Special Ops Paintball: I just want a great remote line... - Special Ops Paintball

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I just want a great remote line... Rate Topic: -----

#1 User is offline   Scath an Bhais 

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Posted 29 October 2009 - 11:00 PM

So, ok , after spending about an hour sifting through reviews of remote line i figured i would just ask the experts for the current opinion.

I just want a remote line that works, from what i understand, a slide check saves air, but they often leak, i remember reading about a ball valve (i think thats what its called), but i dont know what it does.

And also, quick disconnect sounds like alot of pointless work, seems like "quick disconnect" just makes you blow o-rings.

So, i want to know if there is a remote line out there that is better than the rest. If the only air im wasting is going to be in the line, i dont want a slide check. I dont want quick disconnect.

I want something that works.

So, what works?

I would probably run both HPA C02, depending on the day or what i had avaliable. I dont want to go through O-rings every other game.

Is there any way to have just a braided line that connects to my ASA and screws into the tank like it would on a marker/tank without the line?

Any help here would be awsome, i just want something that works, i need to know what works, consistently.

Thanks

This post has been edited by Scath an Bhais: 29 October 2009 - 11:01 PM

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#2 User is offline   Piller 

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Posted 29 October 2009 - 11:35 PM

Ball valves serve the same function as slide checks, but the design proves to be much more reliable. They use less o-rings, (if any?) and are bit easier to use: http://www.palmer-pursuit.com/cart/index.p...products_id=116 The only downside is that they are a bit more bulky, but small enough in my opinion, and shorter.

Having a quick disconnect with a ball valve/slide check does save a bit of air when placed up by the marker. Most hoses hold about 10-20 shots worth. Some may argue that they actually save o-rings. Otherwise, every time you want to set down the marker or otherwise disconnect you have to turn off the air and shoot out the remaining air in the hose. Just turning off your air and unscrewing the remote from the marker lets all of the air out of the hose and there's a good chance you'll blow an ASA o-ring.

You can simply buy a long stainless braided hose, put a male ASA at one end and On/Off at the other. If that turns out to be a problem you can always add on a quick disconnect and/or ball valve whenever you want.

Palmer's Pursuit shop sells really high quality air pieces. They're stainless braided line has a very fine weave and is relatively very flexible. They're parts are top notch. The price is pretty high, but the quality is definitely superior to the pieces used on pre-fabricated remote line kits.
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#3 User is offline   5N1P3R 

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Posted 30 October 2009 - 05:31 AM

The Special Ops Remote is supposed to be really nice, but apparently the slide check O-rings break easily, but they have replacement ones.

I like my Ninja one. It had a small leak, so I called Ninja, and am sending mine it to get it repaired. What I like about the Ninja one is that it isn't that bright, heavy stainless stell stuff. Its a sleek black, but I can't tell you what type of material it is....
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Posted 30 October 2009 - 06:44 AM

View Post5N1P3R, on Oct 30 2009, 06:31 AM, said:

The Special Ops Remote is supposed to be really nice, but apparently the slide check O-rings break easily, but they have replacement ones.

I like my Ninja one. It had a small leak, so I called Ninja, and am sending mine it to get it repaired. What I like about the Ninja one is that it isn't that bright, heavy stainless stell stuff. Its a sleek black, but I can't tell you what type of material it is....


We just got a new batch of remotes in. These are supposed to have much higher quality o-rings in them as we had stressed that it had to improve. I haven't had a chance to test them out myself yet.
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#5 User is offline   Jackson 

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Posted 30 October 2009 - 06:58 AM

The biggest problem with Slide Checks is people for get to maintain them. They have o-rings just like your marker, and you lube/clean your marker after every day, your slide check needs the same attention. Some slide checks even use standard ASA/tank o-rings. This is extremely nice because replacements are easy to find.

I have a PMI remote with slide check. I don't use it often, but I've had it for 4-5 years and I'm still on the original o-rings. It works.

I suggest you go for a coiled remote over a braided stainless remote. The coiled remote is less likely to snag on stuff as it sticks tighter to your body.

This post has been edited by Jackson: 30 October 2009 - 06:58 AM

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#6 User is offline   ger 

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Posted 30 October 2009 - 07:13 AM

Piller nailed it... get the ball valve from Palmer's & you'll never have to worry about maintaining your remote, it'll just work. That ball valve is a bit expensive but will probably outlast the remote line itself. As for the remote line, they are all basically the same. Just get a basic coiled remote line w/ on/off & quick disconnect (without slide check to save a few bucks), then buy the ball valve.

If you do end up w/ a standard slide check, there is a pinned topic in this sub-forum about a leaking slide check. Good info in there on how to replace, repair & maintain the slide check.
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#7 User is offline   Scath an Bhais 

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Posted 30 October 2009 - 09:07 AM

View Postger, on Oct 30 2009, 07:13 AM, said:

Piller nailed it... get the ball valve from Palmer's & you'll never have to worry about maintaining your remote, it'll just work. That ball valve is a bit expensive but will probably outlast the remote line itself. As for the remote line, they are all basically the same. Just get a basic coiled remote line w/ on/off & quick disconnect (without slide check to save a few bucks), then buy the ball valve.

If you do end up w/ a standard slide check, there is a pinned topic in this sub-forum about a leaking slide check. Good info in there on how to replace, repair & maintain the slide check.

OK
Sorry, im a little confused. Pillar said to grab a braided hose from Palmer, and you agree with him, but say to get a coiled remote.

I do like the idea of a coiled remote with a ball valve and a on off. But it sounds like Palmer makes amazing products.

I guess i should ask this before i get too much further. If i play without a remote, and my tank is attached to my gun, i usually just unscrew my tank from the gun without doing anything else first. Is this wrong?

I only ask, because it sorta seem like thats what you would be doing if you didnt shoot all of the air out of your line before disconnecting it.
Thanks again
O'Tuathaigh
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#8 User is offline   Scath an Bhais 

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Posted 30 October 2009 - 09:12 AM

Oh yeah, if i want to use a stabilizer, does this change, or help anything?
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#9 User is offline   ger 

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Posted 30 October 2009 - 10:33 AM

I was referring to the ball valve suggestion. The braided vs. coiled is personal preference. I chose a coiled for the reasons Jackson mentioned - it doesn't get caught up on anything because it stays tight to my body when moving around & switching hands w/ my marker.

Adding a stabilizer doesn't really change much. It depends on your stabilizer & the rest of your setup. Let us know what you have & what stab you are adding.

You don't technically need QD fittings, but they are very helpful. Besides, many remotes are going to come w/ them already.

Just for clarifications sake:
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#10 User is offline   Xakk 

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Posted 30 October 2009 - 10:39 AM

Ive got one of those sitting in my closet that I never used lol.
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#11 User is offline   Scath an Bhais 

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Posted 30 October 2009 - 10:54 AM

Thanks for clarifying, i need it every now and then since im sill kinda new to paintball.

Im currently running a Tippmann US ARMY project Salvo, eventually i wil put a cyclone feed and a response trigger on it.
I should be running a palmer stab that connects to the tank, no the gun.


Some day i will run an x7 phenom

So, just to make sure ive got this, (i do like the pros of a coiled remote), get a coiled remote from palmer, with a on off and ball valve. Im still debating if i want a quick disconnect......10-20 shots in the line is just a few....but.....damnet.
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#12 User is offline   ger 

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Posted 30 October 2009 - 11:02 AM

If you are installing a ball valve at the marker end of the remote, you'll still save the 10-20 shots in the line. The point of the QD is so you won't have to unscrew the asa piece every time you want to remove the remote from the marker.

And thanks for that incredibly informative bit of info Xakk - upping the post count much :P

EDIT: that SO labeled remote int he store looks pretty nice & it's a good price. I have one just like it as a backup, I think its a New Designz Rampage remote as the slide check is pretty unique but looks identical to mine. The other one I saw is a PE brand (which I have) but doesn't appear to have the male QD & asa to screw into your bottom line - atleast the pic doesn't show it, maybe MO can confirm it's contents.

This post has been edited by ger: 30 October 2009 - 12:05 PM

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#13 User is offline   BLACK MAMBA 

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Posted 30 October 2009 - 12:33 PM

best remote hands down is the cp remote.
http://www.compulsiv...ct.asp?ic=17620
there isnt a nicer one on the market.
lifetime warranty.

This post has been edited by BLACK MAMBA: 30 October 2009 - 12:33 PM

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#14 User is offline   Scath an Bhais 

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Posted 30 October 2009 - 01:42 PM

View Postger, on Oct 30 2009, 11:02 AM, said:

If you are installing a ball valve at the marker end of the remote, you'll still save the 10-20 shots in the line. The point of the QD is so you won't have to unscrew the asa piece every time you want to remove the remote from the marker.

And thanks for that incredibly informative bit of info Xakk - upping the post count much :rolleyes:

EDIT: that SO labeled remote int he store looks pretty nice & it's a good price. I have one just like it as a backup, I think its a New Designz Rampage remote as the slide check is pretty unique but looks identical to mine. The other one I saw is a PE brand (which I have) but doesn't appear to have the male QD & asa to screw into your bottom line - atleast the pic doesn't show it, maybe MO can confirm it's contents.

Well.....i dont mind putting extra effort in, so ill skip on the QD. Thanks for clearing that up.

So i just tried to navigate Palmer's site.....i felt like...i was really out of place, can someone link me to a palmer coiled remote with ball valve, NO QD?
If i need something different to make it work with a stab, then.....crap.

You guys are a huge help.
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#15 User is offline   Piller 

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Posted 30 October 2009 - 06:30 PM

Coiled remotes are usually sold in a package. Pretty much every one comes with a quick disconnect at the end whether you want it or not. If you don't want it, you can just take it off with no problems: http://www.palmer-pursuit.com/cart/index.p...;products_id=84

For some reason ball valves are not sold standard issue on remote setups, but it is very easy to buy one and just screw it on the end of your remote line: http://www.palmer-pursuit.com/cart/index.p...products_id=116

Those would be the only two products you need. All finished it should be setup as follows:

[Air Tank]=>[On/Off Valve]=>(Optional Stabilizer)==========air line=======[ball vavle]=>(Optional quick disconnect)=>[ASA]=>Marker

If you do end up using a stabilizer, it can be placed like diagrammed above. They actually sell a remote pre-configured for that setup here. It can always be added on later. They also make a female stabilizer that can take the place of your ASA. It looks like this. It's all personal preference really. The regulator will tend to produce better consistency the closer to the marker it is, but overall there isn't a huge difference - comfort is more important.

This post has been edited by Piller: 30 October 2009 - 06:32 PM

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