Special Ops Paintball: Field building guide. - Special Ops Paintball

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Field building guide. A callaborative Rate Topic: ***** 7 Votes

#61 User is offline   Sniper Jedi 

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Posted 29 October 2006 - 10:17 PM

View PostGurnzee, on Oct 25 2006, 01:35 PM, said:

I have been doing research on this for quite a while, I love the stuff you have here! here is an idea that I had thought of incorporating into my own field. I have 80 acres of land, and a track hoe, so digging is real easy for me. Tell me what you think.

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I would love to be able to have it so that you could be ontop and inside of this bunker would be fun!


You would want as little dirt on the top as possible, in order to make it saffer. If it collapses, you want to be a little dirty, and brusied, not buried alive. This site is millitary grade, and has a section on building sniper locations...a few of which look like what you drew. http://www.globalsecurity.org/military/lib...3-10/index.html
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#62 User is offline   Gurnzee 

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Posted 31 October 2006 - 02:32 PM

View Postdarthtater, on Oct 29 2006, 06:34 PM, said:

Our course has a sort of tower. We call it the castle. It's kind of scrappy looking but we didn't spend a cent on it, just a lot of work. The pic in the middle is from the other side. The pic on the right is looking from the left to the right on the bottom floor. We have a couch on the second level!



The castle looks cool, but there is one word that keeps popping into my head when I think of adding it to my field... Lawsuit. I think if you are going to do a castle type thing like this, just make sure you are using good and safe materials. some of the metal in this castle looks pretty rough!
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#63 User is offline   Harrie_Bunyuon 

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Posted 31 October 2006 - 02:59 PM

I haven't posted in here in a while and will add some stuff later on next month.




View Postdarthtater, on Oct 29 2006, 08:34 PM, said:

Our course has a sort of tower. We call it the castle. It's kind of scrappy looking but we didn't spend a cent on it, just a lot of work. The pic in the middle is from the other side. The pic on the right is looking from the left to the right on the bottom floor. We have a couch on the second level!



Hey man, for not spending a cent thats pretty good. I'd be proud.
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#64 User is offline   darthtater 

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Posted 31 October 2006 - 04:07 PM

That is true except our field is on personal property and everybody has signed a waiver before they can play.
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#65 User is offline   tr33_hugg3r 

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Posted 01 November 2006 - 05:31 AM

Wow man your tower looks really cool, but also really dangerous. I see rusted nails sticking out of boards and the ladders, especially the one going up the tree. hope whoever goes up the tree thinks really hard before they do it. anyway nice.

This post has been edited by t3rd_hugg3r: 01 November 2006 - 05:33 AM

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#66 User is offline   Gurnzee 

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Posted 01 November 2006 - 10:20 AM

Since you brought up the issue of waivers, I have been told multiple things about thier relevance in a court of law. some say they are the best thing in the world, while others have said they are absolutely useless, and dont hold any water when something happens. If you are building a field, especially with some of the dreams we have posted in this thread, the issue of safety, or lack thereof, will come into play. What do you do when building a field, to prevent issues? how do you build a waiver? what is the antithesis of this post? what do I NOT do when building a field?
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#67 User is offline   Roschili 

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Posted 13 November 2006 - 06:42 PM

good point gurnzee...any body got some answers for us?
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#68 User is offline   Redlight 

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Post icon  Posted 30 November 2006 - 12:53 AM

Hi guys,

I'm NOT a lawyer, so this is my opinion - DO NOT TAKE THIS AS GOSPEL TRUTH!. :panzer: CONSULT AN EXPERT BEFORE YOU BEGIN! :excl:

Many of the people I know that have some dealing with waivers say that they are good at preventing law suits only if you remember that the due dilligence to provide a safe environment falls on the property owner. If they build something that isn't safe, they possibly open themselves up to a lawsuit.

Waivers are more designed around the person who trips on his own feet and breaks an ankle. This person would not have any recourse against the field owner if he signed a waiver.

If the castle you have build is supported by a single 2X4 as it's main joist (flooring beam) and the owner knows that this isn't safe and goes against normal construction practices, the waiver wouldn't be worth the paper it's written on.

The only reason I'm addressing this is because, just like the insurance discussion earlier in this thread, this information is vital to anyone building or helping build a field.

Once again I'm going to emphasize that I AM NOT A LAWYER. Spend a few minutes talking to a local lawyer or visit your local legal aid office and ask a few questions. Maybe even invite some lawyers out to play. It might be your only chance to shoot :ghillie: a lawyer :ghillie: and get away with it!!!!

Just kidding! You never know though, they may get hooked on the game just like people from every other walk of life.

The more people playing the game, the better the game will be!

Have a great day guys!


P.S. This is an awesome thread for anyone looking to build or upgrade a field. Keep up the Great Work everyone!
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#69 User is offline   Harrie_Bunyuon 

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Posted 10 December 2006 - 11:15 AM

Well heres some photos from Saluda River Paintball... in SC. The owner, myself , and 2 friends finished it yesterday. (Half was already built) Sorry I can't go into details on how its made. I'll let the pictures explain.

(Sorry if the pictures aren't the best.. my camera's flash doesn't work anymore..)


This is Fort Thunder:

Northeast Corner :

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North Wall:

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Northwest Corner:

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West Wall:

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Southwest Corner:

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South Wall:

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East Wall: (Front Entrance)

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#70 User is offline   TDP 

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Posted 13 December 2006 - 01:23 PM

Hey Sherrif, one idea to make a film is with a digital camera that takes video clips. I use mine when I go out to play at our local field because I am actually trying to make a paintball video of just different days and places. Just something that I can watch on those days the field is closed. I am also going to put it on my myspace when it is finished. But back to the point. If you have Windows Movie Maker on your computer then all you have to do is film the clips on the camera, transfer them to your computer, then load them into Movie Maker. It has some cool editing features and you can add pics and music into your movie.

If I can, I will get the beginning of my movie on here sometime soon so you can get a feel of what you can do.

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#71 User is offline   Smakman 

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Posted 28 December 2006 - 06:41 PM

Some pics from Smak Zone Paintball.

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Those are pics of 3 of our 5 major bases,The Outpost, Satcom, and Fire Base Echo.
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#72 User is offline   Evil Sin 

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Posted 03 January 2007 - 11:33 PM

One word...sweet. Been thinking of making a field. If so, great info to help out.

Nice work peeps!
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#73 User is offline   DRAGONCRXLS 

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Posted 07 January 2007 - 08:55 PM

If you have access to 5.6 million old tires like i do than you can use them to build a more permanant structure by laying them flat side by side and filling them with dirt then repeating for the second row only offset kinda like legos then anchoring them together somehow. I have seen a documentary on this on like discovery or TLC i dont remember but they built an entire house, anyway probably used a series of steaks to hold it all together
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#74 User is offline   tribe 

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Posted 09 January 2007 - 07:33 PM

View PostSheriff Matt, on Aug 8 2006, 10:54 AM, said:

Well I just thought I would set out to make a thread for anyone out there thinking about making their own field, or wanting to know what works well for making bunkers and things like that.

First of all I'll start out with woodsball in mind, and how to setup a good woodsball field.

INSURANCE! - When starting out before you even get it in your head that you want to make your own field, you've got to decide whether or not you're going to set it up for public use or just for private use. The difference being, if you're going to open it up for public use then you're going to need insurance. This is not one of those "Well I'll get it eventually." things. YOU NEED INSURANCE. If you're going private than it is not as big of a deal but is still recommended.

These guys offer the lowest premium I have found(if you qualify).
http://www.paintball-apl.com/

Here's another you can check out:
http://www.paintballinsurance.com/

If you don't have anyone employed by your field/store that has more than 3 years experience and a certification, your insurance premiums are going to be pretty high. The policy you get might be kind of limiting as well. This can be a big factor in deciding whether opening a field is right for you. Insurance is expensive but neccesary.

For the insurance application you're pretty much gonna have to have all your stuff together, including a map of the field and pictures of your fill station, chronograph area, signs(posted "Goggles On" "Caution: Paintball Field" etc.), and safety zone(has to be netted off or out of range(300 feet).

They're also going to want to know how many people you'll have every year and how much your going to take in monthly and yearly from:

Entry Fees/Field Fees
Paintball/air sales
Concessions sales
Store sales

You'll also need to look into getting a business license or tax ID number if you wan't anyone to take you seriously. You'll also want to see if your field is zoned for paintball. If you're in a residential area you might have to talk to your neighbors as well and kind of get their blessing.

WAIVERS AND RELEASE FORMS - You've got to have them. Usually the insurance company provides them after you get everything processed but it's also nice just to have them if you're running a private field. Even if you only play with friends. Friends have sued friends before, that's what we learn from judge judy and jerry springer.

Here is a sample waiver/release form:
Release form front

Release form back

COSTS - Initial costs can be pretty high. As far as prices go:

Gas/Fill station (approx. 160 Fills): $300 to start $150/Month
Paintballs(20 cases): Around $700/Month
Insurance: $310/Month or $3700/Year
Netting(8'x300'): $1200/Enough to cover an acre of land or so

Your looking at maybe an initial starting cost of around $5900 Dollars if you pay your insurance premium in full. That doesn't include rental kits. As far as rental kits go there have been a lot of different threads on it, but I do think that tippmanns work the best. You can find field setup kits around on the net(like 10 full kits for 1500 or so) but whatever you go with you're going to need a full set of equipment for each kit(Mask, Marker, Tank, Squeegee, Barrel Sleeve).

If you don't start out with rental kits there are still a few things you NEED to have at your field, either for purchase or rent like:

Barrel sleeves
Paint
Air(Co2 or Compressed air)
Water

That brings me to my next topic:
FOOD - As far as food goes...well you don't NEED it, but it's always nice to have at least some chips available or something. One thing you will need though is water. At least a hose for people to drink out of. People need water though and you can't get stuck with someone getting heat stroke and then think "Oh crud, I wish we had some water around."

Along the same lines as food is trashcans. You're going to make sure you have pleanty of trashcans and places for people to put all their waste.

BATHROOMS - You don't need them, but unless you want people releiving themselves on the field or on your car you gotta think about it.

FIELD PAINT ONLY

As far as field paint goes, it's a good idea to keep it "Field Paint Only" just so you know what's being shot on the field. Another reason is PROFIT. This can be one of your biggest money makers. Field paint can be anything though, I would just offer something quality for the high end players and then some bargain stuff for the people who dont really care.



Now onto actual field construction:

I'll start out with the BOUNDARIES:
Make sure you walk the field A LOT to get a feel for where you want things to be. It's a good idea to put the boundaries at least 150 feet or so from the staging area. I would put the target range and chrono area right next to the field just for convenience sake.

The boundaries need to be clearly defined, either with paintball netting or caution tape or whatever, as long as it is noticeable. You don't want people wondering off the field and gettting lost or hurt. When making the boundaries look at where you plan on making the main bases and bunkers and try and go right up behind them. After you get your field boundaries marked you're going to have to post "GOGGLES ON" signs at every entry/exit point so everyone gets incesantly reminded to keep their goggles on. At the exit points "BARREL SLEEVES ON" signs need to be posted as well.

After you get the boundaries set up you'll need to start thinking about bunker construction.

BUILDING BUNKERS
(this is taken from a post I made earlier this week.)
Definitely need to know what the terrain is like to come up with any sort of design ideas specific to the environment. Although there are some basic things you can do that would be relevant to any style or terrain. As mentioned above, with the main bunkers set as the "Last Defense" or the main base, I would back them up against the boundaries on both sides. This helps to keep the defense manageable, and makes less work for building things.

To start with I would lay out boundaries and figure out where I want bases and bunkers, then I would maybe set up a few "lean to" bunkers which depending on the environment could just be some plywood leaned against trees, or something else that doesn't involve much work and is semi-temporary. Then I would play on the field a few times and get a feel for what needs to be changed and how it needs to be changed.

A lot of the time you won't even have to do any extensive "building" or digging because of the terrain layout. Like on our field there are pleanty of trees and stumps. All I had to do was dig out a little bit and that was it.

Digging is your friend. My preference is to build bunkers that have 3 walls that are maybe three feet high. Then I dig them out so they're tapered out the back. At the deepest they're around 3 feet by a couple feet wide, then they gradually go up to level so nobody falls in them on accident(and makes it easier to slide into or crawl out of).

I found it easier to find areas of natural cover and build on that. Like if you've got 3 trees about 7 feet apart that form a sort of v, rip an 8'x4' plywood board in half so you have 2'x8' and make two walls that form a v. Then dig out 3 feet. Also in a few of the bunkers on our field, in that sort of situation I would cut the board into 2'x4' sections and leave about a 4" gap in the middle of the wall. It seems like suicide but is very handy. On our field I stuck to a one bunker base(one BIG bunker) and used 2 smaller forward bunkers for main defense. Then I made 2-3 more smaller forward bunkers/dug-outs at strategic positions/angles, so you could start up in a forward position and have pleanty of fall back points before you hit the "alamo" stage of the game(if you start getting over run). I also forgot to mention that if you're nailing things make sure you eliminate all protruding nails or screws so no one gets stuck. This is for a smaller forward bunker. You can change it up depending on what's around(like trees and bushs or what not. Basically all you need is a hammer, some nails, some posts, and some 8 foot sections of 1"x12" boards. You'll need 2 or 3 full 8' sections and 4-6 4' sections of the 1by12 depeding on how high you want the walls. The walls pictured would only be approximately 2 feet high, but you could add another foot to that if you want. The top board in the front is angled back slightly so the two front posts will have to be cut a foot shorter than the others. This is so you can nail the top board into the top of the posts and lean it back against the other two support posts for the sides. The two corners are just 2-3 foot sections of the 1by12 cut to cover the corners. What I would do is sort of lean em at a 45 degree angle or so and nail the tops down so you get some cover but can still see out the corners. When digging out the bunkers make sure you stay at least a foot or more away from the walls of the bunker(I like to give it about a foot and a half) just to cut down on the dirt falling back in, and also to give the posts a good bit of solid ground so they don't start falling over after extended periods of use and time. *Note there is about a 2 inch gap between the top board in the front and the bottom boards. Just thought I would it clear that it [i]was[/i] intentional and not just a quick photoshop job(although it was a quick job). I'll try and get some more diagrams up but I hope that helps a little. The same design technique can be applied to the bigger bunkers as well. [img]http://www.clcpollockpines.com/paintball/images/smallerbunkerdiagram.jpg

In this diagram I just tried to give you a few examples of how to use trees to make simple but effective bunkers. You can dig them out or not depending on what your preference is:

Posted Image

The easiest way to make a bunker is just use some 3/4" or even 1/2" plywood and nail it to trees. In the diagram I say 3' by 3' sections of plywood but the dimensions can be whatever you want. Since these bunkers weren't designed with camping in mind they don't have any "windows" or openings to see out of. They are just small enough to where you can snap out of the sides. Some could be designed as "Standing" bunkers with walls high enough to where you can stand behind them or others could be dug out for ducking into on the run.

In one of the examples there's a set of semi-staggered trees with boards nailed at differen't angles. This is a nifty setup that I had implemented on our field that works rather well for a forward bunker if you're looking for an advancement bunker and you know where the enemy is. The angles of the boards would need to be adjusted after you play a few times though to get the feel for what works best.

With the dug out tree bunker, I've found that if you stack up layers of log rounds(1' sections of logs) it works really well to keep the dirt walls in place. You can put down a layer of log rounds then a layer of dirt, then another layer of log rounds etc.


Here is a VERY simple diagram of a three bunker base setup:
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Miscelaneous objects work well for bunkers as well. In this diagram I illustrated how you can use plywood or pallets to make a good triangle type bunker that is easy to collapse and move around:

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In this diagram the hinges are placed on two edges of the triangle to allow it to fold up flat. It's just as easily made with pallets. All you need are some screws and basic hinges. These bunkers can be made for about 20 dollars each depending on what materials you use.

I also illustrated how you can make use of old used tires. If you can find a good amount of them you can stack them up. Also you may want to consider standing some up on the top row. Old tractor tires(the huge ones) could also be just as easily used if you can find them(and move them).

Here's some more misc object bunkers:

Posted Image

In this one I showed how you can utilize old carpet and some old 50 gallon barrels.

I might put together a quick diagram to illustrate how to place bunkers to best suit defense/attack situations and things like that.

CLEARING PATHS - Make sure you have clear paths on your field for easy access to bunkers. A lot of times when I'm on defense I'll roam between 2 or 3 different bunkers. When the opfor is coming up on you, it sucks to have to look at the ground to make sure you're not going to trip over branches and stuff.

Posted Image

In this diagram I just laid out quickly what your bunkers should look like(the white area represents a cleared path.) It also helps to cut down on the CRUNCH SMASH CRUNCH when you're trying to be stealthy.

Modified old picnic tables work really well too:

Here's what it looks like from behind:
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It's dug out a good 3 feet deep.

Here's from the front:
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and here's from inside looking out:
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That's one of the bunkers we have on our field.

I'll try and add more diagrams as far as boundary placement and trenches and things like that later.

For right now that's about all I can think of for woodsball fields. Later on I'll try and update it and add more. If anyone has anything they think should be added please let me know and I'll try and get it in there.

*As far as speedball fields go, I'm not a huge speedball person so maybe we can get some help with advice for speedball field setup and bunker placement.





alot of good info here ...im new to the paintball and we are wanting to build a feild since there are none around here ....thanks for all the good tips
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#75 User is offline   night_raiders 

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Posted 12 January 2007 - 08:12 PM

uuuhhhh..... sheriff do you have any other good ideas or info?
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