Special Ops Paintball: Importance of upgrades? - Special Ops Paintball

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Importance of upgrades? just got my new cocker... Rate Topic: -----

#1 User is offline   Yakkers 

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Posted 25 March 2009 - 05:37 PM

I just got my new Trilogy Sport cocker and since I'm tight on money, I can only get a few upgrades at a time and will most likely be playing between upgrades. I can probably afford one by next time I play, so I'm thinking either a revvy or a new barrel. Anyways, here's the list of ups I plan to be getting, put them in the order you think is most important.

- JJ Ceramic Barrel
- Revolution hopper
- HPA tank (using co2 right now)
- drop forward

And I'm set on the revvy for a hopper, I just need the old school vl200 looks or it doesn't even feel like paintball. I probably cant shoot any faster than 8 to 10 bps, will a vl200 cover that? I just hate the feeling of regulating my shooting speed out of the fear of chopping a ball. And with a revvy, would I be able to outshoot it?
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#2 User is offline   Ecellg 

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Posted 25 March 2009 - 05:44 PM

I'm going to add 'paintballs' to that list, and then bump it to #1. Seriously. Go out and play with the marker before you go upgrading it. Once you play with it, determine what it needs and upgrade it to what you determine. That or just upgrade the entire marker, but only after you play with it.

This post has been edited by Ecellg: 25 March 2009 - 05:45 PM

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#3 User is offline   sipbgod94 

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Posted 25 March 2009 - 05:50 PM

View PostEcellg, on Mar 25 2009, 08:44 PM, said:

I'm going to add 'paintballs' to that list, and then bump it to #1. Seriously. Go out and play with the marker before you go upgrading it. Once you play with it, determine what it needs and upgrade it to what you determine. That or just upgrade the entire marker, but only after you play with it.



^ hes got it right pretty much. If we were getting specific however yes a revvy can do 10-12 bps so you'll be fine. A drop probably isn't neccesary for a trilly but after you play with it if you want one then go ahead. J&J barrels are great for the price if you feel the need to upgrade your barrel but DO NOT upgrade anything just because other people have or you think you should. Do it because you have experience with that part of the marker and want more from it or want to fix it.
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#4 User is offline   flyweightnate 

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Posted 26 March 2009 - 11:25 PM

CO2 is fine on a Sport. In fact, it can outperform HPA sometimes.

Look into a .685 CP instead of a JJ. Smaller bore is almost universally better, at similar cost.

Learn to hold that trigger back a long time if you have feed problems. Nobody wants a shortstroke.
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#5 User is offline   Yakkers 

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Posted 22 April 2009 - 08:24 PM

I played with my gun and I decided a drop forward is in order. I've seen some really cheap ones on ebay, but what I don't get it when a drop is put on, what happens with the long braided hose? It doesn't look like it would bend enough to fit, so it there a way to shorten the hose or should I just not worry about it?

Edit: This is the drop forward I'm looking at, are the three holes at the bottom different than what the gun's standard ASA attaches to?

http://cgi.ebay.com/32-Degrees-Rail-Drop-F...%3A1%7C294%3A50

This post has been edited by Yakkers: 22 April 2009 - 08:31 PM

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#6 User is offline   slinkyaroo 

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Posted 23 April 2009 - 08:06 AM

There's 3 holes because it can use a rail ASA or bolt on ASA. It'll work.

I'm also with Fly on a CP barrell over a J&J. I would look at a .689 or smaller. J&J bore sizes are inconsistant between barrels.


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#7 User is offline   Yakkers 

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Posted 23 April 2009 - 02:58 PM

Posted Image

Just double checking before I order, I'm not using an aftermarket asa made to attach to a drop, just the piece that attaches to the bottom of the grip, exactly like the two screws in the top of the pic.

So would that same piece attach to the two outer holes on the bottom side of the drop forward? I just want to make sure I made myself clear enough.
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#8 User is offline   slinkyaroo 

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Posted 23 April 2009 - 03:01 PM

It'll work.
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#9 User is offline   headhunter2 

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Posted 24 April 2009 - 05:16 AM

Yes the drop forward you have decided on will work just fine. As far as the asa hose you will need to either have it bend down to the drop or if you were running HPA you could put macro line on it which will not work with CO2 because the cold of the CO2 cause the macro line to expand and contract and makes the fittings wear out and leak.


As for a barrel I personally like the J&J over all other low price barrels.
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#10 User is offline   flyweightnate 

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Posted 26 April 2009 - 04:38 PM

View Postheadhunter2, on Apr 24 2009, 08:16 AM, said:

As far as the asa hose you will need to either have it bend down to the drop or if you were running HPA you could put macro line on it which will not work with CO2 because the cold of the CO2 cause the macro line to expand and contract and makes the fittings wear out and leak.


It more has to do with the bunathane seals not handling liquid well... but either way, braided stainless line will serve you much better. Use Blue (not red) loctite on all fittings, and give it at least 3 hours to cure. Thread tape can be a real pain if it gets inside the gun, so avoid using it.

I'd vote for CP over JJ- cheaper, and available in .685, which is a big deal for a cocker. But I already said that.
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#11 User is offline   headhunter2 

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Posted 27 April 2009 - 12:06 PM

Yeah thats kinda what I meant by expanding and contracting. The fittings actually wear out not the macro line. I always run braided stainless on Co2 markers and the regular old white thread locker that you can get any and every where works just fine instead of the more expensive loctite. I also discourage the use of thread tape as it is not that easy to work with on smaller threads.


I guess barrell just comes down to preference on this one. As stated before the best route when purchasing a barrel is always a kit with multiple fronts and backs to allow for better paint to bore matching.
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#12 User is offline   Yakkers 

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Posted 30 April 2009 - 12:39 PM

As I was expecting, I'm having trouble getting the drop forward on because the hose won't curl up enough for it to fit. It will fit with a lot of resistance, but the hose gets folded into such a tight "S" that the hose starts to buckle in a little, is that a problem? Or any other workarounds? It seems It would fit fine if I could unscrew the hose from the bottom of the gas thru grip clockwise a little, but it's glued in. I added a pic for refernce.
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#13 User is offline   headhunter2 

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Posted 01 May 2009 - 06:23 AM

You are going to have to get the hose shortened to make it work. I would suggest taking it to your local pro shop and having them alter the braided hose as it is easy to ruin it.

It will create a problem if the asa line starts to bend in on itself as that will restrict the flow of Co2 to the marker.
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#14 User is offline   flyweightnate 

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Posted 04 May 2009 - 08:45 PM

Use a pocket torch to heat the fitting that goes into your ASA. This should loosen the red loctite, so you can rotate it 90*, so the hose doesn't need to bend.
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