Special Ops Paintball: Tac One Fire Rate... - Special Ops Paintball

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Tac One Fire Rate... Doesn't always shoot for each trigger pull. Rate Topic: -----

#31 User is offline   Slivers 

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Posted 05 November 2010 - 03:52 PM

Talk to Ninja about this one. You may be able to have them just swap a reg on for you that fits.

I'd go for as much pressure as you can get out of the Ninja. You can always remove shims to go down. My ReTro valve RIPS with a standard Ninja reg shimmed as far as they'd recommend. I actually put the emag quad oring in the on/off to tone it down. Recharge is the key, in actually. That's one reason higher pressures make it RT faster.
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#32 User is offline   cdrinkh20 

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Posted 06 November 2010 - 01:21 PM

View PostSlivers, on 05 November 2010 - 04:52 PM, said:

Talk to Ninja about this one. You may be able to have them just swap a reg on for you that fits.

I'd go for as much pressure as you can get out of the Ninja. You can always remove shims to go down. My ReTro valve RIPS with a standard Ninja reg shimmed as far as they'd recommend. I actually put the emag quad oring in the on/off to tone it down. Recharge is the key, in actually. That's one reason higher pressures make it RT faster.


Thinking about it further...
To ship it down to them (from Canada) and then back, on top of regulator costs, brings me up over $105 (at least).
To buy a whole new tank, its' $155 + $25 shipping (or more)...plus maybe customs (though NAFTA says if it's built in the US or Mexico then there shouldn't be any.

Basically, I realised in the end (using Canadian price of $215 + free shipping), it is $2/yr cheaper to just get the reg...

Ie. $215/15 years = $14.3/year for new ; $105/9 years = approx $12/year...but add $100 for new tank (plus shipping...$25) and you get $230/9 years = $25.56/year.

If I went with that shipping cost and bought from Ninja directly (which I will as I want extra shims, etc) --> $155+$25 shipping = $180 (no customs?) / 15 years = $12/year...cheaper than a reg for 9 years and then a new tank.

So in the end it might just be better for me to bite the bullet now and buy a tank - at least I know Ninja is high quality.

Until I took into account that I would have to replace this tank in 9 years due to the 15 year rule...so say I took off the reg and bought a new tank without one...that adds at least $100 to the reg-swap option, and I end up paying effectively double,
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#33 User is offline   cdrinkh20 

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Posted 07 November 2010 - 04:27 PM

Also, somewhat related question:

I've never used the Tippmann RT, nor have I tried using the original RT type pin on my Tac One.

What difference does higher output pressure make to a ULT setup? Or is that more for RT? How easy is it to get used to holding RT at proper finger pull pressure?
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#34 User is offline   Eskimo 

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Posted 07 November 2010 - 06:24 PM

The RT pin is what uses the different pressures more on the trigger, so with the RT the more air more RT ( you know this part)

The ULT is not effected much by a higher Imput pressure (the trigger feels roughly the same at 850 and 950 PSI for example)
The difference within the Recharge rates, and the Velocities will depend on the imput pressure.

Basically.

RT pin = Trigger and Valve are effected by pressure
ULT pin = Valve is effected by pressure.

its not hard to keep your finger in the same spot when you sweet spot it, ( sure you may lose it when starting out, But after while it becomes easy)

anwhere from 850 to 1100 is what most people run, I personally run at 900 PSI. the valve is rated up to 3000PSI...

But I think your hose might blow at that pressure.... but the RT would be awesome. lol.
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#35 User is offline   cdrinkh20 

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Posted 07 November 2010 - 07:23 PM

View PostEskimo, on 07 November 2010 - 06:24 PM, said:

The RT pin is what uses the different pressures more on the trigger, so with the RT the more air more RT ( you know this part)

The ULT is not effected much by a higher Imput pressure (the trigger feels roughly the same at 850 and 950 PSI for example)
The difference within the Recharge rates, and the Velocities will depend on the imput pressure.

Basically.

RT pin = Trigger and Valve are effected by pressure
ULT pin = Valve is effected by pressure.

its not hard to keep your finger in the same spot when you sweet spot it, ( sure you may lose it when starting out, But after while it becomes easy)

anwhere from 850 to 1100 is what most people run, I personally run at 900 PSI. the valve is rated up to 3000PSI...

But I think your hose might blow at that pressure.... but the RT would be awesome. lol.


Ah, I see....so the ULT is closer to tourney legal compared to the RT. But I've never played in, nor do I really have the desire to play in a tourney at this point :P maybe I would prefer the RT, I'll have to try it :) it's just a matter of putting the old pin piece in the Xvalve, yes?

I was going to see if Ninja would set a new tank for say, 1200 for me (and perhaps replace the first burst disk with a 3k) and I'd get the kit to change the output so I could drop it if I wanted. Wasn't sure 1200 is necessary though :P guess not, but probably better to start higher so I can drop it if needed.

Haha, saw that video with the 3000 psi scuba tank and 34.5 BPS :P sick!
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#36 User is offline   Eskimo 

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Posted 24 November 2010 - 07:31 PM

Ninja has set tanks higher for automag users all the time, ( at least from what ray has said on the Techpb forums in the ninja subforum)
But yes, I think someone asked them if they would set the imput pressure to 1000 and he said it was totally doable. just shoot them a E-mail to let them know what to do.

as for switching between the ULT and RT, yea all you do is take out the ULT and replace it with the RT. done.
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#37 User is offline   cdrinkh20 

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Posted 24 November 2010 - 08:10 PM

View PostEskimo, on 24 November 2010 - 07:31 PM, said:

Ninja has set tanks higher for automag users all the time, ( at least from what ray has said on the Techpb forums in the ninja subforum)
But yes, I think someone asked them if they would set the imput pressure to 1000 and he said it was totally doable. just shoot them a E-mail to let them know what to do.

as for switching between the ULT and RT, yea all you do is take out the ULT and replace it with the RT. done.


Still waiting on the tank to arrive - asked for 1200 output (apparently it's not adjustable due to the higher pressure, but if I went lower it wouldn't have been adjustable up so I figured why not)...they said it'd probably ship not last Friday, but the one before...so its been 8ish business days since shipping.

Unfortunately, the O-rings for the original RT are missing...I can apparently get a kit from AGD, but I'd prefer not to spend any more :dry: ... there were extra o-rings in the bag, I *think* they may be correct but I have to air up and see when I get the chance...I'll probably set the ULT first so if it starts leaking when I try to get o-rings set for the RT I won't need the air to set the ULT.

The smaller o-ring seems to fit nice and tight around the pin in the middle of the RT, but the second o-ring (that goes down underneath the RT inside the valve) seems like it might be small, but I don't know how it should look...should it fit easily around the smaller o-ring? It seems to fill the niche in the valve ok, but if I give it one hard shake upside-down I can get it out without tools, so it may be a tad too small. Could anyone take a picture of how the two o-rings on top of the RT pin should look in relation to each other (ie. one fits around the other)?
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#38 User is offline   cdrinkh20 

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Posted 25 November 2010 - 02:15 PM

I just realised something that may be a problem...

My Tac One has a stock that uses macroline to reach the valve...from what I understand, macroline is rated at 1200 psi...
And the tank that's coming will be 1200 psi output..

Is that gonna blow the line?
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#39 User is offline   Slivers 

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Posted 25 November 2010 - 02:40 PM

'prolly not. If you're worried about it, order some from macrolineguy.com or ninja. They carry stuff that will work at that pressure.

By the way, you may find you need a quad oring in the on/off just to keep it from going multiple shots/trigger pull at 1200. My Ninja is a standard reg Ray turned up as far as he felt reasonable. I haven't measured it, but I'd be surprised if it's 1100 tops. It made me switch out my .720 pin for a standard .750 with a quad oring. It's still bloody fast, but at least it's manageable.

This is why I recommend Ninja so highly.
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#40 User is offline   cdrinkh20 

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Posted 25 November 2010 - 02:45 PM

View PostSlivers, on 25 November 2010 - 02:40 PM, said:

'prolly not. If you're worried about it, order some from macrolineguy.com or ninja. They carry stuff that will work at that pressure.

By the way, you may find you need a quad oring in the on/off just to keep it from going multiple shots/trigger pull at 1200. My Ninja is a standard reg Ray turned up as far as he felt reasonable. I haven't measured it, but I'd be surprised if it's 1100 tops. It made me switch out my .720 pin for a standard .750 with a quad oring. It's still bloody fast, but at least it's manageable.

This is why I recommend Ninja so highly.


Found someone post this place up:
http://www.airsoldie...y_Code=FITTINGS
1000psi working, 3000 burst :P lol

Could you link to quad o-ring? I'm gonna be tuning this all winter anyways, so I guess I might as well get it right BEFORE I play lol.

I can't think of any reason I would have a .720 pin if the .750 pin comes stock, though..

This post has been edited by cdrinkh20: 25 November 2010 - 02:47 PM

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#41 User is offline   Slivers 

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Posted 25 November 2010 - 02:58 PM

http://store.airgund...5&categoryID=24

Essentially provides a seal at the top and bottom of the ring, instead of the middle. It seals better with less pressure (= smoother operation), holds lubricant better, and effectively shortens your pin a little. They used them in the emag on/off to reduce reactivity and get a better pull.
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#42 User is offline   cdrinkh20 

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Posted 25 November 2010 - 03:08 PM

View PostSlivers, on 25 November 2010 - 02:58 PM, said:

http://store.airgund...5&categoryID=24

Essentially provides a seal at the top and bottom of the ring, instead of the middle. It seals better with less pressure (= smoother operation), holds lubricant better, and effectively shortens your pin a little. They used them in the emag on/off to reduce reactivity and get a better pull.


Where do these o-rings go? In place of the bottom o-ring and the one inside the valve?

Ie. the one shown here and the one in the valve?

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#43 User is offline   Slivers 

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Posted 25 November 2010 - 03:17 PM

See the small oring on the top around the pin? That's the one you replace. It nestles into the larger 3/8" OD one in the on/off cavity (unless you have an unmodified ReTro valve, in which case it's solo).
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#44 User is offline   cdrinkh20 

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Posted 25 November 2010 - 03:48 PM

View PostSlivers, on 25 November 2010 - 03:17 PM, said:

See the small oring on the top around the pin? That's the one you replace. It nestles into the larger 3/8" OD one in the on/off cavity (unless you have an unmodified ReTro valve, in which case it's solo).


My other issue is that I don't know if my other o-ring that would go around that one is the right size, so good to know the OD measurement.
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#45 User is offline   cdrinkh20 

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Posted 27 November 2010 - 11:45 AM

Ok...update:

I adjusted the sear length to approximately 1mm (credit card depth)...and now, when I fire (using my old preset 800psi tank and the ULT) after a couple shots ("rapid" shots) the sear fails to reset, and I can hear a leak inside the marker.

Thoughts?

Should I tune the ULT til it double fires, bring it down a shim, and THEN check the level 10?

Or do you think it's another issue?
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