Special Ops Paintball: Valve/ bolt question - Special Ops Paintball

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#1 User is offline   army 4 life 

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Post icon  Posted 27 March 2008 - 03:03 PM

I got a question, How do I keep the valve from resetting the rear bolt in my A5? I know it's supposed to reset the bolt to rear but I want to try something out. All help is geartly appreciated.

Thanks in Advance
Army4life
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#2 User is offline   Z3R0 

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Posted 27 March 2008 - 03:09 PM

Pump A-5? :P

You can probably open up the valve and block off the air passage that allows air out the back... not sure if that's possible, I never opened up the valve of an A-5, or my 98 when I had it.

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#3 User is offline   army 4 life 

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Posted 27 March 2008 - 03:33 PM

oh actually bolt action A5 but yeah same concept, Ok that sounds pretty simple, but where's the air passage that allows air out of the back?
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#4 User is offline   Z3R0 

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Posted 27 March 2008 - 03:37 PM

It should be fairly evident when you take it apart I'd think, but anyway it'd just involve blocking off the hole where air comes from in the back. That hole appears when the hammer/rear bolt hits the valve pin and opens it, so if you managed to set something up allowing the pin to still be depressed but prevent any air from coming out the back, then it wouldn't recock anymore. You'd also lower your operating pressure, so you'd probably need to add a good regulator to this setup. I would recommend something from Palmer's.

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#5 User is offline   army 4 life 

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Posted 27 March 2008 - 03:48 PM

View PostZ3R0, on Mar 27 2008, 03:37 PM, said:

It should be fairly evident when you take it apart I'd think, but anyway it'd just involve blocking off the hole where air comes from in the back. That hole appears when the hammer/rear bolt hits the valve pin and opens it, so if you managed to set something up allowing the pin to still be depressed but prevent any air from coming out the back, then it wouldn't recock anymore. You'd also lower your operating pressure, so you'd probably need to add a good regulator to this setup. I would recommend something from Palmer's.

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Thank You very much Z3R0, thats pretty much the information i've been looking for.
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#6 User is offline   gameystar333 

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Posted 27 March 2008 - 06:44 PM

or you could just port the back part of the power tube and remove the o-ring on the hammer
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#7 User is offline   slinkyaroo 

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Posted 27 March 2008 - 06:49 PM

I was going to say take the o-ring off and use a solid shank instead of the spring.


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#8 User is offline   Z3R0 

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Posted 27 March 2008 - 07:34 PM

That would work too, but it wouldn't be as reversible if he wanted to go back to semi. Probably safer though, since he wouldn't be messing around inside the valve.

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#9 User is offline   boomer_x7 

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Posted 27 March 2008 - 07:51 PM

doesn't the air go straight through the valve for the blow back. I don't think there is a port to block. the only thing taht might work would be to remove rear bolt o-ring and then the rear bolt wouldn't quite ride right. (metal on metal)
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#10 User is offline   army 4 life 

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Posted 27 March 2008 - 08:30 PM

View Postslinkyaroo, on Mar 27 2008, 06:49 PM, said:

I was going to say take the o-ring off and use a solid shank instead of the spring.


.

wait which one do i replace the valve spring or the drive spring

View Postboomer_x7, on Mar 27 2008, 07:51 PM, said:

doesn't the air go straight through the valve for the blow back. I don't think there is a port to block. the only thing taht might work would be to remove rear bolt o-ring and then the rear bolt wouldn't quite ride right. (metal on metal)

theres a port i think or how else would the rear bolt make the return trip
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#11 User is offline   pigtech 

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Posted 28 March 2008 - 06:41 AM

View Postarmy 4 life, on Mar 27 2008, 11:30 PM, said:

wait which one do i replace the valve spring or the drive spring


Neither.

If you remove the valve spring, the valve won't close, and you'll have a fire extinguisher blowing CO2 after the first shot.

If you remove the drive spring, the hammer won't slam into the valve to actuate it.

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View Postboomer_x7, on Mar 27 2008, 07:51 PM, said:

doesn't the air go straight through the valve for the blow back. I don't think there is a port to block. the only thing taht might work would be to remove rear bolt o-ring and then the rear bolt wouldn't quite ride right. (metal on metal)

theres a port i think or how else would the rear bolt make the return trip


There is no port. The recocking gas flows around the valve pin. Look at the virtual reality model here: http://www.warpig.com/paintball/technical/...owitworks.shtml

See the cone shape on the pin? (you can zoom in with the controls at the bottom of the VR display, and click the trigger frame icon to start the firing cycle.) It keeps the pin centered, but when the hammer pushes in the valve pin, it is forward and out of the way, for gas to flow back around the pin and out the back. That's where the blowback gas comes from.

To stop the blowback gas, you would need to seal that gap between the valve pin and valve body, with something like a slot for an o-ring machined into the valve body, and a valve, or you would have to change the gun so that the blowback gas could still come out, but it wouldn't push the hammer back.

It would be easy to remove the o-ring from the hammer, and or cut off the back of the power tube, so that there is no place to trap the blowback gas forcing the hammer back. The biggest drawback to that arrangement would be that if the gas isn't trapped between the hammer and valve momentarily, it won't be forced into the side vent to drive the cyclone feed. So, if you're willing to do a hopper-direct conversion eliminating the cyclone feed, that would probably be the route to go.
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#12 User is offline   slinkyaroo 

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Posted 28 March 2008 - 06:45 AM

Ok - I thought about something here for you.

Take a 1 inch rubber round item and put a hole in the center. place this rubber bumper in front of the bolt and allow the valve pin to go through the center hole. Then throw the rest of the marker together. This way the bolt can't open the valve and won't rattle around because of the spring pressure.


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#13 User is offline   pigtech 

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Posted 28 March 2008 - 08:02 AM

View Postslinkyaroo, on Mar 28 2008, 09:45 AM, said:

This way the bolt can't open the valve and won't rattle around because of the spring pressure.


Very true, but if the valve doesn't open, the marker won't shoot, it will only push a paintball into the back end of the barrel.
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#14 User is offline   slinkyaroo 

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Posted 28 March 2008 - 08:18 AM

Well if the bolt doesn't retract then it'll always push on the pin leaving it open - if this is what he wants then back to my first part and take the o-ring off and use a solid shaft to keep the bolt forward.

It has to be one or the other.


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#15 User is offline   pigtech 

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Posted 28 March 2008 - 11:12 AM

The valve spring and gas pressure on the back of the cup seal can close it against the force of the mainspring, it won't hold the valve open continually. Have you ever un-cocked an A5 while it is gassed up? The valve holds shut. It's just the inertial force of a fast moving hammer that knocks it open for a moment.

Functionally the only difference between a Sheridan pump valve or Autococker valve and the A5 valve is that the older designs are better sealed around the pin so they don't release blowback gas to recock the hammer. Those markers don't have any problems with the hammer holding the valve open after a shot.
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