Paintballs Is there really a difference
Posted 11 May 2007 - 11:00 PM
Posted 11 May 2007 - 11:11 PM
yes and no. techinically, all paintballs will do the same thing in the end.
Department or general sporting goods store paint is bad. not that it starts out that way, but it's not Rotated at all. that means the paint tends to deform, degrading accuracy. In addition, you never know just what you're going to see when you open up a box of walmart paint... for all you know, that's four bags of soup in that case.
let alone the fact that most department store paint is thin fill, thick shell horrid crap- I've seen this stuff bounce off of plywood bunkerwalls (imagine how big a welt that round would leave!)
In short... buy departments store for live-fire marker mod checks, that kind of thing. You know... when you have to shoot paint to check something, and you don't have any leftover from your last weekend.
The 'good' stuff generally tends to be very brittle and has thick fill (Personally, i'm a fan of anarchy. that fill is like whale snot... good luck hiding that hit! even in ghillie! well, when it breaks in ghillie) also, it tends to be sold in paintball specialty stores- so it's rotated and cared for (in as much as it needs to be), which means it'll shoot straighter, and usually you're allowed to check it before you buy it, so you know there's no broken balls in the bag.
anyways, hope that helps, but it probably dosen't. I'm not good at this whole 'passing along things I know' deal, so hopefully someone who can explain it better will post after me.
Posted 11 May 2007 - 11:20 PM
But alot of it depends on the quality of paint you actually need. For most rec games, I personally am not very picky - as long as the balls are round & undamaged Im probably going to be happy. Most of the paint I buy is in the $45-60 range.
But balls that are too cheap can be a nightmare - breaking in the barrel, shooting in all directions except the one you want...it sucks. How they have been stored is also an issue as even the most expensive premium paint can be ruined if not handled properly during shipment & storage.
Im not going to bore with alot of technical talk about matching paint to barrel sizes & ambient humidity (although as you get more experience these will be more important to you). My general rule is : when in doubt, buy the mid grade. If you go out to play & the field has 3 brands, priced at $35, $50 & $65 a case, get the $50. The cheap stuff will probably just make you angry & the expensive stuff is more than a new player really needs to worry about. As you play more, & start getting experience, you'll learn to appriciate better paint.
One tip - when you buy paint at the field, the counter person should open the box & inspect the bags for broken balls. If they dont, do it yourself before taking the paint.
Posted 11 May 2007 - 11:22 PM
*by significantly I here mean worth the price. I firmly believe that the paint does not hold a candle to your skills when it comes to eliminations/winning, as long as it's not breaking in your gun and it's breaking on them, the cheaper the better.
It is of course different if your playing in a tournament or something where you want to ensure every advantage. Also, at wal mart it's really a gamble on whether the paint has sat on that shelf for an hour or a month, or if it was dropped or squashed, there's just no way to tell.
For me when I'm playing rec ball for the weekend, cheap paint = good paint.
This post has been edited by Gobo Fongo: 11 May 2007 - 11:25 PM
Posted 11 May 2007 - 11:30 PM
Posted 11 May 2007 - 11:34 PM
and you thought you had a lot to learn in school.
Posted 12 May 2007 - 05:03 PM
Good quality paint will brake on your target, not in your gun. I used to use shiity stuff from PEE SHOOTER's sporting goods, couldn't hit the broad side of the barn, got all these bounces, ect...
Then I started using polar ice during the winter. Shot much straiter, but didn't brake on target.
Now thats it's warm i use worr perfection. This stuff shoots straiter than Polar Ice, always breaks on target, and is just deadly.
But regaurdless of what paint you use, if you're storing it, flip the case over once a day so it dosn't get dimpled. Even good quality paint will become crappy if stored on one side for too long.
So you want to know why it's called an A5?
If I could assemble a new regulator for a paintball gun, I could build a liver. How hard could it be?
I'll bet you $10 the above post is telling you to buy an automag.
Posted 12 May 2007 - 07:42 PM
Posted 12 May 2007 - 11:57 PM
yeah.. i think i've been hit by a few and shouted "corpsman!" because I thought I got hit by other things. all they army guys around me looked at me like i was whacked.
Posted 13 May 2007 - 01:07 AM
Stuntman didn't want to go into it, and it is a bit technical, but personally I feel that just as important as which paint you use; geting the proper bore match is the key. Check out Tyger's tip clip episode 9 "Improved Accuracy" that will sum it up for you.
I get a case of cheap Zap paint from walmart once a week for shooting around the back yard, and at the field I use the best they have available. I have found that bore match is equally important. I can still run drills and practice with the cheap paint with few random slices (wildly curving balls) provided I used the right insert in my barrel. However at the field, with a proper bore match, I can consistently shoot laser beams out to about 100ft.
So the quality of the paint does matter, but bore match matters just as much in my opinion.
Good Luck and happy ball'n
EDIT: I just thought to add: My walmart goes through paint pretty regular since the local pro-shop closed about a year ago. Results may vary, becuase what everyone else said is also true; stored paint must be rotated.
This post has been edited by paintball valley: 13 May 2007 - 04:24 AM
If Nikola Tesla had invented a paintball marker it would have been an electro-pnuematic.
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