Special Ops Paintball: Bull pup Ion - Special Ops Paintball

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Bull pup Ion simple yet Awesome!

#91 User is offline   CERBERUS 

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Posted 30 July 2007 - 02:21 PM

and another thing to add to your list, Ghetto: there needs to be a hatch of some sort that allows easy access to the board, battery, and reg.
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#92 User is offline   ghetto sniper 

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Post icon  Posted 30 July 2007 - 08:15 PM

View PostTheDane, on Jul 30 2007, 05:21 PM, said:

and another thing to add to your list, Ghetto: there needs to be a hatch of some sort that allows easy access to the board, battery, and reg.

hmmm how about a removeable rear butt plate

the board and batt. will be at the rear
closer to the ion the reg will have to have a line going down and to the rear

This post has been edited by ghetto sniper: 30 July 2007 - 08:19 PM

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Posted 30 July 2007 - 09:19 PM

View Postghetto sniper, on Jul 30 2007, 09:15 PM, said:

View PostTheDane, on Jul 30 2007, 05:21 PM, said:

and another thing to add to your list, Ghetto: there needs to be a hatch of some sort that allows easy access to the board, battery, and reg.

hmmm how about a removeable rear butt plate

the board and batt. will be at the rear
closer to the ion the reg will have to have a line going down and to the rear



the reg will be closer to the butt plate than the board and batt. i believe the buttplate already comes off anyway. the ion guts will have to be positioned further up in order to better conceal the longbow mag. thats why we need a hatch. of course if thats a problem, we can modify the internals to fit the buttplate idea.

by the way, is the airsoft shell you found a different model? can you post picks if it is?
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#94 User is offline   ghetto sniper 

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Post icon  Posted 01 August 2007 - 11:11 PM

here u goPosted Image


pretty much the same thing but black i like it

This post has been edited by ghetto sniper: 01 August 2007 - 11:14 PM

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Posted 07 August 2007 - 01:56 PM

Ghetto, im trying to use solder wick on the switch's connections in order to remove it but the solder WONT FLOW!!!!!!!!! i used to have a sucker that sucked up the solder like a vaccum but i cant find it. so if i cant get it to come off what do i do?
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Posted 08 August 2007 - 05:16 PM

300TH POST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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#97 User is offline   ghetto sniper 

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Post icon  Posted 08 August 2007 - 09:49 PM

take your soldering iron get it pretty hot(75%or full if needed)and touch the contact points
hold it for a few seconds, at this point pull the wires a part
most of the solder should stick to the iron
have a damp sponge ready to wipe the solder away
go in a figure 8 pattern on the sponge
that should get rid of most of it

if that dosent work take clippers and cut at the edge of
the connection and start over
you can add a copper extension wire if needed

This post has been edited by ghetto sniper: 08 August 2007 - 09:50 PM

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Posted 10 August 2007 - 03:25 PM

I've done that already. the problem is that the switch has 3 leads not wires. the solder is old and crappy so it pretty much doesn't flow at all. i would need to heat all the pins at once and then pull the switch out, which wouldn't normally be that difficult if the board wasn't so small and the solder so cheap.

i think ill just get a new switch and cut the leads off completely from the back of the board.
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#99 User is offline   ghetto sniper 

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Post icon  Posted 11 August 2007 - 01:16 AM

is the first switch's leads comprimized
damaged or somthin
cuz if not you dont need all the hassle
just cut em off
if so go with what you said
how much does the switch cost btw
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Posted 11 August 2007 - 09:38 AM

depends. they range from 1,000-contact-life to 1,000,000-contact-life. ill probably get the highest contact life that i can, but either way, they shouldnt be too expensive.

(100th post for this topic! WOOOOT!)

This post has been edited by TheDane: 11 August 2007 - 09:40 AM

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Posted 17 August 2007 - 04:52 PM

hows that body coming?
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#102 User is offline   ghetto sniper 

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Post icon  Posted 18 August 2007 - 07:56 AM

fine so far

fiber glass is so annoying it gets in your skin
and iches like crazy
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Posted 19 August 2007 - 08:57 PM

haha. yeah i know the feeling.
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#104 User is offline   Bergen 

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Posted 19 August 2007 - 11:43 PM

id buy that in a heart beat if modeled after that gun. :) nice drawings and good luck with makin it.

Attached File(s)


Tippmann A5-A2e
Spec Ops Air Thru Commando A2 Kit
X7 Lo Pro Hopper
E-Grip
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Post icon  Posted 20 August 2007 - 03:42 PM

View PostBergen, on Aug 20 2007, 12:43 AM, said:

id buy that in a heart beat if modeled after that gun. :laugh: nice drawings and good luck with makin it.


thanks dude, but it will look better than that because it wont be so long. the barrel will probs be like 18 in. but will only stick out an in. or so.
its gonna be sick!
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