Special Ops Paintball: First Cocker, building from scratch - Special Ops Paintball

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First Cocker, building from scratch Need... Help... So... Much... Fail... Rate Topic: -----

#16 User is offline   Hyperion 

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Posted 08 August 2008 - 01:11 AM

K2 is the company that owns Viewloader, Brass Eagle, JT, K2 and probably a few other brands of paintball and non-paintball equipment. K2 took over and basically cut corners where they could be cut making a cheaper marker overall. I personally dislike them for doing that to a company I loved before. The 2004 prostocks are the last of the true-WGP cockers.

The Micro Rock is a little fatter than the regular LPR that comes on most WGP cockers while the SCMIII is a beast... just like the regular Rock regulator they are massive. The difference in LPRs is just that some are easier to adjust and will operate at lower pressures honestly I have never had an issue with an LPR in my life but I do really like the micro rock. A shroud would fit on my marker if I wanted it to yes but shrouds are not needed by any means. The only problem I have without running a shroud is when i get hit there it can be a pain to clean depending on how well the hit was. I have never had a hose knocked off by a paintball they are on there really well.

Dual stabilizers is possible because palmers manufactures a female stabilizer that allows you to screw the bottle directly into it. It replaces the ASA on your grip with a regulator which will allow for a 140psi difference in bottle pressure before a 1psi difference in the marker. It is like your CO2 tank would be the same as an HPA tank basically.

Your non essential parts basically amounts to $40-50 lol. I would suggest if you want a body... buy it off ebay... if you deal with FBM just contact them and ask what bodies they have that they could ship you right away because you heard they have issues from the black cobra body guy they will DEFINITELY know who you are talking about. I ordered my body and received it I believe... 4 months later? It was ridiculous... Ebay is your best choice for a cheap body. FBM is ok to deal with as long as they HAVE the part and HAVE it anodized. Then you may be ok... They did send me a backblock, feedneck, Vertical ASA Adapter, and hammer kit for my wait. If you deal with them and you don't see your item within a week or 2 get on them and don't let up till they give it to you.

Another thing... If you want to talk to me add me on AIM/Yahoo: NickMoore04 or MSN: nick_r_moore@hotmail.com and we can discuss issues or concerns there... it's easier and faster than forum responses.

This post has been edited by Hyperion: 08 August 2008 - 02:34 AM

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#17 User is offline   QuantumPhysics 

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Posted 08 August 2008 - 07:22 AM

Hinge or Slide? I read hinge moves sear back and slide moves it forward... but does it really matter? or are there compatibility issues with hinge vs. slide?
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#18 User is offline   SuddenSilence 

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Posted 08 August 2008 - 07:39 AM

On the subject of bolts, I highly recommend an Orange Bolt. You can have it customized down to the length you need, but if you're starting with a stock cocker (which are easy to find on ze internet, and decently cheap), this is a nasty nasty bolt.

Believe me. You don't find your cocker. It will find you. Mine found me at a random garage sales for 20$ still new in the box (a 2000 cocker!)

Here's a link.
http://www.doropaintball.com/ab1038101equi...exd.asp?id=8532

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#19 User is offline   QuantumPhysics 

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Posted 08 August 2008 - 11:37 AM

Another noob question:

What's the difference between automags and autocockers? I heard automags are the main competitors to 'cockers but I'm confused over this issue.
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#20 User is offline   Hyperion 

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Posted 08 August 2008 - 12:18 PM

The orange bolt's don't look like that anymore. They are white and silver with a white ring of delrin in the middle of the CF shaft as well. My cocker up there has an orange bolt in it. Automags are nice markers. I wouldn't mind having one but they aren't really customizable by any means. I don't know the whole mechanics of an automag but I do know a guy with a few of them. An autococker is basically a "Sniper" paintball marker that had the pump replaced with a smaller pneumatic block so your trigger pull makes the marker fire then recock.

A slider frame slides backwards and pulls the piston from the front to the back of the 3way and the hinge is a more traditional style trigger(in a trigger's sense) that pushes the 3way's piston from back to front. Your hoses will cross with a slider frame while they will not on a hinge. A roller sear will take the noticeable SNAP out of the firing of a cocker and it will feel more even through the pull. It doesn't really make it to where you are like "WoW! Thiz iz teh sExOrz!" but it will feel a lot more natural.

You should buy a nice 3way and change the trigger frame springs and sear out to match your preference. I went with a WGP replacement hinge because there is nothing really wrong with them and you can change a few of the guts to make it feel great anyway. The only difference in a hinge or slider is preference... if you want one or the other that is the one you go with they won't make the marker shoot any different.
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#21 User is offline   SuddenSilence 

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Posted 08 August 2008 - 12:19 PM

Ah. You have been possibly reading the Wikipedia entry on Autocockers, yes?

I honestly can't say. I've never even held an Automag in my hand. My first love was an Autococker, and it probably always will be. Possibly its because the Automags were a bit simpler in parts and design than the 'cocker, but don't quote me on that.

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#22 User is offline   SuddenSilence 

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Posted 08 August 2008 - 12:22 PM

Is that because the bolt I'm showing is made for a stock length body? Or did they just change the style?

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#23 User is offline   Mighty Mike 

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Posted 08 August 2008 - 12:28 PM

View Postslinkyaroo, on Aug 7 2008, 03:00 PM, said:

Welcome to the forum. I kind of stopped reading when my head started spinning. Mighty Mike and some others are pretty good with the aftermarket upgrades.




.

hahah thanks man.

I stopped I just don't have time to read and make a nice post for you yet although itlooks as though hyperion is helping you and he has good information on a lot of stuff.
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#24 User is offline   Hyperion 

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Posted 08 August 2008 - 01:39 PM

Haha me? I never read wikipedia I just know a lot about cockers. The one I am using now is 100% aftermarket and 100% new parts because I wanted to see if it could still be done. It was actually pretty easy just heavy on the wallet. I have the 2k+ bolt and the style was changed on them. It is white delrin with a silver carbon fiber shaft. The marker I have up there has it on it so you can tell it is white...

If you fire... the backblock comes back and all you can see is a little bit of white where the backblock is with the silver shaft. There is a middle piece of white delrin that will be flush with the top tube's hole when it is all the way back. There is an equal length of silver CF tube inside the marker then the front of the bolt starts. I will show you a pic later when I get my camera back if you want. You can also go to beoranged.com and see the pic of the new bolt style. It looks good yeah but I was kinda hoping for black at the time. It still matches my marker fairly well so I am not upset with it.
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#25 User is offline   Aim for the trash 

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Posted 08 August 2008 - 02:06 PM

View PostQuantumPhysics, on Aug 7 2008, 05:51 PM, said:

Barrels (12-14"):
d. LapCo Snapshot Kit
f. Deadly Wind Fibur
both are really nice

Hopper

c. Vlocity Jr.
Lighter than Halo with same speed


Grip
a. Dye sticky 3 grip (will this fit on an E2 trigger frame?)
NO, it won't But if you go with mech, they are nice grips.

In-line Regulator (so many regulators to choose from, did my best.... please help)
a. AKA Sidewinder
You will be using HPA, and AKA is simply the best.

HPA Tank (is there any difference between brands, they all seem basically the same)
a. Guerilla Air 68/4500 High Pressure (yay for already coming with a myth reg!)
Good Choice.

HPA Tank Cover
a. Dye Rhino
b. NXe 2008 Elevation Series
It's a cover, your choice

HPA Tank Regulator
a. Guerilla Air MYTH (4500 psi) <-- already comes with the tank
You got it.

Drop-Forward
a. Fireball Mountain Stiletto Drop-Forward
NO. No need. Myth gets the job done.

4-Way Valve
a. Belsales Performance Hollowpoint
E2 doesn't use 4 ways, the solenoid controls it. IF you go mech, this is a really nice 4-way

Ram
b. Belsales Performance Evolution Ram
also a great ram

Back Block
a. Chipley Custom Machine delrin back block
Your choice, you shouldn't have a problem with the stock one

Low Pressure Regulator
a. WGP Tickler LPR
not sure, but this should work fine

Trigger Frame
a. Planet Eclipse EclipseBlade E2 (no need for 4-way with this cuz of solenoid, anyone know where to get anti-chop eyes for this? or are they even needed?)
b. What are some good mech frames??????????????
Good ones are slider frames, most people don't like hinge ones, but if you are looking for a nice hinge, I have a Dye one.

Valve
a. AKA Tornado Valve (Low Pressure)
b. MQ2 Valve (if eBladed)
Your choice

Bolt (need help selecting one of these)
a. SLIK Autococker Light Cocking Kit (Replaces bolt, cocking rod, back block, and pull-pin)
b. AKA Lightning Bolt (this is Only for STO, Predator, Evolutions, and standard autocockers. this means it won't fit on a half-buttocked fireball mountain custom body amirite?)
c. Supa Fly? Maybe? what? i'm confuzzled.
as long as it has o-rings and it's delrin, you are fine.

The SLIK light cocking kit sounds really awesome but I think it might just be hype?
likely

Spring Kit
a. Maddman Spring Kit (MQ2 valve replaces this if i go electro)
if you go with the normal valve, the spring kit is fundamental

Sear
a. Belsales Performance Equalizer Roller Sear
b. the SLIK light cocking kit has it's own if i get that but yea...
stock one is fine, but roller sears are smoother

Quick Exhaust Valve (do normal rams come with this?).
a. Planet Eclipse Autococker Q.E.V.
For faster ram speed, works great

Ball Detent (where the heak does this go?!?!?!)
a. Kila Products V2 Magnetic Detent (what's the dif between magnetic detent and normal one?)
It's mostly hype, a detent is a detent

Low Pressure Chamber (didn't know u could put LPC's on an autococker but apparently u can... i hear it can lower ur operating pressure by 50 psi)
a. New Designz LPC
Don't know, you likely don't need it, low pressure is over rated

Actuating Rod (does it really matter what brand?
a. KAPP Pro-Series actuating rod/collar
Stock one is fine, one should come with whatever 4-way you are getting anyways

You have failed as a paintballer.
Special Ops Feedback M. Carter Brown feedback
Dirty quotes get you warned. Dang it Mike.
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#26 User is offline   Hyperion 

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Posted 08 August 2008 - 02:43 PM

hollowpoints do not come with them
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#27 User is offline   Explosive 

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Posted 08 August 2008 - 02:44 PM

View PostQuantumPhysics, on Aug 7 2008, 05:51 PM, said:

I'm building an autococker expecting that...


I PM'd you... :rolleyes: :ghillie:
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#28 User is offline   QuantumPhysics 

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Posted 08 August 2008 - 07:11 PM

So what's the difference between a poppit and a spool valve and which kind do autocockers use or do they use both?
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#29 User is offline   Hyperion 

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Posted 08 August 2008 - 07:14 PM

spool valve guns are like shockers...
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#30 User is offline   QuantumPhysics 

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Posted 08 August 2008 - 07:24 PM

View PostHyperion, on Aug 8 2008, 09:14 PM, said:

spool valve guns are like shockers...


and... being like a shocker is good or bad?
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