Special Ops Paintball: ULT Trigger Installation Guide - Special Ops Paintball

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#1 User is offline   Enhander 

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Posted 15 September 2007 - 04:51 PM

Ok, so I figured I'd post up a small install guide for those asking how to install a ULT in a mag. I just installed mine and found it to be quite easy. Heres some pics to guide you through it, I will be doing a install video soon, which will explaine more eaiser how to do it.

First off, heres a definition as to what the ULT is: (Pulled from NinjaoftheNight79's Automag guide)
ULE Trigger Pull Kit
The ULE Trigger Pull Kit (also referred to as the Ultra Light Trigger Pull kit, or ULT) makes the trigger pull lighter. What it does is replace the stock On/Off assembly with a two part ULT On/Off assembly. It is two parts because it too is adjustable with shims (of a different size). This ULT piece, in comparison to the old On/Off, lowers the pressure pushing the pin by making the pin smaller, just as done with the Power Piston on the LVL 10, allowing you to pull the trigger much easier, allowing you to walk or fan the trigger very easily. Just as the LVL 10 needed adjustment, so will the ULE Trigger Pull Kit. You will need to adjust the amount of shims (only use ULE Trigger Pull kit shims unless you know what you are doing!) in order to adjust the length to set it to the right length for it to fire correctly. If there aren’t enough shims, the marker will not fire. If there are too many, it will either double fire or fire full auto. Some people actually do this on purpose, but it is not field legal, and I do not recommend it.

One thing that has been said about this mod is that this also makes the marker capable of being "short stroked". This means that the trigger is not pulled back far enough the marker will either shoot the paintball a very short distance, or not shoot it much at all and leave it in the barrel for the next ball to chop it. This can be a problem. I plan to check on this, but I do believe it is true because it came from Tom Kaye's Prototype page. This could just be a problem with his older prototype, but it was said on the last page where he announced that the ULE Trigger Pull kit would be released soon. He also said that with practice, it would be very easy to walk the trigger without short stroking.

This upgrade will not work on any older valve. It only works on X-Valve and about half of the RT Valves. If you own an RT/ReTro valve, check the RT/ReTro valve section to see if you can use this upgrade or not.


Initial Start: (Things you will need)
1) Small screw driver...you'll see what its for later...


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Step 1:
Remove Back screw and macro-line from valve.

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This is what it looks like with the said parts removed:
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Step 2:
Slowly remove X-Valve from mag body, set mag aside.

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Step 3:
The gold object on the underbelly of the X-valve is the On/Off assembley that needs to be removed. Slowly remove it from the valve

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The last picture is the stock On/Off assmbley removed from the valve.
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Step 4:
Theres a o-ring thats left inside, it might not come out with the stock on/off. Use the small screw driver I mentioned earlier to remove it. Again, dont rush, do it slowly.

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Step 5:
Get your ULT.

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Mine came with 2 shims installed since I bought it used, If you get it new, it might not have any shims installed. Shims are the small silver discs. There should be 8 shims that come with it I believe, mine only came with 7. Below is the ULT disassembled to install shims. To take it apart, simply unscrew it and apply very minimal force to pull the pin out. BE VERY CAREFUL. I cant stress that enough. Take your time.
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As you see from the pic above, the shims just sit on the bottom half of the ULT. I installed 4 on mine and it rips for a mag. I can walk the trigger. Ill post a video on it later.
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Step 6:
Reinstall ULT. Simply screw the top back on the bottom on the ULT and install it just like you took the old on out. It goes right in.
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Thats it! You're done! Now its time to test it.

Air up your mag and take a shot. Immediatly you should see a BIG difference. However, it may need some fine tuning. If your mag is double firing, or full auto firing, remove the ULT and remove 1 shim. Do this until it shoots normally. Some people like to keep it with the full auto effect, however, in the long run this will potentially damage the X-Valve. With a valve that sexy, you dont wanna mess around with it. Like I said, I have 4 shims installed and it rips. However there is 1 thing you must keep in mind. Using the ULT will greatly increase your chance of "short stroking" the trigger. So make sure your fully pulling the trigger back when you're firing. With a little practice, you'll get it!

There you go! Now go out and own some face with your newer, faster AutoMag!!!

VIDEO OF ULT DRY FIRE TEST: ULT
VIDEO OF TAC-ONE MAINTENENCE/ULT INSTALL: Tac-One Maintenence

This post has been edited by Enhander: 30 November 2009 - 01:01 PM

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#2 User is offline   Liquid Plummer 

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Posted 22 September 2007 - 07:59 PM

I really hope this gets stickied. It's worth it. I was lucky in that AGD dialed mine in perfect from the factory (as long as I use a single trigger), but this is awesome information.
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#3 User is offline   The Hobbit 

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Posted 22 September 2007 - 08:07 PM

yeah this is stickie worthy
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#4 User is offline   Enhander 

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Posted 24 September 2007 - 07:20 PM

thanks guys! ill be doing a install video soon
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#5 User is offline   Z3R0 

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Posted 24 September 2007 - 07:24 PM

Question... is it possible to install a ULT on a Classic Valve? A friend wants to get a Pro Classic now that I've converted him to the Mag side, but he wants a ULT and double trigger ASAP when he gets it, but he doesn't think he can get the X-valve for maybe another year after that. And if it is possible, I'll just have to tell him to not rip on it too hard... :laugh:.

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#6 User is offline   DvS21 

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Posted 24 September 2007 - 07:31 PM

View PostZ3R0, on Sep 24 2007, 10:24 PM, said:

Question... is it possible to install a ULT on a Classic Valve? A friend wants to get a Pro Classic now that I've converted him to the Mag side, but he wants a ULT and double trigger ASAP when he gets it, but he doesn't think he can get the X-valve for maybe another year after that. And if it is possible, I'll just have to tell him to not rip on it too hard... :laugh:.

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no Rt or better only, sorry.


stickie worthy!


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#7 User is offline   viper_72 

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Posted 25 September 2007 - 09:49 PM

I second the sticky for this!!! great post. probably the best I have been able to find on this issue! Just for confirmation, I have an RT pro, this ult is compatible with the RT valve? and if so, does it install the same way? thanks!
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#8 User is offline   saber 

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Posted 12 February 2008 - 11:32 PM

Great walk through.. One of the best I have seen.

Now Im going to answer the compatibility question. Is your valve compatible. If its an Xvalve then the answer is yes.
The ULT requires the space that 2 orings take up in the On/off seat. Whats that you Ask. Well if you look at step 3 picture 3 there is an oring at the top of the on off and if we look at step 4 picture one you will see an oring inside where the on/off goes. These 2 orings go one inside the other when a standard on/off is installed and both are removed when installing an ULT.

Some valves were milled so that a standard on/off only needed the smaller of the 2 orings. Very few classics (I believe they were rentals) some Classic RT's, and Most RT Pro valves are milled in this fashion. The best way to tell is remove your on/off Assembly and see if it has only the one oring. If it does then you will have to have it milled out.

A warning to classic owners... The ULT can be hard to setup in a classic and may not work right.. Each valve is different.

View PostNeo_Enhander, on Sep 15 2007, 03:51 PM, said:

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Step 4:
Theres a o-ring thats left inside, it might not come out with the stock on/off. Use the small screw driver I mentioned earlier to remove it. Again, dont rush, do it slowly.

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This post has been edited by saber: 12 February 2008 - 11:33 PM



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#9 User is offline   Enhander 

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Posted 13 February 2008 - 06:12 AM

View Postsaber, on Feb 13 2008, 01:32 AM, said:

Great walk through.. One of the best I have seen.

Now Im going to answer the compatibility question. Is your valve compatible. If its an Xvalve then the answer is yes.
The ULT requires the space that 2 orings take up in the On/off seat. Whats that you Ask. Well if you look at step 3 picture 3 there is an oring at the top of the on off and if we look at step 4 picture one you will see an oring inside where the on/off goes. These 2 orings go one inside the other when a standard on/off is installed and both are removed when installing an ULT.

Some valves were milled so that a standard on/off only needed the smaller of the 2 orings. Very few classics (I believe they were rentals) some Classic RT's, and Most RT Pro valves are milled in this fashion. The best way to tell is remove your on/off Assembly and see if it has only the one oring. If it does then you will have to have it milled out.

A warning to classic owners... The ULT can be hard to setup in a classic and may not work right.. Each valve is different.

View PostNeo_Enhander, on Sep 15 2007, 03:51 PM, said:

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Step 4:
Theres a o-ring thats left inside, it might not come out with the stock on/off. Use the small screw driver I mentioned earlier to remove it. Again, dont rush, do it slowly.

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Thanks Saber!
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#10 User is offline   Enhander 

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Posted 23 April 2008 - 08:49 AM

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