Special Ops Paintball: Tac One Fire Rate... - Special Ops Paintball

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Tac One Fire Rate... Doesn't always shoot for each trigger pull. Rate Topic: -----

#16 User is offline   ger 

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Posted 26 October 2010 - 11:03 AM

Tear down of a mag is incredibly easy... just remove the two screws and the major components are completely disassembled... very simple procedure. I've had both my mags apart dozens of times. If you really want to make sure you get the trigger rod right without disassembling & reassembling a few times, leave it all assembled & air up the valve which pressurizes the trigger rod. Then take a pair of needle nose pliers in between the trigger back & frame then adjust the rod out to the credit card/driver's license distance already noted.

I never put oil in the on/off asa of the remote, just in the male end of the disconnect. I use a remote most of the time, rarely run air-on-gun.

EDIT: One thing I've done since setting the trigger rod distance is I put a dab of glue where the threads meet to keep it from moving as it seemed to like doing a lot. That way I can "set it & forget it!" just like Ron Popiel.

This post has been edited by ger: 26 October 2010 - 11:07 AM

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#17 User is offline   Slivers 

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Posted 26 October 2010 - 11:19 AM

Blue Loctite is the best thread sealant for that, though it should be tight enough not to need anything. Get the trigger rod correct before messing with the ULT.

I lean toward putting the oil in as close as possible to the valve. I'm sure it will get blown through eventually, but you'll be wasting a lot on oiling the inside of the remote.
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#18 User is offline   cdrinkh20 

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Posted 26 October 2010 - 11:57 AM

View PostSlivers, on 26 October 2010 - 12:19 PM, said:

Blue Loctite is the best thread sealant for that, though it should be tight enough not to need anything. Get the trigger rod correct before messing with the ULT.

I lean toward putting the oil in as close as possible to the valve. I'm sure it will get blown through eventually, but you'll be wasting a lot on oiling the inside of the remote.


Haha well yes, I know not to put it in a remote's ASA, I just used to with my 98c's ASA (have a ASA threaded piece that gives it a male end for remote).

How would I tweak with pliers? Turn it (threaded?) or pull? Pull sounds like a bad idea.
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#19 User is offline   Slivers 

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Posted 26 October 2010 - 12:04 PM

It's threaded. A good pair of pliers should work fine. I actually use a drill chuck (just turn it by hand) because it grabs evenly and won't leave marks.
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#20 User is offline   ger 

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Posted 26 October 2010 - 12:06 PM

Good luck just pulling. Turn - it's threaded. Remember... righty-tighty, lefty-loosey. ;)

As Slivers wrote, oiling as close to the valve input is best. I have a qd on the valve itself & that's where I add my oil.

EDIT: Slivers was faster. The issue w/ a chuck is if he leaves it assembled, small needle nose pliers should do the trick. If he disassembles then he can use whatever method works, even fingers.

This post has been edited by ger: 26 October 2010 - 12:09 PM

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#21 User is offline   Eskimo 

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Posted 26 October 2010 - 07:03 PM

for you sir:

tune in order
1) oil
2) Sear a Cards length away
3) ULT
4) X-valve
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#22 User is offline   HOUND1 

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Posted 28 October 2010 - 12:57 PM

This may sound stupid, but make sure the two lines on the bottom on the X-valve are lined up. Mine were off by about a millimeter last weekend and it really threw me off (i had the same firing issues as you) until i noticed it and tightened up the two halves of the valve.
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#23 User is offline   cdrinkh20 

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Posted 29 October 2010 - 01:09 PM

View PostHOUND1, on 28 October 2010 - 01:57 PM, said:

This may sound stupid, but make sure the two lines on the bottom on the X-valve are lined up. Mine were off by about a millimeter last weekend and it really threw me off (i had the same firing issues as you) until i noticed it and tightened up the two halves of the valve.


Good to know - I may get a chance to check that sear tonight but I just want to know if I can adjust the sear while the safety is on or if that will stress something in the marker - I don't want to snap it trying to force it! I also don't want it going off while I adjust it with pressure in the marker :P
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#24 User is offline   ger 

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Posted 29 October 2010 - 02:18 PM

Having the safety on is fine... if anything I'd suggest it. Make sure the trigger is pulled tight against the safety when you adjust the trigger rod as there is some very minor front-to-back play in the Intelliframe's trigger beyond the safety stop position - at least on mine there is.
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#25 User is offline   cdrinkh20 

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Posted 29 October 2010 - 04:38 PM

View Postger, on 29 October 2010 - 03:18 PM, said:

Having the safety on is fine... if anything I'd suggest it. Make sure the trigger is pulled tight against the safety when you adjust the trigger rod as there is some very minor front-to-back play in the Intelliframe's trigger beyond the safety stop position - at least on mine there is.


Mine too - however, one issue... it appears that the sear itself can move up and down/side-to-side a bit...is this normal or should it be "tighter"?

EDIT: Apparently, when it was sideways on my work table the sear was not extending fully - it is actually basically resting directly ON my trigger -_- Also, I found out that my tank did at some point start leaking and now I have only 200 psi left....

Sigh. Nearest fill is 30-45 min...and I don't even know if the fill nipple was the only leak.

This post has been edited by cdrinkh20: 29 October 2010 - 04:46 PM

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#26 User is offline   Legato 

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Posted 29 October 2010 - 11:32 PM

Fill a spray bottle with water with a dash of soap. Spray this on the valve, watch for bubbles. Or, if you can get a big enough glass or bowl, fill that with just water and dunk the regulator part of the tank underwater (don't worry nothing bad can happen). Watch for bubbles. That is where your leak is
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#27 User is offline   cdrinkh20 

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Posted 31 October 2010 - 12:47 PM

View PostLegato, on 30 October 2010 - 12:32 AM, said:

Fill a spray bottle with water with a dash of soap. Spray this on the valve, watch for bubbles. Or, if you can get a big enough glass or bowl, fill that with just water and dunk the regulator part of the tank underwater (don't worry nothing bad can happen). Watch for bubbles. That is where your leak is


Good idea :) I'll have to see when I can fill it a little more!

I had another thought guys - it may not be how the marker is set that's causing this inconsistent firing...
The adjustable tank I'm using is an adjustable Worr Gas 70/4500 and it has what I thought was merely an on/off (like turning the round bit on the end of a remote that pushes down the pin on a tank)...so when I opened it, I turned it back off the max open a bit, so that I didn't reduce flow.

I'm wondering now if this tank doesn't work like that (as it doesn't have a visible pin; it doesn't come ready to fit an ASA, I believe it normally has a Macroline fitting or something that has to be direct connected to the marker)... I'm wondering that by turning this "on-off" I'm actually adjusting the output pressure of the tank, and by turning it back a bit I'm reducing output pressure to lower than I want.

Should I test this before I make further adjustment to sear/ULT/Level 10?

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#28 User is offline   Slivers 

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Posted 31 October 2010 - 03:22 PM

Yeah, it could well be an adjustable tank issue. I had a whole string of trouble from my Flatline regulator before I switched over to the Ninja. Definitely open it fully. It was designed to work that way. Also break the system down as far as possible and check whatever regulator seat it uses for proper whateverness.

A well designed ASA system will not have an oversized pin and demonstrate the "choking" issue you're worried about. Remote line ASAs are usually cheap and some have that issue. Measure your pin against the tank reg pin and the hole it's protruding from. Once you confirm it's okay, confidently screw the knob in fully (if there's a problem, take the pin out and file it down on a lathe/drill press until it is). This will allow maximum flow from the tank.
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#29 User is offline   cdrinkh20 

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Posted 31 October 2010 - 03:37 PM

View PostSlivers, on 31 October 2010 - 04:22 PM, said:

Yeah, it could well be an adjustable tank issue. I had a whole string of trouble from my Flatline regulator before I switched over to the Ninja. Definitely open it fully. It was designed to work that way. Also break the system down as far as possible and check whatever regulator seat it uses for proper whateverness.

A well designed ASA system will not have an oversized pin and demonstrate the "choking" issue you're worried about. Remote line ASAs are usually cheap and some have that issue. Measure your pin against the tank reg pin and the hole it's protruding from. Once you confirm it's okay, confidently screw the knob in fully (if there's a problem, take the pin out and file it down on a lathe/drill press until it is). This will allow maximum flow from the tank.



Cool. I just worry about taking it apart myself due to so many warnings about wrecking the threads and other stories :P
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#30 User is offline   cdrinkh20 

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Posted 05 November 2010 - 03:28 PM

So: an unfortunate update...

Yes, the fill nipple was leaking. Unfortunately, a standard fill nipple could NOT fit into the regulator. We also tried using the pin from the new one in the old nipple, to no avail.

So...basically, I figure I'll have to get a new regulator. But then, I thought, what if a new regulator doesn't fit? I was thinking it would be simplest (and more reliable) to just call up Ninja and ask them to preset a 4500psi reg for a higher than normal (800 psi) output.

So,
1) Does anyone know if the Worr Gas tank I have is going to fit other regs? I can't find more detailed information than this: http://www.directpai...tems-P6397.aspx

2) What, in your experience, is a good working output pressure for a Tac One Automag (ie. 1100 psi)?

3) I've read that past a certain output psi (1000?) I should have the 1.5k burst disk replaced with a 3k burst disk. Is that a good idea? And does it hurt the reg to reduce the output to below that level once the burst disk is replaced?

Unfortunately, I do not have money at this time to buy a brand new HPA tank, and my original one is just a 48/3000 PE steely, which is not adjustable to my knowledge (plus it's not much air, particularly for a mag).
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