Special Ops Paintball: Questions about A5 Painting - Special Ops Paintball

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Questions about A5 Painting Rate Topic: -----

#1 User is offline   Snatch_Patcherson 

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Posted 11 January 2009 - 04:08 PM

I've posted this in the DIY forum but nobody has replied at all for quite sometime, so sorry for the double post but I'm chomping at the bit here.



So I'm going to paint my A5, I've painted countless camo jobs on model tanks and planes, and I have a good idea of what I'm doing however I know this is vastly different. So I'm just wondering if you guys could throw some suggestions and answers my way.

I'm going to do a lateral tiger stripe design with a base of Olive Drab, flat black, and a light tone of brown (more than likely flat earth), I'm going to give it the tiger stripe base, let it cure for a few days, then sand it with a fine grit sand paper to give it more of a flat tone. To get my different stripes I'll use torn masking tape to give me rough edges and mask off whatever I don't want painted then add my other tones, I'll likely mask off whatever I want to remain olive and leave exposed whatever I want to be black or flat earth, and spray closely and lightly a few times so excess paint doesn't land on the other areas.

Once the base tiger stripe is cured I'm going to use some paper cut roughly to the same shape as my stripes and hold it just over the edges of my stripes and very lightly dust them with their own colour so its not such a solid line (please let me know if this method would work, ive used it on models with decent results), once that is cured I will lay reeds of grass and bits of leaves onto the gun and lightly dust it with olive drab, and forest green, then let it cure and sand it again with fine grit paper. I also have a Brass Eagle starter gun I can practice on, so at least anything I try at first isn't something I have to live with for life

P.S. I live in Northern Ontario, we are VERY heavily wooded, in some places you're lucky to see in more than 30 feet, the most common trees are evergreens for the most part.

Now here are my questions

1. Is there anything wrong at all with my proposed method in anyway/shape/form? if so feel free to cut it apart, it will only serve to help me.
2. Will Tamiya model paint (spray) be a good type of paint to use (I will be clear coating it several times once its cured.
3. Should I spray or brush on my paint? I'm leaning towards spray for a more even finish.
4. Is there any other colours I should incorporate?
5. Should I remove the Tippmann faceplate from the side of the gun?
6. Should I lightly sand the original paint and plastic to make the paint bond better?

Any and all suggestions are welcomed, and as I said before, please be very discriminating on my ideas because it will help me out greatly, thanks in advance for your advice and insight....
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#2 User is offline   Niceguy74 

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Posted 12 January 2009 - 02:34 PM

actually...i did reply to it. LOL
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#3 Guest_Cesar_*

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Posted 12 January 2009 - 02:44 PM

ok, here's the rundown...

1.) fully disassemble the marker
2.) strip off as much of the old paint as possible( a sand blaster will work best, check yellow pages for a local shop)
3.) clean everything(to be painted) with a degreaser, and then rinse with water and let dry.
4.) apply base coat and let dry( ide recommend using Krylon Professional)
5.) lightly sand base coat with high grit sandpaper(>200 grit)
6.) respray 2nd base coat and let dry
7.) mask off marker and apply 2nd color and let dry
8.) repeat step 7 for each color
9.) apply a clear coat and let dry
10.) dont touch until paint fully cures( could take up to a week or so)


for plastic parts i would recommend using modeling paint as it is designed for use on plastics.


Hope this helps.
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#4 User is offline   Snatch_Patcherson 

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Posted 12 January 2009 - 05:52 PM

So, I just got back from Canadian Tire, I picked some Krylon Camouflage spray, I got black, brown and green. Now I was just wondering what colour I could get a tan colour but with the backdrop of the woods around here (northern Ontario) theres very little to no use for it, what I'm wondering is if I got the right clear coat, I got the Krylon clear gloss. The only thing that concerns me is if I got the right clear coat. Just the gloss thing makes me wonder, though I can use a fine grit sand paper to probably give it a flat appearance, that and the paints I got are flat as well so maybe that'll work.

I have 2 Brass Eagle starter guns as well so I think I'll practice on those, if anyone has tips I'm open for suggestion.
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#5 User is offline   bob endo 

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Posted 12 January 2009 - 06:43 PM

The flatter the finish ... the better.
Satin is the lowest sheen, regularly available at stores.
I had a can of flat made by a local company,
that gave much better results than satin would have.

Cheers !
My office is the absence of corners.
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#6 User is offline   Snatch_Patcherson 

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Posted 12 January 2009 - 07:56 PM

Well I'll find out when I paint the first Brass Eagle I guess.
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#7 User is offline   Niceguy74 

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Posted 13 January 2009 - 11:43 PM

you can deaden the glares from the gloss by using STEEL WOOL. it will not cut into the clear or the paints, and should kill enough glare to make it feel smooth and nice.
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#8 User is offline   Snatch_Patcherson 

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Posted 14 January 2009 - 12:26 AM

Thanks a lot for the advice man, I really appreciate it, don't want a hack job on my beauty =)
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