New at painting got some ?'s before I start
Posted 11 March 2011 - 09:29 AM
How do I keep the paint on there with out it flaking off? Had this problem before.
do I need to strip the original coat of paint off the marker (a-5) before I start?
I'm on it like white on rice, with a glass of milk in a snow storm.
Doesn't matter what gun you have, as long as you can hit what you're looking at.
Procrastinators of the world unite...TOMORROW
Posted 11 March 2011 - 10:26 AM
How do I keep the paint on there with out it flaking off? Had this problem before. Getting a good, clean, even surface then quality primer, before any final color goes down. It's all about the prep.
do I need to strip the original coat of paint off the marker (a-5) before I start? It's all about the prep. Notice the pattern? See below...
Here's what I mean by prep: Break the marker completely down, internals out & pieces separated. Sand everything you intend to paint - metal & plastic alike. All the paint doesn't have to come off the metal, but the more the merrier. I think I started w/ a wire brush (went thru a few) on my dremel to get the bulk of the metal parts clean, then started w/ 120 grit sandpaper, then 220 to finish the removal. I started w/ 120 then finished w/ 220 on the plastic. Washed everything off w/ a soft scrub brush & soap in a bucket/tub & let dry completely. I then masked off what was necessary & laid down the first few (thin) coats of primer & followed when dry w/ 600 grit sand paper to smooth & wiped clean. I repeated the prime-sand step one more time.
After all that prep, you can finally start laying down thin coats of color. I do mean thin, don't try to cover the whole thing in one shot. You'll end up w/ a horrible finish. Take your time, don't plan on painting the night before you intend to play, give yourself at least a few days to do the work. I waited a full day between priming & painting, then an additional day for each color change (I did a camo pattern) to allow each to set up properly. After painting is complete, allow the paint to harden per the cans instructions prior to using/abusing it, I think it's a week maybe two for Krylon. If you have the ability, you may want to bake the final product at low temps (200ish) for about an hour. If you only painted metal then you can go higher temp for a shorter time.
I know, that's a lot of steps. But honestly, the more time you take the better the job will turn out. If you want it done in an hour then it'll look (and last) like it was done in an hour.
Good luck & follow up w/ pics to let us know how it turns out.
You bought the brand, not my allegiance.
Posted 12 March 2011 - 11:02 AM
I personally like Rustoleum paint, its thicker than most, and it goes on more evenly. Its a bit more $$, but well worth the cost.
You should strip the old paint off though. Its a pian , but has to be done for a good paint. I use paint stripper, and apply liberally, it usually dose the trick. After that, roughing up the surface with 120-200 grit makes fora good base for the paint to stick too.
After that, apply a coat of paint, wait till dry, then snad again with 200 grit. Paint again, wait till dry, then snad with 400-600 grit. ( remember to clean before each paintbing with damp cloth) Paint again and if you wish, sand with 800 after it dries.
Put at least 2 finish coats, and NO runn off or drips. Then if you want a more gloss look, apply a clear coat over it as a finisher.
Posted 14 March 2011 - 09:22 AM
I've never understood why everyone who decides to paint their gun wants it to last forever and are disappointed when it starts to wear and scratch, but they had so much fun just painting it in the first place! Personally, the more one of my paintjobs start to show wear, the bigger my smile grows because I know its nearly time for another sweet paintjob!
This post has been edited by Supergyro: 14 March 2011 - 09:23 AM
"Of course you know, this means war."-Bugs Bunny
"My friend got killed by a throwing star but I live because of DEagle."-Thalion
"The visible spectrum is...RAINBOWS"-Pirate