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#16 User is offline   FlamingoChavez 

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Posted 10 July 2007 - 10:40 PM

Btw, if you do end up going with my hammer, and the spring that comes with the LPK doesn't work. You might have to trim the stock spring down. Do it front of a chrono, and do it little bits at a time, that will get you in the range you need to be and you won't be overshooting.

Keep in mind that getting a good velocity is an outcome of three things coming together
1) The spring being the right strength (so it forces the hammer into the valve just hard enough to get the correct amount of air through, the stronger the spring the lower the pressure you need)
2) The power tube screw being set right
3) The input pressure

Because you have a three variable equation, there are multiple settings you can run at that will give you the same results.

Now that you've got a LPK, and I assume a reg, you can screw around with all three of these. Its my opinion that the power tube screw should be set as far out as possible, and you should do your fine adjustments with your reg's pressure adjustment. This gives me the most consistency possible with my A5 (which I do have a LPK for), and the 98 is close enough to it so that its safe to assume it'll work the same way.
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#17 User is offline   Small Block 

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Posted 11 July 2007 - 10:08 PM

I did mine the same way Dark Shadow Hunter is talking about. I used the Dark Horizon hammer too.

As far as setting up the spring/power tube and all, I used the stiffest maddman spring (red?) and had to keep the velocity screw turned in alittle. At first I had it set so the velocity screw was flush with the powertube . It would fire fine that way with a ball in there, but with out a ball there wasn't enough back pressure to re-cock the marker so it would just cycle 4-5 times before finally catching.

Here's a pic of the way I have it set up

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^^No more front grip!^^ Hope this helps you some more!
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#18 User is offline   Dark Shadow Hunter 

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Posted 11 July 2007 - 10:57 PM

Nice set up small block.

Pyrophoria, just for your information Small Block used a female stabalizer on his set up.
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#19 User is offline   Nemidaelius 

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Posted 12 July 2007 - 06:52 PM

I had this old expansion chamber that came with my (used) A-5, and I've been thinking about doing a DIY LPK for a while, and inspiration hit me... I opened up the x-chamber, removed the baffles, and drilled the outlet hole out for higher flow.

Presto! It's now a hollow cylinder with a 1/8" inlet at the bottom and an outlet at the top that I drilled to 3/16". It might not work *quite* as well as the LPK's LPC, but I hope it'll do.

Leaves me wondering where I'm going to mount the reg, though.

So... What I need to know: (I'm trying to get my A-5 to operate somewhere in the 200-400 PSI range)
What would you say the best way to increase the flow of the air channels on an A-5 valve is?
Where can I get a valve spring that'd work well in that pressure range?
Where can I get a hammer spring that'd work well in that pressure range?
How much should I lighten the stock A-5 hammer by?

Also, would a Palmers Fatty or AKA 2liter allow enough flow to obviate the need for a LPC?

Here's what I have available to work with:
A drill press that *should* be in operation soon, failing that, a big-butt Black & Decker corded drill.
Various wrenches and pliers
some clamps
bench vise
bench grinder
files

Thanks in advance for any help you can give!

This post has been edited by Nemidaelius: 12 July 2007 - 06:57 PM

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#20 User is offline   Dark Shadow Hunter 

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Posted 12 July 2007 - 08:06 PM

Do you have a stock on your marker? If so what kind? Depening on the type of stock you may be able to put a direct stabalizer in the stock. If it is a carbine stock check the 98C air-thru link in my sig. Granted it is a 98C and not an A-5, but it should at least help. If you have a SAW stock check out GH Militiaman's Palmerized SAW stock how to thread.

Another option is to get the Telman 2 rail mount from UMS and mount the reg behind the cyclone. Check out Beaker's LPK set up for more info on this.

This post has been edited by Dark Shadow Hunter: 12 July 2007 - 08:11 PM

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#21 User is offline   Small Block 

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Posted 12 July 2007 - 08:11 PM

View PostDark Shadow Hunter, on Jul 12 2007, 11:06 PM, said:

Another option is to get the Telman 2 rail mount from UMS and mount the reg behind the cyclone.


Thanks for the comment.

I used the same idea as the T2 mount from the UMS, I just bought the pieces seperate ,cut, & fit things as needed. Of coarse that was only cause UMS didn't have the T2 on the site at the time! :P
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#22 User is offline   Nemidaelius 

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Posted 12 July 2007 - 10:48 PM

As far as the reg goes:

I want to either get a high-flow reg and mount it right on the tombstone, dispensing with a LPC, or stick it someplace else in my existing setup. My stock is an air-through bottomline-mounted aluminum T-stock, I like it very much. I don't want to stick a rail on top, because my sight is sitting up there, and it comes up to eye level *perfectly* at the height it's presently at.

I sort of thought about putting the reg directly on the tank (which I carry in a specops leg pouch), and allowing my remote to act as an air reservoir in place of a LPC.

I also wondered if there might be any regs, possibly small ones, that might fit in between the LPC and the bottomline.

Are there any regs that might mount directly onto the bottom of my grip (with the help of an A-5 bottomline adaptor) with female ASA threads that I could mount my stock directly to, that are sturdy enough to hold it?

[edit]
Do you think this setup would be sturdy enough to mount my stock to?
http://www.palmer-pursuit.com/ecom/product...products_id/402

This post has been edited by Nemidaelius: 12 July 2007 - 11:02 PM

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#23 User is offline   FlamingoChavez 

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Posted 13 July 2007 - 05:35 AM

There used to be, Palmer's Pursuit Shop makes a female reg that they used to have an under grip mounting kit available for (which you just linked to). According to a recent email I got from them, maybe a week and a half ago, they had lost their source for the kit parts. They didn't have a link posted on their site to that A5 female stabilizer kit either though, so its possible that they have gotten their source back since I talked to them. If so, that will absolutely work for an A5 with the addition of a grip adapter (see my link below).

Its pretty much a ring that you could screw into an adapter like this one: LAPCO A-5 Mount where a normal drop forward would fit. I'm going to do this myself, and I think the easiest way to do it, if the kit still isn't available, would be get the shortest site rail I can find and screw/epoxy, it into the the mount. Then, you can get a site ring at any sporting goods store that will fit on it, and hold your reg in place. I've had a descent amount of time to think it through. Hope that helps.

View PostNemidaelius, on Jul 12 2007, 06:52 PM, said:

I had this old expansion chamber that came with my (used) A-5, and I've been thinking about doing a DIY LPK for a while, and inspiration hit me... I opened up the x-chamber, removed the baffles, and drilled the outlet hole out for higher flow.

Presto! It's now a hollow cylinder with a 1/8" inlet at the bottom and an outlet at the top that I drilled to 3/16". It might not work *quite* as well as the LPK's LPC, but I hope it'll do.


This is exactly what I'm planning on doing... just with the MP5 expansion chamber.
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#24 User is offline   Nemidaelius 

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Posted 13 July 2007 - 01:14 PM

I'm seriously considering going with the Stab Fatty instead, and putting it directly on the tombstone, and either attaching my remote's quick disconnect directly to the fatty or running steel braided cable to the bottomline, and attaching the QD to the air-thru stock.

So, the important question for that is this: Will a Fatty be able to supply enough flow to operate an A-5 at under 400 PSI?

Also:
Will it even be feasible to get an A-5 to run under 400 PSI?
Might I be better of with an AKA 2-liter instead of a Fatty

[edit]
I'm now thinking about an AKA Sidewinder with a long top. The extension on the top acts as an air reservoir, on top of the Sidewinder's reputed high flow. I'm figuring this might make it a good choice; it doesn't have the super fast recharge of the 2-liter, but I never shoot at a high ROF, so I'm unlikely to need the 2-liter.
Thoughts?

This post has been edited by Nemidaelius: 13 July 2007 - 03:46 PM

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#25 User is offline   Small Block 

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Posted 13 July 2007 - 06:39 PM

I'd stay away from the Fatty. You might have the marker operate on a low enough pressure but you're cutting it close .

Check this out

http://www.undergroundmodshop.com/forums/v...read.php?t=1621

That may give you an idea , it's got some photos in there too to see how things come out when finished.
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#26 User is offline   Nemidaelius 

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Posted 14 July 2007 - 12:22 PM

Well.. The idea here is to avoid paying for a LPK.
I'm currently thinking I'll slap on a Sidewinder and see how much I can lower my operating pressure through various modifications.

The one thing I worry about is the post-regulated volume. A sidewinder can go up to 750 PSI, so I'm not worrying too much about the pressure. It also comes with an extender that connects it to the ASA, which holds some post-regulated volume, but I'm not sure if it'll be enough. I may end up connecting the sidewinder upstream of the ASA with my expansion chamber turned LPC downstream of the reg and screwed into the tombstone. I'm not sure where I would mount the reg, in this case.
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#27 User is offline   Pyrophoria 

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Posted 14 July 2007 - 04:19 PM

Okay...I'm looking at my 98c valve assembly right now. So the LPK valve has deeper channels milled on the sides for better air flow, right? How deep are those? And how the heck are you supposed to dissemble this thing!?
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#28 User is offline   Nemidaelius 

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Posted 15 July 2007 - 02:05 PM

That's disassemble.

For a M98c, it works like this:

You first remove the left receiver half, then get the hammer & bolt & stuff out of the way.

Next, you remove the two screws in the right receiver half that hold the valve and power tube in place.

Now use a crescent wrench to unscrew the braided cable where it attaches to the bottom of the valve/power tube.

Now the valve and power tube are no longer secured, but it'll still be difficult to get the valve out of the p-tube. You'll want to hold the power tube in your hand and slam your hand (NOT the power tube itself, only your hand should actually be hitting whatever it is!) into something, so as to get the valve to slide out the back of the power tube. Be careful with the power tube, they are semi-fragile.

Once you have the valve out, I think there's a snap ring on the front of the valve (the end that would be facing forward if it were in the marker) that you have to remove to get the internals out. Beware, there's a spring in there and stuff could fly out. I'm not 100% certain of how this works as I never disassembled my M98c's valve, only my A-5's valve.
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#29 User is offline   Slivers 

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Posted 30 July 2007 - 01:26 PM

Hey Pyrophoria,

Found this lurking on that model 98 forum you cited, searching the forums (this link is now in my bookmarks btw :happy: ).
http://model98.org/f...hp?topic=6105.0

This is a complete dissection of the LPK system, especially the valve assembly. To answer your questions, the three valve channels need to be about 0.105", and the valve spring is lighter requiring something like a spring guide.

Hope that helps!
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