Need help with my Paintball Marker. I think i have a leak?
#16
Posted 04 February 2010 - 03:05 PM
i looked at everything. the o rings looked fine!
WOODSBALLER!
Trip-Wires are my friends!
#17
Posted 04 February 2010 - 03:16 PM
Was it assembled correctly?
Spring > retainer > poppit.
If everything is ok then lube and reassemble.
.
Spring > retainer > poppit.
If everything is ok then lube and reassemble.
.
#18
Posted 04 February 2010 - 03:18 PM
slinkyaroo, on Feb 4 2010, 04:16 PM, said:
Was it assembled correctly?
Spring > retainer > poppit.
If everything is ok then lube and reassemble.
Spring > retainer > poppit.
If everything is ok then lube and reassemble.
Agreed.
Spyders are extremely simple guns. There isn't much that can go wrong with them.
I could make a flow chart:
Step 0 - Is problem there?
1. Is it cocked (yes / no) - if no, make it yes, then go back to 0
2. Are any valve orings or poppit orings damaged/missing/not in proper place (yes / no) - if yes, fix and back to 0
3. Is there any damage to the poppit or valve surfaces (yes / no) - if yes, replace and back to 0
4. Is it assembled correctly (yes / no) - don't answer if it is or not, just take it apart, lube it, and put it back together. Start again at 0
5. Lubed or dry? If dry, oil, then go to step 4.
This post has been edited by Thalion: 04 February 2010 - 03:21 PM
Member of Team Akkadian
#19
Posted 04 February 2010 - 03:35 PM
Bad valve spring maybe?

That is not dead which can eternal lie,And with strange aeons even death may die.
#20
Posted 05 February 2010 - 12:50 PM
Maybe it needs a new cup seal? Just throwing that out there. I know it's a new marker, but sometimes it doesn't hurt to do a little quality check.
#21
Posted 26 February 2010 - 04:56 AM
i own a couple of spyders, that sound normally mean that the inside of your front valve has scratches on it, if you want i fixed, you need to replace the valve, cupseal, and valve stem, otherwise you will keep getting that sound
the inside of the valve is a machind surface, and the stem has notches cut into it, a bad idea in general becuase it makes it easier for them to wear out, try that first, to remove the valve, take off the front and take out the enternals, then punch out the pin by the valv that goes through the outside of the body carefully, then push the valve out the front
in some cases you may not have to take the pin ou, it just depends on how worn out other things, like o-rings are
also, if your bolt is made from metal check it for wear on the outside, it will be worn out if it hasnt had proper care, like being dry fired and not lubed
the inside of the valve is a machind surface, and the stem has notches cut into it, a bad idea in general becuase it makes it easier for them to wear out, try that first, to remove the valve, take off the front and take out the enternals, then punch out the pin by the valv that goes through the outside of the body carefully, then push the valve out the front
in some cases you may not have to take the pin ou, it just depends on how worn out other things, like o-rings are
also, if your bolt is made from metal check it for wear on the outside, it will be worn out if it hasnt had proper care, like being dry fired and not lubed
This post has been edited by kingcheese: 26 February 2010 - 04:57 AM
offical saber #137
if we cant do it, then it doesnt need to be done
if we cant do it, then it doesnt need to be done

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