Special Ops Paintball: Palmerized S.A.W. Stock and Custom Low Pressure Kit - Special Ops Paintball

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Palmerized S.A.W. Stock and Custom Low Pressure Kit A How To Guide

#1 User is offline   GH Militia Man 

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Posted 04 March 2007 - 06:57 PM

This is a step by step walk through of how to make a Palmerized Air-Thru S.A.W. stock, custom Low Pressure Kit installation, and trimming to fit a Special Ops™ Fore-grip. If you are interested in doing this modification, but do not feel that you are capable of doing it with your own skills, then feel free to PM me and we could work out an agreement to have me build this stoff at a reasonable fee.
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for more information on my marker specifically click on this link


Palmerized Stock

Parts to get started:
1x Remote Nipple
1x Dual Female 1/8in NPT adapter
2x 90° macroline fittings
1x Palmer Direct Stabilizer
1x Triple Female 1/8in NPT adapter
1x straight macroline fittings
1x 1/8in NPT pressure gauge
About 2ft of macro line
1x S.A.W. stock
1x 1.5in 1/8in diameter machine screw

Tools to get started:
8in crescent wrench
Phillips screw driver
Flat head screw driver
1/8in drill bit
1/4in drill bit
7/16in drill bit
Power drill
Bench vise
small wire snips
Hack saw or dremel tool
Locktite® Thread locker or other type of thread sealant
Customized 9/16in open end wrench†
Angle grinder or other type of grinder†

†this will be discussed thoroughly later on

Step #1
Make opening for macroline

Place the SAW stock in the vice and drill directly into the small flat surface behind the stock adapter at about a 25° angle from the center of the stock about 1/2in up from the bottom (figure A1.1). Go in about an inch or until you feel it break through. Remove the butt plate with a screw driver so that any shavings fall out. This can be done to either side as this is just a preference. I went with right side (same side as the cyclone) to produce a clean look of the left side, but this can be done on the left side to adaptable with the Special Ops custom tombstone.

Figure A1.1
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Step #2
Reinforcing the stock adapter

After you drill the hole for the macro line you may notice some wiggle between the stock adapter and the rest of the stock. To fix this problem drill 1/8in hole about 1/2in above the compression pin that holds the stock to the adapter. Once drilled screw the machine screw in to the point that it is flush with the opposite side and use a hacksaw or dremel tool to remove the head of the screw and excess threads. Make sure that you use a screw that fits snuggly in the hole so this it will not come out in any way. (This can be seen in figure A1.1 where the small silver dot is)

Step #3
Assembly of the Palmer and fittings

Attach the various parts in this order as seen in the picture with thread sealant (figure A3.1)

Dual Female 1/8in NPT adapter -> 90° macroline fitting ->Macro Line* -> Direct Palmer Stabilizer -> Triple Female 1/8in NPT adapter† -> straight macroline fitting

* the length of this piece of macro line depends on the placement of all your holes but in the case of my setup it was approximately 2 and 7/8 inches long, there with be a time for adjustment later.

† The Triple Female adapter needs to make a right angle with the macro fitting going into the palmer. It does not matter in which way, as this is another thing that is user preference.

Figure A3.1
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Step #4
Gauge placement


This step was a little tricky when I did this, but now I can give you all nice number to work with. To find the location for the gauge hole measure 5 and 23/32 inches from the back top corner and 6 and 3/16 inches from the back bottom corner of the stock. Where these two measurments meet is the location of the hole. To ensure location line up everything to check. For ease of use take your longest piece of macroline and slide it through the hole you made in the stock. When it has gotten far enough back connect it to the straight macro fitting in your palmer configuration. Slide everything into your stock to the point where it is snug. Take reference as to how much of the palmer hangs out of the back and at what angle it makes with the stock. Remove the Palmer system and set it on top of the stock to get an idea of where the hole for the gauge is (figure A4.1). Once you are confident with the gauge location start with a small drill bit and make your way through, but do not drill through when you have the Palmer still inside. Once you drilled your initial hole, put the palmer fack inside, and hold it under a strong light and look to find the accuracy of your hole. Repeat this step with a gradually larger drill bit to the point of using a 7/16in drill bit (figure A4.2).

Figure A4.1
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Figure A4.2
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Step #5
Remote Nipple Placement

With the stock firmly mounted upside down, and no internals in it, decide where you would like to place the hole for the remote nipple. I would recommend between 1/2in to a 1in from the back of the stock. As with the gauge hole start with a small drill bit as a pilot hole, and work your way up to 7/16in drill bit to ensure proper placement.

Step #6a
Tool manufacturing

Due to the limited width of the stock it is very hard to get a tool around fittings in the stock. The most essential time for using a tool while the fittings are in the stock is when you must attach the Dual Female 1/8in adapter to the remote nipple. Depending on what female adapter you get will determine the size of your customized wrench, but it my case it was a 7/16in wrench that I needed. To be able to get the wrench around the fitting while in the stock I had to reduce the width of the wrench head. To do this I placed it in a bench vise and used an angle grinder to reduce its width (figure A6.1). This will come in very useful later on for adjustment purposes. If you have better means of grasping the fittings then by all means do it, but I enjoy having my custom wrench always there in my paintball tool box. If anyone is worrying about reducing the structural integrity of the wrench too much, well it really isn’t an issue. For this application the wrench is by far strong enough.

Figure A6.1
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Step #6b
Fitting instaliation

Now that you have your custom wrench, place all of the internals into the stock and line the double female fitting up with your remote hole, you may have to trim your macroline for this to line up. Screw in the remote nipple and the gauge. Use your wrench to hold the female adapter while you use another wrench to tighten down the nipple(figure A6.2). Now that you have all of the gas fittings are connected the air through stock is ready to test, but this may need to wait if you are also doing the custom volumizer installation. The probability that there are leaks with the macro lines is fairly high. When macro line is pressurized it pushes the hose catch out from the rest of the fittings as if you were pulling on the macro line without pushing the catch in to release the hose. Because of this, and the way the two fittings on the 2 some inch piece of macro line when trying to pressurize push back at each other. The only way to correct this is trial and error by taking out the macroline and slowly trimming it. To make it so that you don’t have to remover everything when adjusting, use a flat head screw driver and push the catch in on the macro fittings that connects to the palmer, so that you just have to remove the female adapter, macroline and one of the 90° fittings.

Figure A6.2
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Step #7
Butt-plate trimming.

As I’m sure you have noticed, the rear end of the palmer hangs out the back of the stock just a slight bit, but this is easily hidden by the but-plate. To make room for the back of the palmer in the butt-plate all you need to do is take some wire snips and cut away the vertical webbing that is just below the screw hole. After cutting at the top and bottom of what you would like to remove, just flex the section side to side until it breaks off (figure A7.1). This in no way affects its integrity, since the butt-plate is already very sturdy.

Figure A7.1
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Now that you are done with the butt stock, you can attach it to you’re a-5, by means of the Special Ops™ tombstone adapter, or you can go on to create the custom volumizer mod. Either way the macro line that runs out of the stock will need to be trimmed accordingly.

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This post has been edited by GH Militia Man: 04 March 2007 - 08:17 PM

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#2 User is offline   GH Militia Man 

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Posted 04 March 2007 - 07:05 PM

Custom Volumizer Mod
Parts to get started:
1x straight macroline fittings
1x 45° 1/8in NPT street adapter
1x Tippmann Low Pressure Kit

Tools to get started:
8in crescent wrench
21/32in drill bit
Drill press or Power drill
Bench vise
1/8in NPT thread tapper
Locktite® Thread locker or other type of thread sealant


Step #1
Getting started

The first step is to remove rear adapter ring from the vertical adapter of the LPK. This is done by simply removing the finger tightened silver screw that connects the adapter ring to the rest of the vertical adapter (figure B1.1).

Figure B1.1
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Step #2
Drilling and tapping

I would strongly recommend using a drill press for this, but it can be done with a power drill. Take the 21/64in drill bit and boar out the smaller hole on the adapter ring. Try your absolute best to ensure a straight drill, so as to maximize the already thin walls around the hole. Once you have your hole take an 1/8in NPT thread tapper and proceed to tap your new hole. For more information on thread tapping you can visit this website for help.

Step #3
Assembly

Now that you have your adapter ring ready you can assemble the fittings together with thread sealant. It does not matter in what order you put them together, but have the 45° fittings make a roughly 45° angle off top dead center of the adapter ring. To what side depends on what side you are running your macro line. Go to the left for running the macroline on the right of your marker or to the right for running the macroline on the left of your marker. The easiest way to do this is to place one fitting in a bench vise and take a wrench to the other (figure B3.1).

Figure B3.1
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Once everything is been readied, attach your volumizer with ring adapter and fittings to your marker and connect the macro line. This would be the time to make adjustments to the length of both of the macrolines, now that your air-system is complete.
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Special Ops™ Fore-Grip trimming

Parts to get started:
1x Special Ops™ Fore-grip
-either the standard, pro, bottom-line, and most likly ez air-thru

Tools to get started:
1in drill bit
Drill press or power drill
Dremel tool or hack saw


Step #1
Drilling the hole

After properly securing the fore-grip, drill a 1in hole in the middle of the grip, 3/4in from the back when using a standard, pro, or bottom-line fore-grip.

Step #2
Trimming the For-grip

For standard, pro fore-grips and ez air-thru, make a vertical cut in the middle of the grip going from the back of the grip into the new hole. For all grips remove about a half inch of material from the side that you are running your macro line on and trim a small amount of material off of the inside corner (figure C2.1) .

Figure C2.1
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Your fore-grip should now fit on your a-5 over your volumizer. You may need to trim a slight bit more material off accordingly to ensure a clean fit, but you should be set for the entire project.

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If you have any questions or comments about this project, please just post here in this thread.

This post has been edited by GH Militia Man: 15 March 2007 - 07:42 PM

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#3 User is offline   Andrewliu6294 

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Posted 15 March 2007 - 05:06 PM

this might sound like a stupid question, but where can you find a female-female NPT adapter? i've looked everywhere and couldnt find one.

also, SpecOps i think used to have a kit for your own air-through conversions, but its gone now?
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#4 User is offline   Marauder_Pilot 

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Posted 15 March 2007 - 05:12 PM

I found one at Canadian Tire. Check home improvement stores and stores that stock car parts.
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#5 User is offline   GH Militia Man 

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Posted 15 March 2007 - 07:25 PM

View PostAndrewliu6294, on Mar 15 2007, 08:06 PM, said:

this might sound like a stupid question, but where can you find a female-female NPT adapter? i've looked everywhere and couldnt find one.

also, SpecOps i think used to have a kit for your own air-through conversions, but its gone now?


All of the fittings can be found at Palmers Pursuit Shop
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#6 User is offline   Andrewliu6294 

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Posted 17 March 2007 - 07:01 PM

ok thanks.

i just have one more question, would any of these of these work? (amazon is much more convenient for me to buy from)

http://www.amazon.com/Fitting-Hex-Coupling...867&sr=8-16

or

http://www.amazon.com/Earls-Anodized-Alumi...7277926-6386344

or

http://www.amazon.com/Parker-2-2-FHC-B-01-...287&sr=8-17
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#7 User is offline   GH Militia Man 

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Posted 18 March 2007 - 03:19 PM

Andrewliu6294,
All of those fittings are basically that same as what I used, but my only concern would be that they are not rated to the required pressure that your tank puts out at, especially if your using unregulated (up till that point) CO2. I'm sure you would probably be fine, but I just say that to alert your attention to that fact.
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#8 User is offline   stickjock 

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Posted 17 April 2007 - 08:11 AM

I should have checked here before PM'ing you the other day GH... excellent guide...

Thanks...


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#9 User is offline   Suppresive Fire 

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Posted 08 May 2007 - 04:47 PM

What pressure does your gun operate at now?
With nerves of steel and unfaltering will, we shall prevail



ADAPT, IMPROVISE, OVERCOME!
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#10 User is offline   GH Militia Man 

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Posted 08 May 2007 - 06:45 PM

View PostSuppresive Fire, on May 8 2007, 07:47 PM, said:

What pressure does your gun operate at now?


In testing I have got it down to 375 psi, but I was having issues with it auto-fireing. I recently tested it out with a friends tank that out put at 800 some psi (instead on my tank that outputs at 450) and it was working great. It was pounding away at 20bps with out a problem. So, since I live only about an hour and a half NNE of Kalamazoo, MI, I drove down there and Chris, the owner of Crossfire Inc. had my reg swapped out with a high pressure out put for free. It was also really really cool that I got a full tour of their production facility, something that I'm interested in since I'm studying to become a Mechanical Engineer. But, as for what the problem was with only 450psi of pressure going into my palmer set for 375psi so that makes for only 75psi difference the slight pressure difference was just too weak for recharge rates at high rates of fire.
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#11 User is offline   KIA 

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Posted 08 May 2007 - 06:53 PM

Just a quick comment....That is one HOT marker. Nice job, very clean.
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#12 User is offline   Suppresive Fire 

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Posted 09 May 2007 - 12:23 PM

Does the palmer reg "rattle" at all in the stock?
How strong is the remote nipple? (would the stock break if you were to fall and land on it)
How strong is the connection to the front part of the stock to the rear part? (where the little pin is)
With nerves of steel and unfaltering will, we shall prevail



ADAPT, IMPROVISE, OVERCOME!
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#13 User is offline   GH Militia Man 

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Posted 10 May 2007 - 06:53 PM

View PostKIA, on May 8 2007, 09:53 PM, said:

Just a quick comment....That is one HOT marker. Nice job, very clean.


LoL, Thanks, shes a beast and I love blasting people with her.

View PostSuppresive Fire, on May 9 2007, 03:23 PM, said:

Does the palmer reg "rattle" at all in the stock?
How strong is the remote nipple? (would the stock break if you were to fall and land on it)
How strong is the connection to the front part of the stock to the rear part? (where the little pin is)


1. No, Theres 3 points of attachment for the reg between the gauge and macro lines and it doesn't move at all.
2. When I play, I don't baby it. I'm sure that if you were really trying you could break something, but thats only if you were seriously trying.
3. It was a little wobbly after I drilled the hole for the macro line so thats why I reinforced it with a metal screw and now no problems at all.
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#14 User is offline   Desertwynd 

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Posted 30 April 2008 - 06:23 AM

Hey all,

GH thought I should throw this on here to show that his How to can work with other stocks as well.
Unfortunately I do not have in the process pictures as I did this at work but I do have the final products.

This is a BT M16 Solid Stock.

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I followed the How to for pretty much everything but the measurements of course and the machine screw part. I had some help with those too tho, one of the Sergeants at work is hand with a drill. This mod wasnt too painful. I think I should have planed out where the QD was going to go a little better, I ended up having to drill through the thickest part of the stock. It did turn out ok tho cause once I got the female to female connector to fit inside that hole it wouldn't move.

But yeah, Unfortunately as I am writing this the stock is no broke, The ring that goes around the seal and connects the stock to the gun broke during my last game
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#15 User is offline   SNIPADUDE99 

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Posted 24 May 2008 - 11:29 AM

i saw this gun in person, for his adjustment the back just pops out, it's really easy to do.
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