Special Ops Paintball: Paintball Howitzer - Special Ops Paintball

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Paintball Howitzer no, not a Bazooka! Rate Topic: -----

#1 User is offline   Lyian 

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Posted 24 June 2009 - 11:34 AM

Hey all, been a while!

Ive been getting an itch to build one of these things, and i think this summer im going to, cause i have the time and im bored lol. I need to find instructors and materials needed to make one. Anyone got any links/info on this?

Also ,what makes good shells? I know ive seen how to make the paint for like claymores and such so i think that can work for the payload, but im trying to think of what a good shell would be that would be light enough to fly a fair distance being shot form a low pressure release (60-80 psi) but still explode on impact. My first thought is plastic bottles, but i dont think they would explode on impact, and theirs no real way for me to get consistently shaped bottles for the task.

Also, what would i need to make my own tank for it? I saw a video of a guy who just hooked up an air compressor with as reserve tank, but i don't want to bother with having to plug anything in, so i was thinking maybe just putting like a manual pump on it (this would also give it a more realistic artillery load time)

Thoughts?

This post has been edited by Lyian: 24 June 2009 - 12:19 PM

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#2 User is offline   Bobbjoe 

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Posted 24 June 2009 - 06:35 PM

Most people don't want to get hit by a plastic bottle going 80 mph...

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#3 User is offline   Erndogg 

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Posted 24 June 2009 - 06:56 PM

The idea of using a bottle as an ammo sounds unsafe to me.

Personally I would think your best bet is get a LAW and put it on a cart or something that LOOKS like a howitzer cannon, and keep it to just shooting at tanks and bunkers (solid objects).
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Posted 24 June 2009 - 07:21 PM

DO NOT SHOOT ANYTHING OTHER THAN PAINTBALLS AND NERF ROUNDS!


the only thing that should be shot out of an air cannon is paintballs and Nerf rockets.......please please please...dont shoot plastic bottles....


.....that being said, be sure to check with your field on their stance on launchers and what type of ammo can be used.....

....and be sure you know what you are doing when building this, check pressure ratings...

.if you have any questions, make sure to ask.....we have had a number of home made launcher explode....IT IS DANGEROUS AND YOU COULD DIE.......
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#5 User is offline   Lyian 

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Posted 24 June 2009 - 08:43 PM

View PostCesar, on Jun 24 2009, 09:21 PM, said:

DO NOT SHOOT ANYTHING OTHER THAN PAINTBALLS AND NERF ROUNDS!


the only thing that should be shot out of an air cannon is paintballs and Nerf rockets.......please please please...dont shoot plastic bottles....


.....that being said, be sure to check with your field on their stance on launchers and what type of ammo can be used.....

....and be sure you know what you are doing when building this, check pressure ratings...

.if you have any questions, make sure to ask.....we have had a number of home made launcher explode....IT IS DANGEROUS AND YOU COULD DIE.......



Thats what im doing.. asking :dodgy:

As far as the bottle , yea my roommate pointed that out to me this afternoon and i just replyed back with an... "oh...yea.. didn't think about that part" so yea.. bottles are defently out. Sides they dont explode on impact anyway.. too strong.

But their has to be a safe way to deliver alot of paint down field like that in one blob explotion.. *ponders*

Reguardless, even if its not being fired toward anything, shooting it a dummy targets would still be fun. But still begs the question as to what round would work.


As far as actually building the cannon, yes, any info you guys have on pressures, how to make the chambers properly ect.. would be useful.

My general, in my head idea at the moment so far, is to use Metal (steel?) piping if i can get my hands on some. Id rather not use PVC cause i would need to make pressure tank that could hold 80-100 psi and i dont think PVC could do that. Plus i would need this to be pretty mobile as far as general location (ie, putting it in a car) and again, dont think PVC would hold up moving it that much. Plus over time i think it will warp.

Not sure how to make the bolt loading mechanism either to where it wouldn't leak when closed.

Any more thoughts you guys have are welcome.
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Posted 24 June 2009 - 09:03 PM

PVC is safe depending on the pressures you use.......safe working pressure is printed on the pipe.

steel pipe is usually much safer though.....

a lot of fields wont allow you to shoot a bunch of paintball out of it, as most fields have a one pull one ball....some fields allow you to shoot Nerf rounds....depending on the field.....these can take out a 10' radius.....


a simple launcher is nothing more than a barrel, pressure chamber, and a ball valve.......however, you can get creative and come up with some pretty exotic designs..
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#7 User is offline   Dib 

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Posted 25 June 2009 - 09:27 PM

I've been on both sides of the homemade "artillery" piece at the Warpaint field. BONUSROUND owns it. It adds a bit of fun to some of the longball days. His works pretty good. It shoots a bunch of paintballs about 200 yds., I guess, with the aid of a wad(rolled up towel). Not the most devastating thing, but fun none the less. His design is safe with the understanding that he won't shotgun people with it. If you can get ahold of him he might be able to help you. :P
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Posted 25 June 2009 - 10:00 PM

Quote

But their has to be a safe way to deliver alot of paint down field like that in one blob explotion.. *ponders*


lol, i'm sorry the way this is worded is just funny to me, I can't help but thinking "ummm... a marker might work" but I know what you mean so no worries.

As for that... make a cardboard or paper towel sabot.

As for the howitzer. I have built a mortar style piece to put physics to work, it isn't for paintball and it wasn't for a project it's just for fun. We wouldn't be able to use it for paintball anyway cause it uses a computer and a lot of electronics that we don't want to ruin. But it can basically put a nerf football on top of anything we want it to very easily. Never misses... cause it's computerized kinda. Computer tells us what angle to put it at, we have to position it.

Pressure can be kept at 80 psi with a good valve and you'll get plenty of distance safely. I've never brought it anywhere near the designated safe operating pressure i'm paranoid.

Do not use a ball valve

Is it legal to discuss plans here. I can give you any info you may need but I don't want to get in trouble.

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#9 User is offline   Lyian 

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Posted 25 June 2009 - 11:52 PM

Few things to understand..

-First, Their are not local fields where i play. None that *i* would concider local enough to drive to on a regular basis anyway, so im not worried about field restrictions as of yet.
-Second, This absolutely would not be shot directly at anyone. We have our set rules that my friends and I play with and were pretty safe and respectful, so this would be handled and used properly. We arnt 'leet' and don't necessarily play to win, we play to have fun so this cannon would be much more for the coolness factor and 'realism' factor than trying to mark as many people as possible.
-Third, as started, this would be more for a realistic/cool factor. As such, things would be put in place to give it a more real effect.. in this case.. circa WWII. As i wanted to make it clear it would be a "howitzer" style, this would mean, on wheels, Large (large enough to be a 'vehicle' weapon, and not one a person could hold and fire.) and some what cumbersome to move. The pressure chamber would be filled with (if possible) manual pumps (like bike tire pumps), the aiming would be manual (like using wheels with an arrow pointed to a degree line or something crude-ish like that.)

Im sure we would shoot this off at dummy targets far more than during actual playing. But If we did do during play, it would be likely part of an objective. Like one team uses/defends a base with it, the 2nd team has to 'destroy' it or some such (think the Half-Life mod, Day of Defeat here) I would think the manual 'loading' and adjustment would make the howitzer sluggish enough that it would be used more like a real one, and not as a large shot/scatter paintball gun.

Anyway, thats whats in my head at the moment. Dont worry guys, Im not trying to be stupid here and i defiantly don't want to hurt anyone. Tis why im here asking for advice/help on the subject. You've already pointed out several things i wasn't thinking about and im grateful.
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#10 User is offline   vargg 

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Posted 26 June 2009 - 04:46 AM

my buddy uses a mortar at sum games what he uses for ammo is just big water balloons filled with paint . but to launch them intact he had to make sabots. basicly just plastic cups . he can launch them further then we can see sumtimes
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#11 User is offline   Lyian 

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Posted 26 June 2009 - 02:53 PM

haha.. ok.. I would love to make this out of steel/metal, but given the cost of it, and after seeing how thick pvc is, i think the plan now is to make it out of pvc. The guy at the store said PVC would widthstand low pressures but im wondering if i make a pressure chamber how much psi it can take. I plan on putting a gage on it, as well as a Relief Valve, but the relief is set at 115 psi, and im wondering if the pvc will hold that much.im also wondering if a Ball valve can be loosened enough (the handle) to work as the trigger (air release) and if 1" is bigg enough to do the job.

Thoughts?
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Posted 26 June 2009 - 04:21 PM

View PostLyian, on Jun 26 2009, 05:53 PM, said:

haha.. ok.. I would love to make this out of steel/metal, but given the cost of it, and after seeing how thick pvc is, i think the plan now is to make it out of pvc. The guy at the store said PVC would widthstand low pressures but im wondering if i make a pressure chamber how much psi it can take. I plan on putting a gage on it, as well as a Relief Valve, but the relief is set at 115 psi, and im wondering if the pvc will hold that much.im also wondering if a Ball valve can be loosened enough (the handle) to work as the trigger (air release) and if 1" is bigg enough to do the job.

Thoughts?


you can use PVC as a pressure chamber......just be sure to check the pressure rating, It is always printed on the side of the pipe.....if it isnt, dont use that pipe.

that being said, depending on which Schedule pipe you use, the safe working pressure will vary.

Here is a link to a pressure guide for Schedule 40 PVC....this is the most common PVC available...but make sure to double check with the pipe you buy as it may be different.

that being said, you typically shouldnt exceed 100 PSI when working with PVC.


when using PVC as a pressure chamber, be sure to prime and glue it with PVC cement and allow a full 24 hours for it to cure.

as for a ball valve, ive found that a 3/4 inch ball valve works just fine, so a 1 inch should give you no trouble....

now the ball valve will work just fine, but it wont be a "trigger" in the traditional sense, as you wont be able to open it with one finger, but a simple design will allow you to use a ball valve with no problem.....just make sure to check the operating pressure of the ball valve before you use it, i would suggest buying a brass ball valve over a PVC ball valve as it will be more durable and be easier to open.....


....any other questions feel free to ask.

This post has been edited by Cesar: 26 June 2009 - 04:24 PM

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#13 User is offline   Lyian 

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Posted 26 June 2009 - 05:21 PM

View PostCesar, on Jun 26 2009, 06:21 PM, said:

View PostLyian, on Jun 26 2009, 05:53 PM, said:

haha.. ok.. I would love to make this out of steel/metal, but given the cost of it, and after seeing how thick pvc is, i think the plan now is to make it out of pvc. The guy at the store said PVC would widthstand low pressures but im wondering if i make a pressure chamber how much psi it can take. I plan on putting a gage on it, as well as a Relief Valve, but the relief is set at 115 psi, and im wondering if the pvc will hold that much.im also wondering if a Ball valve can be loosened enough (the handle) to work as the trigger (air release) and if 1" is bigg enough to do the job.

Thoughts?


you can use PVC as a pressure chamber......just be sure to check the pressure rating, It is always printed on the side of the pipe.....if it isnt, dont use that pipe.

that being said, depending on which Schedule pipe you use, the safe working pressure will vary.

Here is a link to a pressure guide for Schedule 40 PVC....this is the most common PVC available...but make sure to double check with the pipe you buy as it may be different.

that being said, you typically shouldnt exceed 100 PSI when working with PVC.


when using PVC as a pressure chamber, be sure to prime and glue it with PVC cement and allow a full 24 hours for it to cure.

as for a ball valve, ive found that a 3/4 inch ball valve works just fine, so a 1 inch should give you no trouble....

now the ball valve will work just fine, but it wont be a "trigger" in the traditional sense, as you wont be able to open it with one finger, but a simple design will allow you to use a ball valve with no problem.....just make sure to check the operating pressure of the ball valve before you use it, i would suggest buying a brass ball valve over a PVC ball valve as it will be more durable and be easier to open.....


....any other questions feel free to ask.


A Brass one is actually the one i was looking at.. I had that one in mind when i first thought about this.. like the kind you see on water heaters (only bigger of course hehe) I didnt like how the handles on the PVC ones were, the brass one i can grip with my full hand and just yank to open it, so thats what i wanted. It will likely be the only brass part on the thing lol

The PVC i was looking at @ Lowes said on it "not for pressure use" which immediately worried me.. The guy working their, who im not sure knows much or not, said that it ment not for high pressure, but that they could take the low (ie 100 psi) pressure i was planning to use it for. He also stated that hes had many people come their to make potato guns and such using that material, but i would feel alot better if it had a pressure rating on it.

I don't expect to be going over 100 psi either. from most of the videos ive seen, most shoot well between 60 and 80 psi, but id like it to width stand more (for obvious reasons) I ideally love for it to hold 150-200 psi. As i said im going to put a relief valve on it, and the only one ive found so far is set for 115, and id rather blow the relief valve before the entire thing (its the purpose of the thing)

I also plan to put a gage on it, which i think the one i saw was rated to 150 psi

Ill head back to the hardware store and look more closely at the pipes now that i know what to look for.

Anyone have ideas on how large the pressure tank should be? (size wise?)
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Posted 26 June 2009 - 05:51 PM

View PostLyian, on Jun 26 2009, 08:21 PM, said:

A Brass one is actually the one i was looking at.. I had that one in mind when i first thought about this.. like the kind you see on water heaters (only bigger of course hehe) I didnt like how the handles on the PVC ones were, the brass one i can grip with my full hand and just yank to open it, so thats what i wanted. It will likely be the only brass part on the thing lol

The PVC i was looking at @ Lowes said on it "not for pressure use" which immediately worried me.. The guy working their, who im not sure knows much or not, said that it ment not for high pressure, but that they could take the low (ie 100 psi) pressure i was planning to use it for. He also stated that hes had many people come their to make potato guns and such using that material, but i would feel alot better if it had a pressure rating on it.

as i said, if it doesnt have a pressure rating, DONT USE IT.

i dont care what the guy at Lowes may have told you, it is not rated for pressure applications so dont use it...period.


I don't expect to be going over 100 psi either. from most of the videos ive seen, most shoot well between 60 and 80 psi, but id like it to width stand more (for obvious reasons) I ideally love for it to hold 150-200 psi. As i said im going to put a relief valve on it, and the only one ive found so far is set for 115, and id rather blow the relief valve before the entire thing (its the purpose of the thing)

and like i said, try not to exceed 100PSI, because even though the pipe may be pressure rated, a lot of fittings are not.....Try to find schedule 40 PVC pieces if you can.

a pressure relief valve is an excellent idea.....just remember, if you cut and thread a hole in the side of PVC, its pressure rating is cut in half......

if you plan on running this off of a CO2 or HPA tank, you MUST use a regulator to bring down the pressure first.

I also plan to put a gage on it, which i think the one i saw was rated to 150 psi


Ill head back to the hardware store and look more closely at the pipes now that i know what to look for.

Anyone have ideas on how large the pressure tank should be? (size wise?)

that is really going to depend on your overall design, if you post a design, i can help you fine tune it to achieve optimal performance.

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#15 User is offline   Lyian 

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Posted 26 June 2009 - 06:39 PM

Design isnt anything fancy, pretty much looks, at least at the core, like any other air cannon you find on the web. Pressure tank with tube going to the valve, then tube to the barrel. The barrel im thinking will be somewhere in the area of 5' long or so, with the possibility of switching out the barrels for a shorter one if needed (say 2-3'?) Outside of that i havent designed anything, tho i do plan to have it sit on legs (like artillery legs)

As far as the shape, id like to have it single width, but i can do a double width if needed.. kinda why i need to know the pressure tank size. if i can get away with a small tank, ill just put it straight out the back, if i need a larger one, ill have to loop it around and have it follow the barrel.

As far as threading holes, would it make a difference where i put it? like i know the Caps are thicker, what if i put the valve/gage on the cap/end part and not just on the wall of the tank?
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