Special Ops Paintball: Autococker general discussion thread - Special Ops Paintball

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Autococker general discussion thread From classy to classic. Rate Topic: ***** 1 Votes

#421 User is offline   left handed 

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Posted 26 March 2009 - 02:20 AM

If anyone sees a left hand feed body, let me know.
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#422 User is offline   Yakkers 

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Posted 20 April 2009 - 08:42 PM

Does anyone know if theres a way put the tank vertically where the gas thru grip goes on a Trilogy Sport? there's no pin, but is there any way to add one or any aftermarket parts that do so?
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#423 User is offline   flyweightnate 

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Posted 26 April 2009 - 01:25 PM

On/off valve on your tank, or a reg extender would do the trick with some very slight modification.
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#424 User is offline   Eskimo 

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Posted 25 June 2009 - 04:42 PM

alright. I would like to ask... a bunch of questions pertaining autocockers.

What are the main parts to the autococker?
( for example, I know an automag has a mainbody, a rail, and a frame, and your valve. all other parts are located inside those four main body pieces)

Can you make a autococker with electrical parts?
(Yes.. im being serious)

The pneumatics are located below the barrel. When you want to make it pump you remove this correct?

Is the sear activated by a sear tripper? or a rod? or a solenoid.. how does this thing fire?

Poppet valve right?

The autococker does not have a regulator inside the valve such as the automag, so you need a regulator. what is the normal operating pressure of the valve? you effectivly need three regulators, one from the tank. one in your own regulator and one inside the markers valve itself, Am I correct?

I have read tonnes of information on timing your autococker. I understand the basic principle, but one question: in order to reach higher levels of fire ( high Cycling rates) how much do you need to know about this?
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#425 User is offline   motoguy1251 

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Posted 29 June 2009 - 05:59 PM

View PostEskimo, on Jun 25 2009, 07:42 PM, said:

alright. I would like to ask... a bunch of questions pertaining autocockers.

What are the main parts to the autococker?
( for example, I know an automag has a mainbody, a rail, and a frame, and your valve. all other parts are located inside those four main body pieces)
Body, reg, 3 way, ram, lpr, front block, poppit valve, hammer, spring,feed neck, cocking rod, back block,bolt, trigger and trigger frame. Ivg,
Can you make a autococker with electrical parts?
(Yes.. im being serious)
Yes, there have been many electronic versions of an autococker,

The pneumatics are located below the barrel. When you want to make it pump you remove this correct?
Yep the 3 way, lpr and ram would be removed and replaces with a pump kit.

Is the sear activated by a sear tripper? or a rod? or a solenoid.. how does this thing fire?
In a mechanical autococker the trigger trips the sear releasing the hammer. In an electronic autococker a pancake solenoid lik in a tippmann or spyder trips the sear and a second solenoid that relpaces the 3 way runs the ram.

Poppet valve right?
Yes poppet.

The autococker does not have a regulator inside the valve such as the automag, so you need a regulator. what is the normal operating pressure of the valve? you effectivly need three regulators, one from the tank. one in your own regulator and one inside the markers valve itself, Am I correct?
An autococker has 2 regs on it. The main reg regulates the pressure to the valve and lpr. THis is usually between 200-300 psi. The lpr regulates the pressure to the 3 way and consequently the ram. If using hpa as you would with an electro cocker than yes a third reg already installed on the tank would be there. Most mechanical cockers can use co2.

I have read tonnes of information on timing your autococker. I understand the basic principle, but one question: in order to reach higher levels of fire ( high Cycling rates) how much do you need to know about this?

once its timed correctly it should be fine. If its mechanical than a few tricks can be done to make it cycle a little faster to achive a rate of fire around 10-12 bps. But an electro cocker can be pushed upwards of 20+ bps with the right modes and settings.


ANything else i forgot someone else can add but thats pretty much it.

Also does anyone know if you can seperate a ram to get the piston out?

This post has been edited by motoguy1251: 29 June 2009 - 06:00 PM

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#426 User is offline   mike7822 

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Posted 06 July 2009 - 04:54 PM

I recently got a Pre-2k sniper, but it is left feed and I don't like that. Where can I pick up a cheap center feed body? I searched but can't find anything.
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#427 User is offline   StealingYerMail 

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Posted 06 July 2009 - 10:47 PM

How often does the average Cocker need to be timed? I bought one for a friend who won't be playing too often, and I don't want him putting more time into timing/techning the marker than time he'll spend actually playing with it.
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#428 User is offline   Viherkogen 

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Posted 06 July 2009 - 11:01 PM

As long as he doesn't screw with the hammer, 3-way, or the back knob of the cocking rod, it should last years. The big thing is just to keep the gun oiled with a few drops in the ASA every day of play and around once a month if it is sitting still. I think the best advise for any Autococker owner is to time the gun, sweet spot both regs, and never touch an adjustment ever again(unless something goes wrong).
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#429 User is offline   CertifiedPaintballer 

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Posted 24 August 2009 - 05:37 PM

Hmm...not a lot of people post in this thread...or in this section at all...

But..I just got a PPS rock for $5 :ghillie:
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#430 User is offline   motoguy1251 

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Posted 12 November 2009 - 10:37 AM

I finally picked up an e2 frame and a eclipse ram with dual eclispe qev's. Waiting for Tadao Yakuza boards to come back in stock so i can finish my project.

Any one have any opinions on the stock e2 trigger vs the samurai trigger.
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#431 User is offline   flyweightnate 

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Posted 14 November 2009 - 09:02 PM

Go Samurai, or find a Delrin job- Fireball Mountain, Raguba, just about anything small and light. Some Ego triggers might even fit. The stock trigger is huge and heavy and slow, unless you got a late-model E2. I'm gonna mill (read: dremel with a cutter) my own trigger outta some barstock over break, I dislike the stock trigger so much.
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#432 User is offline   motoguy1251 

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Posted 16 November 2009 - 10:00 PM

Im not too fond of it, but the old wgp flat one grew on me. Ive thought of making my own. Just never getting around to it. Now to find a cheap trigger.
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#433 User is offline   Gauss 

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Posted 10 March 2010 - 08:00 PM

Got my Autococker SR from a buddy.


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#434 User is offline   burntearth 

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Posted 10 March 2010 - 08:13 PM

LOL nice Gauss...but it's good timing, since I need help!

I'm having issues with my autococker (WGP Trilogy SF Tactical). If someone could lend a hand (either here or in PM), that would be muchly appreciated.

I had taken my marker (partially) apart to clean it, I think that's where it all started, as there was no issues prior. Then I took it out to a game, and just in time for it to start, it refused to cock, with or without air. I ended up renting, and hadn't looked at my marker again until today.

So today, I finally got some air again, and tinkered with my marker. I readjusted the IVG, made sure the bolt was in right, and still no luck. Still wouldn't cock properly. I finally took off the grip, made sure the trigger was lined up, and put it back together. FINALLY, it cocks. However, it still won't fire paint. It fires alright, but the paintball just rolls out the end of the barrel (I'm using the same kind of paint and barrel that I had when it used to work properly, so I doubt it's sized incorrectly).

Did I miss something important along the way? I'm at a total loss for what to do next.
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#435 User is offline   Legato 

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Posted 11 March 2010 - 12:48 AM

the cardinal rule of autocockers is

"if a cocker works...do not mess with it, leave it alone and don't adjust or change anything"

If you do, you are sure to mess things up if you dont know what you are doing. Cockers are finicky if you adjust the wrong thing. So unless it isn't working right, don't ever take it apart or adjust things until you are comfortable in how it works.

I think your bolt is upside down now. As to why it wasn't cocking, not sure. Did you adjust the hammer/sear lug on the hammer? You cannot adjust the three way, so it's not mistimed unless you adjusted the hammer lug

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