It helps to have a clear area to work. I've got some old white t-shirts I lay down. First they protect whatever surface I work on ( do you really want oil, gunk, and paint shell fragments over the dining table? ) and the white color gives nice contrast to clearly see parts when you lay them aside. You only need two allen wrenches to take a T-8 apart, 7/62" and 3/32". However, I find a very small wrench useful for dabbing oil on hard to reach parts, tough a toothpick is good to. A handful of Q-Tips will help to swab and dry small crevices while a soft rag will be needed to wipe and clean the rest. Some dental picks can be used to pull out hard to reach O-rings for inspection. And of course you'll need some proper oil for pneumatic devices ( no WD-40! ) Some of the parts can use a thicker lubricant, like lithium grease, as well. I will regularly refer to parts by the name as well as part number and page reference of the owner's manual like this ( #xx, xx ) just to be clear.
To start, make sure the marker is empty of both paint and air. Now, pistols don't usually get terribly dirty unless you use them as a primary marker. Riding in a holster protects them from most paint and mud spatter. So to start, take off any mods and other extras ( like an under-barrel rail and accessory. ) As you can see, mine is all stock so I can't give you specific instructions here. I figure if you bough some extra rails and stuff, you should be able to take them off if you put them on. You can give most pieces and basic wipe down, but don't worry about any deep cleaning yet. It's much easier to wash parts when they're all apart and you won't have to worry about getting water in bad places.
Apply pressure to the barrel ( #6, 11 ) muzzle and give a slight counter-clockwise twist to release the barrel. Pull it and the firing bolt spring ( #13, 11 ) out, you'll have to finagle the spring a bit over the barrel lock studs. Use the 3/32" wrench remove the front and back handle screws and the safety screw ( #8, #9, #10 respectively, pg 11 ). The first is up front at the accessory rail attachment area, the second is under the regulator in the back on the grip side, and the last is recessed under the barrel inside the main gun body just above the safety . Remove the safety bushing ( #4, 11 ) from inside the trigger guard.
Take note of the difference in screws. From left to right this is screw #9, #10, and #8 as noted above. The large bolt up top is the safety bushing.
Remove the trigger pivot pin ( #12, 11 ) by pushing it out with the smaller wrench. Pull the gun body assembly ( #5, 11 )out of the handle assembly ( #1, 11 ) by slightly rotating it toward the left side to clear the trigger push rod ( a slight port side list for you nautical people. ) Remove the safety spring ( #15, 11 ) and safety switch ( #3 & #11, 11 ) by pressing in on the two sides, it should collapse inward rotating on the safety pin on the front of it. The handle assembly doesn't split into halves, it's been cemented together.
Remove the regulator body screw ( #10, 12 ) from beneath the trigger / regulator assembly ( #3, 12 ) with the 3/32" wrench. I find that keeping the washer ( #13, 12 ) on it helps distinguish it from the exterior screws ( they all have the same threading but are different lengths. ) Use the 7/64" wrench to remove the two end cap screws ( #8, 12 ) at the back of the firing bolt assembly ( #1, 12 ) to separate it from the gun body ( #2, 13. ) Now everything that needs to come apart is separate so now it's time to clean the pieces.
Clean / Lube the Parts
Pull the bolt ( #12, 19 ) and plastic washer ( #3, 19 ) off the air chamber shaft ( #2, 19. ) Wipe down everything with a soft cloth. Use a Q-Tip to clean out the inside of the air chamber, relief valve hole on the back, and the bolt. Be careful not to snag anything and leave large clumps of cotton fibers inside.
Inside the air chamber shaft just behind the conical section at the front is a small O-ring (#7, 19, ) slightly highlighted in the above photo, that also can use some oil. If you have the aforementioned toothpick or tiny allen wrench, you can get a drop of oil on that and the rub it around inside. This O-ring is a big pain to pull out so don't try too hard or you may damage it. Apply some oil to the O-ring on the bottom of the bolt assembly ( #12, 12 ) and to the outer surface of the air chamber shaft. You can also put a more robust lubricant on the outside of the shaft, like lithium grease, if you want. While this is in the main airflow, this is a large opening so you needn't worry about clogging anything at this point. When you're done, put the bolt back onto the shaft and shift it around to spread the lube inside.
I usually don't bother stripping it past this since only a little dust can get in over a long time. However, every now and then it's not a bad idea to take it apart and wipe it down and change the lube since dust and what not can work up in here from firing ( for detailed instructions see below. ) Do not disassemble the bolt ( #12, pg 19 ) from the firing pin inside ( #13, pg 19 ) under any circumstances. It has a very precise alignment. If you take it apart you basically have to send it in to Tiberius to be repaired.
A common "problem" when tearing down a T-8 is that the trigger assembly ends up like this. It's actually a simple matter of getting the sear back under the release catch.
First, place the sear spring ( #12, 15 ) end back under the tab on the sear ( #3, 15. ) Then pull back on the release ( #5, 15. ) This will force the rotator ( #4, 15 ) to move toward the push rod ( #6, 15. ) While holding the release, pull the sear down into place and let go. The parts will snap back into place.
This is how it should look afterward. Generally nothing here should really be dirty. The back side of the regulator is the only part that's exposed when the pistol is fully assembled. Take a Q-Tip and clean out the velocity adjuster hole. If the internal parts look a little gunky, it's just the oil collecting some dust and doing it's job. Give the parts a good wipe down and reapply oil between any moving parts, particularly the three parts of the sear release. You can use thicker lubricant here, like lithium grease, if you want. Put a small drop of oil down the CO2 stem ( #5, 16 & 17 ) on the bottom of the regulator as well.
Like the bolt assembly, you shouldn't need to disassemble the regulator or trigger assembly any further than this very often. However, you can do so if you feel you must without screwing things up beyond your repair. Keep in mind that this is probably the most complicated part of the pistol and it has lots of little pins and springs in it. Below is a detailed section on this process.
It's almost time to put it all back together. Clean the main gun body by running it under hot water and wiping it dry. The barrel too loves hot water and a squeegee. Make sure everything's fully dry before proceeding ( particularly the ball detents in the barrel, ) you don't want to trap any water inside. You'll notice a little rust on the ammo release fork below ( #6, 13 ) because I was too hasty when I first got this thing. If you really like, you can wipe a very thin coating of oil on the exterior surfaces to give them extra protection from the elements as well as some extra sheen ( come on, who doesn't like having extra shine? )
Now it's time to start putting it all back together. Slide the firing bolt assembly into the gun body and put the two end cap screws back in ( as always, don't over tighten. ) Slide the bolt forward on the shaft, it will get caught behind the sear otherwise. Next align the trigger / regulator assembly with the bolt / housing ( the picture above shows them as if opened like a clam shell. ) Attach the two parts using the same screw as before ( the one with the washer on it, ) and make sure the outer left edges are inline with each other.
Like the gun body, give the handle assembly a good cleaning and thoroughly dry it. Reinsert the safety switch and expand it into its slot. Insert the retaining bushing up through the bottom ( you may need to hold it with your finger like I'm doing in the picture, ) and slip the safety spring over the top.
Take the handle assembly in one hand and the top assembly in the other. place the trigger in its slot in the handle assembly and rotate the top assembly into the grip frame. I find it helpful to rotate the top assembly into grip so the trigger push rod slides into its slot on the left of the handle assembly. Insert the trigger pivot pin back through the frame. Replace the screws into their proper places as outlined in step one. The shorter screw goes up front, otherwise it will stick up too far keep the barrel from going back into the housing. Slide the firing bolt spring back into the gun body, lifting it over the lock studs, and replace the barrel. You should hear the bolt slide back and lock into place as you press the barrel back.
Finish up by attaching any mods and extras you took off at the beginning. Once a month put a drop or two of oil down the regulator adjuster. You can also slide in a fresh magazine and pop off a few blank shots to circulate the oil you put inside the CO2 stem. Feel free to enjoy the benefits of a clean and properly functioning Tiberius 8!
This post has been edited by Jaron: 29 November 2007 - 02:54 AM