Special Ops Paintball: Some questions about painting my Tippmann M98 - Special Ops Paintball

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Some questions about painting my Tippmann M98 For Big Bone and others Rate Topic: -----

#1 User is offline   OSOKS 

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Posted 16 November 2008 - 07:29 PM

Big Bone this is probably all for you because I know you know a lot about painting guns.
Ok, first off forgive me if these have already been answered, but I have always found it easier to ask for myself to make sure on an answer.
So I'm gonna stop being proper on my typing cause it'll go faster that way. Plus I have really never liked having to do it in school.

ok so im gonna try and paint a tippy m98 that i found while cleaning up some storage buildings for my moms boss. i already have all the original paint off the gun. yeah i know prolly a stupid move but it was already coming off where the balls go into the gun. i guess from a buster from the previous owner. so here are the ?s.

1. what grit sandpaper do i need to use to give the paint something to bite to on the metal? 100 or 220? i have read post on here saying one or the other but cant remember which was which.
2. what grit do i use to give the next layer of paint to bite the first? again 100 or 220? thats where i got the two mixed.
3. is it better to put a primer on first and then put a base coat on there or just use a base coat?
4. if i do put a primer on do i need to sand it before adding the base coat? that is what i mean by ? 2
5. should i paint the internal of the gun when painting the outside too? only on the primer not the other paint.
6. if i was to use a paint that give the surface a stoney feel could i do multi layers for different colors of stone? or get one color, apply to gun, and then paint the other colors on top using regular paint?
7. what is a good clear coat that i can use to put on when finished? there is a specail clear coat for the stoney paint that i was thinking about using but now sure if it was do well with the other paint.
8. even if the can says dries in 10 minutes is it better to wait maybe an hour or something before painting another coat or layer of paint?
9. what technique is used for fading like Micah's X7 in his sig?

for right now i think thats it on the painting ?s

10. is there a good sandblaster i could buy that has everything i need? gun, bag, hoses, all that good stuff.
11. what kind of airbrush gun and all that would be a good one to use to paint guns and similar stuff like that?
12. does anyone have either one for sale by chance? if so let me know.

i think thats it for right now on those

if i think of anything else ill keep it posted on here.
thanks in advance the any help.

btw im gonna see about painting the gun in a tigerstripe thats unique-ish to me.

-OSOKS


EDIT:
Deleted: 13. has anyone ever used a program called eMachineShop that let you design things and get them fabricated? i need some help on using it.
I should've just went to the help guide that downloaded with the program. Helped A LOT.
EDIT:
Added: 9. what technique is used for fading like Micah's X7 in his sig?
Forgot to add that this morning.

This post has been edited by OSOKS: 17 November 2008 - 09:05 AM

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#2 User is offline   nchittendon 

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Posted 17 November 2008 - 08:08 AM

For paint, I would suggest looking into Duracoat: www.lauerweaponry.com

I wouldn't see the need to paint the internals?

And the longer you are able to wait between coats, I would assume, the better. If you're dealing with Duracoat, it literally sets in about 15 minutes. That stuff is indestructible.
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#3 User is offline   OSOKS 

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Posted 17 November 2008 - 08:49 AM

View Postnchittendon, on Nov 17 2008, 09:08 AM, said:

For paint, I would suggest looking into Duracoat: www.lauerweaponry.com

I wouldn't see the need to paint the internals?

And the longer you are able to wait between coats, I would assume, the better. If you're dealing with Duracoat, it literally sets in about 15 minutes. That stuff is indestructible.


yea ive been a few times. awesome site. looked at the guns they have. silenced p22 with compensator in a urban digi paintjob.
i figured what id do was get some pracitce in on the painting before i used them plus id have to choose the colors seein as they have like a million different colors to choose from lol. and on the internals i mean just the inside of the gun not the actually parts, the inside of the frame cuz it was mostly painted from the factory coat that i took off. was just wondering if i should paint it back, but ok.
the paint i was gonna use for right now is krylon and then move up to dura since once its on theres no takin it off just painting over it.

plus im doin this just to get some practice in on painting guns and will prolly do it a few times since i cant play. there is absolutely no where to play in mississippi. the only drawback about around here not that many people play that have games.
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#4 User is offline   Jackson 

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Posted 17 November 2008 - 09:18 AM

Do not paint the inside of the gun. Any paint you saw in there is because of Tippmann's awesome quality painting technique (note: extreme sarcasm). That paint is called over-spray and it is a worthwhile modification to remove the over-spray where the internals move, aka polishing the internals.
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#5 User is offline   OSOKS 

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Posted 17 November 2008 - 11:33 AM

View PostJackson, on Nov 17 2008, 10:18 AM, said:

Do not paint the inside of the gun. Any paint you saw in there is because of Tippmann's awesome quality painting technique (note: extreme sarcasm). That paint is called over-spray and it is a worthwhile modification to remove the over-spray where the internals move, aka polishing the internals.


Thank you Jackson. You made me remember another question I was meaning to post on here for more detail.
On polishing the internals, what exactly do I do, use, etc? Yes, I know, newbie question.
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#6 User is offline   Maj Tom 

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Posted 17 November 2008 - 02:21 PM

Fine steel wool (00 or finer), sand paper (500+grit), or automotive cutting paste. Rub just long enough to remove the paint. Then if you wish use a polishing compound to buff it to a shine (not required).
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