Special Ops Paintball: Alpha Black upgrades - Special Ops Paintball

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Alpha Black upgrades

#1 User is offline   oldhunter 

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Posted 03 February 2011 - 08:26 PM

Ok I have looked but have not found a topic on this. if there is one please direct me too it.

Ok I want to upgrade my Alpha Black. So I will like to know what has been done. What has worked and what hasnít. Also I donít know much about the different types of companies, so any help there would be helpful.

Thanks for any and all helpful advice.




p.s. I already know that I sound like an idiot.
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#2 User is offline   Benaiah 

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Posted 03 February 2011 - 08:49 PM

no question is a stupid question. With that said, Welcome to the Forums!

Okay, with an Alpha black, which is a blowback style marker, any internal upgrades will have a minimal effect on performance.

First question is are you using HPA (High Pressure Air, or Nitrogen (N2))? If not, that will give you better consistency, and thus accuracy.

The only other things i can think of are an electric trigger, which will in turn require some sort of electronic hopper.

An upgraded barel will do some good, but again the effect will be minimal unless you get a bore sizing kit.
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#3 User is offline   oldhunter 

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Posted 03 February 2011 - 08:58 PM

Thanks Benaiah,
I use HPA.
I have been curious about the cycolne feeder?
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#4 User is offline   cdrinkh20 

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Posted 03 February 2011 - 08:59 PM

Basically, if you are having trouble finding anything... they are equivalent to the Tippmann 98 Custom.

You could try:
  • a Cyclone feed - will help prevent chops, you may want a store to install (some people prefer electronic hoppers for fast shooting - cyclones are "fat").
  • If you want to shoot fast, an E-Grip or an RT kit (will need extra stuff to mount RT with a cyclone at same time) - if you get either, you will need a cyclone or electronic loader to keep up.
  • a new barrel - for a good quality barrel that isn't too expensive, you could try a J&J Ceramic - I'm not sure if the stock barrel's shroud (M16 grip) is attached to the barrel on the Alpha Black, but if it is and you still want MILSIM shroud they exist too (but are expensive).
  • a Rocket Cock II (if you can find, nowadays) - it covers the open bolt on the side of the marker, so it keeps dirt and paint from getting inside. It doesn't look bad either! Pretty cheap --> doesn't increase performance, but anything you tack on is pure preference.
  • Benaiah is right - HPA is one the better things you can invest in (if your field has fill stations).


In the end, you should play with your marker a while to determine what you do and do not like about it - then you can go about upgrading (HPA is a must). If you already have HPA, consider selling it to a new player for approximately half and looking into a used marker - compared the cost of upgrades, a different marker can get you better performance for your dollar.

This post has been edited by cdrinkh20: 03 February 2011 - 09:02 PM

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#5 User is offline   oldhunter 

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Posted 03 February 2011 - 09:03 PM

thanks cdrinkh20,
the barrel is not attached to the shourd/hand guard.
Saw a Rocket Cock on Amazoin some time back dont thank it was a 2.


Too stubern to get a new one.
Had her since summer 2009.

This post has been edited by oldhunter: 03 February 2011 - 09:05 PM

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#6 User is offline   cdrinkh20 

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Posted 03 February 2011 - 09:07 PM

Rocket Cock I will work also... just requires you to open receiver halves to deal with it. The #2 comes with longer screws so you can just attach to outside. Mine was summer 09, also... but I saw a Tac One Longbow/Qbow at such a ridiculously low price that I sold it to a friend who wanted to get into the sport so I could afford it.

Here was my 98c (when I still used a Flatline - I don't recommend them, btw. You get extra distance, but the ball is less likely to break on target the further it goes, and the backspin can make your shots drift sideways - you are better off with a traditional barrel. I have no experience with Apex):

Posted ImagePosted Image

This post has been edited by cdrinkh20: 03 February 2011 - 09:13 PM

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#7 User is offline   oldhunter 

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Posted 03 February 2011 - 09:21 PM

I am curious about the internal upgrades that Benaiah mentiond. I would like to know more.


btw what websight do you recumend on the J&J Ceramic berral. and the size.

This post has been edited by oldhunter: 03 February 2011 - 09:31 PM

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#8 User is offline   cdrinkh20 

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Posted 03 February 2011 - 09:56 PM

Like he said, internal upgrades won't do too much to improve a blow-back design like a Tippmann (non Phenom). I had a TechT Zero-Kick Hammer for a little, but it didn't even fit my receiver halves properly and I couldn't get my velocity to go below 350 fps... and then, when I cut the spring, no higher than 200. TechT responded about the spring, but never sent one - and they made no effort to help me with the fact it did not fit the marker properly. I doubt I'll deal with them again.

Some people like to upgrade the powertube so as to make it less susceptible to CO2, and just overall more durable. Some upgrade the bolt, but from the tests I have seen it does little to nothing to improve anything; some even broke more balls than stock.

I would suggest not worrying until something breaks - mostly, that will take a lot of wear to do so.

As for a J&J ... someone else may be able to assist you better. I don't have a particular favourite website, but I stay away from Zephyr now - tried to charge me $32 shipping for an envelope AFTER I paid for my part. I'm from Canada, so I use Paintballgear.ca if I only need one thing because shipping is cheap. However, stuff in Canada tends to cost more... a JJ is $60 on there, but you can probably find for $45 or cheaper, if on sale (perhaps $30). You might also look used (a local forum).

From what I know about barrel length, you need a minimum length to get the paintball up to speed efficiently, but a longer barrel can help stabilize the ball (to an extent). However, past a certain point, the barrel becomes inefficient as it requires more air to push the ball out of it.

Minimum decent efficiency/accuracy = 8", and I wouldn't go higher than 14" if possible. You may want to measure your Alpha Black Barrel if you want the JJ to come out to the same length, if aesthetics matters to you - it's possible the ball might come out wonky and hit the shroud if the tip doesn't at least come out past the edge. I personally use a 12" barrel - good all around. My Tac One has an 18" barrel to go with the 20 paintball spring feed though, cause I thought it would look weird otherwise. I suspect (but have looked for nothing to prove it) that a longer barrel (more contact with the ball) could cause more ball breaks, particularly at a high ROF. J&J barrels come with porting, which reduce the effective length of the barrel (ball stops accelerating at the end because gas is venting out the side), but help to quiet your shots and to an extent, stabilize them (less air to knock it around outside the barrel).
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#9 User is offline   oldhunter 

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Posted 03 February 2011 - 10:27 PM

Hmm...
Well cdrinkh20 the stock berral is 11in.
Biggest problem is I like sound. Im 5'4 and 245 I am not a waight lifter. I do not move quiltly. :D
Besides I like noise. B)
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#10 User is offline   cdrinkh20 

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Posted 03 February 2011 - 11:05 PM

Haha well think of it this way... if you pick off someone in a group with one, quiet shot... then the others will have a harder time finding you.
You could always pick up a Canoniser tip kind of thing - mmmm barrel loudener :) or just tape up the porting holes with electrical tape. It's black and doesn't leave stupid amounts of residue.

J&J has another nice feature... the inside is Teflon coated. Got a ball break? Shoot once or twice and all of your accuracy is back. Very handy.
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#11 User is offline   Down Range Pain 

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Posted 04 February 2011 - 05:43 AM

if your going for loud and noisy there are some upgrade you can get

Unported Barrel, the shorter the louder, and a Diska or similar barrel loudener (a guy called NOXX makes some good custom loudeners, you can find him over on PbNation.com) There are a few guys who have modified car exhaust loudeners and attached them to their barrels...cant see that being any kind of quiet.
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#12 User is offline   Benaiah 

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Posted 04 February 2011 - 07:45 AM

Cdrink pretty much covered it. However, i would stay away from the cyclone feed. Cold weather can turn it in to a blender, or make it not even work (mine does the latter, the spring gets cold and too stiff. i need to get a winter one). For around the same price you can get a solid, reliable electronic hopper, which if it goes down you can just switch out hoppers, or if you get a different marker you can still use the hopper.
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#13 User is offline   cdrinkh20 

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Posted 04 February 2011 - 08:43 AM

View PostBenaiah, on 04 February 2011 - 07:45 AM, said:

Cdrink pretty much covered it. However, i would stay away from the cyclone feed. Cold weather can turn it in to a blender, or make it not even work (mine does the latter, the spring gets cold and too stiff. i need to get a winter one). For around the same price you can get a solid, reliable electronic hopper, which if it goes down you can just switch out hoppers, or if you get a different marker you can still use the hopper.


There's the personal preference ;) I had "Squishy Paddles" in mine so I never broke balls in it, cold weather or not. I didn't shoot fast enough to really worry about it (no E-trigger or RT). Never had it fail in cold but never ended up using much below 0 Celsius.

Good point about being able to use hopper on another gun.

The way I look at things, however is: the more complex your stuff gets, the more time you are going to spend fixing stuff or sending it off to be fixed.
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#14 User is offline   oldhunter 

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Posted 04 February 2011 - 08:54 AM

I looked in to the RT and E-trigger and I donít really like the idea of them.

On the E-trigger, manly I donít like batters. (long story) which also rules out an electric hopper.

On the RT well it doesnít seem efficient on an already inefficient marker. (I could be understanding it wrong)

Also what other upgrades are available for the cyclone feeder.
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#15 User is offline   cdrinkh20 

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Posted 04 February 2011 - 09:59 AM

Actually, the RT is supposed to use excess gas to work. Some people claim they get less efficiency, but it's probably just because they believe they do - not sure if any tested it. Cyclone works on the same idea, excess gas fires the paddles.

As for cyclone upgrades...

I had the full TechT kit, which I found was largely unnecessary.

1) Vortex Mod - replaces the crappy plastic ratchet in the cyclone with a metal one. The plastic one has been known to snap, especially under high ROF - it will do so eventually over time. This is probably the upgrade I'd recommend most for the cyclone, but again, you might as well let the plastic one go until it breaks. Just don't buy another plastic one.

(There are other brands of this mod available - TechT kind of pissed me off, if you might guess, with the Zero Kick Hammer)

Not sure if there are others brands for the other mods, but I'm sure you could find out:

Quick Exhaust Piston Housing:
The original A5 cyclone had no way to vent the gas efficiently, essentially limiting how fast it can feed paint (stock cyclone maxes at 15 bps, well over what you can do with the stock trigger). If you got an RT (perhaps a super RT) or an E-Grip, you might hit that limit.

"Lightening" Rod:
Same idea - increased speed by introducing a "self-lubricating", lighter piston.

Basically useless unless you want an A5 that rips at 20bps or a little higher.

In any case, one of the other things people complain most about with the cyclone is how big it is - it limits your field of view. It's probably 4-5 inches across beneath the actual hopper.
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