[CONFIRMEDKILL]

I've got a Spyder E-grip.

I got it used for 20 bucks, years ago... For a while I thought the solenoid didn't work, but after placing a shim behind it (two dimes), it tripped the sear. Problem is, however, that if it trips the sear while the gun is pressurized, it wont catch it again, and my gun will spray co2, and sound like a gatlin gun... Any ideas why?

Do I need a new solenoid?

Thanks, CK

This post has been edited by CONFIRMEDKILL: 24 July 2010 - 08:16 PM

[druid]

Spyder clapper noids [the one you are describing] rarely if ever wear out because they are really nothing more than electromagnets.

While the frame is off the marker, polish the top and back of the sear. Easy method = gray rubber wheel for the Dremel. More difficult way = Mother's Mag polish and elbow grease. Light oil or WD-40 on the polished surface to prevent rust.

Now polish the bottom of the striker that matches the sear contact points. Again, light oil - NOT WD-40 [it eats the ORing].

Replace the sear spring with one from a Maddmann kit.


Remove the 2 [or 4?] Allen screws that hold the noid in place. Take it apart into it's 3 pieces...body copper ring and clapper.

Remove all dirt and grit from between the parts and then CLEAN THE COPPER RING with some kind of metal cleaner. Reassemble.

Drop the noid back into the pocklet and using a flat head screwdriver, force the noid body to the FRONT of the pocket while you retighten the 2 [or 4] Allen set screws that hold it in place.

Take the 9V alkaline battery out and throw it away. Reinstall a brand new, 9.6V NiMh that's around 250mAh, rechargeable battery that's fully charged [16 hours if charging on-frame or 10-12 hours in a regular "generic" or "bank" wall charger. Charge it nonstop...DO NOT interrupt the first charge.

Reinstall grip on body but DON'T overtighten the two frame screws. a quarter turn past where it stops is IT.

Test it and report back your findings.

[CONFIRMEDKILL]

Sorry for the late reply, but thanks for your input!

I've cleaned the noid, reassembled with a flat head, and now it's ready to go. I suppose I'll order the kingman java battery, as I guess it's tailor made to fit in the grip and it's a 9.6 volt.

As for the sear spring, which spring am I replacing? the main one on the inside of the body?

Thanks, josh

Edit:

And I really hope the battery makes the difference... I've reassembled the grip, and the noid still won't trip the sear when the gun is cocked, even though it'll push the uncocked sear back forth easily.

This post has been edited by CONFIRMEDKILL: 20 August 2010 - 08:35 PM

[druid]

CONFIRMEDKILL, on 20 August 2010 - 11:18 PM, said:

Sorry for the late reply, but thanks for your input!

I've cleaned the noid, reassembled with a flat head, and now it's ready to go. I suppose I'll order the kingman java battery, as I guess it's tailor made to fit in the grip and it's a 9.6 volt.

That or any other 9.6V 180-to-240mAh battery will do.


As for the sear spring, which spring am I replacing? the main one on the inside of the body?

If you get a Maddmann Spring kit, you can replace all of them. Replace the sear spring first though, that might be the cause of some of your issues...but having the other springs will make life a little easier for you too...

Thanks, josh

Edit:

And I really hope the battery makes the difference... I've reassembled the grip, and the noid still won't trip the sear when the gun is cocked, even though it'll push the uncocked sear back forth easily.

I'm betting the battery is toast. Don't mess with it too much until you get the new one in. When installing the new battery, MAKE SURE you plug it in to charge for NO LESS THAN 14 HOURS. If you interrupt the charge cycle, you could very well give the new battery a "memory" of low charge...that's not good....