Most of you know me as NinjaoftheNight79. My name is Jason Britton, and I live in Illinois. I have taken a lot time to learn how an Automag works. Ever since I got my mag over christmas of 2005, I have been in love with it. I have studied it, charts, web pages, an many sources to find mass amounts of information. Now I have decided to share my knowledge with you all. Please try to understand how much time I have put into this, how much work it has been, and how much this will help you understand Automags. Please do take the time to read the whole post, and leave a comment when you are done if you have time. I would greatly appreciate more response. Also, check back when you see new posts. Every time I edit the page, I leave a announcement comment.
First, in order to better understand the internals of the automag, I want you to look at these diagrams. Take a moment to study them a bit. The first diagram shows the actual cycling of the marker (in slow motion). The second diagram is so I can specifically point things out within this explanation. The third diagram shows the air flow from the valve after regulation all the way up to the actual firing of the marker. The fourth picture (in a link because it is large) is just a nice 3D picture of everything for better reference just to see exactly what the pieces look like.
(Note:All sets of two pink dots across from eachother represents and O-ring. All sets of green lines represents a spring.)
How the Old School Mag Works
For some of you, understanding how an Automag truly works may be a little complicated. When I first started, I felt overwhelmed. After a while, I finally got it. It was so difficult because nobody was there to explain it to me. Learning how these markers work will make a lot of things work a lot easier, including diagnosing what you think may be wrong when a problem occurs. I want to share this wonderful information with you. This is an explanation of the original Automag, or any Automag with a Classic Valve. All Automags work very similar to this, but some parts are slightly different. If you skipped the diagrams, go back now. You will need them most for this section. Anyway, why don't we get into this?
When you gas up your marker, you tank provides air that goes into a hole in the side of the marker into the chamber marked #1 (all numbers are on the second diagram). This is the chamber that holds air before it is regulated. Notice that it contains a spring, and a red pin (the regulator valve) to the left that goes all the way to the dark gold regulator piston on the left. That first spring, regular valve , and regulator system (the regulator piston an its spring and adjuster to the left) all work together to regulate the air that leaves that chamber down to around 375psi, +- depending on you regulators setting (Note: On all Automags, you adjust the velocity by adjusting the regulator). In the next chamber, air goes two ways. First, it goes left into the regulator, where it goes into a release valve. If you have the psi/velocity set to high, the air pushes the valve back against a spring. If pushed back to far, it will vent air out the back. This prevents you from adjusting the velocity to high.
Back before the regular system, air also goes up and around the chamber marked #1, and fills into the chamber and area marked #2. That area is called the On/Off valve. It lives up to its name. (Note: The On/Off valve is the little round piece on the bottom of the valve when the valve is removed.) When air goes down to #2, it pushes down a pin (as you can see in the animated diagram). When the pin is pushed down, it moves part #4 (the sear). As you can see, when the sear is pushed down, it see-saws on the red pin, and the right side moves upward. This latches the bolt in place and sets the trigger (also seen better in the animation). With the pin pushed down, that regulated air can freely flow into the dump chamber (#3). That air pushes on the bolt's power piston (#6) in the power tube tip, but since the bolt is latched by the sear, it does not move. The O-ring held by the spacer (#5) also keeps the air from flowing around the power piston. When the air is this far (all happens in a split second), the Automag is ready to be fired.
When you pull the trigger, the sear moves once more, but this time it moves in the opposite way. This will do two things one after the other. First it pushes the On/Off pin up, closing off the airflow into the dump chamber (#3). Then, it releases the bolt. From here, the air pressure in dump chamber (#3) pushes the bolt forward against the bolt's spring (green parts wrapped around the bolt). Once the end of the power piston (#6) moves past the O-ring on the spacer (#5), the air is released onto the paintball, and the paintball is sent down the barrel. After all the air is gone, the bolt has no pressure keeping it pushed forward, so the bolt's spring resets the bolt (pushes it back to its original position). From here, nothing will happen until you release the trigger.
As soon as you release the trigger, air pushes the On/Off's pin back down, and the whole process is repeated, and then the marker is ready to be fired again.
Now you may ask, how does this help you at all? If something ever messes up, or you do something wrong, you will be able to determine what is going wrong. This will be explained a little better later in this post. Also, you get to walk away knowing your marker, and exactly how it works. It gives you that warm and fuzzy feeling inside.
(Note: This section covers all Automags with a Classic valve. This section explains all other Automags with other all other valves too, but does not cover everything about the other valves. If you have any valve that is newer than the Classic valve, find that valve in the Upgrades section (labeled "New Upgrades That Changed The Automag") to find out what has changed over the previous design.
Field-Stripping Your Automag (written by: Soldat)
Just thought Id add this so people can see how easy it is to field strip, dissasemble, and clean, then reassemble mags.
First, remove the rear thumb screw, then slide the valve off the body:
Then remove the bolt by sliding it off, and unscrewe the valve halves:
Then make sure you oil everything:
Now, just reverse the process and your mag is good to go.
(Note from: NinjaoftheNight79): I give full credit to Soldat for this section. The only thing I would like to add to this section is that before sliding the valve out of the body, you will have to rotate the valve clockwise slightly. If your valve will not come out and will not rotate then it is because the On/Off pin is down. To correct this, apply forward pressure on the valve, then pull the trigger all the way back. Also, when you have the marker field stripped or fully dissasembled, you should clean off any old oil or gunk inside any the marker before oiling it again. (Note: All Automags (as far as I know of), regardless of valve, all field strip the same.)
To Chronograph your Automag
Chronoing your Automag may sound simple, but there are some things to take into consideration. Unlike most markers, the first shot after each gas up and velocity change should not be chronoed (or if chronoed, not considered as the actually velocity). You must give the marker a few shots to let the regulator springs, seal, and valve pin seat correctly. One-three shots should work. After that, chrono your marker as you would any other marker. To adjust velocity, there is an allen hole in the back of the regulor/valve. Put the allen key provided with the marker (or any correctly fitting allen key) in that hole and turn it. Then give it another one-three shots to let the regulator seat again. Repeat until you find your desired velocity. If air starts venting out of the back (as stated before), your velocity is too high, and it has tripped the release valve. Turn the velocity down, and the air will stop venting.
(Note: Another thing to consider about chronographing your Automag is what valve you have. This section covers the Classic valve. This section is true for all other valves too, but does not cover everything for the other valves. If you have any valve that is newer than the Classic valve, find that valve in the Upgrades section (labeled "New Upgrades That Changed The Automag").
The Body of an Automag
In this section I am going to talk a little bit about the full body of the Automag. As you know, the Valve and bolt are the main internal parts of the Automag marker. The Automag paintball marker is made up three main body parts. Without these three parts the marker would not function properly as AGD has produced them to function. These parts are the Mainbody, Rail, and Gripframe.
The first part is the Mainbody. As opposed to the whole body, this is the very top part of the marker. It is what holds the valve, and is what the barrel and feedneck are screwed on to. This part can be changed with other bodies, either made by AGD or other aftermarket companies. Mainbodies vary in materials it is composed of, size, weight, shape, and even function. Most older mainbodies are made of stainless steel. New mainbodies are anodized aluminum. Most bodies are standard round bodies that make the Valve and Body appear to be all one unit. The Tac body (which is on the Tac-One) has picatinny rails to mount sights. Other aftermarket mainbodies, such as those made by Deadlywind, are made with a more appealing concept look like those of most high end electronic markers. To see an AGD mainbody for yourself, visit this link.
The second part is the Rail. The rail is the part right under the mainbody. While it may seem very insignificant, it is a very important part of the marker. It holds the mainbody to the gripframe, and holds the trigger mechanism (#4 on the first diagram). It also holds on the foregrip. Just like the body, AGD and other companies make various rails. To see what a rail looks like, look at any picture of any Automag and look at the part right below the mainbody.
The Gripframe is the last major body part of the Automag paintball marker. Just as any gripframe on any other marker, main function is to be held, and give you a great point of contact on the marker. If you think this grip frame is always just like any other grip frame, you are wrong. AGD made gripframes come in many different shapes. The most common are single and double trigger grips. The less common ones are the Y-Grip and Z-Grip. To learn more about these, find them in the next section. To get a good view of the AGD made gripframes, check them out here.
Newer Upgrades That Changed The Automag
RT and ReTro Valves
These valves were made to upgrade the speed that an Automag is capable of by upgrading the recharge rate of the valve. The difference between these two valves is that the RT valve came stock on the RT Automags, and the ReTro Valve was an upgrade RT valve made to fit the Classic Automag. Supposedly, they function in the same exact way as the X-Valve, but are made of steel and do not come with the LVL 10. While it is true that these are made of steel and do not come stock with a LVL 10 bolt, the speed of an X-Valve may definitely be faster, for any manual of a marker with an X-Valve will tell you that it recharges so fast that it needs to be chronoed a certain way, while the manuals for the RT Automags do not mention any true difference in chronographing. This tells me that the X-Valve probably does recharge faster.
Also, with the RT and ReTro valves, only some can use a ULE Trigger Pull kit. If you remove the On/Off on your RT or ReTro valve, and there is only one O-Ring, then the ULT will not work without modification, but if there are two O-Rings then your valve does not require any modification to use the Ultra Light Trigger Pull Kit. If your RT/ReTro valve has one O-Ring, it can be modified. To get your Valve modified contact Brad at Paintball Maxx (Texas): 713-983-9190, Woody at Woody's Pro Shop (Oregon): 514-476-5339, or TunaMan (not his real name) at Tunamart's Webpage (contact him by his e-mail, available on the webpage.
The X Valve is pretty different than the Classic Valve. The Classic Valve recharges slower than the X-Valve. This means a marker with the X-Valve will shoot faster than the Classic. The X-Valve is also very strange in comparison to the Classic Valve, for at a normal preset input of 850 psi (that of most high pressure tanks) will be at max velocity when fired fastest. The first shots and shots at lower speeds will have less velocity. This is because it recharges so fast that the valve temporarily heats up. As many know, hotter air = higher pressure. This means that when fired fast, it will have a higher velocity. To chronograph an X-Valved Automag with and input of 850 or higher, you have to shoot it once and keep the trigger held in (which keeps the On/Off in an off position). Then you set it up on the chronograph, still holding the trigger, release the trigger, and shoot again as fast as possible. This gives it the effect of shooting at your fastest speed. At an input pressure of 800 psi, the Automag is good for slow shooting and fast shooting. It will be about equal consistency, but it will take a longer string of paint to get the valve heated up for that equal consistency. At an input pressure, the X-valve works like a Classic Valve. At lower speeds, it shoots very consistently, but as you start to shoot faster, the consistency starts go down, you get shootdown, and it may not fire correctly.
Also, do not run an RT or X Valve on CO2 no matter how you run it. It does not matter if you have 4 Palmers Stabilizers, a Remote, and a Syphone tube. Quoted from Pneumagger on AO (props to Cyrus-the-Virus for finding this information):
Take the classic valve for example. It has a very fast regulator on it, easily one of fastest. However the regulator is not the choke point in a classic mag. The two resricting factors are the on/off flow and the sear operation of the mag. The on/off in a mag has a lot of minor headlosses and flow restrictions and thus limits the speed at which about 400psi air enters the dump chamber. Also, the mag only recharges it's dump chamber when bolt (and thus sear) is in the locked position allowing the on off to open. This means that a Mag only gets a fraction of the time during the full cycle to recharge it's dump...when the bolt finally returns...unlike other poppet and spool markers where the dump is continually recharging. These two factors coupled together only give the classic valve about a 12bps rate of fire before shootdown. Replacing the on off with a better flowing on off will only get you to about 14bps before shootdown...once again limited by the short recharge time alotted during the cycle.
So Tom Kaye ( ) being the genious he is saw these two things and made 2 very small adjustments to the mag operation while keeping the sear operation giving the retro valve reverse compatibility with older mags ( )
1) He made a better flowing on/off and added stepped pin so the mag had reactivity. Running unregged air to the dump allows the stepped pin to have a light pull and a heavy return due to the pressure acting on different areas throughout the trigger pull length.
2) He allowed the regulator to "slam fill" the dump chamber with unregulated air to an aproximate psi limit, then the reg kicks in and tops off the dump chamber to the set psi limit. Using unregged air to fill the dump chamber allows the air to push by flow restrictions faster, meaning the short recharge time of when the bolt is only back is not much of an issue. This operation of the Xvalve/RTvalve/Retrovalve/Emagvalve/etc is the reason mags LOVE higher pressure...the higher the pressure, the faster it recharges. However, this is simultaneously the reason it cannot handle CO2 with a practical volume of shots. Slam filling a dump chamber with unregged co2 (even if it is pure gas) causes a super fast local decompression within the valve orrifaces. This decompression happens at faster and from higher pressures (750-800psi) than in a normal mag (350-400psi) causing liquid co2 to form plus freezing of orings. (this is because of Co2's relatively high melting temerature and phase daiagrams - you would need an absolutly unobtainably rediculuous amount of pressure to get air/N2 to condensate) This means antisyphoning, Ex-chambers, remotes, and even Stabilizers cannot effect what happens inside the valve to the rapidly decompressing Co2 unless you run less pressure to the valve like a classic valve (350psi) giving the Co2 less decompression to the dump chamber. Then you easily get shootdown again and the xvalve works like crud and you're shooting a $250 classic valve again.
Long story short...You can shoot co2 through an xvalve. It will work and will fire paintballs just as nicely. But If you fire more than 1-2 shots a second, the mag just gets too cold too fast and starts tearing up all the moving orings. I have seen a stock class xvalve mag that ran co2 just fine, but then it was only shooting in stock class very slowly. I used to shoot my older xvalve with Co2 (very very slowly) just to fool around with in the back yard when I had no air. But it would still ocasionally freeze up shooting like 1-2 bps.
What does this mean im much simpler terms? This means that what goes in doesn't matter if it is CO2. Even if it is pure CO2 gas, when the valve recharges (or refills) the dump chamber, it does it so fast that some of the CO2 will turn back into liquid CO2, and then fry the internal O-rings.
Also, some may not have caught it, but the section labeled (1) has explained what I have always wondered, and that is how the RT and X-Valve have Reactive Triggers. Basically, air is pushing the On/Off pin, which causes the trigger to be set (as is on all mags). With the newer On/Off pin stepped (with differant surfaces in certain places), the air from the dump chamber will actually push against the air coming in. This doesn't negate all pressure, but makes it easier. When the trigger is full pulled, the bolt it released, and the dump chamber is emptied, that air is no longer there to push, causing the pressure from the valve to push your fingers forward (if you are not pulling the trigger too hard). It then refills the dump chanber, and allows you to pull the trigger lightly again.
Ninja Notes: Credit for researching CO2 in X Valve theories goes to Cyrus-the-Virus. Thank you much very man. I couldn't have done it without ya. You got me a lot of valuable info from Pneumagger. I have always wondered about this stuff, but just never knew who to ask. Great job, you have helped expand my Automag knowledge.
LVL 10 Bolt
The LVL 10, as you probably know, is an anti-chop. It works very similar to the old bolt, but a little different. First off, the Power Piston is smaller and the Power Tube Tip's O-Ring is smaller and tighter. The diameter affects the forward pressure of the bolt because there is less of a surface for the air to push. Second, the spring that holds the bolt back is a heavier spring.
The air pressure and springís force have a see-saw effect. Itís like a scale. You put a set amount of weight on one side, and the same amount on the other, and they balance. With the smaller Power Piston, the pressure going out is reduced, and with the heavier spring, it is reduced even more. You would think this would affect the shooting in some way, but after the Power Piston is completely out of the Power Tube tip, all the air is released, and air is released just as before.
When fed incorrectly, the ball stops the bolt. This is where the new hole in the power piston comes in. When the marker fires and that hole proceeds past the O-Ring, a small amount of air leaves the bolt. This little bit does not affect efficiency very much. When a ball stops the bolt, the air (that would be behind the shot) vents out of that hole and down the barrel instead.
The LVL 10 does require some adjustments though. It comes with 3 different spring (for different bolt pressures, used for different paint; if using tourney paint that has a thinner shell, a heavier spring must be used). It also comes with nine different O-ring Carriers. This is a new part that holds the smaller O-ring. They come in different sizes because this system is actually very sensitive, even to the very small change of size between each batch of o-rings. The carrier corrects this problem by squeezing the O-ring just right to function properly. It also has little metal rings called shims. They go between the tip Power Tube Tip and the O-Ring Carrier, are used to adjust when the bolt starts venting air out to reset the bolt. These adjust it very little, but with how sensitive the system is, these adjustments do matter. If the wrong amount of shims is in place, a ball stops the bolt, but it will just stop the bolt and not reset. These reasons are why the LVL 10 needs adjustments.
If tuning your own bolt, first take any carrier, and put you o-ring inside it, and them put is O-ring first on the Power Piston of the bolt. If the carrier is so big, the O-ring will slide right on and move freely. If it is too tight, it will take to much force to push it on. Keep adjusting until you find the one that makes the O-ring fit snug on the Power Piston. Put the Power Tube tip together without shims, install it, and gas up your marker. If there is a leak, move the front of the bolt with your finger. If the sound changes, itís a leak. Go put one smaller size. First check to see what size your O-Ring Carrier is. I have come up with a simple system of doing so. On each carrier, there are lines and dots showing its size. To find what carrier you are looking at, think of it this way. Each line is equal to 1 and each dot is equal to .5 . Use this and a simple addition problem to figure it out. If your Carrier O-ring is 3 (for example), then you must go down .5 . Do so by finding the carrier with the rings that equal 2.5 . It would have two lines and a dot. Gas up your marker again, and make sure there are no leaks. If there are no leaks, it is ready to move on to the next step.
This next step is shim adjustment. Put a squeegee in the feedneck and down to the breach (where a ready paintball would sit). This simulates a ball that would jam the LVL 10. Pull the trigger. The bolt will jam, and nothing you do with the trigger will reset it. As previously stated, shims control when (in the firing process) the bolt starts venting air out of the small ventilation hole. It does this by adjusting when the ventilation hole passes the O-ring. It does so because there is a spring a few pieces behind the carrier (not visible in the diagrams at the top of the page, but is between the green #5 and the O-ring to the left, approximately somewhere in the red part). When a shim is added, the Carrier gets pushed back farther, and the ventilation hole passes the O-ring sooner. In order to start out, remove the power tube tip and add two shims,. making sure they lie flat. A bent shim is no good. Put the Power Tube Tip back on, then try the same process with the squeegee. It should now work fine, but if not, add another shim. Repeat this process until it resets properly.
The final adjustment needed is to adjust the springs. You should have three springs, two new and your old one. First start off by using the new gray spring. Try shooting your marker. It may not shoot at all. If not, adjust your PSI up until it will. If air is venting from the back of your marker or the marker needs to go over you local field's FPS limit in order to fire correctly, then that bolt is too strong for you marker. This doesn't mean you marker is bad, this just goes back to the see-saw effect. The pressure behind the bolt is not enough to push the bolt forward without exceeding local field limits. This doesn't mean that you wonít be able to use brittle paint, it actually means it will take a less powerful spring. This can be done in a few ways. The recommended way would be to switch to the next spring down (the other spring that came with the bolt), and try that. If it works at a field legal speed and is not venting air out of the valve, then you are using the right spring. The red spring is the spring that is most often the one needed. Also note that when you first switch to a new spring, it will need broken in. It does not take long to break in a spring, but can easily anger you if you don't know what is happening. If you switch to a new spring, and your bolt starts jamming, its not that the spring is a problem, itís that the spring simply needs to be broken in.
There may be one problem. If you are using brittle tourney paint, the red spring may chop balls. If the large spring will not work, there is only one way to fix this. You will have to cut off of the large gray spring. Cut down the bolt (wire cutters or bolt cutters should work) very little, and try it until it works correctly at legal speeds. Never cut both ends, and always put the cut end on the bolt first so the bolt first so the good end sticks out. One problem with this is that you are risking the marker not firing some of the time. If you have problems with this, sacrifice a little bit of anti-chop by cutting the spring down a bit more. Do this until it runs fine, but always remember that you can cut the bolt all you want, but you cannot add on to it.
ULE Trigger Pull Kit
The ULE Trigger Pull Kit (also referred to as the Ultra Light Trigger Pull kit, or ULT) makes the trigger pull lighter. What it does is replace the stock On/Off assembly with a two part ULT On/Off assembly. It is two parts because it too is adjustable with shims (of a different size). This ULT piece, in comparison to the old On/Off, lowers the pressure pushing the pin by making the pin smaller, just as done with the Power Piston on the LVL 10, allowing you to pull the trigger much easier, allowing you to walk or fan the trigger very easily. Just as the LVL 10 needed adjustment, so will the ULE Trigger Pull Kit. You will need to adjust the amount of shims (only use ULE Trigger Pull kit shims unless you know what you are doing!) in order to adjust the length to set it to the right length for it to fire correctly. If there arenít enough shims, the marker will not fire. If there are too many, it will either double fire or fire full auto. Some people actually do this on purpose, but it is not field legal, and I do not recommend it.
One thing that has been said about this mod is that this also makes the marker capable of being "short stroked". This means that the trigger is not pulled back far enough the marker will either shoot the paintball a very short distance, or not shoot it much at all and leave it in the barrel for the next ball to chop it. This can be a problem. I plan to check on this, but I do believe it is true because it came from Tom Kaye's Prototype page. This could just be a problem with his older prototype, but it was said on the last page where he announced that the ULE Trigger Pull kit would be released soon. He also said that with practice, it would be very easy to walk the trigger without short stroking.
This upgrade will not work on any older valve. It only works on X-Valve and about half of the RT Valves. If you own an RT/ReTro valve, check the RT/ReTro valve section to see if you can use this upgrade or not.
The Y-Grip is a reverse 45* grip. The point of the grip being reversed is to add a new twist to holding your marker. Some say it is very comfortable and easier to use; others say that itís not all that great and would prefer a regular grip.
The Z-Grip is another reversed grip. Instead of a traditional 45*, it is at much more of an angle. Also, the trigger is at an angle too. When pulling the trigger, you are not only pulling the trigger back, you are also pulling it downward too. As with the Y-Grip, some find it more comfortable while others like a traditional grip better.
Required and Recommended Upgrades
This is a simple list of upgrades are parts that this marker either requires or is recommended for optimal use.
- If using a mag with a ReTro Valve or X-Valve, you must have N2/Compressed Air.
- An agitated hopper is recommended, for the recoil is so little that a gravity fed hopper will not get the shake required to correctly load paint. Itís your choice, anything from a simple VL to a more advanced and faster Halo of Q-loader.
- It would definitely be a good idea to buy the stock AGD airline set up unless you have your own plans and their air set up will not work (such as a drop forward). Their set up is shrink wrapped braided hose.
- A good brand adjustable tank is recommended if you can afford it, and would like to be able to adjust how your consistency works (if you have an X-Valve).
- If you do not want an adjustable tank, a good recommendation is a large air capacity tank with a fast recharging and consistent regulator.
E-Mags are electronic Automags. They are pretty much the same Automag as any mechanical Automag, but with an electronic grip. To replace the air-through fore grip, AGD has made a battery pack to go there as a fore grip, with wires running from the internal battery to the Pistol Grip. Inside the Piston Grip there is a PC Board and a Solenoid Assembly. The PC Board, as with any electronic marker, is what makes it electronic. It holds all electronic information such as firing modes, and controls the whole system. It has a display screen to show firing modes and such information. The trigger system is replaced with a magnetic system. This replaces the old method of resetting the trigger with air, and uses magnets instead. This makes the pull a great deal lighter, smoother, and easier to use. When pressed in, the trigger presses a button instead of moving a Trigger assembly. The pushing of that button sends a signal to the board, which activates the Solenoid Assembly. The Solenoid is a part that is as simple as pushing a pin. When activated, it pushes the pin, which pushes a new rod on the bottom of the new Trigger Assembly, which fires the marker. There is also a new On/Off Assembly made to adjust the reactivity of the original On/Off Assembly and is made specifically for the Solenoid Assembly. The E-Mag can fire in three different ways. These ways are Electronic, Mechanical, and Hybrid. In Mechanical mode, it fires purely mechanical like any other Automag. When in Electronic mode, the E-Mag can use different firing modes, and different electronic adjustments, such as BPS adjustment, timer, and shot count. While in Hybrid mode, the PC Board uses partial battery to control the shots electronically, but reactivity is present on the trigger. Since this mode is controlling the shots electronically, it still has the timer and shot counts, but is still Semi-Automatic just as it is in Mechanical mode.
The X-Mag is a better version of the E-Mag. Instead of relying on just the LVL 10 bolt for anti-chop, it also uses eyes as many newer electro markers do. Instead of located on the side like most eyes, it is actually located on the bottom of the breach for maximum anti-chop ability. It also has a removeable/replaceable breach so the marker can change feed style(such as center feed or horizontal warp feed) can be added without buying a whole new body. Sadly, the production of the X-Mag has been canceled, but can still be found on auction sites such as EBay, and from people willing to give up their beautiful marker.
For images of AGDs markers, from the old school 68 Automag to the high tech X-mag, check out the Gallery of Markers section of the AGD Virtual Museum here.
I hope my guide helped you out. I ultimately learned this by studying those charts, and making a previous attempt to explain how the Automag functions. Doing so helped me understand it much better for myself, and tell it to all of you today. I have also spent time researching Automags, their functions, and their upgrade parts. I truly hope that this helped you understand how the Automag works , what different upgrades you can get, and what they do for your (or anyone elseís) Automag. If you have any questions, comments, or minor fixes, please feel free to PM me any time.
This post has been edited by NinjaoftheNight79: 01 August 2006 - 01:36 AM