsAFire 

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Posted 08 January 2007 - 06:00 PM

ok jw but my gun has a rough area of metal... its basically a raised line in the front bolt, not that raised but it feels rough while the rest is smooth, is that normal?

This post has been edited by OmgItsAFire: 08 January 2007 - 06:02 PM

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#38 User is offline   Jaron 

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Posted 08 January 2007 - 06:01 PM

Not to be insulting or anything, but run a spell check and break that into sentences, I don't know what you mean.
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#39 User is offline   OmgItsAFire 

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Posted 08 January 2007 - 06:06 PM

yeah sorry, I realized how screwed up that was and edited before I saw your post lol
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#40 User is offline   Jaron 

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Posted 08 January 2007 - 06:13 PM

Is this on your front bolt, or the rear hammer? If on the bolt it sounds like a seam from the mold. I'm sure you can lightly sand that down if you wish. Perhaps I still don't understand fully what you mean.
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#41 User is offline   Dark Shadow Hunter 

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Posted 14 January 2007 - 02:11 PM

Just polished mine today. Make sure you have at least two to three hours to devote to the task. It is one of the least expensive things you can do to your marker, but it takes a while.
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#42 User is offline   ╬CROSSHAIR╬ 

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Posted 14 January 2007 - 03:36 PM

i just finished doing it with the S.O.S pad method. it worked very good. i was really suprised at how much paint was spraid into the workings of my gun (ive taken it apart before but never really noticed till i got it to shine like it now does, see pics for difference). the only thing im a little let down by is the fact that the front section of the shell still has a little bit of roughness to it due to poor molding. that isnt the polishings fault at all, i just wish i would have tried the sanding method in stead, although that would have cost me money and the S.O.S one didnt cause i just stole the nessasary stuff from my parents, lol. i will do it that way next time i open my gun up, which wont be soon. btw, i dont think that time is the most important part of this job, its patience....i was going to kill someone as i was trying to get it back together because of the stupid front iron sight/elbow holder spring not couperating. also i would like to add that anyone trying this should have a container for their parts like a tupperware dish. the parts are very small and it came in handing becuase of all the other times i spent looking for the parts i droped...needless to say i finaly got smart this time of taking it apart.




the difference between polished and unpolished......

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Attached File  IM000297.JPG (225.12K)
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#43 User is offline   SWATORNOT 

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Posted 14 January 2007 - 03:41 PM

View PostJaron, on Jan 8 2007, 11:49 AM, said:

I'm told that WD-40 contains petroleum distillates, which corrode O-rings. Just get some good machine oil. And by firing it with the oil in your air line, it spreads it around easily to the parts inside that need it.

Yes, DO NOT use WD-40 as the lubrication source for the marker. As stated it will eat up the o-rings. The WD-40 is just for cleaning the surfaces after you have cleaned them
<div align="center"><b><a href="http://forum.specialopspaintball.com/index.php?showtopic=79662" target="_blank">How-To: Flatline Barrel</a> <a href="http://forum.specialopspaintball.com/index.php?showtopic=79663" target="_blank">How-To: Polished Internals</a>
<a href="http://forum.specialopspaintball.com/index.php?showtopic=72814&hl=How-To" target="_blank">How-To: Vest Care 101</a> <a href="http://forum.specialopspaintball.com/index.php?showtopic=79660" target="_blank">How-To: Start Your Own Team</a> <a href="http://forum.specialopspaintball.com/index.php?showtopic=79661" target="_blank">How-To: Ghillie Mask</a>
<a href="http://forum.specialopspaintball.com/index.php?showtopic=78548" target="_blank">Silencer Laws</a> <a href="http://forum.specialopspaintball.com/index.php?showforum=61" target="_blank">Forum FAQs</a>
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#44 User is offline   MadBomber 

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Posted 20 January 2007 - 04:21 AM

I polished my A5 with the SOS Method and LOVE the results. I actually did this about a month ago; however, just stumbled on this thread. lol

I spent probably a good 45 minutes on EACH half. And I put a lotta muscle into it.

I would recommend using an SOS or Brillo pad as oppose to just steel wool. Just for the fact that the SOS and Brillo have a soap in them that aides in the lubrication of the polishing (scrubbing). It'll just make things a hair easier for ya.

One that that I didn't notice being mentioned, that I will, is REMOVE THE CYCLONE AIR LINE! lol I could see serious problems arising if you manage to get soap down in the air line. lol It's as simple as turning a screw, guys. lol

As for the WD-40 . . . Do as Monitor said. Spray it ON the PAPER TOWEL. Not onto your gun. Easier to control what is getting hit with it this way. Give it a good scrub w/ the WD-40 and I recommend going back over it again with a dry paper towel to get any excess off.

As far as oiling it again . . . Any gun oil should work. I'm a big fan of Hoppes. And, DEFINATELY run it through your air line w/ a couple dry fires. It'll better distribute the oils where they NEED to be.

I really dont think it's possible to ruin your reciever doing this. If you do, you're a moron. lol And, if you do manage to somehow mess it up, dont fret. You can replace one or both halves of the receiver on www.tippmannparts.com for like $30 (old shiny A5) or $50 (duracoat A5).

I included a before and after shot of my A5 as well.

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#45 User is offline   -={SpetsNaz}=- 

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Posted 12 February 2007 - 12:09 PM

yea i did this before. But i just used some different materials and it turned out the same. It actually helped the performance of my gun.
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