Special Ops Paintball: Tank Build - Special Ops Paintball

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Tank Build

#1 User is offline   Orpackrat 

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Posted 12 August 2010 - 05:02 PM

2 days ago I was given an older electric golf cart that did not work. Since then, there has been a lot of work on it. I'm converting the electric cart to gas powered. The donor motor is from a 1976 artic cat snowmobile but it took a day to un-seize the motor and get it running again.

Here are progression Pictures:

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Going to have to stop work for a week on it till I get back from my trip.

Hopefully I can mod the snowmobile guts to fit on the cart to keep the cost down as the current about of money invested in it is $0 and I hope to keep it as close to that as possible.


Besides just having a cart to have fun in, I plan on bolting on a cage for a driver and gunner for use at games. I want to keep it as small as possible to be a small target for rockets.
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#2 User is offline   Run'n Gun 

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Posted 12 August 2010 - 05:48 PM

Sounds awesome!!! Cant wait to see the finished project!!

God Bless!!!
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#3 User is offline   blackcelldrumr15 

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Posted 12 August 2010 - 06:08 PM

Keep us updated! I'm looking forward to see how this turns out.
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#4 User is offline   Iron__Man 

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Posted 12 August 2010 - 07:04 PM

i'd reccomend keeping it low to the ground (meaning the roof), and give the gunner the ability to use a turret. other than that, have fun.
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#5 User is offline   Orpackrat 

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Posted 13 August 2010 - 04:03 AM

Could not sleep so I worked into today on the drive system. I'm finally about to go to bed so here is an update on what is done.

Cut away on the motor drive shaft even more to get to the bare shaft.

Ground down shaft to fit new bearing assembly from lower final snowmobile drive. Still got to grind down on the shaft another 3/4".



If any of you have seen a snowmobile and how the drive system works, imagine this:

Its essentially identical in function except the back drive pulley floats with the axle and mounts above the electric motor.

From the drive pulley, there is the disk brake and a gear box that drops down to drive the cogs that turns the track.

Where the drive cogs where normally be, instead there is the modified motor drive shaft that connects to the axle.

Animation here

Where that cog is spinning turning the track, the modified motor shaft is which bolts to the drive shaft. The "secondary clutch" (drive pulley), instead of being in a fixed position, will float with the axle.


Edit:

Current Investment, $0. If I salvage a bearing, I hope the total cost of this build will be under $20. If I have to order a new bearing assembly for one of the drive lines, total investment will only be about $30. That's for a running cart if all continues to work out.

This post has been edited by Orpackrat: 13 August 2010 - 04:10 AM

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#6 User is offline   Orpackrat 

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Posted 13 August 2010 - 05:13 AM

Still not able to sleep, trying to do math and I don't think I am doing it right.

Random numbers for the most part but if the snowmobiles drive cog can get the sled to a top speed of 70MPH and is approx 6" in diameter, the tires on the cart are about 18" in diameter which is 3 times the size. That equates to about 210MPH. Of course, while I am thinking about it, the cart has its own gear reduction of about 10 to 1. So, top speed I would say is about 20MPH, in theory of course. I will still have to measure the actual size of the drive cogs. It may not be the fastest but it should have a nice amount of power to the wheels and the slow speed will be easier to use it on the field.
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#7 User is offline   Orpackrat 

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Posted 14 August 2010 - 09:27 AM

Thinking about it, I not going to weld the sprocket on the the electric motor drive shaft anymore. Instead I will use a small grinder to cut 4 slots into the gear and shaft and use key stock. Then drill and tap the shaft so a bolt holds the gear on. That way it will be easier to center and can be disassembled with ease if needed.
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#8 User is offline   Orpackrat 

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Posted 17 August 2010 - 12:10 AM

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Approximately where the engine will go and the drive pulley will be forward about 4 inches more.

Due to frame clearance issues, I had to disassemble the rear suspension and will modify the linkage to allow the frame to sit lower but still have some travel.
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#9 User is offline   Orpackrat 

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Posted 17 August 2010 - 05:53 PM

Modifying the motor shaft. Its taking some time, especially since its all being done with a 6" table grinder (I wish I had a Metal Lathe and Mill).

I'm going on a trip in the morning and hope to be back in a few days to put the 1/4" notches to secure the gear. Once that is done, assembly will start moving quickly.

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#10 User is offline   Orpackrat 

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Posted 27 August 2010 - 12:09 PM

Didn't get to work as much as I wanted to on the tank, got an hour or 2 more work on the lower sprocket assembly before its done and ready to mount. After that, its a matter of re-bolting the rear end, mounting the drive lines, mounting the engine, attaching cables, fuel tank, and hope it works.

Progression pictures, mock up of about how it will all fit together:

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This post has been edited by Orpackrat: 27 August 2010 - 12:15 PM

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#11 User is offline   Dark Shadow Hunter 

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Posted 31 August 2010 - 11:30 AM

Looking good.

I don't mean to be a kill joy, but you might want to make sure you can get it insured when it all said and done. I know many scenario fields and producers require the tank be insured and they are listed on the policy for the event.
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