Special Ops Paintball: Tiberius 8 Pistol Maintenance - Special Ops Paintball

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Tiberius 8 Pistol Maintenance Complete Tear Down & Rebuild Rate Topic: -----

#1 User is offline   Jaron 

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Posted 29 November 2007 - 02:54 AM

If you're like me, it took you over an hour to disassemble your T-8 for the first time and more than once you tried putting parts back together wrong. Now exploded diagrams definitely have their place, but when you're dealing with literally hundreds of parts, how are you supposed to know which pieces to take apart and which to leave alone? So here's some step-by-step instructions covering basic care for your T-8. I trimmed the images down so hopefully those on dial-up won't slow down too much. Let's dive in.


Preparation

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It helps to have a clear area to work. I've got some old white t-shirts I lay down. First they protect whatever surface I work on ( do you really want oil, gunk, and paint shell fragments over the dining table? ) and the white color gives nice contrast to clearly see parts when you lay them aside. You only need two allen wrenches to take a T-8 apart, 7/62" and 3/32". However, I find a very small wrench useful for dabbing oil on hard to reach parts, tough a toothpick is good to. A handful of Q-Tips will help to swab and dry small crevices while a soft rag will be needed to wipe and clean the rest. Some dental picks can be used to pull out hard to reach O-rings for inspection. And of course you'll need some proper oil for pneumatic devices ( no WD-40! ) Some of the parts can use a thicker lubricant, like lithium grease, as well. I will regularly refer to parts by the name as well as part number and page reference of the owner's manual like this ( #xx, xx ) just to be clear.

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To start, make sure the marker is empty of both paint and air. Now, pistols don't usually get terribly dirty unless you use them as a primary marker. Riding in a holster protects them from most paint and mud spatter. So to start, take off any mods and other extras ( like an under-barrel rail and accessory. ) As you can see, mine is all stock so I can't give you specific instructions here. I figure if you bough some extra rails and stuff, you should be able to take them off if you put them on. You can give most pieces and basic wipe down, but don't worry about any deep cleaning yet. It's much easier to wash parts when they're all apart and you won't have to worry about getting water in bad places.


Basic Disassembly

Step One

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Apply pressure to the barrel ( #6, 11 ) muzzle and give a slight counter-clockwise twist to release the barrel. Pull it and the firing bolt spring ( #13, 11 ) out, you'll have to finagle the spring a bit over the barrel lock studs. Use the 3/32" wrench remove the front and back handle screws and the safety screw ( #8, #9, #10 respectively, pg 11 ). The first is up front at the accessory rail attachment area, the second is under the regulator in the back on the grip side, and the last is recessed under the barrel inside the main gun body just above the safety . Remove the safety bushing ( #4, 11 ) from inside the trigger guard.

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Take note of the difference in screws. From left to right this is screw #9, #10, and #8 as noted above. The large bolt up top is the safety bushing.


Step Two

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Remove the trigger pivot pin ( #12, 11 ) by pushing it out with the smaller wrench. Pull the gun body assembly ( #5, 11 )out of the handle assembly ( #1, 11 ) by slightly rotating it toward the left side to clear the trigger push rod ( a slight port side list for you nautical people. ) Remove the safety spring ( #15, 11 ) and safety switch ( #3 & #11, 11 ) by pressing in on the two sides, it should collapse inward rotating on the safety pin on the front of it. The handle assembly doesn't split into halves, it's been cemented together.


Step Three

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Remove the regulator body screw ( #10, 12 ) from beneath the trigger / regulator assembly ( #3, 12 ) with the 3/32" wrench. I find that keeping the washer ( #13, 12 ) on it helps distinguish it from the exterior screws ( they all have the same threading but are different lengths. ) Use the 7/64" wrench to remove the two end cap screws ( #8, 12 ) at the back of the firing bolt assembly ( #1, 12 ) to separate it from the gun body ( #2, 13. ) Now everything that needs to come apart is separate so now it's time to clean the pieces.


Clean / Lube the Parts

Step Four

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Pull the bolt ( #12, 19 ) and plastic washer ( #3, 19 ) off the air chamber shaft ( #2, 19. ) Wipe down everything with a soft cloth. Use a Q-Tip to clean out the inside of the air chamber, relief valve hole on the back, and the bolt. Be careful not to snag anything and leave large clumps of cotton fibers inside.

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Inside the air chamber shaft just behind the conical section at the front is a small O-ring (#7, 19, ) slightly highlighted in the above photo, that also can use some oil. If you have the aforementioned toothpick or tiny allen wrench, you can get a drop of oil on that and the rub it around inside. This O-ring is a big pain to pull out so don't try too hard or you may damage it. Apply some oil to the O-ring on the bottom of the bolt assembly ( #12, 12 ) and to the outer surface of the air chamber shaft. You can also put a more robust lubricant on the outside of the shaft, like lithium grease, if you want. While this is in the main airflow, this is a large opening so you needn't worry about clogging anything at this point. When you're done, put the bolt back onto the shaft and shift it around to spread the lube inside.

I usually don't bother stripping it past this since only a little dust can get in over a long time. However, every now and then it's not a bad idea to take it apart and wipe it down and change the lube since dust and what not can work up in here from firing ( for detailed instructions see below. ) Do not disassemble the bolt ( #12, pg 19 ) from the firing pin inside ( #13, pg 19 ) under any circumstances. It has a very precise alignment. If you take it apart you basically have to send it in to Tiberius to be repaired.

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A common "problem" when tearing down a T-8 is that the trigger assembly ends up like this. It's actually a simple matter of getting the sear back under the release catch.

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First, place the sear spring ( #12, 15 ) end back under the tab on the sear ( #3, 15. ) Then pull back on the release ( #5, 15. ) This will force the rotator ( #4, 15 ) to move toward the push rod ( #6, 15. ) While holding the release, pull the sear down into place and let go. The parts will snap back into place.

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This is how it should look afterward. Generally nothing here should really be dirty. The back side of the regulator is the only part that's exposed when the pistol is fully assembled. Take a Q-Tip and clean out the velocity adjuster hole. If the internal parts look a little gunky, it's just the oil collecting some dust and doing it's job. Give the parts a good wipe down and reapply oil between any moving parts, particularly the three parts of the sear release. You can use thicker lubricant here, like lithium grease, if you want. Put a small drop of oil down the CO2 stem ( #5, 16 & 17 ) on the bottom of the regulator as well.

Like the bolt assembly, you shouldn't need to disassemble the regulator or trigger assembly any further than this very often. However, you can do so if you feel you must without screwing things up beyond your repair. Keep in mind that this is probably the most complicated part of the pistol and it has lots of little pins and springs in it. Below is a detailed section on this process.

It's almost time to put it all back together. Clean the main gun body by running it under hot water and wiping it dry. The barrel too loves hot water and a squeegee. Make sure everything's fully dry before proceeding ( particularly the ball detents in the barrel, ) you don't want to trap any water inside. You'll notice a little rust on the ammo release fork below ( #6, 13 ) because I was too hasty when I first got this thing. If you really like, you can wipe a very thin coating of oil on the exterior surfaces to give them extra protection from the elements as well as some extra sheen ( come on, who doesn't like having extra shine? )


Reassembly

Step Five

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Now it's time to start putting it all back together. Slide the firing bolt assembly into the gun body and put the two end cap screws back in ( as always, don't over tighten. ) Slide the bolt forward on the shaft, it will get caught behind the sear otherwise. Next align the trigger / regulator assembly with the bolt / housing ( the picture above shows them as if opened like a clam shell. ) Attach the two parts using the same screw as before ( the one with the washer on it, ) and make sure the outer left edges are inline with each other.


Step Six

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Like the gun body, give the handle assembly a good cleaning and thoroughly dry it. Reinsert the safety switch and expand it into its slot. Insert the retaining bushing up through the bottom ( you may need to hold it with your finger like I'm doing in the picture, ) and slip the safety spring over the top.


Step Seven

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Take the handle assembly in one hand and the top assembly in the other. place the trigger in its slot in the handle assembly and rotate the top assembly into the grip frame. I find it helpful to rotate the top assembly into grip so the trigger push rod slides into its slot on the left of the handle assembly. Insert the trigger pivot pin back through the frame. Replace the screws into their proper places as outlined in step one. The shorter screw goes up front, otherwise it will stick up too far keep the barrel from going back into the housing. Slide the firing bolt spring back into the gun body, lifting it over the lock studs, and replace the barrel. You should hear the bolt slide back and lock into place as you press the barrel back.


Finish

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Finish up by attaching any mods and extras you took off at the beginning. Once a month put a drop or two of oil down the regulator adjuster. You can also slide in a fresh magazine and pop off a few blank shots to circulate the oil you put inside the CO2 stem. Feel free to enjoy the benefits of a clean and properly functioning Tiberius 8!

This post has been edited by Jaron: 29 November 2007 - 02:54 AM

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#2 User is offline   Jaron 

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Posted 29 November 2007 - 02:55 AM

Bolt Assembly

As I said, most times it's sufficient to simply wipe down and oil the bolt assembly. Periodically it should be completely torn down for thorough cleaning and lubrication. Here's how to do it.

Step One

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After removing the bolt ( #12, 19 ) and plastic washer ( #3, 19, ) the air chamber shaft ( #2, 19 ) needs to be removed from the end cap ( #1, 18. ) I wrap a soft cloth around the end cap to protect it then cinch a crescent wrench around that. Use a 7/8" wrench in the notches at the base of the air chamber to loosen and remove it.


Step Two

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Use a 3/16 allen wrench ( the same one to adjust the velocity and change 12g cartridges, ) to remove the relief valve jam screw ( #6, 18 ) from the back of the end cap. The relief valve spring ( #11, 18 ) and relief valve pin ( #5, 10 ) with O-ring ( #10, 18 ) can fall out with it. With the valve pin out, you can unscrew the relief valve housing ( #4, 18 ) from the end cap using a large flat screwdriver. The housing O-ring ( #9, 18 ) will come with it. The end cap seal O-ring ( #12, 12 ) can also be pulled off.


Step Three

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With everything pulled apart, thoroughly wipe down and clean everything. Use Q-tips to wipe inside the end cap, relief valve housing, and air chamber. When you're done, oil all the O-rings and seals ( don't forget the air chamber cap O-ring mentioned in the normal instructions above, ) and reassemble in reverse order. Next time you chrono the marker, don't forget to readjust the relief valve sensitivity.

This post has been edited by Jaron: 14 January 2008 - 05:47 PM

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#3 User is offline   Jaron 

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Posted 29 November 2007 - 02:56 AM

Trigger/Regulator Assembly


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This is something you don't need to worry about very often. While the trigger assembly can be cleaned as often as you like, the regulator shouldn't be tampered with more than every three months at the most. After every disassembly it will need a little break in time so don't overdo it. In addition to the tools listed in the basic disassembly you'll need a large flat screwdriver and a 5/64" allen wrench.


Step One

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To start off, use a 5/64" allen wrench to remove the two cover screws ( #8, 15, ) on the port trigger cover plate ( #2, 15. ) Be careful removing it as many springs are under tension and you don't want to send parts flying.


Step Two

Carefully pull all the springs and trigger pieces off the pins, use the above picture as reference. Start with the rotator spring ( #15, 15, ) the trigger return spring ( #13, 15, ) and the sear spring ( #12, 15. ) Slide the linkage push rod ( #6, 15, ) and trigger off the push rod pin ( #11, 15. ) Now slide the rotator ( #4, 15, ) with pin ( on my T-8 the pin and rotator are firmly attached to each other, ) and the sear ( #3, 15, ) off the regulator frame too. Finally pinch in the release spring ( #14, 15, ) toward the release ( #5, 15, ) and slide both off the last pin. You should have just the regulator assembly with three pins when done, like the picture below. If you're just working on the trigger assembly alone, skip to step seven.

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Step Three

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To continue on to the regulator, remove the three regulator sealing screws and their O-rings ( #7 & #8, 16 & 17, ) from the frame using the same 5/64" allen wrench as above. Two are on the port side toward the front and middle and the last one is on the back. Use a 3/16" allen wrench ( same as the one that came with the T-8, ) to remove the regulator adjustment screw ( #4, 16, ) and the regulator spring (#14, 16, ) behind it.


Step Four

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Carefully remove the regulator end screw ( #3, 17, ) with a large flat screwdriver and let the rest of the internals slide out. Pay particular attention to the front side so you don't lose the small valve spring ( #13, 17, ), ball bearing ( #15, 17, ) or valve sleeve O-ring ( #9, 17. ) The spring pad ( #2, 16, ) in the back can be tight to remove, but by repeatedly tapping the housing in your palm it should come out. The pieces above, from left to right, are the end screw ( #3, 17, ) end screw O-ring ( #11, 17, ) valve sleeve ( #6, 17, ) valve spring ( #13, 17, ) valve ball ( #15, 17, ) valve sleeve O-ring ( #9, 17, ) main body, spring pad O-ring ( #10, 16, ) and spring pad ( #2, 16. ) I don't mess with the CO2 stem on the bottom because it's got LocTite sealing it in place. If you want to remove and clean it you need LocTite 262 on the threads before reassembling.


Clean / Lube

Step Five

Give everything a thorough wiping to remove any old oil, dirt, and/or grime. Clean out the regulator housing and all the interior air lines you can reach ( you'll need a few Q-Tips for this. ) Apply a light coat of oil to the parts and O-rings. As this is the main airflow chamber, I would recommend against anything thicker than normal oil. Thicker lubricants like lithium grease have the potential to foul up and clog air lines. Once everything is clean and oiled, reinsert the pieces from step four into the regulator housing. When dealing with the valve sleeve it's easier to put the valve ball and O-ring in the sleeve then to slide the whole thing upward into the main body. The valve spring can slide through the back of the sleeve. Make sure the end cap screw is securely tightened.


Step Six

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As you did before on the last pieces, clean the plug screws, regulator spring, and adjustment nut and apply a little oil to them. As a side note on the plug screws, as the block is machined out during manufacturing, holes had to be drilled to make air passages in the block, these screws are meant to cap the exterior of those holes. Like the pieces mentioned above, since these are in the main air flow path, don't use any lubricant thicker than normal oil. Now reinsert the plug screws and the regulator spring. The regulator adjustment nut should be reinserted six full revolutions past flush with the regulator housing. This will give you a velocity close to the factory setting but you'll still need to rechrono your marker after doing this, not that you shouldn't chrono before every game anyway.


Step Seven

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Now it's time to reassemble the trigger mechanism. First clean off the pieces and springs. Next apply lubricant to the sear, rotator, release, and the three housing pins. As you may notice I used some lithium grease here for extra protection in the metal on metal contact ( it won't have a chance of fouling any air lines with the regulator sealed up. ) Put all the pieces and springs back in place starting with the release and release spring on the back two pins. Next put the sear on the front pin and the rotator with its pin on the middle housing pin. Next slide the trigger push rod on the rotator pin then move onto the three remaining springs. First put the sear spring on the front housing pin then link the trigger return spring between the rotator pin and front housing pin. The rotator spring slides on the end of the middle housing pin with the small end in. The manual notes say to put it the other way and I can't figure why since the illustration and the original assembly are the other way. Finish by reattaching the cover plate with the two screws. Also check the linkage arm on the trigger end. It's only held in place by O-ring friction so check that it hasn't worked its way free. With the cover on press back on the trigger push rod to check that everything's pivoting correctly.

If you've cleaned the regulator, it will take a little time to get everything reseated and broken in. After full reassembly of the marker, load up a magazine with a CO2 cart and fire blanks through the marker. I run at least two full CO2 carts to help readjust the regulator. Also don't rapid fire the blanks, fire one shot every few seconds to get the most shots out of the cart. Again, don't forget that the muzzle velocity will need to be set again.
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#4 User is offline   Jaron 

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Posted 29 November 2007 - 02:57 AM

Magazine

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It may not seem it, but the magazines need as much, if not more, care as the pistol itself. As the storage unit for both the gas source and the ammo, you don't want to have a malfunction here. So here's some basic steps to keeping the mags happy and worry-free.


Step One

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First remove any paintballs and/or CO2 cart that may be loaded. Next remove the two long screws ( #8, 21, ) from the bottom. Remove the magazine bottom ( #2, 20, ) and pull the magazine spring ( #12, 20, ) and ball pusher ( #3, 20, ) out the bottom of the magazine body ( #1, 20. ) Remove the CO2 base screw ( #4, 20, ) from the magazine body using a 3/16" allen wrench. This will need to be taken out from the side of the CO2 cartridge recess.


Step Two

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Remove the CO2 valve assembly ( #7, 20, ) by loosening the two retaining screws ( #9, 20. ) It's not necessary to completely remove the screws, only to loosen them until the valve assembly can be slipped off the magazine body.


Step Three

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Using a large flat screwdriver, or a slim allen wrench cross-wise in the slot, loosen the CO2 puncture body ( #4, 22, ) from the bottom of the valve housing ( #1, 22. ) This will allow all the internals to drop out. You can leave the middle spring assembly together, which includes the CO2 valve, O-ring, and valve spring, ( #3, #8, #10, 22, ) since these don't need to come apart. Wipe off the parts from old oil and any dirt ( especially the bushing and puncture body. ) Give all three O-rings a little lube and reassemble the valve.

Take some time to wipe down the mag body and other parts of dirt, grime, and excess oil. The valve is the only part that needs lube so don't worry about oiling anything else. Reattach the valve to the mag body. Insert the ball pusher and spring into the mag body shaft, cover with the mag bottom, and reinsert the two long screws. Reinsert the CO2 base screw from the cartridge recess.

This post has been edited by Jaron: 14 January 2008 - 05:47 PM

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#5 User is offline   Jaron 

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Posted 29 November 2007 - 02:59 AM

Reserved for future content.
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#6 User is offline   Goliath 

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Posted 29 November 2007 - 08:12 AM

Wow, thank you so much for posting this info. This will help me greatly. I'm currently having an issue trying to properly set my relief valve. I'm doing it according to the instructions (1/4 turn method) (brand new Tib 8). It's crono'd for 278'ish. After a few shots, the relief valve starts to bleed and won't stop. To compensate for this I dialed it in about 3 full turns.

Now that I have your instructions, I can apply lube to the recommended places on the marker and I can now disassemble the reliefe valve assembly and give it a through cleaning and lube. Hopefully this helps. I will give it a try tonite and let you know ho things go.

Again, Thank you for taking the time to share this information. The instructions supplied with my Tib 8 aren't nearly as detailed as this post is.

Neil

P.S. Admins or Moderators....is it possible to make sure that this thread doesn't get lost somehow? Maybe a sticky? ;)
Thanks.

This post has been edited by Goliath: 29 November 2007 - 08:14 AM


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#7 User is offline   Steed 

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Posted 29 November 2007 - 08:18 AM

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#8 User is offline   Jaron 

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Posted 29 November 2007 - 11:11 AM

View PostGoliath, on Nov 29 2007, 08:12 AM, said:

Wow, thank you so much for posting this info. This will help me greatly. I'm currently having an issue trying to properly set my relief valve. I'm doing it according to the instructions (1/4 turn method) (brand new Tib 8). It's crono'd for 278'ish. After a few shots, the relief valve starts to bleed and won't stop. To compensate for this I dialed it in about 3 full turns.

Now that I have your instructions, I can apply lube to the recommended places on the marker and I can now disassemble the reliefe valve assembly and give it a through cleaning and lube. Hopefully this helps. I will give it a try tonite and let you know ho things go.

When I first got my T-8, the relief valve would vent quite a lot as well. However, it wasn't quite as bad as you describe. I eventually found that 1/2 turn past active venting worked fine. You shouldn't have problems like this with a brand new marker. Tiberius has excellent customer support so I'd say give them a call.
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#9 User is offline   WardenWolf 

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Posted 29 November 2007 - 11:32 AM

Damn, man. Makes me glad I traded out my Tac8. I knew Tac8's were blow forward like Automags, but did they have to make it so overcomplicated? What a mess.

Pinned, since it's very well-written, has good information, and we haven't seen anything like it before.

This post has been edited by WardenWolf: 29 November 2007 - 11:34 AM


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#10 User is offline   Mobles 

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Posted 29 November 2007 - 11:48 AM

ah! great info..I will be using this in the near future :ghillie: Thanks--T-Freak
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#11 User is offline   madmike86 

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Posted 04 December 2007 - 10:23 AM

Thank you so much for posting this. I love my tac 8 pistol it's usually my primary gun. No guts no glory right. But I was having trouble with the pin on the trigger assembley it sticks out too far and I can fire two shots and the gun quits it's not catching but now I can hopefully put it back together properly.
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#12 User is offline   cyanrattlesnake 

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Posted 11 February 2008 - 10:51 PM

This is an incredible resource. Thanks for the work that you invested it has saved me a lot of time. Up until today I had not taken apart the regulator on a T8 because I am reluctant to work on complicated parts like that, but when my friend asked me to fix his T8 because I knew more about the marker I said I would try. After taking a look at this guide and thinking through the symptoms of the problem I guessed that it was a problem with the regulator. So today I finally dove in and took apart the regulator and replaced some o-rings. I did manage to get the marker working, and I just wanted to thank you for sharing your knowledge and expertise with the rest of us.

JT
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#13 User is offline   slowerpig81 

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Posted 13 February 2008 - 10:07 PM

Thank you very much for this helpful guide. It is so good that I will be printing all 15 pages of it for field reference! Or for when I don't feel like doing this :(
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#14 User is offline   Thalion 

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Posted 23 February 2008 - 12:53 PM

Seems I misread the manual then. They make it sound like you don't have to take it all the way apart unless you get dirt in there or something.

When I use my Tiberius, it's as a primary. I have had it since last November and I've never done this kind of tear-down. Am I doing something wrong, or is this only for people that need to clean out a bad mess?
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#15 User is offline   Jaron 

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Posted 23 February 2008 - 02:24 PM

The bolt and regulator assemblies don't need a lot of attention, but a basic wipe-down and lube of the other parts listed under "Basic Disassembly" I consider essential at least every couple games. If you use your T-8 as a primary then I would think you'd want to clean it more often. I may be a bit of a nut when it comes to marker care, but I give all my equipment a pretty thorough cleaning after every session. No matter how "clean" you play, you're likely to always get some paint spatter on most everything as well as a little dirt or grit in the hardware.
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