Special Ops Paintball: Some quick Trilogy Questions - Special Ops Paintball

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Some quick Trilogy Questions Rate Topic: -----

#1 User is offline   Renquist 

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Posted 10 March 2009 - 12:00 AM

I just got off work and am too dang tired to do research. I haven't played in a couple of years and bought a Trilogy back then but it's not even broken in. This weekend I have an event to attend so I ordered an HPA tank - something new for me.

Questions - I haven't used HPA. My gun is not chrono'd right now. I'll be needing to do that of course, but what do I need to know about HPA? All the talk of pressure for this and that has me baffled. It's a 48/3000.

- To adjust the FPS on the trilogy, it's just the screw/rod thingy on the bottom of the back block right? I can't find the manual for the poor thing. At least it has a Dye barrel, unused but it should so alright lol.

- Last question - been blasting and painting some of the chrome doodads on the marker. How do I get the push rod (?) off the left side of the marker? (Rod that connects to the back block.) I gave it a shot and it just spins in place. I see where it threads on the the front rod but I can't get it to loosen up. I REALLY wanna paint that damn thing.

- I vaguely remember someone modding the feedneck. I think they cut vertically into it (as though in quarters) and then threw a hose clamp on it. Does anyone know of this mod, is it a good move?

Sorry for being a newb, been so long I forgot most everything.

Thanks for the help.

This post has been edited by Renquist: 10 March 2009 - 12:04 AM

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#2 User is offline   Weigel21 

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Posted 10 March 2009 - 01:22 AM

48/3000 is the size of the tank (48ci) and pressure the tank can hold (3000psi). The output pressure of the tank is what you would need to know. However, I'm fairly certain it'd be preset around 850psi. Even if it did happen to be a low pressure output (450psi) tank, I think the Trilogy has an operating pressure below 450psi so it'd be ok.

To adjust the velocity you need to remove the cocking rod "screw/rod thingy" and use a 3/16" Allen wrench to adjust the IVG (Internal Velocity Governor). Turning the Allen wrench clockwise increases velocity and 1/4 turn raises/lowers the velocity approx. 20 fps.

Sorry, but I can't help you on the removal of the pump arm since I've never removed mine off my Trilogy Tactical.

As for the feedneck, I've heard of two mods. One is the one you're speaking of were you cut slits down the feedneck evenly spaced and use a hose clamp to tighten it around your hopper's feedneck. The other is the Ego feedneck mod and the following is compliments of CrazyLittle over on TechPB. "You cut/shave down the outside of the feedneck on the cocker body and then stick an ego feedneck on it. Go over to customcockers.com and there's a couple machine shops who will do that for you."

*Edit*

To tell you the truth, all you'd really need would be a 12V or 9V Revy since you'll never shoot faster than 8bps with your Trilogy. If you can find one they have standard feednecks like gravity hoppers and fit pretty well.

This post has been edited by Weigel21: 10 March 2009 - 01:24 AM

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#3 User is offline   Renquist 

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Posted 10 March 2009 - 11:08 AM

View PostWeigel21, on Mar 10 2009, 01:22 AM, said:

48/3000 is the size of the tank (48ci) and pressure the tank can hold (3000psi). The output pressure of the tank is what you would need to know. However, I'm fairly certain it'd be preset around 850psi. Even if it did happen to be a low pressure output (450psi) tank, I think the Trilogy has an operating pressure below 450psi so it'd be ok.

To adjust the velocity you need to remove the cocking rod "screw/rod thingy" and use a 3/16" Allen wrench to adjust the IVG (Internal Velocity Governor). Turning the Allen wrench clockwise increases velocity and 1/4 turn raises/lowers the velocity approx. 20 fps.

Sorry, but I can't help you on the removal of the pump arm since I've never removed mine off my Trilogy Tactical.

As for the feedneck, I've heard of two mods. One is the one you're speaking of were you cut slits down the feedneck evenly spaced and use a hose clamp to tighten it around your hopper's feedneck. The other is the Ego feedneck mod and the following is compliments of CrazyLittle over on TechPB. "You cut/shave down the outside of the feedneck on the cocker body and then stick an ego feedneck on it. Go over to customcockers.com and there's a couple machine shops who will do that for you."

*Edit*

To tell you the truth, all you'd really need would be a 12V or 9V Revy since you'll never shoot faster than 8bps with your Trilogy. If you can find one they have standard feednecks like gravity hoppers and fit pretty well.



Ahah, remember adjusting the FPS now. Thanks for the advice though - I actually ordered a 12v revy on the weekend. I have an egg 2 but I think it's too bulky in all honesty, I trimmed the neck on it to sit at a lower profile on the Trilogy but it's simply too ugly lol. Better than throwing my Fasta on there. If the Revy fits that snug I think I'll just run with it. I also thought of something else that won't require modding the gun - if there's any space left on the hopper neck once in the feed, I can use some hose of the right diameter and clamp in on the feed neck and the hopper. It won't go anywhere :D

Anyone else now about that push rod?
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#4 User is offline   Side-Swipe 

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Posted 10 March 2009 - 02:40 PM

I think you mean the ram, its probably locktited into the body so you will need to heat up the threads thoroughly with a lighter then try to unscrew it.
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#5 User is offline   splntercell 

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Posted 10 March 2009 - 07:45 PM

You can also adjust the fps to a point with the high pressure reg. I think the stock reg for the trillogy has an adjustment screw on the bottom of it.
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#6 User is offline   Weigel21 

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Posted 10 March 2009 - 11:11 PM

Maybe on the competition or Pro, but I doubt it. I know for a fact that the Sport has a gas through grip instead of a regulator and the Tactical's Reg is preset/non adjustable.
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#7 User is offline   Renquist 

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Posted 11 March 2009 - 12:03 AM

View PostWeigel21, on Mar 10 2009, 11:11 PM, said:

Maybe on the competition or Pro, but I doubt it. I know for a fact that the Sport has a gas through grip instead of a regulator and the Tactical's Reg is preset/non adjustable.


The tac's reg is it's big downfall but it is internally adjustable. Take off the bottom line and end cap and there's a screw inside. Of course, it's a real pain to remove the bottom line and the end cap just to mess with the reg...
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#8 User is offline   Weigel21 

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Posted 11 March 2009 - 12:58 AM

You temporarily forgot how to adjust the velocity, but remembered that the Tactical's Reg can be adjusted after removing the bottom line and end cap?! WOW, that's kinda an odd thing to have remembered, although given how much of a hassle it is to adjust it I could understand why one might not forget it. :(
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#9 User is offline   Renquist 

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Posted 11 March 2009 - 02:24 AM

View PostWeigel21, on Mar 11 2009, 12:58 AM, said:

You temporarily forgot how to adjust the velocity, but remembered that the Tactical's Reg can be adjusted after removing the bottom line and end cap?! WOW, that's kinda an odd thing to have remembered, although given how much of a hassle it is to adjust it I could understand why one might not forget it. :(


HAR DE HAR HAR!. Yeah, go figure. That push rod bugs me, everything else (almost) that was chrome got blasted and a matt dirt brown today and that rod is mocking me lol.

I have another question - I received my HP today. It's brand new (WGP) and I'm trying to figure out the hydro retest date on it. I understand that the date of manufacture indicates the retest but I don't understand the code on the bottle lol. Anyone have a decoder ring for these things :laugh:?
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#10 User is offline   Weigel21 

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Posted 11 March 2009 - 03:25 AM

Your tank should have something along the lines of "DOT3AL3000 MO502TC3ALM207 07A08 A005780" stamped on the side. The part that you need to find is the xxAxx or in the case of the above example, 07A08 in which the first two numbers indicate the month and the last two numbers indicate the year the tank was made. Then you just add the number of years the tank's hydro date is good, for example if it's 5 then the tank would need to be retested July of 2013.
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#11 User is offline   Renquist 

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Posted 11 March 2009 - 11:19 AM

View PostWeigel21, on Mar 11 2009, 03:25 AM, said:

Your tank should have something along the lines of "DOT3AL3000 MO502TC3ALM207 07A08 A005780" stamped on the side. The part that you need to find is the xxAxx or in the case of the above example, 07A08 in which the first two numbers indicate the month and the last two numbers indicate the year the tank was made. Then you just add the number of years the tank's hydro date is good, for example if it's 5 then the tank would need to be retested July of 2013.


Awesome. Thanks.
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