Special Ops Paintball: Painting vs. Anodizing - Special Ops Paintball

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Painting vs. Anodizing Rate Topic: -----

#1 User is offline   Mori 

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Posted 19 January 2006 - 03:35 PM

Okay, when I'm done getting my body, rail, frame, and everything else for my mag, I'll either be getting it anno'ed or duracoated white.


What are the advantages of painting it, over anno'ing it?
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#2 User is offline   Big Bone 

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Posted 19 January 2006 - 04:12 PM

Great Question! There are pros and cons to both types of finishing, for starters:
Paint is much easier and less expensive to camouflage. I have actually see only one gun digi-anodized and it wasn't very impressive. The colors where almost transparent.
Paint can adhere to metals and plastics, where as ano is only for aluminum.
Anodizing does slightly strengthen raw aluminum especial where there are threads.
Anodize looks terrible when you try to coat cast aluminum. Such as an A5 or 98 body.
The cost of most solid colors Anodizing is relatively inexpensive (though I hear white is the most pricey).
Anodizing has a slight shine to it and to most woodsball players this is very undesirable.

As the painter here at Special Ops my view may be a bit one sided I know. But there are many benefits to both ways of finishing. So the decision is up to you. If any one else would like to add to the pros and cons feel free I would like to hear what you think as well.
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#3 User is offline   Mori 

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Posted 19 January 2006 - 04:19 PM

Which one is the most prone to scratches and marks?
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#4 User is offline   Big Bone 

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Posted 19 January 2006 - 04:44 PM

Depends on the dip time of the Anodizing. The longer they acid etch (dip time), the stronger and thicker the finish will be (I think that is how it works). How they gage paint hardness is by what they call "Pencil Testing". They use different hardnesses of graphite and scratch the finished surface to gage its resistance. DuraCoat is a #2 soon after painting and gages higher and higher the longer it cures. It caps at about 2 weeks. There is one finish I have found that is a #9. Very hard stuff but a pain to work with and I still haven't figured out a way to camouflage with it due to its curing process. So really they are both very scratch resistant but you have to let DuraCoat cure for a bit longer and as for ano, pay a bit extra for a longer dip time. So basically what I am saying is, both finishes are comparable in there scratch resistance.
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#5 User is offline   dipper 

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Posted 29 November 2008 - 07:48 AM

Hi, New to the site, I couldn't help read your replys to Paint Vs Anodize.

Have you seen the digital camo offered by some of the companies like tazer INT? Its called Hydroprinting or water transfer printing?
Or do you own a car/truck with wood grain dash? If you have been in a car with woodgrain dash its the same process that is don on guns. bows, UTV's.
Very durable and you can get it in MANY different colors.

Very inexpensive to do on your guns. around $80 to $100 for a paint ball gun, shotgun Plus you can get the digital or carbon fiber look?
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#6 User is offline   Big Bone 

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Posted 04 December 2008 - 01:03 AM

First off, welcome to the forum and this sure smells like a pitch :P . Thats cool though.

I've looked into it this process myself but for the application of paintball, water transfer (as I've come to call it) has some major downfalls. Though it is a fast and easy way to transfer an image to an object it is not as durable as it needs to be. I've recamo'ed many guns and masks with this process done to it because the image has begun to lift off of the object either due to chipping from the high velocity of a paintball smashing into it or through corrosion of paintball fill over time. Either way I don't look at this as a significant method for of finishing for paintball equipment. Just MHO.


BB
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#7 User is offline   Voodoo Child 

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Posted 13 December 2008 - 10:12 AM

View PostBig Bone, on Dec 4 2008, 03:03 AM, said:

First off, welcome to the forum and this sure smells like a pitch :dodgy: . Thats cool though.

I've looked into it this process myself but for the application of paintball, water transfer (as I've come to call it) has some major downfalls. Though it is a fast and easy way to transfer an image to an object it is not as durable as it needs to be. I've recamo'ed many guns and masks with this process done to it because the image has begun to lift off of the object either due to chipping from the high velocity of a paintball smashing into it or through corrosion of paintball fill over time. Either way I don't look at this as a significant method for of finishing for paintball equipment. Just MHO.


BB


Wow All of this was very educational, I think I will go witht he paint jobs offered by Spec ops. An Airsmith here at home was telling me that he thinks a custom paint job is a waste of money cause it will be damaged by woodsballing. IF the scratch resistances are comparable to anodizing it should survive for quite awhile, correct?

Hooah,
-V-
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