Special Ops Paintball: recomendations for zeroing FS rounds - Special Ops Paintball

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recomendations for zeroing FS rounds Rate Topic: -----

#16 User is offline   gubment_man 

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Posted 07 December 2010 - 10:12 PM

ok. Now I know what you are talking about, I already have them on the scope. I would have to take of the one on the front scope ring for it to make a difference compared to how it is now. I'll try that after I test out how I have it configured now.
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#17 User is offline   Shipwreck! 

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Posted 08 December 2010 - 12:40 AM

Wow there's alot of replies here already, you've probably got all the help you need.

But just for the record in case nobody said it already, and just to re-iterate if they did: there's no such thing as a flat trajectory, all projectile motion (even bullets) is parabolic (curved). It's just a question of how wide is that arc? With anything fired by compressed gases: not very.

Anyway, I run an A5 with all pneumatics stock, no add on regulators expansion chambers or any of it. Yet I am constantly suprised at how consistently it fires. To zero my sight I had my little cousin brace the vert air bottle against a flat surface and hold it in place while I worked the triger and put a grouping on the side of a conex box at about 75ft. Then I just adjusted the red dot to the middle of that grouping. After switching around the sight to different guns, abusing it and the A5 constantly, and about three or four years (maybe five) I have never had to re-calibrate and it still works like a charm. on my A5 that is. Since you're runing first strike rounds I definently recomend zeroing at a longer range, I did 75ft (estimate) with paintballs. Adjust your velocity so as to be field legal put a group on a target and calibrate. Paitballs being accurate-ish at best this isn't as crucial a thing as it seems often to be made out as.
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#18 User is offline   gubment_man 

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Posted 19 March 2011 - 04:59 PM

I just adjusted my new Tiberius adjustable rail. This thing does the trick and is so worth the money, all I had to do is mount my scope to it as usual and start zeroing from close range to what ever you want your zero to be and when you max out your scope adjust the rail angle and re-adjust your scope. All I needed was a slight downward angle to get a zero of 100ft. I was able to shoot over 400ft with the rail maxed out. If I didnt run out of fs, I would have try to get my zero to around 200 and maybe get my max adjusted zero with the rail to close to 500. Eitherway, the rail fixed all my problems.
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