[ProX]

Alright... Here it is...
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I was wrong on the last post. It would run at 300psi, but once you de-gassed it and went to air it back up, it would leak severely past the valve. The reason was that the main spring was too strong and would unseat the valve. Some tinkering would get it to run, but really I decided not to bother. I bought the Rap 4 spring kit and ended up using the medium (Silver) drive and the weak (Black) valve springs. It will shoot 280fps at 350psi. Still not too bad.

Lots of info was learned from Otter's


Polished Internals
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Polished striker
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Polished Bolt (doesn't really look it)
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End of the bolt is chamfered make it seal better (against paint) and more gentle on the paint
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Venturi is removed. To do this simply remove the o-rings and heat with a propane torch (or gas stove) until the thread locker is loose and stick some long skinny needle nose pliers in there and unscrew it.

All polishing was done at work on the lathe, but can easily be replicated with a dremel, a drill press, or even a hand drill. For more info, send me a message. I used 1000 grit and wet sanded, then 2000 grit (wet), then finished it with a white Scotch Brite pad.

Valve

I started out by replacing the stock valve assembly with a 32 Degrees Magnaflow valve. I must say that if I were to do it over, I would have used the New DeSignz HP valve. The Magnaport valve came to me with machine filings on it (not a big deal) and what really struck me as odd was the cup seal - It was brass, with a delrin insert that was held in place by the pin. The brass piece was the same dimensions as a stock Spyder cup seal... I elected to go ahead with the brass/delrin seal assembly. Upon gassing it up, it leaked like no tomorrow! Nothing I did stopped it. Hmmm. So I used the Magnaflow pin and a stock Spyder cup seal. Gassed it up and no problems at all. For 13.00 plus shipping it's cheap alternative to the New DeSignz valve.
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Pictured is the brass/delrin cup seal.

Poor Man's LPC

I really wanted to keep the fake mag, because it completed the "look" of the MR1 and offered some forehand protection. What I was able to do was fit together some pipe and fittings inside the mag. I used an 1/8" close nipple, 1/8"-1/4" adapter, a 3" piece of 1/4" pipe, another 1/8"-1/4" adapter, and finally an 1/8" street elbow. I figure that with all the fittings and pipe I will have about 6.5-7 cc of added volume. NOTE: I remember Evil Fingers converting his to HPA/ quick adapt and swearing that his marker body was threaded 1/4" pipe. So I'm guessing there is some variance to them. If yours is threaded 1/4", then you will need about a 4" piece of pipe instead. This is just an estimate - maybe Fingers can chime in an provide a link to his post.
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Important - This adapters have flat sides on them. To get them to fit in the fake mag, they both need to be rotated so that the flats parallel the sides of the mag. It is tight. The mag then just slips right over it and screws to the body of the marker. After the mag is screwed in place, put the street elbow on. The mag will not slip past it otherwise.
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Number of downloads: 12 You can see that the combo is almost perfect in length.

Regulator and Line

Since I didn't have a stock, or want to run a remote, I used a Palmers female reg, their ring mount and a 6" braided line. If I could do it again, I would have used a 5.5" line, but I was in a hurry and this is what I found first. The reg was bought used off of e-bay, and I bought the low pressure range gauge and ring mount from Palmer. I doubted the strength of the ring mount at first, but certainly didn't like that the block mount used set screws to secure the reg in the mount. The lady on the other end said in however many years, there has never been a failure of either mount. I took her word for it and made the purchase. She was right, the ring mount was plenty sturdy, and I don't foresee any problems. Besides the 5 1/2"-6" hose and the reg, all I needed was another 1/8" street elbow. Make the hose connections and set the reg in the mount. Make sure to use thread locker on all screws!
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The only other thing that I did was to add anti siphon tubes to my PMI 20oz tanks. I know it's not necessary, but the cost to me was quite low so I did it. That will be another write up on another day.

My main goal was to reduce or eliminate "shoot down". This was definitely accomplished. I can shoot as fast as I can manage until I'm out of paint and never see the effects of shoot down.

The marker is little more quiet then when it was high pressure, but nothing to write home about.

The velocities are +/- 5-7fps so I'm not complaining.

All in all if you don't have HPA available like me, and you like to tinker - then for about 120.00 go for it. Except for the anti-siphon tubes I didn't need any special tools. In fact all but the polishing and tightening of pipe fittings was done inside.
If you already have a Palmer's reg, then the cost would only be around 40.00.

Please feel free to give constructive criticism and ask questions.

This post has been edited by ProX: 04 April 2008 - 11:31 AM

[Piller]

Excellent work, that should also prove to be much less stressful on the internals.

[left handed]

Very, very nice work. (b^_^)b

[ProX]

Piller, on Mar 31 2008, 06:55 PM, said:

Excellent work, that should also prove to be much less stressful on the internals.

Thanks! Less stressful on the internals? Do they tend to break on high pressure rigs like Spyders?

left handed, on Mar 31 2008, 10:42 PM, said:

Very, very nice work. (b^_^)b

Thanks for the props..

Idea, on Apr 1 2008, 11:47 AM, said:

Wow, nice. I personally wouldn't spend that much time on a MR1. How much did it cost you?

I know, it's only a lowly MR1... But I like to tinker. I could have bought an Automag, but this was fun... Besides, I will get a Mag eventually.

The cost was written at the end. With Palmer's reg about 120.00, without about 40.00.

[aqua_scummm]

The less stress will come from the fact that the hammer resetting won't be so forceful and springs will wear less.

Spyders are great for just that, tinkering and modding. Though I prefer to tinker and mod on cheap pumps

[Legato]

Don't worry bout the mounting rings for the Stab, they will hold tight. Never had mine fail, and i would use a 92/4500 tank off of it often. That is huge and cumbersome, but the rings never so much as budged a millimeter.

Looks good.

[aqua_scummm]

You have a marker as consistent as many guns in the $500 range, and your stab isn't even broken in yet. I'd say that's pretty good. And when you move from the MR1, you can bring the stab with you to other markers, so I'd say it was money spent well.


Though for $160 I still would have gotten a mag and an X chamber and anti siphon

I gotta warn you, if that pipe isn't rated to at least 350 PSI you can burst it, which can be dangerous. It's inside the mag, which will give some protection.

If I were you, I'd drill a hole in the back of the mag. Or make sure there's some sort of hole in it. That way if the pipe does blow, the mag doesn't become pressurized and then also blow, know what I mean? If the pipe blows, all the air exits out of the hole of the mag.

This post has been edited by aqua_scummm: 03 April 2008 - 12:26 AM

[ProX]

aqua_scummm, on Apr 3 2008, 02:23 AM, said:

You have a marker as consistent as many guns in the $500 range, and your stab isn't even broken in yet. I'd say that's pretty good. And when you move from the MR1, you can bring the stab with you to other markers, so I'd say it was money spent well.


Though for $160 I still would have gotten a mag and an X chamber and anti siphon

I gotta warn you, if that pipe isn't rated to at least 350 PSI you can burst it, which can be dangerous. It's inside the mag, which will give some protection.

If I were you, I'd drill a hole in the back of the mag. Or make sure there's some sort of hole in it. That way if the pipe does blow, the mag doesn't become pressurized and then also blow, know what I mean? If the pipe blows, all the air exits out of the hole of the mag.

I'm pretty sure it's broken in. I bought it off of e-bay. Never fear, I will own a Mag too... I just wanted to tinker. It's in my blood - my dad's side of the family is like that. It's not limited to paint ball either - it's anything electronic or mechanical. I'm telling you, it's a compulsion!

Thanks for the concern on the pipe. 1/4" brass is rated to nearly 900psi at room temp so I should be good. Should something happen to the pipe or fittings, the bottom of the mag is open so there are no venting issues.

As for the consistency, it can swing a little wider than that, but that's because I can't always shoot over the chrono in the exact same spot every time. To fix that, I'm going to make a chrono stand to hold both the marker and chrono. That way there is no doubting it. I think that it will be a good thing for when I get my "work league" going too.

[Galihad]

if you really don't like your valve and cup assembly you could always pick up an AKALMP one off of their site. should work for you, and then you would have pieces from just about every important oldschool paintball company. Then just find a way to fit a lvl 10 in a spyder and you are golden

oh and a front block, forgot about WGP

This post has been edited by Galihad: 04 April 2008 - 04:58 PM

[ProX]

You know they say - "All oldies are goodies".... Right?

[Lonus]

Where did you find valve springs to fit the MRs ?

[ProX]

Lonus, on Apr 9 2008, 06:11 AM, said:

Where did you find valve springs to fit the MRs ?

The valve springs came with the RAP-4 kit. You can find it as well as others like 32 Degrees online at most paint ball stores, e-bay (where I got mine) or sometimes, your local pro-shop. Look for the 8 piece spring kits... The ones that only have 2 or 3 springs in the kit most likely wont have them.

edit: I think that the MR's aren't too different from most other Spyders, so you could (should) be able to use most any Spyder spring kit. I know mine didn't say "Fit's the MR1"

This post has been edited by ProX: 09 April 2008 - 09:41 AM