Posted 08 January 2006 - 05:19 PM
By Poppa Bear of OSOK:
I am reposting this article due to repeated request:
Silencing your Tippmann 98, 98C, and 98© Flatline, (some of these principles will apply to other markers since a lot of them use the same types of operating components).
Supplies you need:
1). Lithium Grease
2). Peel and stick silicone "Feet", (like the little rubber feet on the bottom of your
Computer monitor or printer so it doesn't slide off your desk or scratch it).
3). 1/8" piece of Neoprene rubber, a small piece of 2"X2", (or several squares cut out of
Bicycle inner tube built up in layers = to 1/8").
5). Small tube of 100% clear silicone
6). 600 grit sandpaper
7). Dremil Tool with the 1/8" diamond ball grinder
8). Teflon Tape
9). The tools to disassemble your marker
Ok first disassemble your 98 into its component halves.
1. Take out the Hammer, and lightly sand the "face" of the hammer where it strikes the valve pin. Make sure it is clean, oil free and dry.
2. Stick the silicone rubber "Foot", (get one pack of feet that closely matches the size of the hammer diameter, if it is bigger trim to size), onto the Hammer face so it won"t clack when it hits the pin. You will need to turn up your fps screw slightly to compensate for the lost impact force absorbed by the foot.
3. Make sure you STILL have the rear hammer O-ring that keeps your hammer from hitting the rear of the marker on rec0ck.
4. Using the Lithium grease lightly grease the inner bore of the hammer chamber, get the Hammer O-ring real good as well.
5. Using the Teflon tape wrap on one or two layers around the c0cking knob so it doesn't rattle in the hammer or against the body slot.
6. Use the Lithium grease to lubricate the bolt assembly being careful NOT to get any in the air path.
7. On the Hammer to Bolt connection rod, wrap One layer of Teflon tape around it, making sure you have a snug fit where the tails go into the Hammer and bolt, add one layer at a time until you achieve a snug but not tight fit. You may have to use the Dremil tool to deepen the connecting rod slot if your rod is to thick to slide in it, grease the slot, (both halves), with lithium grease.
8. On the Hammer return spring and the trigger return spring put a THIN line of silicone down the length of the spring and let it dry for 8 hrs, (this takes out that musical vibration note).
9. A Blob of Lithium grease on the hammer sear catch will help cut down on Hammer c0cking/rec0cking click.
10. Reassemble the Marker
11. Place the 1/8" neoprene between your drop forward and marker body at the mount point, this will cut out Tank Ping, if you run a remote this is not needed.
12. You may have to re-grease with lithium every 100 hours or so or when it starts getting loud again.
13. HPA is much quieter than CO2.
14. IF you can't afford a silencer, (yet), the next best thing is a barrel that has a long length of small diameter ports drilled along the cardinal points of the compass, and parallel with the firing axis.
15. Even if you shoot HPA an expansion chamber or "Low pressure" kit will help noise reduction as well.
Hope this helps,
Anti-Fog Goggle Spray
* Spray bottle
* Baby Shampoo (tear free stuff like Johnson's)
1. Mix a salution of water and shampoo. I recommend anywhere from 5:1 to 10:1
(water: shampoo) in the spray bottle. you can experiment with different
strengths of solution for best results.
2. Spray the solution on your goggles and wipe off any exess.
This anti-fog is used by SCUBA divers around the world, but under extremem conditions
(high heat and humidity) even it will fail.
Never used it so I can't rank it, sorry. Also I got this off the net and would like to give thanks to who ever came up with the idea to use it in paintball.
5:1 is good for hot summer games 10:1 is great for winters dry conditions spread the love
How to make and internally silenced hopper.
Here's one that has helped me considerably since I did it and mounted it on my marker. I have both eliminated and been eliminated because of balls rattling in the hopper, so this is highly recommended for any sniper that uses a hopper.
I hope it goes without saying that this should not be attempted with a motorized loader. I would hope that PB snipers wouldn't even have something that could randomly make noise to give them away...
What you'll need:
One VL200 regular hopper
One sheet of 2-4 mm neoprene, at least 10"x10"
Regualr Elmers glue (do not use a "super" glue; it will eat the neoprene!)
A phillips-head screwdriver
Step 1: Remove all the screws holding the VL200 together. Don't strip the screws or lose them as you'll need to put them back. You will end up with three pieces after this; the two halves of the hopper and the lid. Don't lose the spring for the lid!
Step 2: You will need to cut 5 pieces of neoprene out of the sheet to fit inside the hopper. One for each side, one for each half of the end, and one for the lid. Make sure you don't cramp the hole on the bottom or balls won't feed!
Step 3: Glue the pieces in to the hopper and lid, making sure that none of the neoprene sticks out from the edges, or you won't be able to get the two halves back together.
Step 4: When the glue has dried (overnight) put the hopper back together. Don't forget the spring for the lid. Check to make sure that balls will still drop normally out the bottom.
I got this stuff from other forums
#2 Guest_Dream of Nullification_*
Posted 11 January 2006 - 02:53 AM
you dont really need this, 2 tank o-rings work equaly as well. put one onto each screw that secures your dropforward to your gun
2 tank o-rings behind your bolt on the powertube helps to quieten the noise and as always polish up your internals
theres anoter im working on. you move the part where your stock goes (i dunno what its called. back plastic peice? where the bolt sping goes into?) anyways you move it back one groove and place the current o-ring between it and your hammer into the empty groove then place a second o-ring where the first one was. will reduce recoil and make the blowback quieter but im worried the spring may get jammed and dont want that so do this one at your own risk
Posted 16 March 2006 - 06:11 PM
The how to silence the mechanical noise of your 98 is one of mine from OSOK.
I have several more, some of them like how to get the most out of your flatline I have seen reposted here as well.
If you have any questions on the Flatline 98 or Flatline Autococker (FLAC), fire away.
I have a small machine shop in my garage, so if you ever need help on mods on your markers or you want someone to machine them for you let me know as well.
Posted 05 June 2006 - 12:26 PM
Posted 08 June 2006 - 01:05 PM
I completely understand what you are saying but just to make sure I got out my 98c manual and you used different names for different parts could you confirm these names.
1. Hammer..............................................Rear bolt
2. Hammer face.......................................The front (face) of the rear bolt
3. Inner Bore of the Hammer Chamber......Where the bolt comes in contact with the Valve in the Custom
4. Cocking knob.......................................Bolt Handle
5.Bolt Assembly.......................................Front bolt and where is comes in contact with the Custom Power Tube
6. Hammer to Bolt Connection Rod.............Linkage Arm
7. Hammer Reture Spring..........................Drive Spring
8.Hammer Sear Catch...............................Sear
9. Drop Forward........................................Tank Adapter
Thanks for helpin' a newb.
This post has been edited by WoodsSniper: 08 June 2006 - 01:44 PM
My teams home field, take a look, especially if your from Mississippi
Posted 08 June 2006 - 01:53 PM
Switching to a higher tension spring can compensate for the speed loss without causing an increase to your gas consumption. Most of us can't use our higher/highest tension springs because it puts us well over the FPS limit anyway.
This post has been edited by NIGHTSHADOW: 09 June 2006 - 05:36 PM
Posted 17 July 2006 - 02:53 PM
Yes. You can sell your Tipppmann and buy an Automag, Dye Matrix, Autococker or Ion. You will find that you marker becomes much more quiet without having to take anything apart.