Special Ops Paintball: Sheridan P-Series - Special Ops Paintball

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Sheridan P-Series resurection from the rust and decay Rate Topic: -----

#1 User is offline   1-I 

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Posted 05 May 2011 - 08:00 PM

Howdy all

Not so long ago I picked up a sheridan pump that was sold with the description of "Rusted and jamed shut"
That statement had never been truer than in this case, and Im the king of fixin rusted junk.

Now I own a pgp and have disected that thing but of course this behemoth (by comparison) is an older model so the parts that I think should move might not or might just be that rused in place and the (recently discoved) spring release for the pump arm slowed me down. Not to mention the fack that I had to use a wooden dowel and hammer to get the bolt to 'slide' out.

Attached File  100_3907.jpg (1.1MB)
Number of downloads: 21

-The valve is still in place and I think I have the valve tool somewhere but of course it remains elusive, maybe its my organisation system. Problem is I cant find that organised box.
-Seals Im sure are comepletly shot since the amount of "Liquid Wrench" borderlined waterboarding and the internal buildup just makes all parts suspect.
-The bolt needs some fine paper sanding to get smooth and the hammer might be ok with steel wool.
-The trigger system is gunky but looks ok and externally no noticible damage can be seen on the body but some spit shine will make it prom queen beutiful.
-Pump arm needs some internal cleaning but that looks minor

So now my fun begins, no rush is on the project but since I need a deadline to get anything done Im going for the end of June. Now Im all sorts of open for anyones input/advice and whatever else, In fact if someone can help me find some better illustrations of this other than VintageRex than that would be cool.

On another fun note, isnt sheridan now located (or last located) in NY? This guy has Racin Wi as its birthplace stamped on it.
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#2 User is offline   I.K.E. 

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Posted 05 May 2011 - 08:37 PM

Since I know so little.....my best input....THat looks like a dirty, mucky, AWESOME project! :D Good luck.
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#3 User is offline   Legato 

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Posted 06 May 2011 - 12:42 AM

by god she looks like she has been thru hell and back. WOW. Yeah you can restore her. Just will take work. Any parts you need you can find used on MCB or brand new from PPS. Like you could just buy a whole new trigger frame and not need to sand or repaint or rework the trigger. Defniitely get a trigger shoe. Those triggers suck after a long day of play as is, too thin. Trigger shoe will beef it up so it is less stress on that one spot on your finger.

The ASA looks like .... just...wow. YEah. PPS for parts. If they can still hold air and you don't mind using elbow grease you can probably restore most of it. If you need a valve tool let me know. Remember they are two sided, first use the unthreaded side to unscrew the valve jam nut, then flip the tool over and screw it into the valve so you and just pull the valve out.

Vintagerex will have the most info on this sort of thing. Use the Piranha parts diagram, as that is what that is, or a PMI I...same marker essentially.

If you have a cartridge valve instead of a normal one,
use this. More then likely it is a normal valve, but still.

parts should fit in so it looks like this when done

Posted Image

There are guys in the dealers area on MCB who stock the tiny screws used on the sideline air fittings if PPS is out, just make a WTB thread over there and someone can point you to who has them, i think Infamoussmiley might, i forget. They are a PITA to lose though.
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#4 User is offline   Pyrate Jim 

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Posted 17 May 2011 - 02:58 PM

I went through a similar project last year.
It started as part of a lot and leaked out the back, but I decided to restore it & took pics during the rebuild.
(links instead of pics)

As I got it:
http://i62.photobuck...eSIPMIdf001.jpg
http://i62.photobuck...eSIPMIdf002.jpg

The strip and all parts lined up (missing the lead seal gasket behind the valve which was causing the leak)
http://i62.photobuck...eSIPMIdf003.jpg

Old paint removal and polishing & closer view of internals:
http://i62.photobuck...eSIPMIdf005.jpg

Cutting a set of grips:
http://i62.photobuck...eSIPMIdf006.jpg

Back together and swapped out bolt for speed demon:
http://i62.photobuck...eSIPMIdf024.jpg

Didn't like the color scheme of the grips, went and cut a different set:
http://i62.photobuck...im/grips003.jpg
http://i62.photobuck...im/grips005.jpg

Added point sight, final version picture:
Posted Image

I don't know it that helps with what you have going, but shows how pretty those old Sheridans can be.
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#5 User is offline   Legato 

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Posted 18 May 2011 - 02:36 AM

Jim you always have the cholesterol markers. I am so envious of your collection. Cause I know with all the beauties you do show, there must be some gems you have yet to reveal to the world. XD

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#6 User is offline   1-I 

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Posted 18 May 2011 - 09:45 AM

Thanks for sharing Pyrate, that is usefull. And those grips, what are they made of?
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#7 User is offline   Pyrate Jim 

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Posted 18 May 2011 - 05:33 PM

View Post1-I, on 18 May 2011 - 12:45 PM, said:

And those grips, what are they made of?

Solid Surface countertop material. It's basically synthetic stone.
Corian by DuPont would be the biggest brand name, what I went with was an Avonite brand, a style called "Elephant" which is metal shavings in a translucent polymer.

The stuff has it's drawbacks, certain brands tend to be very brittle when milled too thin and the grips can crack in half from stress. Too thick and it's heavy as a rock.
But it's great stuff to work with, I even tried to scrimshaw a pair on a Sydarm:
http://i62.photobuck...P4-10-11061.jpg
http://i62.photobuck...P4-10-11065.jpg
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#8 User is offline   1-I 

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Posted 28 May 2011 - 11:23 PM

Tonight has been the first real night Ive been able to work on parts of the sheri
Between steelwool, sandpaper and oil the ASA all bolts, air chamber guide(?) have all come clean. Ok some pitting has occured but its only surface wear.

The bolt is dead, cracked rusted and bent, dead appears to be the corect word.
Guess thats the first part that needs to be reordered.
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#9 User is offline   1-I 

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Posted 31 May 2011 - 10:15 PM

Well its about time to open the check book and get some stuff. Bolt, tool, seals, and probally some goodies for the PGP.

So for the pgp any good responses for the quick change systems or the easy reload attachment?
And since Im asking, with keeping the old one a pump does it really matter what replacement bolt I go with, best I can tell it doesnt but my interweb research often gets distracted with Newsground comics about singing horses so I could easily have overlooked something.
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#10 User is offline   Legato 

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Posted 01 June 2011 - 06:26 AM

View Post1-I, on 01 June 2011 - 01:15 AM, said:

Well its about time to open the check book and get some stuff. Bolt, tool, seals, and probally some goodies for the PGP.



So for the pgp any good responses for the quick change systems or the easy reload attachment?

And since Im asking, with keeping the old one a pump does it really matter what replacement bolt I go with, best I can tell it doesnt but my interweb research often gets distracted with Newsground comics about singing horses so I could easily have overlooked something.




You can get parts from PPS or even Titus on MCB in the dealer area sells that stuff. I think he goes by the name Sam Adams here though I could be wrong.

quick change co2 on a backbottle? You can add a CCI quick changer to it for around $20, cheaper if used. Outside of that you could look into a lever changer stock like a Micro CA, turret stock, 6 pack. If you just wanted a wgp slam changer those are nice too. Drop the 12ie in and slam the changer with your palm to pierce it. Doesn't need to be slammed wicked hard either. Or you can buy a UMB from Ops...universal mounting bracket, will go on under your grips and let you mount a normal ASA to the bottomline and then just run a hose from your back bottle to the asa.

Easy reload for what you have a direct feed don't you? Wait..I thought you were talking about the marker in post 1...which isn't a pgp. Lol. I'm slow...

PPS makes a quick changer for 12ies. Takes it from the stock Sheridan 12 turns and makes it the SC legal 2.5 turns. So you have a pgp or pgp2? twos already have quick changers and RVAs. The originals I HIGHLY recommend using the pps one. Will save your butt greatly.

The feed gates is a hit or miss for people. Many love it cause you just shove the tube in load and pull out and lose nothing. Many hate it cause of how large and bulky it is. And also cause over time the feedgate spring weakens and stops working. The new PPS quick reload is great, however it would cost serious money to put on a pgp. Try to just find an extended feed plug so you have more space to grab and get a leash kit for the knob so if you let go while reloading it goes nowhere and doesn't fall to the ground.

I'd invest in an rva foe a pgp just so you can be field legal. Bolts are bolts. Speed demon bolts let you get the bolt out easier. And I think the red bolts do the same..crap why can't I remember that amazing air Smith's Name? He was a legend...damn being tired. But yeah outside of that a bolt is a bolt. Ah yes....cooper t was the smith. When you see red parts on a Sheridan...it is usually a piece from him. Great stuff. I think Titus sells the bolts too for a pgp

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This post has been edited by Legato: 01 June 2011 - 06:29 AM

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#11 User is offline   1-I 

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Posted 01 June 2011 - 06:43 AM

ha I confused Leggie, might also have something to do with it being late or him just being slow.

Its a pgp 1 and yeah this plan came from looking at PPS.

Thanks for the info.
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#12 User is offline   1-I 

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Posted 02 June 2011 - 01:22 PM

I like dealing with PPS, they didnt have any safty springs on the site so I gave them a call and they added them to the site. Probally should get over there and order them soon.


The trigger system, shy of a safty spring, is cleaned and fully functional again. Mostly build up paint residue, easily delt with with some SimpleGreen and 0000 steel whool.
So until I order stuff there isnt much more I can do, time to breadk out the plastic card.
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#13 User is offline   1-I 

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Posted 13 June 2011 - 01:25 PM

Well got my stuff from Plamers and the valves was cleaner than I expected. But considering all the "Liquid Wrench" that I used early Im sure the that liquid did plenty of the cleanup for me. So now I have my new bolt and cleaned parts Im set to rebuild, expect for the part where some time in the last week I must have dropped the main frame and bent up the rear lower tube a minor bit. Ok it was sorta crushed in on itself, but thanks to a hammer, anvil, and pliers its mostly back to shape and once I grab a suitable diameter rod then it will be A-OK and life will be good.

Now the main body is not shiney brass look like Pyrats but a nice old blacken brass look like I like, really its just cleaner than before and once I get my camera found Ill have updated pics on how clean and non rusted everything is.
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#14 User is offline   1-I 

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Posted 20 June 2011 - 09:58 PM

Uhggg, and in the bad way.

The rear tube is far worse than I expected or can possibly fix.

The damage to the lower tube, pinched as it were, was simple to re-align but it seems that both tubes are compressed. Not sure if compressed is the correct word but the hammer and bolt are basicly stuck at a certain point and no matter how much lube it just feels stuck.

Now Im not sure on this and once I talk to a buddy I may have a better idea but right now uhg seems to be the correct feeling.
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#15 User is offline   shadow_772 

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Posted 22 July 2011 - 02:27 PM

View Post1-I, on 20 June 2011 - 10:58 PM, said:

Uhggg, and in the bad way.

The rear tube is far worse than I expected or can possibly fix.

The damage to the lower tube, pinched as it were, was simple to re-align but it seems that both tubes are compressed. Not sure if compressed is the correct word but the hammer and bolt are basicly stuck at a certain point and no matter how much lube it just feels stuck.

Now Im not sure on this and once I talk to a buddy I may have a better idea but right now uhg seems to be the correct feeling.

I don't have much experience, but there are a few in the custom guns section on MCB who do wonders with projects like these. I am sure they would offer some good advice if you wanted to check it out.
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