Special Ops Paintball: Spyder upgrades list - Special Ops Paintball

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Spyder upgrades list All you ever wanted to know Rate Topic: -----

#1 User is offline   icouldbeahero 

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Posted 09 June 2005 - 07:16 PM

In the words of Razor_Blade:

"There is no specific part you "should" get next. It is all dependent on what you want your gun to do. If you want more accuracy, a good barrel that matches the paint you plan on using is a great choice. If you are looking for a greater range for your gun, do not listen to anyone that tells you a barrel will improve range. 280fps is always 280fps, the only way of increasing range is by lobbing shots. If consistancy is the name of the game, sometimes the best upgrade is a HPA system. Shot to shot, you will notice an increase in accuracy and grouping and you wont have velocity spikes during rapid fire, anymore. I have never heard of anyone that regreted getting a HPA system. It you want to fire faster, a new switch and trigger are a great way to go, or if that isn't enough, get a new board, like the t-board. It is all up to you. Many of the upgrades I have listed, and many of those that you will find, need supporting upgrades to work optimaly. Just have fun, and upgrade based on what your style is."

Good links:

http://www.ottersccu...om/upgrade.html

-Options-

Option 1 - Keep it stock.
Hey, spyders shoot pretty well out of the box, good enough for casual players, those with a tight budget, and those who believe in using skill to overcome any short falls of their marker. The Rodeo is especially well suited for this, IMHO, since it preforms very well out of the box with its regulator/expansion chamber, light trigger pull and a much better than average barrel. The Rodeo isn't the best for upgrading, I admit, since it doesn't have an E-grip and the reg, expansion chamber, vertical adapter, gauge, drop foward and bottom line would all be replaced (making, say, the E-99 or Imagine the best overall marker, IMHO again) Possible really cheap upgrades:
-New barrel
-Polishing internals

Option 2 - Some add ons and modifications, still HP.
-Decent Barrel (CP/Dye/J&J/LAPCO...)
-An expansion chamber, but a regulator is best
-maybe an ESP frame
-Comfort stuff (Drop foward/new grip/etc.)
-CO2/anti siphoned CO2/HPA depending on $$$

Option 3 - LP the cheap way.
This, I believe, is an under-explored path. Takes a lot of mechanical skill, though. This (with a Rodeo, Electra DX or Fenix, which come with regs) requires little money expense, mostly for tools, and once you have done it once, you can over come any difficulties easier, and you don't need to spend the money again. The things I would consider are:
-A good barrel (CP/32*/J&J/LAPCO...)
-Removed venturi
-Polished internals
-Cupped striker
-spring kit
-Trigger job
-Valve pin mod
-Valve mod
-Drilled out vertical adapter
-Drilled out stock reg for higher flow (?)
-Drilled out ASA
-Anti-siphoned CO2

Option 4 - LP 'middle of the road' - preferred route, normally.
Generally where Spyders end up, where a lot of preferences and personality is obvious in the marker. The most common upgrades:
-Decent barrel or barrel kit
-Polished internals
-modified stock Bolt or delrin/anti chop bolt
-Stock striker cupped or Dark Horizons titanium
-ESP frame
-(optional) lighter micro switch, removed trigger spring, different trigger.
-Maddman rocket/New Designz/32* Mangaport valve
-CiP 15* Assault Block/PMI Ram-Air/Drilled out stock V/A
-Good regulator
-Comfort stuff (drop/grips/new feed neck/etc.)
-HPA or anti-siphoned CO2

Option 5 - Uber low pressure, 'high roller' marker.
If you have lots of money, plenty of time, and really want that wicked marker people will post as their wall paper (Suprbugman's Pride, and Carbine's Hornet come to mind...)
-Stuff from options #6+#7...
-Really nice barrel/barrel kit...
-Clamping feed neck
-Polished internals
-delrin or antichop bolt
-Dark Horizons titanium striker or ACP Magnum
-spring kit
-At least an ESP frame, probably with T-Board/IS board/other 'uncapped' boards with or with out eyes...
-AKA tornado valve/Maddman rocket valve
-CiP 15* Assault block or PMI Ram Air
-Good reg
-Comfort stuff (drop fowards, grips, triggers, etc.)
-HPA only.

Option 6 - The One kit/Zip
Pretty self explanitory. Turn your blow back into an electro-pneumatic marker. Can be combined with options #5 and #7. Some acessories:
-Good barrel or barrel kit
-Clamping feedneck
-Polished internals
-(optional) new delrin or antichop bolt (top cocking timmy style?)
-(optional) lighter microswitch
-(optional) new trigger
-(optional) good regulator
-(optional) new LPR (Timmy or Cocker)
-(optional) QEV/TEV with adapter
-(optional) Comfort items (new grips, new drop forward, clamping feed neck)
-HPA only

Option 7 - Truely customized.
Again, lots of time and money and experience is needed, but is probably worth it...
-Custom barrel kits
-New body
-Custom milling
-Custom anodizing
-Custom grips
-Any hand crafted or custom made parts (valves, drop fowards, triggers especially)
-Modified to be a pump or autococker Shocked

-Parts-

THIS IS JUST A LIST. RESEARCH BEFORE YOU BUY: SOME OF THESE ARE NOT THE BEST UPGRADES.

Bolts
-32* (aluminum, venturi)
-ACI (aluminum, venturi)
-APM Tigershark (nylatron) $15
-AKA Lightning (aluminum) $53
-Bad Habitz (delrin)
-Bandit (delrin) $45
-Bob Long Cyclone (aluminum, venturi)
-Catagory 5 (delrin)
-Check It Products Full Force Delrin 10-32, Icepick $30
-Eaglelox's Polarbear ($45)
-Eaglelox's Sunbear ($30)
-Evil (delrin) $35
-Jam (CenterFlag) anti-chop (delrin) $50
-Kapp $33 (delrin)
-Kingman ACS bolt (delrin or aluminum) $30-40
-New Designz EQ (delrin) $36
-Off the Break Blind anti-chop (delrin) $30
-Orange $50-60
-Spudnuk'l (nylatron) $25-$30
-Superfly (shorty, quick strip, long, side, top) (derlin and aluminum)$35-$40
-Modified stock (polished,cupped,removed venturi)

Cup Seals
-NW Black Magic Cup Seal $6
-LAPCO cup seal $5
-Kapp cup seal $.50

Feednecks/Vertical Elbows
More info about feednecks!
-ACI (Phat) (slip-on) $17
-ANS (holes/no holes) $20
-Check it Products Slip on (slip-on) $13
-Check it Products Clamping (slip-on) $25
-Check it Products Spyder to Impulse feed adapter $15
-Check it Products Spyder to Impulse and low rise clamping neck (holes) $35
-Chipley Custom Machine (slip-on) $35
-Custom Products (holes/no holes) $20
-Evil Smokestack (slip-on) $23
-Hybrid (holes/no holes) $20
-Kapp (slip on)
-Kingman Java (slip-on) $20
-LAPCO (holes/no holes/slip-on)$30
-NW Paintball Products (slip-on) $30
-New Designz Low Rise (holes/no holes) $33
-Q-Lock Neck $40
-Trinity Painball Bad Habitz (slip-on) $25
-Vaporworks (holes/no holes) $28
-War Machine Paintball (slip on) $25
-crappy plastic one $4

Low Pressure Chambers/Volumizers
-32* Rocket $17
-ACI $17
-Kapp
-New Designz $22
-Shocktech $15
-System X $13
-Twisted $25

Regulators
Regulator Master List

Spring and Shim kits
-32* (3 main springs, 3 valve springs for compact body, 3 for full) $8
-Check it Products (6 main springs) $14
-NW (4 main springs) $10
-NW (6 main springs) $12
-Maddmann (3 main, either 1 or 3 valve, 1 trigger return, 1 sear spring) $10
-Shocktech (4 main springs)
-Shocktech Shim Kit (6 shims, 10 fps intervals) $20

Strikers
-Apocalypse Customs Paintball Magnum Striker 16g (n/a)
-Check it Products Low Pressure Striker (n/a)
-Dark Horizons Titanium striker (with e-frame mod? with ottersc mod?) 36g $40
-Eaglelox's Night striker 37g $30 (http://www.insanepainsports.com/)
-Eaglelox's Night stiker XL 26g $45
-modified stock striker (polished, cupped?) 65g

Trigger Frames
*Mech
-Dye double or single trigger .45
(Benchmark double trigger .45)
(Bob Long double trigger .45)
-Trinity Paintball Bad Habitz $50
-Stock (trigger jobs...)

*Electro
(-Centerflag Hyperframe)
(-Dragun M92)
(-Kingman Sprint $60)
(-Kingman ESP (dip switches)
(-Kingman ESP IPI 3.0)
-Kingman ESP CAMD $90
-Kingman Rocking Trigger Frame $120 (empty), $230 (with board, etc.)
-Pathogen frame $40 (looks like a Centerflag clone?)
(-Boo-Yaah ELCD)
(-Mako Storm)

Mech Triggers
-Kingman $17
-K&K ring trigger $20

ESP Boards (http://www.ottersccu...eye-board.html)
(-IS Board (break beam) $70 http://www.terminalerr.com/)
-T-Board (break or bounce) $60 http://www.scenariodreams.com/
-T-chip upgrade $20
-Ramping chip?
-XSF Advantage Spyder Kit $124 http://www.xsfadvantage.com/

ESP Triggers
-Apocalypse Customs Paintball Slasher $22.50
-Apocalypse Customs Paintball Thrasher $22.50
-Apocalypse Customs Paintball Lexblade $20
-Bad Habitz $23
-Check it Products Sweet Spot $15
-Jet City Specialities dual trigger, $30
-Jet City Specialiteis blade trigger, $30
-Shocktech blade trigger $22
-Sun Dragon $25
-Stock (sanded, polished, cut?)

ESP grips
-APP Stikeez $16
-Custom Paintballs Pewter grips, $60 http://www.custompai....com/Grips.html -Dye Stickies $23
-Zap's Mad House http://www.zapsmadhouse.com/

Valves
-32* Turbo/Magnaport $25
-AKA Tornado $
-Evil $25
-Extreme Rage Omega $35
-New Designz High flow valve/pin $23
-Maddman Rocket $30
-Taso Turbo
-Modified stock (drilled, sanded valve pin)

Vertical Adapters (Compact Body)
-32* $30
-Bob Long $40
-Check it Products 15* Assault Block $35
-Intimidator vertical adapters
-NW paintball's 15* Compact Block $30
-PMI Ram Air $25
-Trinity -10* $50
-Drilled out stock

Vertical Adapters (Full Body)
-Benchmark vertical adapter $20
-LAPCO vertical adapter (sonix/agressor/full body milly et al.) $15
-NW vertical adapter $17
-NW 15* vertical adapter (full body) $20

Vertical Adapters (other)
-Apocalypse Custom Paintball AMG vertical Adapter $25
-Check it Products EM-1 vertical adapter $35

The One Kit Upgrades
-Palmer Microrock $40
-Zenitram LPC to 1/8" NPT adapter (for 'cocker LPRs) $15
-Zenitram blade trigger $20
-Zenitram hump trigger $20

Timmy bolts, 'Cocker Detents

Other Parts
-Fireball Mountain Bodies, $90-$130 raw.
-4 ball push pin $9
-32* first aid kit $15
-LAPCO bottomline adapter $10
-NW bottomline adapter $6
-CP bottomline adapter $
-Plantet bottomline adapter $12
-Promark bottomline adapter $10
-32* flush cocking device for 10-32 threaded bolts $19
-NW flush cocking device for 10-32 threaded bolts $25
-Check it Products Dragon Grip $20
-Lapco Barrel Adapters $17
-Shocktech ASA to 1/8" NPT adapters $6
-Benchmark Sight rail $25
-LAPCO sight rail $20
-NW sight rail $10
-NW stock reg adapter block>drop $10
-NW quick release bottomline $15
-JCS Stocks (attach to grip frame) $50
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Bodies
http://www.spyderzone.net/modules.php?name...iewtopic&t=4761
Barrel Kits
http://www.spyderzone.net/modules.php?name...iewtopic&t=4767
Hoppers
http://www.spyderzone.net/modules.php?name...iewtopic&t=4766
Favorite Spyders
http://www.spyderzone.net/modules.php?name...iewtopic&t=4309

Plagerize this and I will break your knee caps. Post a link to this thread instead, or ask me.
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#2 User is offline   icouldbeahero 

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Posted 09 June 2005 - 07:17 PM

Anyway, since that first post has all the upgrades avalible, more or less, for Spyders, I thought I'd add what I personally recommend. Others may disagree with me, you may not like what I like, but these are upgrades I have either owned and liked or ones I've heard good things about.

When you first get a Spyder, I would recommend getting a good barrel, feedneck, hopper, and spring kit. From there it's all up to you, your budget, your needs, your comfort. Don't feel like you have to upgrade your marker unless it is some how holding you back. This is something I really need to learn... Smile My marker is way better than is justified by the way I play.

I suggest you take these with a grain of salt, and research before you buy. Don't be afraid to disagree with me.

Parts I recommend:

Barrels (I suggest between 10-14")
-Lapco: probably the most accurate barrels out there, but the single pieces are loud. The Snapshot is expensive, but very nice.
-CP: quieter than the Lapco one piece, but about as accurate.
-J&J ceramic: if you are really tight for cash, you can go wrong with this great barrel for $30!

for kits: I like the J&J, Lapco, and Sceptor, but Evil, Empire sound good.

Hoppers
-Ricochet AK/2K: great for mechanical and slower electric markers (you can out run these with a stock ESP if you try), the shell is tough, they look good (imho), run off one 9v, the o-ringed feedneck is great.
-Ricochet Apache: fast and very light
-Halo B: heavy, but very fast, shell isn't as strong as I'd like, and you need to be careful routing the wires to not pinch them, and you have to sand down the feedneck to get it to fit anything...

Feednecks
-Lapco: awesome feedneck, very secure, decent height for most agitating (non-force feed) hoppers.
-New Designz: it has four o-rings inside that makes it not even need to clamp, but it clamps too, very secure. I like how short it is (although there's only a 1/2" difference between the Lapco and the New Designz, it makes a difference in feel), but the part the hopper slips in is a little too short.

Bolts
-Check it Products full force: it's light, won't scratch, pretty cheap, and has o-rings (unless the bolt is made for your marker, it probably won't fit perfectly. o-rings will help prevent blowback)
-Bandit: same as the Check it.
-Superfly: only because it's avalible for every Spyder

Valves
-New Designz: Like the 32* magnaport, but better made
-Maddman: appearently takes a lot of set up, but it's a great lp valve from all accounts
-AKA: really designed for Fatty spyders, but it's supposed to be the best.

Vertical adapters
-Check it Products Assault Block: Even if it is over used, I like the 15* (very comfortable), it looks great, it's high flow, and has a gauge port.
-Bob Long/32* (they're identical): basic vertical adapter for markers with non-standard ones.

Regs
-AKA Sidewinder
-Bob Long Torpedo
-Custom Products (or Shocktech)
-Palmer Male/Fatty
-Mac Dev Gladiator
-WGP Ergo

I also like the T-Board, the ACP Slasher, the Dark Horizon Titanium hammer, rail mounted on/offs (no drop!), and braided line.

This post has been edited by icouldbeahero: 09 June 2005 - 07:19 PM

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#3 User is offline   trentsailors 

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Posted 09 June 2005 - 07:18 PM

you are a good man.
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#4 User is offline   death noise 

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Posted 09 June 2005 - 07:22 PM

yes, very good man

im converting to icouldbeaheroism
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#5 User is offline   death noise 

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Posted 09 June 2005 - 07:55 PM

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#6 User is offline   geofftek2 

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Posted 20 June 2005 - 05:03 PM

HEY!!!!!!!!!! if you have a new spyder xtra (xtra not extra(dumbasses in other thred) dont bother with a new barrel it is pretty good and quiet
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#7 User is offline   quick_spyder 

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Posted 02 August 2005 - 09:34 PM

not really my J&J ceramic took down a lot of sound and upped my accuracy for my extra
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#8 User is offline   OVERKILL 

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Posted 03 August 2005 - 12:43 AM

icouldbeahero, on Jun 9 2005, 07:16 PM, said:

Option 7 - Truely customized.
Again, lots of time and money and experience is needed, but is probably worth it...
-Custom barrel kits
-New body
-Custom milling
-Custom anodizing
-Custom grips
-Any hand crafted or custom made parts (valves, drop fowards, triggers especially)
-Modified to be a pump or autococker Shocked

If you do this one...DON'T EVEN BUY A SPYDER JUST BUY ALL THE BEST PARTS AND A NEW BODY!
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#9 User is offline   barnz 

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Posted 26 August 2005 - 03:05 PM

what do you have against the Rodeo? i love my rodeo.. works helluva lot better than my friends' imagine, xtra, and even 98c! maybe its 'cus i take care of my gun, oiling, lubing, and cleaning...

other than that, great job on compiling all of that.
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Posted 10 September 2005 - 11:53 PM

barnz, on Aug 26 2005, 03:05 PM, said:

what do you have against the Rodeo? i love my rodeo.. works helluva lot better than my friends' imagine, xtra, and even 98c! maybe its 'cus i take care of my gun, oiling, lubing, and cleaning...

other than that, great job on compiling all of that.

who are you talking to?
Rodeo and Imagines are the same, just one has a mech frame and the other has an e-frame.
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#11 User is offline   night stalker 

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Posted 11 September 2005 - 06:52 AM

The ultimate upgrade is to install timmy all timmy parts to make a spimmy. I built one from the ground up. It more quiet,more accurate and faster than any spyder I've seen or owned. I have a thread in My Markers called my spimmy. It has all the specs and parts I used. Thats just my 2 cents though. Great job with the list of upgrades. Spyders really are durable,good looking, easily upgradeable, and easy on the wallet for beginners. I have a Tl-X thats going lp soon. It never gave me one problem while playing and will be my backup now. Thanks for the list, I'll reference it for my spyder upgrades.
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#12 User is offline   vash_1010 

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Posted 16 September 2005 - 07:19 AM

I also own a rodeo, I agree it does work better than a 98c added barrel and delrin bolt, I felt like a newb because I like the rodeo over the 98c and imagine im glad to see that others like to rodeo, if the rodeo were made by a company besides spyder, everyone would love it, people see the name spyder and assume it sucks....
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#13 User is offline   BrutishOpus 

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Posted 02 October 2005 - 03:40 PM

Really nice job, best thing I've ever read!
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#14 User is offline   yorukoden 

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Posted 03 October 2005 - 08:45 PM

Ive got a spyder rodeo and i love it. I have a 16 inch j and j ceramic, a remote line, and q-loader (in the mail) Its gunna be a sweet setup (i also have a 12v. veiwloader hopper and some other junk) It works like a charm. I only wish i could make it look more like an actual gun (im considering a stock)
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#15 User is offline   broadsword79 

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Posted 06 October 2005 - 03:45 PM

icouldbeahero, how long did it take you to type that?
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