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#1 User is offline   Pyrophoria 

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Posted 09 July 2007 - 10:30 AM

Hey Special Opsers,

Yes, I searched the forums and web, also checked the LPK DIY article? at modle98.org, maybe this will help somebody else too. I'm looking to upgrade a 98c to low pressure, primarily to quiet it, also for compatibility with friends HPA systems on the field. Being able to use the last few ounces of CO2 and winter play options are attractive too. Anyway, on to the questions:


First question: The 98c LPK comes with a low pressure chamber, is this up to running with CO2 or will I need a Palmer regulator/stabilizer? If I do get the Palmer, is the chamber even necessary any longer?

Second question: What about the bolt cover? Does the lighter rear bolt automatically cock when pressured? What's the deal here? :D

Third question: That rear velocity adjuster... I have a stock where the thing's supposed to go. Is this going to be a LPK vs Stock decision, or is there a third alternative (regulator, perhaps)?

Thanks in advance.
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#2 User is offline   slinkyaroo 

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Posted 09 July 2007 - 10:37 AM

View PostPyrophoria, on Jul 9 2007, 01:30 PM, said:

Hey Special Opsers,

Yes, I searched the forums and web, also checked the LPK DIY article? at modle98.org, maybe this will help somebody else too. I'm looking to upgrade a 98c to low pressure, primarily to quiet it, also for compatibility with friends HPA systems on the field. Being able to use the last few ounces of CO2 and winter play options are attractive too. Anyway, on to the questions:


First question: The 98c LPK comes with a low pressure chamber, is this up to running with CO2 or will I need a Palmer regulator/stabilizer? If I do get the Palmer, is the chamber even necessary any longer?

CO2 is ok - You need a secondary reg anyways. - an ERGO reg is what I use.

Second question: What about the bolt cover? Does the lighter rear bolt automatically cock when pressured? What's the deal here? :D

Works the same as a stock bolt. Gotta be cocked manually at first.

Third question: That rear velocity adjuster... I have a stock where the thing's supposed to go. Is this going to be a LPK vs Stock decision, or is there a third alternative (regulator, perhaps)?

It's one or the other as far as I know - unless you can do a ghetto mod and still seal the rear bolt chamber.

Thanks in advance.

This post has been edited by slinkyaroo: 09 July 2007 - 10:48 AM

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#3 User is offline   Maj Tom 

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Posted 09 July 2007 - 10:40 AM

#1 - The chamber is used to store a volume of regulated air/gas to be used to propel the ball. With out it you'll experience shoot down when firing.

#2 - The LPK is Rear cocking

#3 - That's the rear cocking mechanism, unless you devise another way to cock it, it's a stock VS LPK decision.

Posted Image

This post has been edited by Maj Tom: 09 July 2007 - 10:41 AM

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#4 User is offline   slinkyaroo 

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Posted 09 July 2007 - 10:57 AM

View PostMaj Tom, on Jul 9 2007, 01:40 PM, said:

Posted Image



Note where the front grip goes

You'll require to purchase a separate regulator for the lpk.


.
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#5 User is offline   Pyrophoria 

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Posted 09 July 2007 - 11:03 AM

Thanks much, slinkyaroo, Maj Tom.

The rear cocking knob which I took for a RVA really puts me off. I love my stock, so that's pushing me towards a DIY cobblejob. I can cock normally with a Dark Horizons bolt/green spring, and I can fabricate a LP chamber.

Not getting the standard beaten path premade LPK brings up another question though: How is valve system different? Can my stock valve be modified to work, or does it even need to be?
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#6 User is offline   slinkyaroo 

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Posted 09 July 2007 - 11:12 AM

I do not remember the difference - if any between the valve's internals.

The valve casing comes with expansion chamber and reg port attached.


.

This post has been edited by slinkyaroo: 09 July 2007 - 11:37 AM

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#7 User is offline   Pyrophoria 

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Posted 09 July 2007 - 12:21 PM

I hope that's the case. I guess Tippmann must have some real support headaches from people who can't screw that in.

So...the low pressure chamber works as a post-regulator expansion chamber, correct? How about a setup like this:

Titanium hammer, expansion chamber (vertical foregrip), lighter hammer spring, and Palmer inline stabilizer with remote
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#8 User is offline   Factor 

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Posted 09 July 2007 - 12:29 PM

the LPK lowes the operating pressure of the gun ... both CO2 and HPA output from the tank around 850 PSI (obv CO2 is more volatile which hurts consitency)

you can use a friends HPA at any time, just plug it right into the gun, it'll be more consistent than CO2 and winter friendly

the low pressure chamber just stores low pressure air so that you will always have the VOLUME of air you need to propel the paintball

most regulators don't like CO2 so the whole LPK doesn't make your gun any more CO2 friendly ... you can use the palmer stab w. the LPK and it'd be CO2 friendly ... but you can use the Palmer Stab on it's own at the high pressure setting and still save your stock
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#9 User is offline   Pyrophoria 

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Posted 09 July 2007 - 02:51 PM

Gotcha, the pressure chamber explanation makes a lot of sense now. Thanks, Factor. I already knew LP uses higher volume of expanded gas, just didn't put two and two together.

The rest is right on, but compatibility is a mere tertiary goal. I'd definitely get a Palmer regulator, they're head and shoulders above the rest.
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#10 User is offline   Factor 

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Posted 09 July 2007 - 03:10 PM

i use a CP short reg w. gauge port on mine and i love it (i have an A5 w. lpk)
but the CP doesn't like CO2 ... i have 2 HPA tanks ... a steel 68ci 3000psi and a fiber 92ci 4500psi ... so that would get me about 1500 shots at an outlaw game if i show up pre-filled

otherwise if i'm not pre-filled i can't play outlaw (but that doesn't bug me because i much prefer to play at fields w. amenities and refs and other walk-ons)
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#11 User is offline   Dark Shadow Hunter 

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Posted 09 July 2007 - 11:25 PM

I have come up with a way to do a LPK without having to use the T-vertical air adapter and to also use a stock. The hammer needs to be lighter so you will have to either drill holes in your stock hammer or get a titanium hammer. I recommend the titanium hammer approach. Also you will need to get a few fittings. One of them is a male x female x female T fitting. The other is a male-male nipple.

There is a differance in the body of the stock valve and the low pressure valve. If you create your own valve you will need to mill out one or two more grooves on the valve body. I also recommend getting a softer spring. The best route would be to go to Tippmanparts.com and order the individual valve components. That way you do not end up screwing up the original valve and it can be re-used.

You will also have to mill out one of the reciever halves as well. Basically cut out the metal in the empty area where the stock hose sits.

After all the milling is done the rest is easy.

1. assemble the valve

2. install valve into power tube.

3 screw male end of T-fitting into valve.

4 install power tube assembly

5 screw male-male nipple into bottom of t-fitting.

6 screw low pressure chamber/expansion chamber onto male-male nipple.

7 attach hose to side of t-fitting (may need a 90 degree fitting for propper looks/fit)

8 attach hose to asa/air thru stock.


Hope this helps.

Keep in mind I bought my 98C used and it came with a LPK that was included with a random bag o' parts.
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#12 User is offline   Pyrophoria 

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Posted 10 July 2007 - 09:01 AM

It does help, anytime my marker can drop weight makes me happy. I'd love to wave goodbye to that big brass vertical adapter.

I'm having trouble visualizing your description of the valve modification. Which components need to be replaced, and where should the grooves on the body be milled?
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#13 User is offline   Noob_Killer 

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Posted 10 July 2007 - 11:01 AM

I believe he's talking about the "mitered"? grooves on the sides of the valve body.
There are 3 of them on a stock valve and they allow the air to move through the front of the powertube (propelling the ball). This is also where the response trigger gets its portion of air from.
If you add another 2 grooves on your own, you get more volume moving towards the ball and can consequently operate at a lower pressure.
Also, I believe the LP valve comes with a slightly weaker spring (which you can also modify on your own, just compress the spring in a vice or something and leave it for a few hours--that should do it).

Correct me if I'm wrong, but that's what I was always told about the LP valve.
Good luck.
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#14 User is offline   FlamingoChavez 

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Posted 10 July 2007 - 07:23 PM

I've got a Dark Horizon Titanium Hammer for a 98c, if you want to lighten up your internals, but don't want to go to rear cocking. PM me if you are interested.

This post has been edited by FlamingoChavez: 10 July 2007 - 07:23 PM

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#15 User is offline   Dark Shadow Hunter 

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Posted 10 July 2007 - 08:15 PM

Ok here is a rough set up for the LPK. At least for the powertube and low pressue chamber

Attached File  LPK.jpg (47.08K)
Number of downloads: 5

You may want to replace your ASA with a Palmer's Female Stabalizer. Unless you want to use an air thru stock. If you use an air-thru stock you will want to use a Palmer's Direct Stabalizer.
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