Special Ops Paintball: How-To: Polished Internals - Special Ops Paintball

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How-To: Polished Internals (A5/98)

#1 User is offline   SWATORNOT 

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Posted 24 September 2006 - 11:13 AM

How-To: Polish your Internals (Tippmann A-5/98)

I am going to show you two different methods of polishing your internal receiver halves. Please follow the directions as best as you can, and please do not rush, or “skimp” on certain steps.

The pictures show a Tippmann A5, but the procedure is very similar for that of the 98 in regards to the polishing procedure.

I am not going to break down the 98/A5 by showing the disassembly steps, I am sure you are all capable of doing that at this point, so the pictures should be pretty easy to follow with the given instructions.

Before performing this modification, take a velocity reading of your current adjustments. Do not change or alter anything while breaking the marker down for this modification. After completing this modification reassemble the marker and check your velocity number again. Most people see an increase of 5-10FPS, or in some cases even more, so keep that in mind as well…

Brillo-Method

The first method I will show you is probably the cheapest, and maybe the most available way to polish your internals. This method is the “Brillo-Method” in which you will be using nothing more then water and your common “Under the Kitchen sink” Brillo pad. This does take a bit more time and effort depending on how “dirty” the internal shells are. The best part about this method is that it eliminates the need to follow up in repeat steps.

Materials

Brillo Pads
Water (Bucket, Tub, Sink, w/e)
WD-40
Paper Towels
Time (The more time you take with this the better)



1.) Find your stash of Brillo Pads (or go to the store for some)
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2.) Fill the sink with warm water (hot/cold makes no difference) Pick up your Brillo pad and clean the inside of the receivers in a front-back/back-front method only. Follow the same movement as though the rear/front bolt were moving inside.

You will focus mainly on the areas that the front and rear bolt make contact with. You can choose to clean the area that the powertube sets as well, it makes no difference.
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3.) After you have cleaned all of the over-spray off the internal shells, rinse them clean…
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4.) Now that you have a clean and fresh operating surface it needs to be lubricated. I use WD-40 mainly to clean up the surface of any dirt that may be left; this also gives the surface lubrication…

**NOTE- WD-40 is NOT a substitute for regular marker oil. You should ONLY use the WD-40 to clean the surfaces. Upon reassembly oil the parts as you normally would during the reassembly process.
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5.) Take a paper towel and fold it in half, then in half again. Spray the paper towel with a bit of WD-40…
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6.) Rub the internal surface with the towel in a front-back type motion just as you did when scrubbing with the Brillo pad…
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7.) Now you should have a nice smooth and clean operating surface…
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<div align="center"><b><a href="http://forum.specialopspaintball.com/index.php?showtopic=79662" target="_blank">How-To: Flatline Barrel</a> <a href="http://forum.specialopspaintball.com/index.php?showtopic=79663" target="_blank">How-To: Polished Internals</a>
<a href="http://forum.specialopspaintball.com/index.php?showtopic=72814&hl=How-To" target="_blank">How-To: Vest Care 101</a> <a href="http://forum.specialopspaintball.com/index.php?showtopic=79660" target="_blank">How-To: Start Your Own Team</a> <a href="http://forum.specialopspaintball.com/index.php?showtopic=79661" target="_blank">How-To: Ghillie Mask</a>
<a href="http://forum.specialopspaintball.com/index.php?showtopic=78548" target="_blank">Silencer Laws</a> <a href="http://forum.specialopspaintball.com/index.php?showforum=61" target="_blank">Forum FAQs</a>
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#2 User is offline   SWATORNOT 

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Posted 24 September 2006 - 11:20 AM

Sanding-Method

This MUST be followed correctly to achieve optimum results. The materials needed for this method are as follows;

Materials

Sand Paper – 800, 1000, (2000 for maximum smoothness)
Scissors
WD-40
Paper Towels
Time (The more time you take with this the better)



1.) Gather up your sheets of sand paper and fold them in half…
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2.)Cut the sheet in half, then fold in half again and cut…
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3.) This is where you must pay attention. First start out with your 800 grit, fold the smaller piece in half if you must and conform the paper to the inside of the receivers. DO NOT APPLY HARD PRESSURE. You simply need to use the 800 grit paper to cut down the overspray build up. Follow the forward to back motion as though the bolt was installed while sanding. You will sand the Rear and Front bolt surfaces. If you wish you can sand the area where the power tube also sets, but is not needed…
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4.) Now that you have cleaned up the overspray it is time to pick up the 1000 grit paper. Take a small sheet, cut smaller if needed, and wrap it around the bolt (DO NOT FOLD THE PAPER FOR THIS). Do the same for the Front Bolt as well…
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Follow the forward to back movement with the bolt in the sand paper until you start to see shiny finish. Check the surface with your fingers occasionally for rough spots if needed. The reason for sanding this way with the 1000 Grit paper is to smooth out the entire running surface that contacts the bolt inside.

You may continue this process on the same way with the 2000 grit paper as well to achieve the best operating surface possible…



5.) After you have smoothed the surface out you will need to clean it up and add some lubrication. I use WD-40 mainly to clean up the surface of any dirt that may be left; this also gives the surface lubrication…

**NOTE- WD-40 is NOT a substitute for regular marker oil. You should ONLY use the WD-40 to clean the surfaces. Upon reassembly oil the parts as you normally would during the reassembly process.
Posted Image


6.) Take a paper towel and fold it in half, then in half again. Spray the paper towel with a bit of WD-40…
Posted Image


7.) Rub the internal surface with the towel in a front-back type motion just as you did when scrubbing with the Brillo pad…
Posted Image


8.) Now you should have a nice clean and extremely smooth operating surface…
Posted Image
<div align="center"><b><a href="http://forum.specialopspaintball.com/index.php?showtopic=79662" target="_blank">How-To: Flatline Barrel</a> <a href="http://forum.specialopspaintball.com/index.php?showtopic=79663" target="_blank">How-To: Polished Internals</a>
<a href="http://forum.specialopspaintball.com/index.php?showtopic=72814&hl=How-To" target="_blank">How-To: Vest Care 101</a> <a href="http://forum.specialopspaintball.com/index.php?showtopic=79660" target="_blank">How-To: Start Your Own Team</a> <a href="http://forum.specialopspaintball.com/index.php?showtopic=79661" target="_blank">How-To: Ghillie Mask</a>
<a href="http://forum.specialopspaintball.com/index.php?showtopic=78548" target="_blank">Silencer Laws</a> <a href="http://forum.specialopspaintball.com/index.php?showforum=61" target="_blank">Forum FAQs</a>
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#3 User is offline   SlamGuitar 

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Posted 24 September 2006 - 12:38 PM

not bad.... I might try the brillo pad one.
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#4 User is offline   madman32 

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Posted 08 October 2006 - 07:23 PM

what do polishing your internals really do? make the gun work smoother or what? i have tried to seach and havent found much
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#5 User is offline   JackRock 

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Posted 08 October 2006 - 07:35 PM

View Postmadman32, on Oct 8 2006, 08:23 PM, said:

what do polishing your internals really do? make the gun work smoother or what? i have tried to seach and havent found much


It tends to raise the FPS a little, and causes less wear on your drive spring. Many report a noticeable drop in recoil (little as it is).
This is my sig. There are many like it, but this one is mine. My sig is my best friend. It is my life. I must master it as I must master my life. My sig, without me, is useless. Without my sig, I am useless. I must type my sig true. I must spell better than my enemy who is trying to judge me. I must type before he ridicules me. I WILL... My sig and I know that what counts in this forum is not the rounds we fire, the noise of our burst, nor the splatter we make. We know that it is the hits that count. WE WILL HIT... Before the Admins, I swear this creed. My sig and myself are the defenders of my forum. We are the masters of our enemy. WE ARE THE SAVIORS OF MY PROFILE. - Tippmann Owner #pi
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#6 User is offline   100toakill 

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Posted 14 October 2006 - 12:31 PM

Polishing causing less internal friction, allowing smoohter, more reliable operating. This mainly effects the bolt and hammer, which move whenever you fire.
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#7 User is offline   agentM192 

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Posted 18 October 2006 - 05:26 PM

S.O.S works well too. I did it with an S.O.S the same method as you would do it with a Brillo, and it worked excellently.
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#8 User is offline   EpShot 

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Posted 18 October 2006 - 06:59 PM

sos, dremel buffing pads and aluminum polish ftw.
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#9 User is offline   Dermeister 

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Posted 21 October 2006 - 07:23 PM

Is there any way you can totally screw this up and mess up your internals. I desperately want to polish my internals, but if i screw up, im out 200 bucks.

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#10 User is offline   JackRock 

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Posted 22 October 2006 - 10:07 AM

View PostDermeister, on Oct 21 2006, 08:23 PM, said:

Is there any way you can totally screw this up and mess up your internals. I desperately want to polish my internals, but if i screw up, im out 200 bucks.


Yes, it's possible. That's why most will tell you to NOT use a power tool (such as a Dremel) with a grinding tool on it. Polishing wheels are fine. However, if you follow MONITOR's methods above, you will be fine. It would take a LOT of over polishing to ruin your marker if you stick to that method.
This is my sig. There are many like it, but this one is mine. My sig is my best friend. It is my life. I must master it as I must master my life. My sig, without me, is useless. Without my sig, I am useless. I must type my sig true. I must spell better than my enemy who is trying to judge me. I must type before he ridicules me. I WILL... My sig and I know that what counts in this forum is not the rounds we fire, the noise of our burst, nor the splatter we make. We know that it is the hits that count. WE WILL HIT... Before the Admins, I swear this creed. My sig and myself are the defenders of my forum. We are the masters of our enemy. WE ARE THE SAVIORS OF MY PROFILE. - Tippmann Owner #pi
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#11 User is offline   Dermeister 

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Posted 22 October 2006 - 05:27 PM

anything go rong if i used the brillo method???????...thats prolly eeasier.

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#12 User is offline   100toakill 

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Posted 22 October 2006 - 06:06 PM

View PostEpShot, on Oct 18 2006, 09:59 PM, said:

sos, dremel buffing pads and aluminum polish ftw.




When you polish the internals, you're polishing the inside of the frame. Nowhere in the process should the internals be touched. The only way the internals could damaged during polishing is if you tore up the metal so bad it the moving parts (bolt, hammer, etc.) grind against the inside of frame. How in God's name someone could screw up this bad is beyond me.
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#13 User is offline   ncbbh88 

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Posted 23 October 2006 - 05:36 PM

is it necessary to use brillo pads or will any old steel wool do?

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#14 User is offline   JackRock 

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Posted 23 October 2006 - 06:53 PM

View PostDermeister, on Oct 22 2006, 06:27 PM, said:

anything go rong if i used the brillo method???????...thats prolly eeasier.


Just follow the above directions. Either one.

View Postncbbh88, on Oct 23 2006, 06:36 PM, said:

is it necessary to use brillo pads or will any old steel wool do?


As long as it's a finer wool, you'll be okay. Doesn't have to be Brillo, specifically.
This is my sig. There are many like it, but this one is mine. My sig is my best friend. It is my life. I must master it as I must master my life. My sig, without me, is useless. Without my sig, I am useless. I must type my sig true. I must spell better than my enemy who is trying to judge me. I must type before he ridicules me. I WILL... My sig and I know that what counts in this forum is not the rounds we fire, the noise of our burst, nor the splatter we make. We know that it is the hits that count. WE WILL HIT... Before the Admins, I swear this creed. My sig and myself are the defenders of my forum. We are the masters of our enemy. WE ARE THE SAVIORS OF MY PROFILE. - Tippmann Owner #pi
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#15 User is offline   100toakill 

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Posted 27 October 2006 - 06:09 AM

View PostJackRock, on Oct 23 2006, 09:53 PM, said:

View PostDermeister, on Oct 22 2006, 06:27 PM, said:

anything go rong if i used the brillo method???????...thats prolly eeasier.


Just follow the above directions. Either one.

View Postncbbh88, on Oct 23 2006, 06:36 PM, said:

is it necessary to use brillo pads or will any old steel wool do?


As long as it's a finer wool, you'll be okay. Doesn't have to be Brillo, specifically.



Much sure the wool isn't too fine. I ended up using 150 grit sandpaper, and it worked great (seriously). You

read about everyone using at least 400 grit, but the 150 worked great (in conjunction with a very fine steel

wool). A very course steel wool should be even better.

I finished off with several vigorous rubbings of alternating Hoppes #9 on a paper towel and a dry wash

cloth (cleans off excess dirt). I ended with a rubbing the insides with (fishing) reel grease. Oh, and when

using any lube, WIPE OFF ALL EXCESS, since it will attract dirt.
100toakill says: HAIL TRUE METAL
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