Special Ops Paintball: Autococker general discussion thread - Special Ops Paintball

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Autococker general discussion thread From classy to classic. Rate Topic: ***** 1 Votes

#406 User is offline   Side-Swipe 

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Posted 10 February 2009 - 10:12 PM

I wish i had a job to start out with,lol. I am 18 and that makes it no easier to find a job. Nate can you give me a illustration of everything, im a visual learner, maybe could eventually get started on that.
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#407 User is offline   flyweightnate 

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Posted 10 February 2009 - 11:31 PM

Pretty much, easiest way to think of it is this: every shot, the CO2 will expand and contract. Each time it goes from a skinny passage to a fat, it loses velocity and momentum, and turbulence is created due to edge effects. Every time it goes from fat to skinny, it gains velocity, but sometimes is compressed so much that when it expands again, it chills. Overall, it's just better for the gas to go through paths of constant size.

Now imagine for a moment, I design a valve that has a single off-center port of constant diameter the entire length. The cup seal doesn't as much seal around that port as over that port, but would have an o-ring on the stem to prevent leaking. Now, you take that same narrow port, and have a bolt whose porting matches (and sleeve the transfer port in the body, too). Then, you make a nice constant-gradient opening on the bolt face.

Suddenly the gas is moving with much greater momentum, and is getting tossed around a whole lot less. In theory, I'd assume much better efficiency, even with that nasty 180-degree turn Snipers have.
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#408 User is offline   Tora 

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Posted 12 February 2009 - 06:58 AM

For this cocker, can you screw a tank directly into the place where the reg is?
Thanks a lot!

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#409 User is offline   oerllikon 

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Posted 12 February 2009 - 02:48 PM

View PostTora, on Feb 12 2009, 07:58 AM, said:

For this cocker, can you screw a tank directly into the place where the reg is?
Thanks a lot!

Posted Image

Its regulated, so you probably wouldnt be able to. A new valve and springs, and you would be able to
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#410 User is offline   left handed 

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Posted 14 February 2009 - 01:34 PM

Also, depends if the ASA has a little pin to depress the pin on the tank and let air out.
Speedball has nothing to do with how fast you shoot and everything to do with how fast you move. - Crawdaddy (PBF)


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#411 User is offline   oerllikon 

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Posted 15 February 2009 - 03:55 PM

I could take that off your hands if you wanted ^.^
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#412 User is offline   125blackfire 

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Posted 07 March 2009 - 10:20 PM

Hi everyone, I am stoked about my new autococker. I just bought my first autococker off of ebay for $125. It is a WGP 2002 autococker, Its mostly stock but it game with stock trigger, hinge trigger, mask (don't need a third mask but you never know who might need it..) new Asa (I think) its a drop forward Asa, and all American barrel. The color is blue. Not a fan of the blue look allot sexier black or Orange. It should be getting here in 10days... I bet everyone is thinking oh no another autococker newbie. :blink: I don't need help on how to tune it or any maintenance. Just a few questions and to say hey I got my first none low end marker! My first question is I would like to buy seconds paintballs of the internet. Would seconds paintballs roll out of the end of the autocockers barrel? My reason for asking is because I have read that if your barrel isn't the right size the paintballs will roll out I personally don't think so because of the ball detent...* My second question is can I use co2 with this marker I know you can use anti siphoned co2 and HPA I don't have an HPA tank yet I had heard that anti siphoned co2 and hpa are recommended nothing on regular co2. My third and final question is about the performance of the autococker's accuracy I bought this marker because I need something very accurate because of the woods we have our games in and speedball no marker for speedball until this baby. :P Is the autocockers accuracy just as good with co2 then HPA?
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#413 User is offline   flyweightnate 

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Posted 08 March 2009 - 07:56 AM

Buy good paint. It's the single most important factor in your accuracy. I shot Marbs for a tournament yesterday and was blown away... I shoot white box at practice, and it's just a completely different animal.

Buy a barrel kit, or a single barrel in a small size (Lapco Microshot .684, CP Classic .685 are my recommendations, or a JJ Edge Elite kit), which are relatively cheap and make a BIG difference. You NEED to have the paint tight in your barrel, or it will roll right out. The ball detent only prevents double feeds. The 'cocker bolt pushes the ball past the detent into the barrel, where it waits (and sometimes will roll out) before you shoot. Make sure the paint 'sticks', instead of rolling or sliding through your barrel.

CO2 or HPA depends on your regulator. Stock WGP regs, PPS regs, Air America regs, and Bob Long regs can handle CO2. Very few others can.

This post has been edited by flyweightnate: 08 March 2009 - 07:56 AM

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#414 User is offline   125blackfire 

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Posted 15 March 2009 - 06:46 PM

My autococker is leaking from the smallest 3 way chamber, and the cocking rod is stuck inside the marker. Anyidea how to fix this. I took the gun apart to find how to get the cocking rod out and when I put it back in the 3 way chamber was leaking. The cocking rod wont spin I tried using pliers on it but it wont budge.
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#415 User is offline   Side-Swipe 

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Posted 16 March 2009 - 01:28 PM

View Post125blackfire, on Mar 15 2009, 08:46 PM, said:

My autococker is leaking from the smallest 3 way chamber, and the cocking rod is stuck inside the marker. Anyidea how to fix this. I took the gun apart to find how to get the cocking rod out and when I put it back in the 3 way chamber was leaking. The cocking rod wont spin I tried using pliers on it but it wont budge.


Possilby loctited, heat the threads up and then try pliers.
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#416 User is offline   125blackfire 

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Posted 16 March 2009 - 06:10 PM

View PostSide-Swipe, on Mar 16 2009, 04:28 PM, said:

View Post125blackfire, on Mar 15 2009, 08:46 PM, said:

My autococker is leaking from the smallest 3 way chamber, and the cocking rod is stuck inside the marker. Anyidea how to fix this. I took the gun apart to find how to get the cocking rod out and when I put it back in the 3 way chamber was leaking. The cocking rod wont spin I tried using pliers on it but it wont budge.


Possilby loctited, heat the threads up and then try pliers.



I know it is not locktited because I unscrewed the cocking rod out a couple times then the final time I screwed it back in it wouldn't come out again.
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#417 User is offline   Side-Swipe 

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Posted 17 March 2009 - 11:21 PM

View Post125blackfire, on Mar 16 2009, 08:10 PM, said:

View PostSide-Swipe, on Mar 16 2009, 04:28 PM, said:

View Post125blackfire, on Mar 15 2009, 08:46 PM, said:

My autococker is leaking from the smallest 3 way chamber, and the cocking rod is stuck inside the marker. Anyidea how to fix this. I took the gun apart to find how to get the cocking rod out and when I put it back in the 3 way chamber was leaking. The cocking rod wont spin I tried using pliers on it but it wont budge.


Possilby loctited, heat the threads up and then try pliers.



I know it is not locktited because I unscrewed the cocking rod out a couple times then the final time I screwed it back in it wouldn't come out again.


How is that relevant in the autococker section? You probably skipped a thread or something, how are people in the autococker section supposed to know how to fix that? That is not something contained in the general knowledge of autococker cultists. You need to talk to a machinist about that, because I love how you omitted the part that you actually broke it and now you are asking for help. What am I supposed to tell you, go rent the Jaws Of Life!
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#418 User is offline   slinkyaroo 

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Posted 18 March 2009 - 06:29 AM

Sounds like the 3way isn't timed. The linkage has to be set.



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#419 User is offline   125blackfire 

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Posted 18 March 2009 - 02:08 PM

I put the cocking rod into a vice and twisted the marker. It worked and It unscrewed out. The marker isn't tuned up so that might be why the 3 way is leaking. But can someone explain why the cocking rod got stuck?

EDIT) Didn't feel like double posting. I'm getting the hang of tuning the marker, and it soon will be second nature. The smallest of the three way the one that is connected to the actuator is leaking when I put the co2 tank in. I don't understand. Is it suppose to? When I fire, it shoots and then recocks with some gas leaking during the middle of the process. All the leaking is coming out of the tip of the three way.

Also I have very newbish questions. Very embarrassing questions. How do I uncock the marker when the gas is in it? I tried uncocking it the same way you would with a slandered beaver tail marker (for example spyder xtra) but it just pinched me (I do not feel like hurting my fingures any more). The gas prevents it. It worries me if I am going to take it to the Field. My final question is how do I change the velocity? Sorry for the annoying questions and the questions that are well stupid.

This post has been edited by 125blackfire: 19 March 2009 - 07:20 PM

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#420 User is offline   Side-Swipe 

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Posted 19 March 2009 - 07:15 PM

View Post125blackfire, on Mar 18 2009, 04:08 PM, said:

I put the cocking rod into a vice and twisted the marker. It worked and It unscrewed out. The marker isn't tuned up so that might be why the 3 way is leaking. But can someone explain why the cocking rod got stuck?


I dont understand why ur asking us why the cocking rod got stuck. Because u skipped a thread or over tightened it, it doesnt take any special knowledge to know why.
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