[p8blr]

I have a halo B loader with a V35 board and I want to make it run manually with a switch instead of using the break-beam eyes, has anyone done this before???

Thanks!

[trustme]

im nearly possitive you cant. the closest thing you can get to a blind halo would be a reloader B because that relies on sound. The halo uses the eyes to activate its motor to feed or not take that away it has no way of monitoring itself

[Silent-7]

I apologize if I'm a bit oblivious... but are the eyes built into the board? Cause if not, couldn't you just cut the wires to the eyes and solder a switch in place?

I am, however, completely unfamiliar with Halo internals...

[Tenacious221]

Yeah you probably could.

You might have to try a few times to get it right. You never know if the eyes are at rest off or on.

be sure to use a momentary switch, not an off on, type. (push button that goes back to where it was when you let go)

Cut the eyes in the middle of their respective wires so that if it goes wrong, you can put it all back together.

-Tenacious

[trustme]

still wont work. The motor will be spinning at all times while the button is on. thus causing the propeller to spin and when the feedneck gets full the propeller will continue to put pressure on the stack with no way to monitor it and you now have a blender.

[Animal412]

I would assume he means to put said switch in the trigger, something like an RF mod.

[Eskimo]

Yea, move the eyes out-side the Hopper, then have a switch glued on the side which moves back and fourth. to break and complete the beam.
Seen it done before.

doesnt work as well as you think lol.

[p8blr]

Animal got it right with the whole switch thing. But I ended moving the eyes, thereby avoiding the whole switch thing. What I was trying to do was make a mount to hold the loader in the same fashion the warp feed is setup, only without the warp attachment. I had used one in the past, but could never get over the idea that it made the gun so much bigger vertically. Anyways, I recently came across a halo loader and I machined an attachment with a feedneck, which ended up holding the loader very nicely. However, in the end the halo could feed paint up the tube just fine, but it could not make the right angle bend into the feedneck. It would just freak out and flash the red/green "jam" signal.

Anyways it was fun, but the halo is simply not powerful enough.

Here is a pic of how it looked, sorry for the bad pic it's just with my phone:

[Tenacious221]

Did you try soldering the eyes through the microswitch on your marker's board? So it would only "go" when you pull the trigger?

-Tenacious

[p8blr]

Well, the way the halo works is it wont feed if the receiver sees the led, and begins to feed when the receiver loses the signal. So technically if you could align them correctly in the last bend before the paint enters the feedneck (I used the plastic warp attachment) it should work correctly. But I never really got that far once I discovered the halo did not have enough torque to push the paint thru the tube and the bends.

[Tenacious221]

Well, if looks be damned, what if you just stuck the tube into a standard feedneck and skipped the 90* part?

-Tenacious

[p8blr]

Now that may work, a soft bend would be much easier on the loader than the sharp 90* turn. However, I'm betting that it would use a lot of hose. I was just testing with some wire loom that I glued along the seam, so it was not that great, but worked for testing... I may have to try this, but I would like to avoid having 30+ rounds in the feed alone, lol
The ideas that I have had was either to beef up the halo with a more powerful motor. This would mean trashing the board, using the switch in trigger method, modifying the shell of the loader, very possibly destroying the loader... OR, creating a more compact "warp feed" system. Something simple enough to help give the paint a push up the hose. Like a small foam wheel that would run when the halo did.