Compatible 98c double trigger Searching for a decent one..
#1
Posted 16 September 2010 - 08:41 AM
#2
Posted 16 September 2010 - 11:43 AM
#3
#4
#5
Posted 16 September 2010 - 01:59 PM
#6
Posted 16 September 2010 - 02:23 PM
Domi-Nate, on 16 September 2010 - 02:59 PM, said:
I can't say personally as I still use a mechanical (hated idea of changing battery by taking apart receiver halves/not playing in rain) - it has a nice feel regardless. The mechanical trigger pull is such that "walking" the trigger is certainly not "easy".
It doesn't seem much different from some electro triggers, though, so it should work fine
I assure you the Tippmann plastic double trigger is CRAP
#7
Posted 17 September 2010 - 02:17 PM
#8
Posted 18 September 2010 - 12:29 AM
Most reviews I have read say that "blade" style (like the Fang) or a "pivot" trigger are the easiest to use, by far. I suppose it's a matter of choice, but people find the indentations for individual fingers just make it harder to do on the spot because your fingers must be in the right position exactly each trigger "pull".
I suggest you do what people on this forum tell you to do with EVERY piece of equipment people ask about - TRY some out. Go to your field, if you see someone with that type of product, ASK them if you can try to see how marker's trigger feels because you would like one for yours (note the style is more important than brand as they are usually made for specific frames/markers).
As far as I know, they don't really have a "rocking" trigger for the 98c, but I've never looked. By the way, a rocking trigger uses a pivot in the middle, with two electronic contacts (one on top, one on bottom) so that you don't have a longer/shorter trigger pull depending on top/bottom of trigger. You have to tune the sensitivity so that the darn thing doesn't fire just because you hand it to someone or you are running
Good luck!
#10
Posted 18 September 2010 - 07:32 PM
#11
Posted 02 October 2010 - 01:54 PM
#12
Posted 02 October 2010 - 02:19 PM
RT requires milling a hole in the receiver halves, correct? Mine had a cyclone on it and if you choose to get one also you will need another kit to make it work properly with the RT.
RT however, will be better with rain, etc (electronics are fragile) and with E-Trigger you can't use CO2 (Which would suck for high ROF anyways).
#13
Posted 02 October 2010 - 02:36 PM
.... I know some of you are "air firing" now thinking ... Dang Slinky's right.
#15
Posted 02 October 2010 - 03:01 PM
Domi-Nate, on 02 October 2010 - 03:41 PM, said:
To my knowledge (never used CO2 except in my pump):
1) CO2 is a liquid when pressurized. Therefore, when you screw in the tank, it turns to a gas when released.
2) It becomes a gas more quickly when:
a ) It is warmer outside (leads to higher velocity at a set "speed" on your velocity adjustment" in warmer temp)
b ) The line/gun you are letting it vent into is warmer. The gun will cool as you fire.
3) If the line is not long enough, you fire too quickly, or it is too cool outside (I don't think this is as big a factor), the CO2 liquid will NOT become a gas quickly enough. It will remain a liquid in your gun.
When CO2 liquid gets inside your gun, it can:
a ) Wreck O-rings - it makes the rubber less pliable by freezing/cracking them.
b ) More importantly for your question, it will destroy your electronic components when it gets into your grip (which it would as it is what is resetting your hammer - hence a "blowback" design).
This post has been edited by cdrinkh20: 02 October 2010 - 03:03 PM

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